Bahia de Caraquez, Ecuador
After returning from a 2-month trip to the states, John was busy working on boat projects so Linda, and Teri from the sailboat ISHI, decided to explore Ecuador south of Guayaquil. The ladies were determined to keep within a budget of $25 per day and were able to do so without difficulty. Travel was by bus, which is very inexpensive in Ecuador. Some of the highlights of their trip are as follows:
SALINAS, a small village at 11,600 feet: - The walking tour started off at the cheese co-op where many kinds of cheese were made from milk brought in by large milk cans on the backs of donkeys. A man from Switzerland visited this little village in the 70’s and felt he could help the people with Swiss techniques and machinery and did so. At the chocolate co-op, we sampled some of the white chocolate and macadamia nut candy being made there. The macadamia nuts are grown here in Ecuador, as are the cacao beans for the chocolate.
The next stop was the soccer ball factory. The “jefe” was a woman who owns this private company, which is not part of the co-op system. Here we saw a young woman winding and winding six cones of thread on to an inflated rubber ball. Many piles of colored hexagonal leather patches were on the other side of the room, a pot of glue was brewing over a fire, and some balls in iron forms were cooking in the oven. They were proud of the fact that all the makings for the balls come from Ecuador. We were shown a box of the finished product, soccer balls marked “made in Salinas”, which they hope make it to the next Olympics.
Next, we walked up the hill to the wool factory, stopping along the way to take pictures of a saddled llama parked out in front of someone’s home. We toured two big buildings full of interesting big whirling machinery, where they wash and spin tons of wool yarn from sheep and alpaca, dye and package it. Next door was the hongo co-op; here, they dry mushrooms picked from under the pine trees in the rainy season and package them for export.
RIOBAMBA: - Train-ride down the Devil’s Nose. First we had to check in our luggage and then find a spot on TOP of the train. Views were spectacular, through beautiful green country, past fields and forests, rivers and streams, and towns where the kids would chase after the train hoping for treats to be thrown down (our contribution was colored pens). We thought the train ride would be scary since the roof is somewhat rounded and the guard rail they have installed to accommodate people riding on top is only two bars, 10 inches high. By far the scariest part, though, is climbing up on to the roof by the narrow, overhanging rung ladder on the side of the train. The train ride is several hours long, following several switchbacks down to the bottom of the Devil’s Nose.
INGAPIRCA Ruins, 10,000 feet: - As we started to walk to the ruins Raphael, a handsome Ecuadorian man, approached us saying, in English, that he was our assigned guide. For an extra fee, he would walk with us about the ruins; but a talk on the mound was free. We opted for “free”. He talked with us for 1½ hour. He told us of the Cañari civilization of the early 1400’s (before the Incas), who started this city. They were a peaceful civilization, farmers and sun worshipers, having erected the sun temple still standing today. The Cañaris built the rounded base, of precise square stonework in greenish square foot blocks. The conquering Incas, who reigned for only 30 years before being replaced by the Spanish in the early 1500’s, rebuilt the top half of the temple.
The dress of the indigenous people that we see today (heavy colorful skirts of velvet with embroidery around the bottom, capes of wool and felt hats), which we think of as “Indian”, is really the dress adopted by the Indians from the Spanish. Each region has its unique pin or button for fastening the cape. We sidetracked Raphael at one point, asking him about the nice American style houses we could see scattered on the hills. We found out that many of these families find a way to send a son or a husband to the US to work and send back money. Many use “Coyotes”, often disreputable characters who promise to smuggle poor Latinos into the U.S. for a large fee. There is a large community of Ecuadorians for example in Queens, New York. Raphael had been in New York for five years, hence his good English. But he didn’t have to use a Coyote as comes from a wealthy family.
After hearing of the ancient civilizations, we also got a glimpse into the modern civilization of this land. Raphael told us he has a 21-day-old son, by the daughter of a servant of his family, 20 years his junior. He has moved out of the family house and set up a house for his new family. He has taken the baby to be seen by his mother and sister, and they approve because the baby has light skin, but he can’t show the baby to his father or he would be disinherited. Raphael informed us that he will never marry the girl; he is going to find his proper wife someday, but he will continue to support the girl and his baby. Some times, it is hard not to be critical of the different cultures of other countries…
PRINCIPAL, 10,500 feet: At the end of the road, at the top of the river valley, we arrived in the very small town of Principal. Guido, our guide, is a Quechua Indian. Spanish is not his native language, so we had a hard time understanding him (Quechua was the official language of the Inca Empire, which ruled much of the Andes region from the mid-1400s until the arrival of Spanish conquistadors in 1532. … From Encarta)
Continuing through the village, we saw some ladies making Panama hats (yes, Panama hats are made in Ecuador!). Not a lot of Tonka Toys around here – one kid was rolling a big hoop with a stick and several kids were running with plastic bags tied to cassette tape.
They had trouble gathering enough horses from around the village for our tour, and it turned out to be a bad idea. The horses were workhorses, not used to being ridden and they weren’t used to each other. Whenever they got to close together they started kicking, making for a wild ride. And the saddles were interesting, made of wood (actually not as uncomfortable as they looked), the stirrups of metal, hung on ropes, and the bridles were rope, with no bit in the mouth.
Linda’s steed was especially unruly, spooked and bucked several times at inopportune moments like on a narrow steep trail. At one point, Linda finally had to get off and walk. Susie and daughter Kate rode together on one horse and that was fine until the horse took off running across a meadow and the two of them slid off, fortunately onto soft turf. Kate, at 7, was a real trouper about getting right back on.
In spite of the rough ride, it was a great day of incredible views of mountains, valleys, rivers and vegetation. Guido was always stopping to point out some plant that was used for herbs, medicine or food; picking us wild strawberries and other fruits to eat and leaves to taste. Mid-day we came to Las Dos Encuentras, the merging of two rivers where we parked the horses and climbed to a meadow of grass and wildflowers overlooking the river valley. The view behind was of the top of a dormant volcano, one side of the top caved in. And just when you thought you were a million miles from civilization, you see a woman in a bright red skirt with a purple cape and felt hat leading a couple of cows across the next hill.
After hiking back to the horses, we continued over hill and dale, much of the time on a narrow, rocky, slippery, muddy and precipitous trail. The trail was so narrow at times that our feet were knocked out of the stirrups and sometimes, the trail was so deep you couldn’t see over the top. We were glad for the rubber boots we rented for 60 cents. Many times the horses slid and tripped on the wet rocks. This ancient trail was the path the Cañari people used before the Incas arrived. We each paid $8.50 for the horse, and $2.50 for the guides for the day. An unforgettable experience! (For the unabridged version, email Linda and she will send it to you.)
Upon returning to Bahia, John mentioned to Linda that Joe on MUSIC, a single-handed sailor, was leaving for the Galapagos Islands in a few days and what did she think about them crewing for Joe? SURE!! So, 3 days later on the 7 a.m. high tide, we were heading out from Bahia towards the Galapagos Islands, some 600 miles off shore. It was good sailing close to the rhumb line until mid afternoon when the wind piped up to 25 knots apparent with 5-6 foot seas making it a bit uncomfortable and hard to sleep that night. Watches were easy with 4 hrs on and 8 hrs off and there was plenty of entertainment by pilot whales swimming close to the boat. The water temperature dropped the further from shore we got as the Humboldt Current kicked in. This stream of cold water sweeps up the Chilean and Peruvian coasts from Antarctica and the night watches were much cooler as a result. Not at all tropical! MUSIC is a very comfortable Beneteau 40CC and sails pretty well.
Six days and one large Dorado (or Mahi-Mahi, a great eating fish) later, we arrived at Isla San Cristóbal, Galapagos. It was early morning and, after anchoring in Wreck Bay, we checked in with the Port Captain and our agent, who had our permit for visiting 5 islands ready. We spent a few days on Isla San Cristóbal visiting the Galapagos Tortoise reserve, a beach where we had our first sighting of Marine Iguanas, a visitors center explaining some of the history of the Galapagos and a ancient volcano crater that contains a lake which is the only fresh water in the Galapagos. There were lots of Sea Lions in the anchorage and on the beach. They don’t seem to mind people being within a few feet of them even if they have pups. The bulls are not as fond of people, however, and stay at a distance.
A bit of history now! The Galapagos were discovered accidentally in 1535, when the then Bishop of Panama, Tomás de Belanga drifted off course (over 500 miles!) After many decades as a haven for pirates, followed by whaling ships, the islands were claimed by Ecuador in 1832 and were made a national park in 1957, when the last of the penal colonies were closed.
We next sailed to Isla Santa Cruz, which is a day’s sail away. After checking in with the Port Captain, we were free to roam Puerto Ayora, a very crowded harbor where the tour boats pick up their people. This bustling town with its’ tourist shops wasn’t what we had in mind at all, but we wanted to visit the Darwin Center. This was indeed well worth the stay in that bay, which has no protection from the southerly swell. We were able to spot a few of the different kinds of Darwin finches and lots of Galapagos tortoises as well as Iguanas both land and marine. The tour of the lava tube, which has a diameter of about 50 feet, for about ½ mile was fascinating and we could only slightly
fathom what it must have been like when lava actually flowed through it. Hiking many miles on the island, we saw wonderful white sand beaches where it is easy to spot the dark Marine Iguanas as compared to their normal habitat on the black lava rocks. A large lagoon was a popular place to snorkel or just wade. It is a popular hangout for a number of white tipped reef sharks.The sail to Isla Isabela was a long day of about 70 miles. Just before entering the harbor, Puerto Villamil, we hooked a nice yellow-fin tuna, which fed us several meals. We can’t say enough about this most incredible place! The anchorage is beautiful, with few boats anchored in its’ very protected bay (it was the off season and we have been told that in high season, there may be as many as 50 boats anchored here-can’t imagine how they all fit in!). The sea and animal life was incredible. The blue-footed boobies were in profusion. Sea lions were unwelcome visitors on the boat (John got up one night when it started to rain to get his shoes and there was a sea lion asleep in the cockpit! We aren’t sure who was more surprised, the sea lion or John!). Penguins swam around the boat frequently and make a cry back and forth to each other. The penguins in the Galapagos are about 18 inches tall and it was a surprise to find them so close to the Equator! Their presence is the result of the Humboldt Current; at the time we were there, their feathers were molting (yes feathers, not fur). The iguanas were also shedding their leathery skins.
Several times we took an incredible hike around the black lava reef that protects the bay; it was like being on the moon! The lava is very rough, similar to the a’a lava found in Hawaii, but the Park Service has made a nice trail through the lava and this makes it easy. There are marine iguanas all over. In several areas it looked like the lava was moving, but it turned out to be a large group of iguanas! A little further down the trail is a fissure in the lava. It is open on two sides and within that fissure; there are usually about 15 white-tipped reef sharks. The trail is just feet above them and you can look down and observe them (There was a sign posted suggesting no swimming). Further on along the trail, was a sea lion pup and it looked like the babysitter was a marine iguana as they were resting close to each other. Don’t know where the pup’s mom was. In another cove, there was a sea lion colony with the “head honcho” protecting his harem. On one occasion, another bull tried to enter his cove and was very loudly and aggressively told to leave. Another time, Linda and Wynona, another cruiser lady, were snorkeling in the bay with a “teen aged” sea lion having a great time when the bull came over and rushed them. It is very hard to run in water with fins on! Poor Wynona almost had a heart attack as she was closest to the bull and couldn’t move fast enough. But, he backed off when he saw that they were trying to get out of his territory.
The blue-footed boobies are fun to watch. They collect in a great flock of about two hundred, and start circling. Through some signal we couldn’t detect, they will all dive into the water at the same time. They dive bomb, splash, pop-up and take off flying to start the process again. We assume they all got at least one fish on each dive, as they look well fed.
Another hike we took went through town and along the beach to a trail through the lava flow to a turtle hatchery. There were several different types of Galapagos Tortoise in pens where they were being fed something that looked like large leeks. They really seemed to like it and we spent quite a while looking at the different types. Two large males got into a little disagreement and one snapped at the other clamping down on the leathery skin of his leg. We also noticed at other Tortoise reserves that they hiss when you get to close to them and pull back into their shell. Some of these strange creatures live to be 170 years old, and weigh up to 600 pounds. The amazing thing is that there are any tortoises left on the islands after the depredations of pirates and whaling ships in previous centuries. Darwin reported that one ship left with 700 live tortoises in its h
old (they live for a year without food – the tortoises, that is) and another ship captured 200 in one day! The efforts of the Darwin Center, and other tortoise reserves, to restore the tortoise population are commendable. We were told that the incubation temperature of the eggs determines the gender of the tortoise. Above 30 degrees centigrade, the hatchlings will be female, which greatly assists the re-population efforts.One day we took a tour by truck, horseback and hiking up to a volcano. Along the way, we were able to feel the different climate changes and see the difference from the dry vegetation and cactus at sea level to the lush, green vegetation of the rain forest in the mountains. Walking on the volcano was very interesting and in some places quite difficult because of the loose lava. We saw “hot spots” where steam was vented and it felt like putting
your hand in an oven. There were several lava tubes and even a lava fall (looked like a waterfall turned to stone). Our guide told us the red color was ancient lava flow and the black new lava. This volcano last erupted in 2001. There were sinkholes with lush green plants at the bottom. The lava left wonderful formations some looking like chocolate chips in chocolate syrup and others looked like pulled taffy. Depending on the minerals, the colors varied from yellow, orange, blue and green, to gray, maroon, and black. Our guide explained some of the different plants and birds. The vermillion flycatcher was a showstopper with his brilliant red body and black wings.Another day we rented kayaks and paddled out past the reef with a guide. We were rewarded with a close up of 2 sea turtles mating (this takes about 3 hours!) and two marine iguanas squaring off, butting their heads together with their spines and cheeks flared to look bigger, clawing and hissing and trying to bite each other. Winner gets the females.
Our guide talked us into another trip that took about 1 hour by fast-running panga down the
coast to some incredible lava formations. It was an “e” ticket ride through the surf to get to the protected waters where we saw numerous “bridges” which were originally lava tubes. We snorkeled this interesting place but after about 40 minutes were forced to get out as the water was quite cold. We saw turtles and lots of fish in this clear water but no sharks. This was surprising as that is where they usually hang out. After we ate our lunch, we walked out on a lava field and saw where we had come in through the surf. It was quite unnerving, as we knew we were going to have to go out through these breaking waves. Our driver started both 70 horsepower engines, had them going full bore and timed the waves perfectly. It was a wild ride back to the boat and we considered it another exceptional day in the Galapagos.Our 30 days allotted at the islands came to a close all too quickly. Our last meal ashore was lobster soup, fresh guava juice, fried fish medallions, rice, a bean and potato salad and a peach half for dessert-all for $2.50 U.S.! During our last sunset at Isla Isabela, we were privileged to have a flock of 7 flamingos fly by the boat, circle and head back to their lagoon. They, like parrots and macaws, do a lot of “talking” when they fly. It was a memorable sight and a fitting farewell to the Galapagos.
We decided to sail with Joe to Panama, and then to fly back to Ecuador, for two reasons: 1. Joe would not have to sail the 900 miles alone and 2. We stood a better chance of getting another 90-day visa for Ecuador flying in from another country. Little did we realize what would happen! We sailed all day to Isla Baltra, where the main airport is located. This little island was home to the U.S. military back in 1942, after the Pearl Harbor attack, when an airstrip and base was set up to protect the Panama Canal. The base is now closed but the scars remain. This airport is where the bulk of the 90,000 (!)tourists fly in each year to visit the Galapagos.
After riding a bus from the main harbor of Puerto Seymour to the airport, we found that we could not check out of the country as we had planned. It seemed the officials at the airport did not have the correct stamp! (they are big on stamps in Latin America.) So, from the airport we took a truck-taxi,
a water-taxi, and a regular taxi across the island of Santa Cruz, to Puerto Ayora, where the “correct” stamp for checking out of the country was affixed to our passports. Along the way, we were able to pick up more fresh fruits and vegetables and visit two enormous sinkholes. One was 900 meters diameter by 400 meters deep and the other was 1000 meter diameter and 200 feet deep with vertical walls-very impressive.Anchor was raised at daybreak on Wednesday, Nov. 24 and we set sail for Panama. As the Galapagos archipelago faded behind us, we felt ambivalent about the problems and opportunities facing this unique part of the world. An intense struggle is being waged between the conflicting interests and demands of a variety of groups. Ranged against each other are the scientists and conservation people, who want the islands protected at all cost from the ravages of humans and non-ende
mic animals and plants, the burgeoning tourist industry, with its demands for “big-city” amenities amongst the pristine surroundings, the industrial fishing fleets from the mainland and Asia, with their insatiable greed for the rich sea-food that thrives around the islands, the local and foreign fishermen, who have not hesitated in using violent tactics to assert their “right” to ravage the local waters of sea-cucumbers (not for food, but for “aphrodisiacs” for the Chinese market) and sharks, (slaughtered so that Japanese diners may feast on shark-fin soup) and, finally, the ever-increasing number of “settlers” from the mainland, arriving to cash in on the lucrative tourist business. With the Ecuadorian economy in decline, the demand for more “clean” tourist dollars is almost irresistible and the pressure for more tourist-friendly development is likely to continue. Fortunately, many international conservation groups are providing funds and maintaining close watch on the islands, so there is hope for the future of these crown jewels. We consider ourselves most fortunate in seeing at least one island – Isabela – that remains relatively unspoilt. As a local guide put it, “we had to sacrifice one island (Santa Cruz) to save this one.”
As we sailed towards Panama in brisk trade winds, with 1.5 knots of current against us, we enjoyed a Thanksgiving dinner of turkey spam, baked potatoes and broccoli with baked apples for dessert. It was the best the chef could do under the circumstances turkeys are around; however, they are alive and none of us were up to doing the nasty deed).
Our trip went well with the southeast trades even though we still had the adverse current slowing us down. As we worked our way north, however, we ran into a line of squalls, which marked a shift to stronger head-winds - and still that adverse current. With 25 to 30 knot head winds and rough, confused seas, we were within 30 miles of the Colombian coast, an area we wanted to avoid but were not able to head up any closer to the wind and Panama. During a pitch-black, squally night, with a torn jib and a malfunctioning autopilot, the spinnaker pole bracket broke and the mast-stored spinnaker pole started flailing around the foredeck. On top of all this, there were two blips on the radar ahead of us, keeping pace. One’s imagination tends to work overtime when in this kind of situation. Anyway, the winds abated, daylight came, and the 2 boats lying in wait turned out to be shrimpers. Just then, Linda spotted a float on the port side and then one on the starboard side-not good. Quickly the engine was put in neutral just in time as the long-line went under the winged keel of the Beneteau, past the folding prop and caught on the rudder, bringing us to an abrupt stop. Fortunately, Joe was able to hook the line, Linda ascertained it was only around the rudder and John got the knife to cut the line. Soon we were on our way again, slowly. With fuel running low, the wind gods finally smiled upon us, the wind and waves calmed somewhat, and we finally arrived at Espiritu Santo in the Pearl Islands after 10 1/2 days at sea. After two days rest, we headed into Panama City to complete the voyage.
After spending a week in Panama City visiting with friends, we said farewell to friend Joe and flew back to Ecuador where we were successful in getting another three-month visa. The Christmas Season in Bahia is busy and there is actually traffic on the streets. Some nights the music goes most of the night but we are enjoying this wonderful place and look forward to more exploration.
A sentence we read in a book and really like: “Doing nothing is really hard because you never know when you are done.” We hope the New Year affords you the opportunity to do this. John and Linda, HAWKEYE
