At the close of our last update, we were in the lagoon at Kauehi Atoll in the Tuamotus awaiting two springs for the injector pumps for our Volvo engine. After three weeks of waiting, well we did snorkel several times, beach comb, visit the pearl farm, had a wonderful full moon beach party-BBQ, visited the church and small village grocery store for fresh food and ICE CREAM while waiting, our parts arrived. John spent several hours studying the engine manual trying to get past the part where it says "Do not attempt to do this-send it back for repair by a qualified mechanic." He devised a tool for putting in the new springs and talked to the Volvo service manager in Seattle several times who was VERY helpful after John explained where he was calling from and what the circumstances were. Finally the big day arrived and John went to shore in the dinghy to get to the tiny airport (one flight a week) to get the parts.
We had originally wanted to be in Papeete for the Bastille Day celebrations which go on from June 30 to Aug 2. We were quickly closing in on July 14 which is the actual Bastille Day. Once the guys got the engine running, we headed out the next morning at 5:30 a.m. just as it was getting daylight. We motor sailed, yes, motor sailed as no wind (and we were so happy to be able to motor),to the atoll of Fakarava. We passed through the north passage on a flooding tide, to the town of Rotoava, anchored, and headed into town for the festivities. That evening we watched participants in a dance competition do the famous Tamure to the rousing applause of the audience. The next day we watched the javelin throwing contest. A coconut it attached to a pole about 25 feet off the ground and the men take turns throwing their home made javelins trying to stick them in the coconut. Another day was a weaving contest where women were shown items such as a basket, hat, mat, and purse. They were timed and graded on how tightly woven and appearance. Everyone had a great time in all the competitions with lots of laughter and cheering. Each evening there were more dance competitions or singing competitions and we really enjoyed it. We had some great meals ashore and were able to shop for fresh food in the two grocery stores in the village.
After the festivities wound down, our thoughts were focusing on the south pass of the atoll. The lagoon in Fakarava atoll is 30 miles long and 10 miles wide. It was a strange feeling of sailing on this placid lagoon hearing the ocean waves crashing on the coral fringe of the atoll.
THE SOUTH PASS. We have found paradise and we don't want to leave!!! This is supposed to be one of the best dive sites in the world. We haven't seen most of the dive sites in the world but have seen quite a few and we LOVE this place. Our first day here we did a drift snorkel. We could see the bottom at 60 feet plus through the brilliant blue water.
The trick is to take the dinghy out the pass during the tidal flood and float back in holding on to the dinghy. The center of the channel is sand where the grey sharks congregate-lots of them. Up the side of the channel is a carpet of different kinds of coral and teaming with all different fish from open water tuna to tiny brilliant colored reef fish. There were lots of white tipped and black tipped sharks that are curious and check us out and then swim off. The second day we did a drift tank dive. Even 9 year old Jamie. It was his 4th dive of his diving career and it will be tough to beat that dive. Sharks much bigger than him were in abundance. So many we couldn't count them. 
There is also a very large Napoleon Parrot fish that lives in the pass and frequents the small resort located right on the pass. The restaurant workers throw food scraps into the water and "Napoleon" is always looking for a handout. He doesn't do much fast swimming to catch his own food and likes to hang out with the people in the water. They also "feed" the black tips who swim around the restaurant which is built over the water and we could sit for hours watching the underwater show from a table overlooking the crystal clear water. Anyone looking for a great dive vacation in a quiet, away from it all place, check out this resorts website at www.tetamanuvillage.pf. Great food and wonderful people and of course the diving and snorkeling. We were supposed to leave today for Papeete and had a "goodbye" dinner at the 
resort last night. They invited all 7 of us back for a free pancake breakfast this morning 
and as the weather isn't quite perfect today, we have decided to stay a few more days... Today's drift dive is scheduled for 1 p.m. You can bet we will be there! We did the pass twice yesterday and were tempted to do it a third time as it is so wonderful.Friends and relatives ask what our plans are-we may never leave this paradise!! Linda & John s/v HAWKEYE
