tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9198231684082278382024-02-19T16:04:28.996+12:00HAWKEYE HAPPENINGSJohn and Linda are sailing in the Pacific. Follow our path and read our updates.About John and Lindahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09804781596879702975noreply@blogger.comBlogger30125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-919823168408227838.post-83816693382736470282009-12-02T10:39:00.007+12:002009-12-02T11:12:50.978+12:00Dive At the Pass<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-svwSUmJ2iVJ3gAeNBVOySM9E8LoQwB76VLo7zCsMXsfpvGZdXdrpLoGSKA8IkaD6G7t4rdfFmowTo0aYlcBiqw4kgtJ3prwru7zGZ4K2jyGeJialHo22SWox9p_dZUPWTKTSoa9kVrI/s1600/PB200047+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEht3rQ0Cu__YmIXh9f2VgEIpO74fDMqyBvZqXXpLNqY5HFmtdKJIWGdekbtoIrCe1kBpPRvNNG74gMW6iGZ9ARfjLy7v8_KESz6oSy0pK69ttpwA3yMXfN73xGB20KZRNprtLhjBCQ5Dz8/s1600/PB200047+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"></a><br />Dive at the Pass<br />The day after riding on the sailing canoes, there was a group of cruisers heading out for a dive at the pass. Linda asked if she could join the group and within a few minutes, she and her dive equipment were onboard SAUVAGE, a boat built in Brazil by a French couple. The boat is used for chartering all over the world. They are known especially for their charters in Alaska and around Cape Horn.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBVS9e9gOGgQv95uBZZ0ZsugTwWf0IvZEwGaAwrEZUT05BkmbGN68dMTAtz6n1VXFR-xu-VMUM47DN13JNG2g3wm3mKJvKtQdJyhVQtlOMihV_lA4epL2yTpUaHJx05xIYszzXrZuF8b0/s1600/Sauvage-1+%5B320x200%5D.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 194px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBVS9e9gOGgQv95uBZZ0ZsugTwWf0IvZEwGaAwrEZUT05BkmbGN68dMTAtz6n1VXFR-xu-VMUM47DN13JNG2g3wm3mKJvKtQdJyhVQtlOMihV_lA4epL2yTpUaHJx05xIYszzXrZuF8b0/s320/Sauvage-1+%5B320x200%5D.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5410404335621354786" border="0" /></a>There were six of us diving and the plan was to anchor inside the pass behind a small island and take the dinghy through the pass at low tide and ride the incoming tide. It all worked out as planned and was a wonderful dive.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtxg0r3OO6L-9R3jyKNsZTMWBoB6bwHYnZa_MuuRe2tkNjtioXLfLUa9l2hEaaOlt0QJntNSznbfEr1ifzF8sWT5UsrasNm7yxVB4ZXedMGugL80vCyZ_GvmxbcHqi4JQs1Nj1OhEZNP8/s1600/PB200001+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtxg0r3OO6L-9R3jyKNsZTMWBoB6bwHYnZa_MuuRe2tkNjtioXLfLUa9l2hEaaOlt0QJntNSznbfEr1ifzF8sWT5UsrasNm7yxVB4ZXedMGugL80vCyZ_GvmxbcHqi4JQs1Nj1OhEZNP8/s320/PB200001+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5410402619782228834" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAjmL-wP53q04LKOFs-87sQX4cHy_mftcGUHm0ZnM-jcSa7eLsB632Vsb59edx-VHM3-LhcEQ96mNDDWzNoiF2Gj9hwqRDsDKS6jycIPSqcXiV-fy5rB4X8OnnJ1B8rc8OqDAmbThxnrc/s1600/PB200006+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAjmL-wP53q04LKOFs-87sQX4cHy_mftcGUHm0ZnM-jcSa7eLsB632Vsb59edx-VHM3-LhcEQ96mNDDWzNoiF2Gj9hwqRDsDKS6jycIPSqcXiV-fy5rB4X8OnnJ1B8rc8OqDAmbThxnrc/s320/PB200006+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5410402616291212498" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJcNET51BwWB5H4Et_s4Xg8TzSGqvXAN0UMMnrrZjbes66Yi2R-80hI2xyR28cUXsBcpQkPJBobPAUo7W6ZpoQVttpP5fI2zsKIGL7hNAd9nkzcjSZ5_bnzW0mg2k5wpwN3COtVDZ4J6A/s1600/PB200009+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJcNET51BwWB5H4Et_s4Xg8TzSGqvXAN0UMMnrrZjbes66Yi2R-80hI2xyR28cUXsBcpQkPJBobPAUo7W6ZpoQVttpP5fI2zsKIGL7hNAd9nkzcjSZ5_bnzW0mg2k5wpwN3COtVDZ4J6A/s320/PB200009+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5410402611551554930" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimkSVisw2Dz-ZpiYV6n7TDrm3i13EaPbulBI1y60kKhLl5R7lOQ__vleo9XeV2dp8B6U4bM5H8vmlES5rqf0P5PvoeJsrZ-fUpmXtRMdJrPWLG0xZK2SOixx4VVkf-ofWb6pc0k3bWT_0/s1600/PB200014+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimkSVisw2Dz-ZpiYV6n7TDrm3i13EaPbulBI1y60kKhLl5R7lOQ__vleo9XeV2dp8B6U4bM5H8vmlES5rqf0P5PvoeJsrZ-fUpmXtRMdJrPWLG0xZK2SOixx4VVkf-ofWb6pc0k3bWT_0/s320/PB200014+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5410402231108101986" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiy19l4B5lruV0aW-wohXFzPhDy9vl1Zo9uTMqjqtVIYA2vrVWjQqvLiy5sDxbYpLUXfz5ZuSXRQo2ZVGrrxaZJwlkswtzc3frrLPO6xm9muVe85ocnSKz2pyHwiqs4Twem69iJVmIyo4/s1600/PB200022+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiy19l4B5lruV0aW-wohXFzPhDy9vl1Zo9uTMqjqtVIYA2vrVWjQqvLiy5sDxbYpLUXfz5ZuSXRQo2ZVGrrxaZJwlkswtzc3frrLPO6xm9muVe85ocnSKz2pyHwiqs4Twem69iJVmIyo4/s320/PB200022+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5410402225351222370" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgvbRUZFJmYH4D6SsHr32h0UbDW6gbe-s0MMzRiGFJYXg8qrXjRb_DJw-FFc-iX0wGaf4Ky-oAiyLyRWqdo3oya_B1rTXKRUhFyvMUxPQrA7zYDO_Ckh4aBckZmxBxF3n85zxxs6idjGQ/s1600/PB200025+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgvbRUZFJmYH4D6SsHr32h0UbDW6gbe-s0MMzRiGFJYXg8qrXjRb_DJw-FFc-iX0wGaf4Ky-oAiyLyRWqdo3oya_B1rTXKRUhFyvMUxPQrA7zYDO_Ckh4aBckZmxBxF3n85zxxs6idjGQ/s320/PB200025+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5410402223571654530" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZHKsBQZuGK9YIVUsTf2PlmQC3Ca7NUu_av0nLfZHp1wTrGHr4SetuNOr6ECc9hj68GzJWmcmhrzaR8uIvcrmL4QG1kURv-LJkBHYL4TDxp-u85-Go3sNFLRRI4KhsroJ3Lt8i2TaNoTM/s1600/PB200028+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZHKsBQZuGK9YIVUsTf2PlmQC3Ca7NUu_av0nLfZHp1wTrGHr4SetuNOr6ECc9hj68GzJWmcmhrzaR8uIvcrmL4QG1kURv-LJkBHYL4TDxp-u85-Go3sNFLRRI4KhsroJ3Lt8i2TaNoTM/s320/PB200028+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5410402216682524162" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcQRJbQpKfs2QVZDP96-ZQBkEv8To0q0vNCuvAJNQRiZs9WRERhyphenhyphenyeKLO4kQAfK1mwf9k89PG5AEWxMdYBOJT1f-fTEUmLJ-y0ao71joqyU0mtXgmFOKgktkehesMWqM23wgN2CiPE6oo/s1600/PB200034+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcQRJbQpKfs2QVZDP96-ZQBkEv8To0q0vNCuvAJNQRiZs9WRERhyphenhyphenyeKLO4kQAfK1mwf9k89PG5AEWxMdYBOJT1f-fTEUmLJ-y0ao71joqyU0mtXgmFOKgktkehesMWqM23wgN2CiPE6oo/s320/PB200034+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5410402213328774034" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJiJ1MRmXF8BPIqexGHdnVf2f4Q0uB_rQ2oEELnR_Hf_LADDmUFyi50IDLBMGc58cpyJLxmgNKJH21rbs2LcFM_Ty2lmh94hu4-xtfMgNwtJKBUHgdPcyJHpM8IrLRXsanlurOwoSVueo/s1600/PB200035+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJiJ1MRmXF8BPIqexGHdnVf2f4Q0uB_rQ2oEELnR_Hf_LADDmUFyi50IDLBMGc58cpyJLxmgNKJH21rbs2LcFM_Ty2lmh94hu4-xtfMgNwtJKBUHgdPcyJHpM8IrLRXsanlurOwoSVueo/s320/PB200035+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5410401464918553394" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiB1HIKAuBleLmqU8kHFMeLX9calf9jgmJdtRTke9zuCJO5Vx0ka2ygMYk_lGgzZrtpInPojmZxG7mqwDK7mVddkIWkEjZOQWM0eoMtElYZcNd5fm-qFa0osbhG9mpmmrDDDLUSjgo0gMw/s1600/PB200045+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiB1HIKAuBleLmqU8kHFMeLX9calf9jgmJdtRTke9zuCJO5Vx0ka2ygMYk_lGgzZrtpInPojmZxG7mqwDK7mVddkIWkEjZOQWM0eoMtElYZcNd5fm-qFa0osbhG9mpmmrDDDLUSjgo0gMw/s320/PB200045+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5410401453232372642" border="0" /></a><br /><br />The visibility has to be well over 100 feet as you can see by some of the pictures. Dedea held the dinghy on a long painter and we drifted with the dinghy. There were lots of table coral from the surface to over 100 feet down and we could look up and see the dinghy on the surface. We were visited by a few black tipped sharks and saw some giant clams, a school of rainbow runners and some large and very colorful clown or anemone fish.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />After the dive, we went back onboard SAUVAGE for a <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEie37K8R_PKsqPUhy5flMeLRHfq_lvjSzXznH4e6KrjUkky3P0GlNAYakJs9l2cqz3cS-buLQKfv7o5kbSQv8hSMM9Qa8SKjH7C7v2sjV1ZaTRfHlk4WOQkWG4rmi3plsHYj2FT87aYrcU/s1600/PB200048+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEie37K8R_PKsqPUhy5flMeLRHfq_lvjSzXznH4e6KrjUkky3P0GlNAYakJs9l2cqz3cS-buLQKfv7o5kbSQv8hSMM9Qa8SKjH7C7v2sjV1ZaTRfHlk4WOQkWG4rmi3plsHYj2FT87aYrcU/s320/PB200048+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5410401442659892418" border="0" /></a>wonderful lunch of salad, stir-fry <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDmX2ETgVapX8G6h4G4S4m4e-NEd7xyKoSI8s-xJ4-A4VMW2XxIbdEOqxnQI6ckSQLzm1uD6332k9x7qageJr0NyR4Yb4uQnyiOIWEJ-RnUiV8vwkFJF_XHmSgYJzTiN9-S2hME0t4Z1Q/s1600/Sauvage-4+%5B320x200%5D.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDmX2ETgVapX8G6h4G4S4m4e-NEd7xyKoSI8s-xJ4-A4VMW2XxIbdEOqxnQI6ckSQLzm1uD6332k9x7qageJr0NyR4Yb4uQnyiOIWEJ-RnUiV8vwkFJF_XHmSgYJzTiN9-S2hME0t4Z1Q/s320/Sauvage-4+%5B320x200%5D.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5410404331425604722" border="0" /></a>and B-B-Q tuna <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiM3lT6TvRPlYT4PkjNwKuUba9W-xc8_T-cN-3p2n_k70mikvTK-MLiPZXKtZi1dKeDwFjY5-M1mvPXIqNQ9iSR_uYIYGTAXYlmDtFYLv3MF112mfPfhoowbGiTJb6Iu5nNeKHGya6mqw/s1600/Sauvage-17+%5B320x200%5D.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 133px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiM3lT6TvRPlYT4PkjNwKuUba9W-xc8_T-cN-3p2n_k70mikvTK-MLiPZXKtZi1dKeDwFjY5-M1mvPXIqNQ9iSR_uYIYGTAXYlmDtFYLv3MF112mfPfhoowbGiTJb6Iu5nNeKHGya6mqw/s320/Sauvage-17+%5B320x200%5D.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5410404317804342066" border="0" /></a>cooked in champagne. Dedea and Sophie are great hosts and very entertaining. After our meal, we decided to jump into the ocean for a swim to cool off and to try Sophie’s <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-s88fqWXcRYfH9OtPhxui2SurIlF9wd6QKxUaDcrrzw22jDrJ1hfuFMhvY6lnQZ4q8VGy4yNZebfiVCSk1cEBFjKjyhyfxJOi4SvFAdQ8iyL-DlznoLhGlhyy6A-YMaXm9ZbagKXRT1I/s1600/Sauvage-5+%5B320x200%5D.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-s88fqWXcRYfH9OtPhxui2SurIlF9wd6QKxUaDcrrzw22jDrJ1hfuFMhvY6lnQZ4q8VGy4yNZebfiVCSk1cEBFjKjyhyfxJOi4SvFAdQ8iyL-DlznoLhGlhyy6A-YMaXm9ZbagKXRT1I/s320/Sauvage-5+%5B320x200%5D.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5410404325699848338" border="0" /></a>paddleboard. She makes it look so easy! The women had better luck than the men but it is very much a balancing act that requires lots of concentration.<br />We returned to the anchorage sunburned, well fed and with smiles on our faces after a <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0mfatOigwHNW-kdPhFrwbk_dmEVbZ4FuqSUZG_2tIruhKUJu2aXrf_Kfm4xwocpa9WTFx-WRikss5GoVLLy5HTVCEoxX8wNaV5BIxOq7KofRoxMjkXVNUWveUjN58SuMg72TGnAJ21PE/s1600/PB200047+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0mfatOigwHNW-kdPhFrwbk_dmEVbZ4FuqSUZG_2tIruhKUJu2aXrf_Kfm4xwocpa9WTFx-WRikss5GoVLLy5HTVCEoxX8wNaV5BIxOq7KofRoxMjkXVNUWveUjN58SuMg72TGnAJ21PE/s320/PB200047+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5410401447939379602" border="0" /></a>perfect day!<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDmX2ETgVapX8G6h4G4S4m4e-NEd7xyKoSI8s-xJ4-A4VMW2XxIbdEOqxnQI6ckSQLzm1uD6332k9x7qageJr0NyR4Yb4uQnyiOIWEJ-RnUiV8vwkFJF_XHmSgYJzTiN9-S2hME0t4Z1Q/s1600/Sauvage-4+%5B320x200%5D.jpg"></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-s88fqWXcRYfH9OtPhxui2SurIlF9wd6QKxUaDcrrzw22jDrJ1hfuFMhvY6lnQZ4q8VGy4yNZebfiVCSk1cEBFjKjyhyfxJOi4SvFAdQ8iyL-DlznoLhGlhyy6A-YMaXm9ZbagKXRT1I/s1600/Sauvage-5+%5B320x200%5D.jpg"></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiM3lT6TvRPlYT4PkjNwKuUba9W-xc8_T-cN-3p2n_k70mikvTK-MLiPZXKtZi1dKeDwFjY5-M1mvPXIqNQ9iSR_uYIYGTAXYlmDtFYLv3MF112mfPfhoowbGiTJb6Iu5nNeKHGya6mqw/s1600/Sauvage-17+%5B320x200%5D.jpg"></a>About John and Lindahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09804781596879702975noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-919823168408227838.post-40576414417743713602009-12-02T09:30:00.007+12:002009-12-03T11:31:24.975+12:00"Beer Can Races"<div style="text-align: left;">On November 15, 2009, the Mieco Beach Yacht Club kicked off the racing season with a "Beer Can Race". The actual boats were made out of beer or soda cans <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7cC3R7Fx8iK-Y7lPjaeaofS1nw3o36S7nrkIWnMeMfUdSEbY-HtfMhnxcmBihF8becXRohSt4Wh2KriqGqvlXqv93vJdiU76QhZdhFuReuB3905cNro2otAPvreJusfYFmK_AxL0K0aU/s1600/PB170002+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7cC3R7Fx8iK-Y7lPjaeaofS1nw3o36S7nrkIWnMeMfUdSEbY-HtfMhnxcmBihF8becXRohSt4Wh2KriqGqvlXqv93vJdiU76QhZdhFuReuB3905cNro2otAPvreJusfYFmK_AxL0K0aU/s320/PB170002+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5410384102768180354" border="0" /></a>made by the nonprofit organization Waan Aelon in Majel <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5Z4WWcjAPUClXY6PPJC7V8YzJC6dm0IGBpnd5uyvCHa6V9weF-S0ibRs2qex3woDm66nfHTwR3B94PUpvLmXy7DKw1m-9JaRhozRZeleapK17pN07Y3np5o5ZndZZlaVACT54fhJfyrU/s1600-h/PB170004+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5Z4WWcjAPUClXY6PPJC7V8YzJC6dm0IGBpnd5uyvCHa6V9weF-S0ibRs2qex3woDm66nfHTwR3B94PUpvLmXy7DKw1m-9JaRhozRZeleapK17pN07Y3np5o5ZndZZlaVACT54fhJfyrU/s400/PB170004+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5410784866933322930" border="0" /></a>(Canoes of the Marshall Islands). This organization consists of a group of young people, who for one reason or another, were not able to finish high school and are learning the art of building the traditional sailing canoes of the Marshall Islands. To make some money, they made up the can boats for us for $3 each and we, in turn, sold them for $5 for the event.<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUjvpWjhMJr6Tom_eRtdUnUsY8V6qp7J-L_vNOSHV0n2Hc47irE3YbPP03yE7TFUOoO8VXhBzH3PDjMwWJVcSf2IJMMKe8ggnOb-5BUBGDyo338e0aky1neYg0K8LqiNUQviUC5zys5pI/s1600/PB140001+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUjvpWjhMJr6Tom_eRtdUnUsY8V6qp7J-L_vNOSHV0n2Hc47irE3YbPP03yE7TFUOoO8VXhBzH3PDjMwWJVcSf2IJMMKe8ggnOb-5BUBGDyo338e0aky1neYg0K8LqiNUQviUC5zys5pI/s320/PB140001+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5410385847758572818" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOldEXobtYI3KOTi2suvZVkVkqnFvo6xX_YEvmSx8m7EjVe2Y-P5puyY8MlNJ1-SFZ2dM2GC2RWYA0B7PeIppl0tVLDnFe3-eeBDOiVgUEcZJ6z32QPNnUJNkB8hwXSn51obRAhshAX9I/s1600-h/PB140004+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOldEXobtYI3KOTi2suvZVkVkqnFvo6xX_YEvmSx8m7EjVe2Y-P5puyY8MlNJ1-SFZ2dM2GC2RWYA0B7PeIppl0tVLDnFe3-eeBDOiVgUEcZJ6z32QPNnUJNkB8hwXSn51obRAhshAX9I/s400/PB140004+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5410785003527237090" border="0" /></a><br />Linda's boat sank before completion of her heat. John managed to keep his afloat but didn't win his heat.<br /></div><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhO71Eib6NWiLrvusrLuKgDyOqFwXT_gWX48c8XDxysO0p3kI3aPcEyHYFEGiVdox1BC8HZhsmdveMFQxR6I4gN30Y3HFeYJL3CeLl4Z8501qMVRRSlxMGsU91PbdvYHrEmtPpiHY7iwrc/s1600/PB170004+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><br /><br /></a>The boats were raced in four different heats with the final winner, Eugene, a 15 year old local boy. Eugene's prize was a $25 dinner at the resort.<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7eQ0CA8Ww5Opvo49W0zdRzZr7wP8vOB5oLTQJpa-e6AkCg46I3bsauEKntewqw6i599zFkPb7T-EQXUN-KI7R9l9nMNp6-I08BugRNRsGXOwO2-d7oINiFE__ftHARtxSVQpa8tR-lIk/s1600-h/mbyc+eugene+john+%5B320x200%5D.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 213px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7eQ0CA8Ww5Opvo49W0zdRzZr7wP8vOB5oLTQJpa-e6AkCg46I3bsauEKntewqw6i599zFkPb7T-EQXUN-KI7R9l9nMNp6-I08BugRNRsGXOwO2-d7oINiFE__ftHARtxSVQpa8tR-lIk/s400/mbyc+eugene+john+%5B320x200%5D.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5410784517819758306" border="0" /></a>About John and Lindahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09804781596879702975noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-919823168408227838.post-52937660672611827262009-11-25T09:59:00.000+12:002009-12-02T10:39:01.095+12:00WAM WEEKENDInteraction with the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_0">Waan</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1">Aelon</span> in <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_2">Majel</span> (Canoes of <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_3">theMarshall</span> Islands)<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKoEOx15J9EPHqM5UljavbOjojuA5F_N8x4R6Wz-7WgEKzDMtQKYI_IwAdgPkb4_6vHoYpFhAjx5wfBXipiXc1o_JVqe2ZKahoV7pRB52WYO_sLsK5_HIwN-J_gHRnk08rXjIZQeYhMuU/s1600/PB190057+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKoEOx15J9EPHqM5UljavbOjojuA5F_N8x4R6Wz-7WgEKzDMtQKYI_IwAdgPkb4_6vHoYpFhAjx5wfBXipiXc1o_JVqe2ZKahoV7pRB52WYO_sLsK5_HIwN-J_gHRnk08rXjIZQeYhMuU/s320/PB190057+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5410393188332097810" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Since we arrived in the Marshall Islands and saw the sailing canoes in the lagoon, we have been interested in taking a ride on one. That opportunity finally arrived! Linda had been visiting the building where the teachings of troubled youths, through a <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_4">government</span> funded organization, are given another chance. In this program, they learn the mechanical skills in the building of ancient sailing canoes. There is lots of math involved and the students are learning in a “work” atmosphere. They are expected to report on time each day as if it were a job. They learn how to operate tools and take care of them. Many of these students have had problems with alcohol, beetle nut, teen pregnancy and other issues that had caused them to drop out of regular school.<br />An idea took form that we could take them on our boats and show them what it is like to live on a sailboat and maybe even do a little sailing. They, in return, would take us sailing on the canoes. We met at an anchorage close by and <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_5">dinghed</span> the kids out to the three boats that volunteered. There were very light winds so <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_6">HAWKEYE</span> was the only boat that could actually sail. The other <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBYdLdKxfVezw8a9jujkt_fAGmt1cBo3yGQdB3DTwL2Ln1E3WTJeiRWnrjFkNRwtlDTEfiNu4IrhCvVLMFJQa-Oewn19_wkrFgMpaaMDkCyOqw_Wxv9bXUsYIlrpabSoIqEPKJMT6UtJU/s1600/PB180006+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBYdLdKxfVezw8a9jujkt_fAGmt1cBo3yGQdB3DTwL2Ln1E3WTJeiRWnrjFkNRwtlDTEfiNu4IrhCvVLMFJQa-Oewn19_wkrFgMpaaMDkCyOqw_Wxv9bXUsYIlrpabSoIqEPKJMT6UtJU/s320/PB180006+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5410391460444203458" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_8UuCnIvpsi1mpdSESXdYj6T5iXO0Sj6ciUMtpggj758Z_4IqKEbrPhKeNBXCglPJ-UmdloS5YTH0qZs-qm9hHcBh6lVhZUV5hUs0QeUq_LX2dFG_AGyAcf4N_Qtn59Pr7qXD8gzfPRk/s1600/PB180005+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_8UuCnIvpsi1mpdSESXdYj6T5iXO0Sj6ciUMtpggj758Z_4IqKEbrPhKeNBXCglPJ-UmdloS5YTH0qZs-qm9hHcBh6lVhZUV5hUs0QeUq_LX2dFG_AGyAcf4N_Qtn59Pr7qXD8gzfPRk/s320/PB180005+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5410391455825885474" border="0" /></a><br />boats ended up giving tours showing how things worked on their boats. The students were impressed with the fact that we are self contained in that we make our own electricity and water. The tasting of the water was popular as they were very surprised that it <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_7">wasn</span>’t salty.<br />Aboard <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_8">HAWKEYE</span>, we had three young men who had lots of questions and were very inquisitive as to how we could cook on the stove when the boat was healed over and how we navigated. Once we had answered all their questions and shown them around, we went out for a sail having them raise the sails and do the work as we explained what to do. They all had a turn on the helm, navigating, and working the sails.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLjwltmcoLPwovCSZmN3bxe-xiWgE5P07HCyYNVq365CsjA_sYE8f_MyQzrIEexgGWt_N1BOOmbVoNRxYszT2tLAXYOXRtCxC_mlmsd0a12xRFU6jdBI0lZPe4Lp5cV4zwCWOfAF0WZKY/s1600/PB192915+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 251px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLjwltmcoLPwovCSZmN3bxe-xiWgE5P07HCyYNVq365CsjA_sYE8f_MyQzrIEexgGWt_N1BOOmbVoNRxYszT2tLAXYOXRtCxC_mlmsd0a12xRFU6jdBI0lZPe4Lp5cV4zwCWOfAF0WZKY/s320/PB192915+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5410393485415604178" border="0" /></a>Part of their education was also being able to feed themselves at a remote location. So, that night we could see their flashlights on shore as they gathered crabs. The next day at low tide, they were seen on the reef gathering several kinds of shells which they cooked and later extracted the meat. On land, there was the gathering of breadfruit and coconut as well as leaves and palm fronds to be used in the cooking. We were invited to their <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_9">umu</span> (they build a fire, and heat rocks, bury all the food prepared and bake in underground for several hours) that night but it was way too late for us cruisers to be eating dinner.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggFGQ_MGryEWc7Ode0xUuL8UNGEqPmoRyQk_jPRSTIR7s94R2wcEY4_yx2k-dwx1ybTAaDG0I2cyGioVXtcXerGLwTjalW3Aasc7elUCgqrr02CS2H8kICmwCjI7ckO6hq_JAUsG3vjxA/s1600/PB190074+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggFGQ_MGryEWc7Ode0xUuL8UNGEqPmoRyQk_jPRSTIR7s94R2wcEY4_yx2k-dwx1ybTAaDG0I2cyGioVXtcXerGLwTjalW3Aasc7elUCgqrr02CS2H8kICmwCjI7ckO6hq_JAUsG3vjxA/s320/PB190074+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5410393477320748818" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxT4KR1VrrXElXEyw_7P7a1jzn6RDzG_TyFlqmMYLsfe2siwA0HW_UtKigT1wtww1kzKt6bRH2k4PJMgYOorEWFQkkHy_KkL7IbTCfutRUZr3jcd2qLhjlrw_WGrcNQQ0botK79bbcw_U/s1600/PB190071+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxT4KR1VrrXElXEyw_7P7a1jzn6RDzG_TyFlqmMYLsfe2siwA0HW_UtKigT1wtww1kzKt6bRH2k4PJMgYOorEWFQkkHy_KkL7IbTCfutRUZr3jcd2qLhjlrw_WGrcNQQ0botK79bbcw_U/s320/PB190071+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5410393472829014786" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEil0dCHTgFaExVqVN_acc4CiQ1UXCOOiCvG42DUCcuRyelf1aqn4Rawyptw1nWsP3hBVQsZuZKnG6cBB830BF21NQ95DtZnOksONQHs1tzRkapQkO_5mP6dVd-LZV0jfkTcx-BtPwcqLYQ/s1600/PB190063+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEil0dCHTgFaExVqVN_acc4CiQ1UXCOOiCvG42DUCcuRyelf1aqn4Rawyptw1nWsP3hBVQsZuZKnG6cBB830BF21NQ95DtZnOksONQHs1tzRkapQkO_5mP6dVd-LZV0jfkTcx-BtPwcqLYQ/s320/PB190063+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5410393193106423250" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgy6JbdrbQZNKzNMF14GR6MNP5MYwMlPY8zclCeAfLszk0XV9q-ZuSU5RjczrBUsstaJ9uXZ7Wdcoz4FADuAZc2ypw4MTo3BiysNnLOVc3shXi3euA5P7EZLwJm7KfldFooXbeiCgGUGU4/s1600/PB190008+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgy6JbdrbQZNKzNMF14GR6MNP5MYwMlPY8zclCeAfLszk0XV9q-ZuSU5RjczrBUsstaJ9uXZ7Wdcoz4FADuAZc2ypw4MTo3BiysNnLOVc3shXi3euA5P7EZLwJm7KfldFooXbeiCgGUGU4/s320/PB190008+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5410391464998179362" border="0" /></a><br /> The next day at high tide, we were invited for a ride on thesailing canoes. What an e-ticket ride! We sat on a raised portion between the two <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_10">amas</span> and the two guys sailed the boats. The boats only hold 3 people so John and I were on different boats. One of the guys uses a large oar that steers the boat and gently skulls the canoe out to where the wind can be caught. Once the wind is in the sail, it accelerates rapidly and away we went. There is very little <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_11">free board</span> on <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEik_37bnHdDRS6GLCI8CsMvrBsHiw-nyavOu6lDLe0ZOqp1aNtmrMFLOjz-_dqr2uq1D-tAjmTPefzwvNwGgyaC9FOsm2H1xSE5WeTA_7tMhm_5k4LIEuFLhWELLN6hrC9UNtaVTR9Numo/s1600/PB190034+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEik_37bnHdDRS6GLCI8CsMvrBsHiw-nyavOu6lDLe0ZOqp1aNtmrMFLOjz-_dqr2uq1D-tAjmTPefzwvNwGgyaC9FOsm2H1xSE5WeTA_7tMhm_5k4LIEuFLhWELLN6hrC9UNtaVTR9Numo/s320/PB190034+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5410393169479782770" border="0" /></a> <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTEL1S4SpG7n4k_PT0aPZZuXi86yV1BAd7xKzEFbx3Dz3kUUg-osC7ZQume3ZCXUVXLPveamUVCVTWI1ni5QujC5yEC4xb359YmQ4vmYBiVd6u3sePZxfdpYgsXfQ6e4_pPEWQa7DNL4E/s1600/PB190035+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTEL1S4SpG7n4k_PT0aPZZuXi86yV1BAd7xKzEFbx3Dz3kUUg-osC7ZQume3ZCXUVXLPveamUVCVTWI1ni5QujC5yEC4xb359YmQ4vmYBiVd6u3sePZxfdpYgsXfQ6e4_pPEWQa7DNL4E/s320/PB190035+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5410393179091912530" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEin_eKD7K5MWrCgGrD1kmfR8t5gjANSzFsRp9s2HG35Cgcnai-aV_W-vdX_wts_lMgmGwNCluR4yRwG7-30kQzDQJQNgjEthKOEVXJvd06lyZ0kbcy3Td8yUDbJOa2y5SEGdoLrlve4Oc0/s1600/PB190040+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEin_eKD7K5MWrCgGrD1kmfR8t5gjANSzFsRp9s2HG35Cgcnai-aV_W-vdX_wts_lMgmGwNCluR4yRwG7-30kQzDQJQNgjEthKOEVXJvd06lyZ0kbcy3Td8yUDbJOa2y5SEGdoLrlve4Oc0/s320/PB190040+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5410393185326350994" border="0" /></a>these boats andperiod. It is a wild very little room and wet ride. Tacking is done by taking the mast from one end of the boat to the other and must be done quickly or the boat goes head to wind and in irons. John’s boat lost the mast overboard and they were dead in the water for quite a while but there was a crash boat that came to their rescue. The fellows on the boat Linda was on managed to tack but with great difficulty and managed to get back safely to shore unassisted. It was a wonderful experience we won’t soon forget. <br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhK1lXbWRX2zcgv8V7sb_UQJ0O5rC4_6kkjaShBDZnwDLeqJKRu_8_2jLXpc2tpzT2yUSuHIJ35JuAJZiC6mBi88RECeqmUqrKeN9Vc3-ur2XUDZw_mbsx2xVe1RiyB_lZwJ4Wuluf9LLI/s1600/PB202920+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 233px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhK1lXbWRX2zcgv8V7sb_UQJ0O5rC4_6kkjaShBDZnwDLeqJKRu_8_2jLXpc2tpzT2yUSuHIJ35JuAJZiC6mBi88RECeqmUqrKeN9Vc3-ur2XUDZw_mbsx2xVe1RiyB_lZwJ4Wuluf9LLI/s320/PB202920+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5410393487797960562" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicDvH5SNPnhNF-xyw7cX4nvbvRvSEzVIzA1R4hPIqv6M_IRnirGywbXx1rNuP2DJGR2S2rkCRRbq9iHgoAGAMnnbMlmvL3xGetGCBQf-sOjEwvzLziBOSNv5rgBpnPkcZoRxbx72vdvDs/s1600/PB190030+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicDvH5SNPnhNF-xyw7cX4nvbvRvSEzVIzA1R4hPIqv6M_IRnirGywbXx1rNuP2DJGR2S2rkCRRbq9iHgoAGAMnnbMlmvL3xGetGCBQf-sOjEwvzLziBOSNv5rgBpnPkcZoRxbx72vdvDs/s320/PB190030+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5410391480131354658" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHd6mSEUZOnUXHYyVFFp-3aBUU3lZF5cFJcpRbTwrflEuHtneabyyeXI3mlAW_sfHrcvrCiOZHa8Lavi3A0-4XI1Liy7wC3CvpTftf9wBvVh8IxqMmDh2srHGgOgl9UeY2uLO13TAk8ts/s1600/PB190010+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHd6mSEUZOnUXHYyVFFp-3aBUU3lZF5cFJcpRbTwrflEuHtneabyyeXI3mlAW_sfHrcvrCiOZHa8Lavi3A0-4XI1Liy7wC3CvpTftf9wBvVh8IxqMmDh2srHGgOgl9UeY2uLO13TAk8ts/s320/PB190010+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5410391474930647026" border="0" /></a>This little guy was about 4 years old and was already into spearfishing!<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgy6JbdrbQZNKzNMF14GR6MNP5MYwMlPY8zclCeAfLszk0XV9q-ZuSU5RjczrBUsstaJ9uXZ7Wdcoz4FADuAZc2ypw4MTo3BiysNnLOVc3shXi3euA5P7EZLwJm7KfldFooXbeiCgGUGU4/s1600/PB190008+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"></a>About John and Lindahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09804781596879702975noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-919823168408227838.post-33106031355165734122009-11-06T11:52:00.005+12:002009-11-08T10:31:24.442+12:00The HauloutLife on the hard IS hard! HAWKEYE hauled out a week ago last Wednesday to do some work on the keel, replace the bearings on the rudder, reglass the rudder and paint the bottom as well as some usual haul out maintenance. We had been watching a crack in the fiberglass where the keel is attached to the bottom of the boat for the last two years and decided that now was the time to haul out and see what was causing the problem.<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhW7EAB0os63uP8m6xVd_r-o-h7WmRdZDomPu5a1JjYa2UEu6ADJw5iuyWmiyYaNmR6a9SHY5DTuCpcdwDhv6XlL_SHinCnLtALi9MIncDxyDOIG93qJmimzp3fscCNP3QBevx7JyYvVjU/s1600-h/DSC00125+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="MARGIN: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; WIDTH: 267px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 200px; CURSOR: pointer" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5400773442478893650" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhW7EAB0os63uP8m6xVd_r-o-h7WmRdZDomPu5a1JjYa2UEu6ADJw5iuyWmiyYaNmR6a9SHY5DTuCpcdwDhv6XlL_SHinCnLtALi9MIncDxyDOIG93qJmimzp3fscCNP3QBevx7JyYvVjU/s320/DSC00125+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiChWKhnMjuDWzzH9o7dE8e-AvU_EZ0tFMe9WgWKfKKYrMejM6OJx2WcXwF22qpC_2wv0rPd17eSUACBWhdOdwMHvZaQwDSd715x9YDz18RcWV34dlPq4YuAYk6Uoco9N4flnHQd-LtKdw/s1600-h/DSC00126+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="MARGIN: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; WIDTH: 267px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 200px; CURSOR: pointer" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5400773435872996082" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiChWKhnMjuDWzzH9o7dE8e-AvU_EZ0tFMe9WgWKfKKYrMejM6OJx2WcXwF22qpC_2wv0rPd17eSUACBWhdOdwMHvZaQwDSd715x9YDz18RcWV34dlPq4YuAYk6Uoco9N4flnHQd-LtKdw/s320/DSC00126+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmEOqqoP4h18MHnJLKxyIquFA0hOoaoBYVNmhHOVZDOO3tBukq9r7N4BVgnWka-3NoyxtsG3cAj-Ntjj0oBdG_9pcuaADBGKpHbkeKZrlEXeyR6eHNqZoNTe7Rx-DNbfpmKiUBOkdss74/s1600-h/DSC00127+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="MARGIN: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; WIDTH: 267px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 200px; CURSOR: pointer" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5400773434208913938" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmEOqqoP4h18MHnJLKxyIquFA0hOoaoBYVNmhHOVZDOO3tBukq9r7N4BVgnWka-3NoyxtsG3cAj-Ntjj0oBdG_9pcuaADBGKpHbkeKZrlEXeyR6eHNqZoNTe7Rx-DNbfpmKiUBOkdss74/s320/DSC00127+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDPcDALWpVF5YiGT3ZMzkqrD1fSVefs_bLHhheZBkrwcAyw3Sj65zHm9_JgEE2oNal8Nq2FzAflCtUCorVpfCs2oYatRJf_qPM5JCgyENzFeradp1MQfW_R3Vw-hqZaxUx9DuI_ZhdBVU/s1600-h/DSC00128+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="MARGIN: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; WIDTH: 267px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 200px; CURSOR: pointer" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5400773433302064930" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDPcDALWpVF5YiGT3ZMzkqrD1fSVefs_bLHhheZBkrwcAyw3Sj65zHm9_JgEE2oNal8Nq2FzAflCtUCorVpfCs2oYatRJf_qPM5JCgyENzFeradp1MQfW_R3Vw-hqZaxUx9DuI_ZhdBVU/s320/DSC00128+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" /></a><br />I have attached some pictures of the haul out that Dave on IRISH MELODY took. It was supposed to be Linda’s job to do but she ended up in the water placing and checking the large straps that went under the boat in order to life HAWKEYE correctly out of the water. A large crane is used with large straps that go under the bottom of the boat on either side of the keel. Hauling out is always a stressful experience as there is always the fea<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhN7VegKCcEiL6qFrpyeAnHxO3wlVdYUyiv9aWxDx17SS4pemQ24FJgrZA2jVKA1J43RQzHemQMn5h6aRAONNZQqC1vHWtdTAo3TS3QzjGuoOlW2NJmdDGGfe1LCYxKWHbXJ8NBCogziFg/s1600-h/DSC00129+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="MARGIN: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; WIDTH: 267px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 200px; CURSOR: pointer" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5400773426113149202" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhN7VegKCcEiL6qFrpyeAnHxO3wlVdYUyiv9aWxDx17SS4pemQ24FJgrZA2jVKA1J43RQzHemQMn5h6aRAONNZQqC1vHWtdTAo3TS3QzjGuoOlW2NJmdDGGfe1LCYxKWHbXJ8NBCogziFg/s320/DSC00129+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" /></a>r that the boat will be dropped. All those horror stories come to mind at these times…<br />Anyway, all went relatively well. We had help from several cruising friends Dave on IRISH MELODY, Larry on KATIE LEE, Spike on HALUKI, Cary on SEAL, and Lee, our hired hand. Every jerking movement, made HAWKEYE shake and a sigh of relief went out as stands were placed under her to support her while on the hard.<br />We had originally checked with our friends of the boat PANACEA to see if we could stay on their boat which they said was fine; but, decided to stay on HAWKEYE instead, as it is easier to start work earlier and work longer in the <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEfCv_l7Rw7yopEgdENLYu-jS6FXtIkFuB9g3y5_hKMGXTvcXh9r-zJRyBeT6vWE2eoSvfT1yjCeZhUdIMarx1pATvD40x4moPI4Hter_btsMrJDkFl6e53YgHWuCrQNMnram5MpskjtY/s1600-h/DSC00130+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="MARGIN: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; WIDTH: 267px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 200px; CURSOR: pointer" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5400773171912071346" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEfCv_l7Rw7yopEgdENLYu-jS6FXtIkFuB9g3y5_hKMGXTvcXh9r-zJRyBeT6vWE2eoSvfT1yjCeZhUdIMarx1pATvD40x4moPI4Hter_btsMrJDkFl6e53YgHWuCrQNMnram5MpskjtY/s320/DSC00130+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" /></a>day if we are on the boat. It would have been much more comfortable to stay on PANACEA as we can’t use the head, have to go up and down the ladder numerous times a day and have to contend with mosquitoes which are quite numerous on land.<br />The work has gone pretty good so far and with luck, we should be back in the water Saturday. The fellow we hired, Lee, is an expat. who has lived in Majuro for 15 years and is very knowledgeable in boat repair. Cary made all the arrangements for the yard and crane, getting the machined work done, etc. Without him, it wouldn’t have happened as he has all the contacts <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJidNLFvHqGe6C0pTy-Bu1D7Ycs9HzHz5YGGZLwn2vDHTe43ekakN00qljtIc_559_NJZtC5CSNkVKMRXf1t60w3fBwzz4FdOxmv6-B1_o6vj1DVFPzu-KEz8XFwwcdwf_eJHzPCs1ffE/s1600-h/DSC00131+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="MARGIN: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; WIDTH: 267px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 200px; CURSOR: pointer" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5400773167647898002" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJidNLFvHqGe6C0pTy-Bu1D7Ycs9HzHz5YGGZLwn2vDHTe43ekakN00qljtIc_559_NJZtC5CSNkVKMRXf1t60w3fBwzz4FdOxmv6-B1_o6vj1DVFPzu-KEz8XFwwcdwf_eJHzPCs1ffE/s320/DSC00131+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZt0fJ-E6xlmiwl5qhU55Wen8FHyJOEUKFjmBcVYIe-eCu4kpSAI2LxMObGEPnfXTCYaWGH6ZukmJTEaPEhZJN6CV0CVIyOyukN62EkY2llvjuHndu6FnR01OGUwH6bcps1801M891iNI/s1600-h/DSC00132+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="MARGIN: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; WIDTH: 273px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 200px; CURSOR: pointer" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5400773165619670210" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZt0fJ-E6xlmiwl5qhU55Wen8FHyJOEUKFjmBcVYIe-eCu4kpSAI2LxMObGEPnfXTCYaWGH6ZukmJTEaPEhZJN6CV0CVIyOyukN62EkY2llvjuHndu6FnR01OGUwH6bcps1801M891iNI/s320/DSC00132+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEAVpSPljn7MSWfor9CSzUc0StyD-gd8HpkLgcfp2BaAzQ77Z5B7Y5fT_zJSfDGRXTRO5z1LctgF8SPya0ptSY-vwCSFEHxoU-Hrmw4sCUmWF4DKD3IOiTthg-QmIOpZ7h5hivRK5XBfo/s1600-h/DSC00134+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="MARGIN: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; WIDTH: 267px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 200px; CURSOR: pointer" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5400773161662355458" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEAVpSPljn7MSWfor9CSzUc0StyD-gd8HpkLgcfp2BaAzQ77Z5B7Y5fT_zJSfDGRXTRO5z1LctgF8SPya0ptSY-vwCSFEHxoU-Hrmw4sCUmWF4DKD3IOiTthg-QmIOpZ7h5hivRK5XBfo/s320/DSC00134+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEUytsNpcijugPL9WisnpyJ34cJZ9wLSeeo5ZIkQGI-AAHJ7_mIR__Fw0PLeXJbbXS6HBgfvOW8SQy45B5nwsSSKIL6-tz9-LBQ1GuWh4rCSFoh3QNxRVkFqilU8nOEBfzqG3Uq1Ypu8A/s1600-h/DSC00135+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="MARGIN: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; WIDTH: 267px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 200px; CURSOR: pointer" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5400773158809310210" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEUytsNpcijugPL9WisnpyJ34cJZ9wLSeeo5ZIkQGI-AAHJ7_mIR__Fw0PLeXJbbXS6HBgfvOW8SQy45B5nwsSSKIL6-tz9-LBQ1GuWh4rCSFoh3QNxRVkFqilU8nOEBfzqG3Uq1Ypu8A/s320/DSC00135+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixdyPuO3AkECpwiLO66tX2Vssb4XqYkD0BoEX0yrJ9taYqlope2T0PSR6tDsrk8b-X4DQ6Xo41xkSG3W92KYNLKWcIAZUERA5VJOpqDXRPwa06KWKGH8_NxFaFkFtqMIhE1RWlICZClSk/s1600-h/DSC00136+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="MARGIN: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; WIDTH: 267px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 200px; CURSOR: pointer" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5400772318500818290" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixdyPuO3AkECpwiLO66tX2Vssb4XqYkD0BoEX0yrJ9taYqlope2T0PSR6tDsrk8b-X4DQ6Xo41xkSG3W92KYNLKWcIAZUERA5VJOpqDXRPwa06KWKGH8_NxFaFkFtqMIhE1RWlICZClSk/s320/DSC00136+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" /></a>and makes everything come together. He also has all the tools needed to do the jobs-a great guy to do business with and a good friend.<br />Internet access has been quite limited for the last month so it is difficult to accomplish anything on the internet. It is up and down several times a day and always goes down when you are right in the middle of something. So, please excuse us for not responding to emails in a timely manner but we will try to get to it as soon as they have the system fixed. Fiber optic cable is supposed to be laid to the Marshall Islands by next May so until then, they just try to patch the internet system which is very frustrating.<br />One thing about life on the hard in Majuro is the spectacular view we get from the boat. We are on the lagoon side but just across the road is the open ocean. So you can get a better idea of just how narrow the land of an atoll can be. It just so happened that we are hauled out during the full moon which brings the highest and lowest tides. At high tide, it sure makes a believer of you that global warming is, unfortunately, happening.<br /><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyUE-FoF9sAZRQUoU2D1VAVOEJBKI4rIJUlJvO9BL_Nsk4nODOU9nZiw39JbzoJ0DugrvStOFhXe8EQOU8lYARzVMsFCbC1naEapnravNz7MrEvyjlEXPqATT7k5SsAqMTCWYJryKIRNg/s1600-h/DSC00137+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="MARGIN: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; WIDTH: 150px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 200px; CURSOR: pointer" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5400772316591757330" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyUE-FoF9sAZRQUoU2D1VAVOEJBKI4rIJUlJvO9BL_Nsk4nODOU9nZiw39JbzoJ0DugrvStOFhXe8EQOU8lYARzVMsFCbC1naEapnravNz7MrEvyjlEXPqATT7k5SsAqMTCWYJryKIRNg/s320/DSC00137+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjc8aZGmbf06QGsYApt5P6EghCk98llsQZBiFCL4vjjnCHN0dvM02zNqBDFGanibdrq_60qJr9l9slnMh82j_6tCpEWd-W52gxehI9liFx3KgU9EJF7-WtgCDiw59iTioPDRTCEqoUCIvo/s1600-h/DSC00138+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="MARGIN: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; WIDTH: 150px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 200px; CURSOR: pointer" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5400772313265350210" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjc8aZGmbf06QGsYApt5P6EghCk98llsQZBiFCL4vjjnCHN0dvM02zNqBDFGanibdrq_60qJr9l9slnMh82j_6tCpEWd-W52gxehI9liFx3KgU9EJF7-WtgCDiw59iTioPDRTCEqoUCIvo/s320/DSC00138+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4-p0luRE17kxnMAcdHaf3QzB25y_TmNPdnBXmqyhP_JUES1g06uhRz-NIvwHio9q7BszAX0WTDJFQDQirESZ3oONHethe03QYlnbRImlmxg-u9OLmU2DBkWnMKjy_Vc-Kekfv4mBJEhY/s1600-h/DSC00139+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="MARGIN: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; WIDTH: 150px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 200px; CURSOR: pointer" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5400772310047398706" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4-p0luRE17kxnMAcdHaf3QzB25y_TmNPdnBXmqyhP_JUES1g06uhRz-NIvwHio9q7BszAX0WTDJFQDQirESZ3oONHethe03QYlnbRImlmxg-u9OLmU2DBkWnMKjy_Vc-Kekfv4mBJEhY/s320/DSC00139+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" /></a><br /><br /><br /><input id="gwProxy" type="hidden"><input id="jsProxy" onclick="jsCall();" type="hidden"> <div id="refHTML"></div>About John and Lindahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09804781596879702975noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-919823168408227838.post-11188840494383618002009-11-06T11:39:00.005+12:002009-11-08T10:33:29.460+12:00Enamanet AnchorageSince returning to HAWKEYE mid September, we have had the opportunity to go out to Enamanet Anchorage and spend a few days. It is a beautiful anchorage, or more appropriately, <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyNLuPl8kJ_938k5SmChblN_M8uU3Yi8TP6hY_dtjJ7o4xQ63kou9GXraWHuqOrAmLD2nT8LzIOufdeE6T11kjsbixKXW3f-jApx9w2k08uoJuoUA21nTD6P3QOgsRLdBta0QuDBcoGSA/s1600-h/PA170111+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="MARGIN: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; WIDTH: 267px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 200px; CURSOR: pointer" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5400769269959508674" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyNLuPl8kJ_938k5SmChblN_M8uU3Yi8TP6hY_dtjJ7o4xQ63kou9GXraWHuqOrAmLD2nT8LzIOufdeE6T11kjsbixKXW3f-jApx9w2k08uoJuoUA21nTD6P3QOgsRLdBta0QuDBcoGSA/s320/PA170111+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" /></a>mooring area. <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiliWi-ppOtJ3Qwz5T0U3uZA_9eZQvIpGrMwp8e0KK8eoLgfiPs6Bn9uivlYMwjHoWXW5NYWzaChLA-vN_RPtxRAGBLI15IAr4fqZO-verWnGhdByFQrVKrh7O51f78RY-9KcDNsJ5IVA/s1600-h/PA170060+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="MARGIN: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; WIDTH: 200px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 200px; CURSOR: pointer" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5400769265418676322" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiliWi-ppOtJ3Qwz5T0U3uZA_9eZQvIpGrMwp8e0KK8eoLgfiPs6Bn9uivlYMwjHoWXW5NYWzaChLA-vN_RPtxRAGBLI15IAr4fqZO-verWnGhdByFQrVKrh7O51f78RY-9KcDNsJ5IVA/s320/PA170060+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" /></a>The Mieco Beach <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEis1WXb6OO8V76-JNgDNFBiYxH0_CQAJouQLO_BVrv2WdkOrd1i6ma5PmlL4IxsHUkGMesHgKM_M1c7Iy6wxiMu2TydvVOEqjDJtZZ8BsyJWg5HW_S5mP_RHc1UhgvVKeap_2by3oUfQ3c/s1600-h/PA170107+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="MARGIN: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; WIDTH: 267px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 200px; CURSOR: pointer" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5400769269581325202" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEis1WXb6OO8V76-JNgDNFBiYxH0_CQAJouQLO_BVrv2WdkOrd1i6ma5PmlL4IxsHUkGMesHgKM_M1c7Iy6wxiMu2TydvVOEqjDJtZZ8BsyJWg5HW_S5mP_RHc1UhgvVKeap_2by3oUfQ3c/s320/PA170107+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFEHHwEYYgpoimOGcZi-5If_3qbHCTH9uLxuUhGibTIxI28mj7_D90oageqfht5ebzvtBMibIDJd8a49CZ_PxwL9jgM9GzHzlGPO85vzSpgVgmym7jpyC4tqEJG1zk65nLRwPkkodbKe4/s1600-h/PA170050+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="MARGIN: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; WIDTH: 267px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 200px; CURSOR: pointer" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5400769256430538802" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFEHHwEYYgpoimOGcZi-5If_3qbHCTH9uLxuUhGibTIxI28mj7_D90oageqfht5ebzvtBMibIDJd8a49CZ_PxwL9jgM9GzHzlGPO85vzSpgVgmym7jpyC4tqEJG1zk65nLRwPkkodbKe4/s320/PA170050+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" /></a>Yacht Club put in 7 <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjenhMliG4-9cwhsh63MB-eggGqunmcoP8iIWpWC7an08RLoF4M38tv8xsBG48cO4yC4gpSK09lfD2N5qwys5HoEYkCjoVDUtBDVzeLiyfM6P75nph8knuQ95RE-0xirmozsyM1QK5ywfk/s1600-h/PA170059+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="MARGIN: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; WIDTH: 267px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 200px; CURSOR: pointer" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5400769260121711938" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjenhMliG4-9cwhsh63MB-eggGqunmcoP8iIWpWC7an08RLoF4M38tv8xsBG48cO4yC4gpSK09lfD2N5qwys5HoEYkCjoVDUtBDVzeLiyfM6P75nph8knuQ95RE-0xirmozsyM1QK5ywfk/s320/PA170059+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" /></a>moorings last year. It was done to protect the beautiful reefs so that boats would not be dropping anchors on the reefs and destroying them. On shore, there is a picnic area and a nice palm covered area in case of rain or to get out of the sun. The beach on the lagoon <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvYKbDsQYDieS4tDZU7E_A6ExYwIMITgFrh5M5ueY-KfZ4f0xQPiE5AFD3393BRaDrHXTyYr_opWLJ3SZmhhiOrniVX_sMWtDrAeL-_XetMCPnG2t1xwrNLfBIcDtJLrFG_t3qKQ6akT0/s1600-h/PA170046+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="MARGIN: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; WIDTH: 203px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 200px; CURSOR: pointer" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5400768669523322322" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvYKbDsQYDieS4tDZU7E_A6ExYwIMITgFrh5M5ueY-KfZ4f0xQPiE5AFD3393BRaDrHXTyYr_opWLJ3SZmhhiOrniVX_sMWtDrAeL-_XetMCPnG2t1xwrNLfBIcDtJLrFG_t3qKQ6akT0/s320/PA170046+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" /></a>side is very protected from wind and waves and the snorkeling is very good. There is also a small dock, a raft with diving board and slide for the kids. Kayaks are kept up from the tide line and can be used by anyone visiting the park.<br />We love the peace and beauty of the place. Also, there is good diving with a wrecked boat and airplane that can be seen from the surface in the clear, warm water and, of course, beautiful tropical fish abound as well as lobster, rays, and some of the pelagic fish have been seen also.<br />Some evenings the cruisers get together for potlucks and music or just socializing which is great<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTSWypV1qfDXggCkUXoNT6X1JgwaDow0Fpmh1FSKYEdk954r9_11FBN3s1b0kuefouyQAPcgYRAkqYcYmE2VRaySMLb5JclF55CloGJdE4ArIx8CQytTfHTpmmJCaIqlSEH2-VhqBWYHk/s1600-h/PA160018+%5B320x200%5D+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="MARGIN: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; WIDTH: 267px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 200px; CURSOR: pointer" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5400768655446434770" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTSWypV1qfDXggCkUXoNT6X1JgwaDow0Fpmh1FSKYEdk954r9_11FBN3s1b0kuefouyQAPcgYRAkqYcYmE2VRaySMLb5JclF55CloGJdE4ArIx8CQytTfHTpmmJCaIqlSEH2-VhqBWYHk/s320/PA160018+%5B320x200%5D+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" /></a> fun. <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVIuaHxHQ8UCipemsR8z2y19wZCu5jpkukhbFnOvI00oUvy0ZgEEaO78TXE7_FJTczG_KGw7IGFRDn1C474kGojehl3nqET1C2MQC4rwWYzoxndnf4V7w32Qy4i-oytMlUwtB4Hj9YgtE/s1600-h/PA160019+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="MARGIN: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; WIDTH: 267px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 200px; CURSOR: pointer" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5400768661303717474" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVIuaHxHQ8UCipemsR8z2y19wZCu5jpkukhbFnOvI00oUvy0ZgEEaO78TXE7_FJTczG_KGw7IGFRDn1C474kGojehl3nqET1C2MQC4rwWYzoxndnf4V7w32Qy4i-oytMlUwtB4Hj9YgtE/s320/PA160019+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVXhV0yu7cqM-ELNjWcNSYPcbPP6Q_SgqnIpKbLsn2WPX8tS1h87-LhNXgtUF8LHd9i6dWEfZ0f5B0Js-bzi7_N3HKr6h5pvrSFL_dTVyU_i4IaiHsuq01KnJLg1zGOHeH08u7DWzAaUs/s1600-h/PA160020+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="MARGIN: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; WIDTH: 267px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 200px; CURSOR: pointer" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5400768663335137346" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVXhV0yu7cqM-ELNjWcNSYPcbPP6Q_SgqnIpKbLsn2WPX8tS1h87-LhNXgtUF8LHd9i6dWEfZ0f5B0Js-bzi7_N3HKr6h5pvrSFL_dTVyU_i4IaiHsuq01KnJLg1zGOHeH08u7DWzAaUs/s320/PA160020+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVXhV0yu7cqM-ELNjWcNSYPcbPP6Q_SgqnIpKbLsn2WPX8tS1h87-LhNXgtUF8LHd9i6dWEfZ0f5B0Js-bzi7_N3HKr6h5pvrSFL_dTVyU_i4IaiHsuq01KnJLg1zGOHeH08u7DWzAaUs/s1600-h/PA160020+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"></a><input id="gwProxy" type="hidden"><input id="jsProxy" onclick="jsCall();" type="hidden"> <div id="refHTML"></div>About John and Lindahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09804781596879702975noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-919823168408227838.post-54947362038371850342009-11-05T11:39:00.005+12:002009-11-08T10:35:28.860+12:00Helping the Out Islands with School SuppliesWith help from family and friends, we were able to collect several hundred books and school supplies to send to 12 different schools for some remote outer islands. Two boxes went to a high school in Kuajalein where there are two World Teach volunteers. Another seven boxes went to elementary schools on various other out islands where there are World Teach volunteers. We have another three boxes that are ready to go to the remote atoll of Ebon where there are no World Teach volunteer but they do have Marshallese teachers. The hold up is finding a boat going to this remote place. We know that these books and supplies will be greatly appreciated.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDWG5k_bpVoBZBUYdbMZBtNXahz9WnWJd6xp0na7cFd38L7PyRilt2325DwzxXgPdIC3SoyJ7ZV-PfdRJAsJfUZPwKTNqFHffOPnerVlsrcNJtLClcF36hD4omSWB4JjGiIkc7toCJQPE/s1600-h/PA260003+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="MARGIN: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; WIDTH: 267px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 200px; CURSOR: pointer" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5400768038176768706" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDWG5k_bpVoBZBUYdbMZBtNXahz9WnWJd6xp0na7cFd38L7PyRilt2325DwzxXgPdIC3SoyJ7ZV-PfdRJAsJfUZPwKTNqFHffOPnerVlsrcNJtLClcF36hD4omSWB4JjGiIkc7toCJQPE/s320/PA260003+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" /></a><br /><br />If you are cleaning out your childrens books getting ready for Christmas, think of these children, some of whom have never seen a book, and send us a package which we will then send on to these kids. You can send a box USPS, via MEDIA MAIL which is relatively cheap considering other charges to send things to: Mieco Beach Yacht Club, School Supplies, General Delivery, Majuro, Marshall Islands 96960. Your donation will be greatly appreciated.<br /><input id="gwProxy" type="hidden"><!--Session data--><input id="jsProxy" onclick="jsCall();" type="hidden"> <div id="refHTML"></div>About John and Lindahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09804781596879702975noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-919823168408227838.post-68899854368818134052009-10-03T17:12:00.004+12:002009-11-08T10:36:09.249+12:00Tsunamai Wave not hereJust to let everyone know, we are fine in Majuro, Marshall Islands. There was no tsunmai wave here. We are very sorry for those who lost their lives, homes, and yachts in Pago Pago, American Samoa, Western Samoa and Niuetoputapu, Tonga. Linda & JohnAbout John and Lindahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09804781596879702975noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-919823168408227838.post-61381019629149777762009-09-26T09:27:00.007+12:002009-11-08T10:38:30.723+12:00First Week in Majuro<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqOXgZj02krYwrqX-q4K0WP-cT6Dt_xfCHQZVd1Z8CZsdu98cQhv8LPQh5RWK2bkNRtunAKnJGA47URrn9AwpofEWZ9-s5oKHThEEpVCHRA0sLPE53eDGuyCoMPn9qWjGxD7MG2qgoatQ/s1600-h/P9240023+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="MARGIN: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; WIDTH: 229px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 200px; CURSOR: pointer" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5385534574749026770" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqOXgZj02krYwrqX-q4K0WP-cT6Dt_xfCHQZVd1Z8CZsdu98cQhv8LPQh5RWK2bkNRtunAKnJGA47URrn9AwpofEWZ9-s5oKHThEEpVCHRA0sLPE53eDGuyCoMPn9qWjGxD7MG2qgoatQ/s320/P9240023+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" /></a>We arrived in Majuro in a rainstorm-welcome home! Just to make sure we were back, a cockroach decided to scurry under my suitcase as I was showing my passport. After some quick foot maneuvering on my part, he decided to move on an intimidate someone else.<br /><br />Things heated up right away when John tried to start our Volvo 18 hp diesel engine to charge the batteries. Deader than a doornail. The engine had seized up. After a week of working on it every day and checking with "Cruisers Forum" on the internet, a great website for cruising people, he finally got it running but he thinks the compression in one of the two cylinders is not up to par.<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyNAQkXUz3duHvbPok3wCOQN30vnLrRwMn-q1-tY2MOOA113xhEPi4k4GY-Hxs_u8CVCE9lMZXNFkKY74AZRirGrj01-_De_R_Z0h9-59r8C7-fGmp3LwbKxfYVnFgKKSuKYvbJPj8ORY/s1600-h/P9240011+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="MARGIN: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; WIDTH: 267px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 200px; CURSOR: pointer" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5385534569107003970" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyNAQkXUz3duHvbPok3wCOQN30vnLrRwMn-q1-tY2MOOA113xhEPi4k4GY-Hxs_u8CVCE9lMZXNFkKY74AZRirGrj01-_De_R_Z0h9-59r8C7-fGmp3LwbKxfYVnFgKKSuKYvbJPj8ORY/s320/P9240011+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" /></a> We will have to see if it will be necessary to get a new engine to the tune of $10,000. We sure hope not.<br /><br />Yesterday, Friday Sept. 25 was Culture Day in Majuro, Marshall Islands. We were there with a booth representing the Mieco Beach Yacht Club selling memberships, flags, caps and T-shirts. It was a fun despite the rain. There were volley ball games, tug-of-war competitions between the different schools, both boys and girls, lots of singing, dancing, crafts and food.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_aOmmyaVt93AfgyGVioaaEf_3YDi_wpgBEYWHaVUGJbbDrlhePW_5_nJaJWuy8Ub-xbb0ynEAZmptKf15uLJVC2yllu3BETtVATSjDxmB18Jd80-bZQVfAo1cI0oHq7zJ72ROrQ-WHnA/s1600-h/P9240003+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="MARGIN: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; WIDTH: 267px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 200px; CURSOR: pointer" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5385534560800626722" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_aOmmyaVt93AfgyGVioaaEf_3YDi_wpgBEYWHaVUGJbbDrlhePW_5_nJaJWuy8Ub-xbb0ynEAZmptKf15uLJVC2yllu3BETtVATSjDxmB18Jd80-bZQVfAo1cI0oHq7zJ72ROrQ-WHnA/s320/P9240003+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" /></a><br />We have received four boxes of school supplies so far with promise of more to come.<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcuJWV89sE1ffcLbg4tnK8lTfoWcgRbDAz1hdE-IybUS6KMh3BReVqlJKqvsFko9z49wehEydzucY9ZfH6bzsHVzUgIA-ZRP8RuaLZUJOjdqkY76ZlnIjKTAyCs1n8oGjFb2irKIwLQP0/s1600-h/P9240002+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="MARGIN: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; WIDTH: 150px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 200px; CURSOR: pointer" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5385534552641285570" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcuJWV89sE1ffcLbg4tnK8lTfoWcgRbDAz1hdE-IybUS6KMh3BReVqlJKqvsFko9z49wehEydzucY9ZfH6bzsHVzUgIA-ZRP8RuaLZUJOjdqkY76ZlnIjKTAyCs1n8oGjFb2irKIwLQP0/s320/P9240002+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" /></a> We will sort through the things and try to fill the wish lists of teachers in the outer atolls. All you that have contributed, thank you so much. Pictures will be taken as we hand things out and I will post them on the Blog.<br /><br />To those of you we heard from that have boats in San Carlos, MX and have sustained damage, we <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxN1NeVTVuTHTx5iONV_g1e10n3033uNxGTKp4l96B6Qkkvy0WUqc3lL11iftezQ6f0jvfnGOB-2YEt5RxI_YDyY3SCnz_Q-PSPiMNi7mIfYdAkar7atQW5doli2_BNoDxW8Ig8BLP4Ec/s1600-h/P9240010+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="MARGIN: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; WIDTH: 267px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 200px; CURSOR: pointer" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5385532108084682994" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxN1NeVTVuTHTx5iONV_g1e10n3033uNxGTKp4l96B6Qkkvy0WUqc3lL11iftezQ6f0jvfnGOB-2YEt5RxI_YDyY3SCnz_Q-PSPiMNi7mIfYdAkar7atQW5doli2_BNoDxW8Ig8BLP4Ec/s320/P9240010+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" /></a>are indeed sorry to hear and hope that the damage is minimal.<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxN1NeVTVuTHTx5iONV_g1e10n3033uNxGTKp4l96B6Qkkvy0WUqc3lL11iftezQ6f0jvfnGOB-2YEt5RxI_YDyY3SCnz_Q-PSPiMNi7mIfYdAkar7atQW5doli2_BNoDxW8Ig8BLP4Ec/s1600-h/P9240010+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"></a><input id="gwProxy" type="hidden"><input id="jsProxy" onclick="jsCall();" type="hidden"> <div id="refHTML"></div>About John and Lindahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09804781596879702975noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-919823168408227838.post-20472552405202037132009-09-14T09:28:00.005+12:002009-11-08T10:40:08.150+12:00Back to Majuro, Marshall IslandsLinda came to the states the end of June to visit with family and friends. Matt and Judy Johnston, formerly of the boat ELSEWHERE, picked her up from the airport and she visited with them for a few days before heading up to OR to visit friends, Tom & Eileen Riordan and then on to WA to visit with brother Terry, wife Gerry, and their son and his family.<br /><br />She then returned to the Bay Area where the next day her daughter Trish and grandkids J.D. and Jamie arrived. In a few days the other daughter, Susan and her girls Kaytlin, Stefanie and Kassidy arrived for a visit also. We had four wonderful days of exploring San Francisco and area complete with a dip in the freezing cold ocean. This was a must for the older girls as they live in ID and never get to see, much less go into the ocean. The visit was way to short and everyone had a great time. J.D. and Jamie stayed with Linda on her friends Kathy and Charles Hodgekins boat, MISCHIEF along with Jane Beal and her son Dylan. Dad Dwight also came for a visit for the last week of the kids sailing lessons. We all had a great time and the kids learned about sailing, racing and living on a boat. There were lots of activities after sailing lessons and never a dull moment!<br /><br />After the three weeks of sailing lessons, Linda, J.D. and Jamie flew to Dallas, TX where the kids live with their parents who were anxiously awaiting their return. It was much harder for Mom and Dad to have the kids away from home than it was for the kids!<br /><br />The time flew by in TX and soon Linda was heading for IL on Amtrak. She visited with and aunt and her family, cousins and college friends. The next stop was Wonder Lake, IL where she attended the 50th Year Reunion of the first ski show in which she performed back in 1959. It was great fun talking over memories of stunts tried-some failed and there were some successes. This ski club has risen to be the well known Wonder Lake Ski Team. Check out their website at http://www.wonderlakeskiteam.org. They are amazing!<br /><br />Soon it was time to head back to CA to meet up with John who had stayed in the Marshall Islands working on the boat until August and then flew to CA to visit with his family. We are now in the midst of packing up all the boat parts and miscellaneous items and will be flying out on Tuesday, September 15 for another season in the Pacific. Linda promises to try to keep this blog up and we always appreciate your emails. Linda & John <input id="gwProxy" type="hidden"><input id="jsProxy" onclick="jsCall();" type="hidden"> <div id="refHTML"></div>About John and Lindahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09804781596879702975noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-919823168408227838.post-76916959458567734562009-05-31T10:54:00.021+12:002009-11-08T10:46:36.620+12:00HAWKEYE HAPPENINGS, May, 2009HAWKEYE HAPPENINGS, May, 2009<br /><br />The last newsletter was from Savusavu, Fiji, so we’ll continue from there.<br /><br />Cyclone season starts on Nov 1 in the South Pacific, and we planned to avoid the season by sailing north to Majuro, Republic of Marshall Islands. We were anxious to get underway as it was now well past that date. We had been waiting to hear if the troubled country of Fiji, which was taken over by a military coup (the fourth coup in twenty years) in Dec, 06, would change its’ ruling once again and allow boats to stay for a longer period of time. The word was that they were going to extend the time to 18 months but that never happened and we did not want to have to leave during the height of the cyclone season. It was time to go. Linda worked on provisioning for an extended trip and John worked on those the never-ending boat projects. HAWKEYE and crew prepared for going to sea with the strong possibility of rough weather as we would be not only be going through the South Pacific Convergence Zone (SPCZ), just south of the equator, but also the Inter Tropical Convergence Zone (ITCZ) on the north side of the equator. Both these zones are known for unsettled squally weather and are the result of NE and SE trade winds meeting in the vicinity of the equator.<br /><br />We left the mooring in Savusavu at 1:15 a.m. on November 12. Good weather was predicted and it was a beautiful sunrise and morning. A welcome current gave us a boost through the Somosomo Straits that afternoon as we sailed north to clear the island of Viti Levu. We were doing great until we ran into head winds and things got really black when we looked behind us back towards the Somosomo Straits; we were being “chased“ by sinister black skies containing great lightning flashes, squalls and heavy rain. Our concern was to get past all of the reefs and islands of Fiji and into open ocean waters. We finally accomplished this at 6 a.m. the following morning.<br /><br />The log book reads lumpy, rolling seas, reefed down as the boat was going way too fast for comfort. This was followed by beautiful sailing under a full moon, just about perfect! After 109 hours and 596 miles, we entered the lagoon at Funafuti, Tuvalu (formerly the Ellice Islands), anchored and got some much needed rest. The next morning we anchored off the wharf; it took us two days to finally get checked in. HAWKEYE was the only cruising boat in the whole of Tuvalu. We spent 11 days in Funafuti with a lot of time spent at the weather station looking at weather and getting to know the people there. This is NOT a tourist center!! There are no souvenirs to be had. We couldn’t even buy a sizable flag (it is maritime etiquette to fly the flag of the country being visited from beneath the starboard spreader).<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiS-DPSdeMsJhUmF0KEySGhJFTyLNzQXKhjOi5_cKJ0SFQgAv8XTL9posaekDU38JRrySdBSbg4VToOE296wbPeZUHjUJfT4dQfUTnbL66C-g4TwIsLITbf5sSbE7rb_iXZwvOi_39WAaQ/s1600-h/Checking+in+with+the+Weather+Station,+Tuvalu+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="MARGIN: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; WIDTH: 267px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 200px; CURSOR: pointer" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5379970335102918626" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiS-DPSdeMsJhUmF0KEySGhJFTyLNzQXKhjOi5_cKJ0SFQgAv8XTL9posaekDU38JRrySdBSbg4VToOE296wbPeZUHjUJfT4dQfUTnbL66C-g4TwIsLITbf5sSbE7rb_iXZwvOi_39WAaQ/s320/Checking+in+with+the+Weather+Station,+Tuvalu+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" /></a><br /><br />At the one and only hotel we had a meal and watched the employees dance to their native music. The food was pretty basic and was the first time we had pandanas fruit. This is very nutritious but doesn’t have much flavor. We managed to get some bananas after asking around at several homes (no charge). One home was a bakery where the lady made bread by hand all morning long. They use coconut oil to grease the pans so the bread has a different flavor. Their monetary system is the Australian $; being pre-warned, we had obtained some before leaving Fiji. Food was expensive as everything is shipped in. A cabbage was $10AU (about $7.50 US). We were pretty well stocked up but got a few fresh things.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXdhkRLP8ZtGt3wMD7YX8Thg11bKOCiNrvcSSEj-IVzC04l0fuyJCDhiESPSJd2Ws8XPg8Wph870zF0BP5UbIAE7LX-AlFm1MfE69JcP4hh8jr-38Q4L6RIjPM4C6IeMmPe-7oy8mF4BU/s1600-h/US+helmet+on+left+and+Japanese+helmets+on+right,+Tarawa+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="MARGIN: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; WIDTH: 267px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 200px; CURSOR: pointer" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5379972338848923730" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXdhkRLP8ZtGt3wMD7YX8Thg11bKOCiNrvcSSEj-IVzC04l0fuyJCDhiESPSJd2Ws8XPg8Wph870zF0BP5UbIAE7LX-AlFm1MfE69JcP4hh8jr-38Q4L6RIjPM4C6IeMmPe-7oy8mF4BU/s320/US+helmet+on+left+and+Japanese+helmets+on+right,+Tarawa+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" /></a><br />Most people in Funafuti get around by motor scooter and we rented one from the hotel for $10 AU per 24 hr period. We were able to cover the atoll from one end to the other in about 45 minutes of sightseeing but rented it for 2 days anyway. There are very few automobiles on the atoll. The US built an airstrip there during WWII and the airstrip is used for walking, riding scooters and bikes, playing games, and meeting to gossip. The airport is a very tiny building and the fire department sounds a siren whenever a plane is approaching or leaving, which isn’t very often-maybe once a week. This tiny country covers less than 10 square miles of land but has a population of approximately 15,000 people of which about ½ live in Funafuti.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_0s9pcH5MZLDigcnFnkWybBuezw33NF-Hj58rnqzwAv8_ab9bdD3uIf2VUQMKYmxRzJLKuJRk9qvdAAvPmQvADSRywKtGPisuTd1gxIm7rwauY2zbyizDACDxQEpJ61hLHzKxMnMt1SI/s1600-h/Sea+snake,+Tarawa+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="MARGIN: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; WIDTH: 190px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 200px; CURSOR: pointer" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5379971902137501970" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_0s9pcH5MZLDigcnFnkWybBuezw33NF-Hj58rnqzwAv8_ab9bdD3uIf2VUQMKYmxRzJLKuJRk9qvdAAvPmQvADSRywKtGPisuTd1gxIm7rwauY2zbyizDACDxQEpJ61hLHzKxMnMt1SI/s320/Sea+snake,+Tarawa+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVRu5YpaU94z7sjeXjaPVhtRYn_DwmDLCALne47mFkNYmPZ6i62_6w3Zct0mNvxhOCFzYCtQ6yhMLZClDQisGFbIdyXBf-1IFYPo4czAspPd9kKDDojjWGldwPHNiihrXg41Ij8w1omnA/s1600-h/Typical+Kiribati+dress+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="MARGIN: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; WIDTH: 150px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 200px; CURSOR: pointer" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5379972322377793010" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVRu5YpaU94z7sjeXjaPVhtRYn_DwmDLCALne47mFkNYmPZ6i62_6w3Zct0mNvxhOCFzYCtQ6yhMLZClDQisGFbIdyXBf-1IFYPo4czAspPd9kKDDojjWGldwPHNiihrXg41Ij8w1omnA/s320/Typical+Kiribati+dress+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" /></a><br />If you were not a believer in the effects of global warming, a trip to Tuvalu would make you a believer. We saw pictures in the weather station, which is right by the airstrip, of the times when they haveshigh tides and strong winds. The water covered the air strip and up to the door of the weather station! It is predicted that in 50 years, Tuvalu will no longer be above water. Upon finishing their education, children are encouraged to go to other countries to settle as all will have to leave soon. We enjoyed our stay but were anxious to get underway as we still had a lot of ocean to cover to get us safely to the north of the cyclone season area.<br /><br />November 26 we departed Funafuti with the intention of going straight to Majuro, Republic of Marshall Islands (RMI). We decided to employ a professional weather service as we were approaching the convergence zones and there could be nasty weather ahead with very little warning. The weather was pretty good and we were making good time on a great course for Majuro, allowing for the westerly-setting Equatorial Current. On Dec 1 at 6:30 a.m. we rece<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiY8YsmuDRtYGc2fXxt7fsh72E1nZkhQf4i-P8upkozx_abFFWp2z4BQeqI8Xr2e1y7wWxGtMSqdKEW0o810JYuNP3t_2OwiX9mK3ytruetB4Yzl9QOfbt5iMGe8IjwUhwcnJsXt6nNIs8/s1600-h/Downed+Japanese+Plane+in+Butaritari+Lagoon+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="MARGIN: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; WIDTH: 267px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 200px; CURSOR: pointer" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5379970768716704514" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiY8YsmuDRtYGc2fXxt7fsh72E1nZkhQf4i-P8upkozx_abFFWp2z4BQeqI8Xr2e1y7wWxGtMSqdKEW0o810JYuNP3t_2OwiX9mK3ytruetB4Yzl9QOfbt5iMGe8IjwUhwcnJsXt6nNIs8/s320/Downed+Japanese+Plane+in+Butaritari+Lagoon+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" /></a>ived <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGk3HRrt55goKJJSZQoAaEgb-ra3S2b5yfFvUJy5_FmATqTR04OOiZfHm1GzIiaGdDc-0MMkmcqPPcIW2mdwJqYY2wziPqxCQ81dwcV43zG-f53U9EH-XGZCUVbU8hTrKCrojqNjEo72o/s1600-h/Dancers+at+Festival.+Butaritari+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="MARGIN: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; WIDTH: 267px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 200px; CURSOR: pointer" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5379970763465401042" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGk3HRrt55goKJJSZQoAaEgb-ra3S2b5yfFvUJy5_FmATqTR04OOiZfHm1GzIiaGdDc-0MMkmcqPPcIW2mdwJqYY2wziPqxCQ81dwcV43zG-f53U9EH-XGZCUVbU8hTrKCrojqNjEo72o/s320/Dancers+at+Festival.+Butaritari+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" /></a>an email from Commander, our weather service, recommending we divert to Tarawa, Kiribati (pronounced Kiribass) to avoid heavy convection i.e., bad weather, en-route to Majuro (friends heading to Majuro from Vanuatu decided to press on and ran into the nasty weather predicted, causing damage to their rig). We were quite happy to divert since we had heard good reports of Tarawa from other cruisers and it was a good excuse to visit. We now had to slow way down, to avoid arriving at the pass into Tarawa at night. This proved to be quite difficult since we had a west-setting current of 2 knots pushing us along. So, reefed way down, we sailed south, tracked south-west, and arrived at Tarawa, Kiribati on Dec 2 mid-day. We had sailed 815 miles from Tuvalu to Kiribati.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh84BoUIzJuugUzLB26nUCbvub-1PPhC-hjmIvz9GPdl18YmljufSRR5Yk9pOHOewfqaDALIK6T8vDJdDjGNLWGNSw5eZJSEKUPhKwhI_CDIPGi5vjWvWEJxs5O07Jv1Yx2La1El18z8DA/s1600-h/Our+rented+motorscooter,+Butaritari+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="MARGIN: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; WIDTH: 267px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 200px; CURSOR: pointer" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5379971516647183426" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh84BoUIzJuugUzLB26nUCbvub-1PPhC-hjmIvz9GPdl18YmljufSRR5Yk9pOHOewfqaDALIK6T8vDJdDjGNLWGNSw5eZJSEKUPhKwhI_CDIPGi5vjWvWEJxs5O07Jv1Yx2La1El18z8DA/s320/Our+rented+motorscooter,+Butaritari+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" /></a><br />We spent a week in Tarawa seeing as much of the area as we could. The WW II tour was very interesting and very sad. During the 3-day U.S. invasion of the Japanese-held island of Tarawa in 1942, 8,000 died. Of the 5,000 Japanese defenders, only 17 survived. To this day, the beaches and reefs are home to countless rusting relics of planes and ships – including live shells, bombs and bullets.<br /><br />On a lighter note, the following paragraph taken from “THE SEX LIVES OF CANNIBALS, Adrift in the Equatorial Pacific”, by J. Maarten Troost, gives a great description of Kiribati:<br />“To picture Kiribati, imagine that the continental U.S. were to conveniently disappear leaving only Baltimore and a vast swath of very Blue Ocean in its place. Now chop up Baltimore into thirty-three pieces, place a neighborhood where Maine used to be, another where California once was, and so on until you have <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqgkOwyQVWgdlehfOGbSFPk9h4Tm4oylOikG74KCmKr7S71PNNoMSWq67oPq_s8tHKLb6_bvIG6rPn9HHtZTkOmv6IzLoZMGXnNUC4fYDkA3uBzNUQZsF__kQktj1X8IOx8fw3fZoLZWo/s1600-h/School+and+lagoon,+Butaritari+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="MARGIN: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; WIDTH: 267px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 200px; CURSOR: pointer" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5379971536682072498" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqgkOwyQVWgdlehfOGbSFPk9h4Tm4oylOikG74KCmKr7S71PNNoMSWq67oPq_s8tHKLb6_bvIG6rPn9HHtZTkOmv6IzLoZMGXnNUC4fYDkA3uBzNUQZsF__kQktj1X8IOx8fw3fZoLZWo/s320/School+and+lagoon,+Butaritari+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" /></a>thirty-three pieces of Baltimore dispersed in such a way so as to ensure that 32/33 of Baltimorians will never attend an Orioles game again. Now take away electricity, runny water, toilets, television, restaurants, buildings, and airplanes (except for two very old prop planes, tended by people who have no word for “maintenance”). Replace with thatch. Flatten all land into a uniform two feet above sea level. Toy with islands by melting polar ice caps. Add palm trees. Sprinkle with Hepatitis A, B, and C. Stir in Dengue fever and intestinal parasites. Take away doctors. Isolate and bake at a constant temperature of 100 degrees Fahrenheit. The result is the Republic <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg15KhKLUWm2reNFVvbDiXCKpk0d670yQOjXAKskfDn49zLUnnqotmYsN3fsufn-XGeRmTGDumbapLG3QH4RPR3TzWsvhLjso3Vq1TzUh0aajz3A7TSlgPB_R3aCet6Pgb537vNZ4i-CV4/s1600-h/Sleeping+hut+built+on+bunker,+Tarawa+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="MARGIN: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; WIDTH: 267px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 200px; CURSOR: pointer" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5379971913197317986" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg15KhKLUWm2reNFVvbDiXCKpk0d670yQOjXAKskfDn49zLUnnqotmYsN3fsufn-XGeRmTGDumbapLG3QH4RPR3TzWsvhLjso3Vq1TzUh0aajz3A7TSlgPB_R3aCet6Pgb537vNZ4i-CV4/s320/Sleeping+hut+built+on+bunker,+Tarawa+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" /></a>of Kiribati.”<br /><br />As is the case with most travel books, this description, although amusing, was highly colored and exaggerated. We greatly enjoyed our visit to Tarawa.<br /><br />We departed Tarawa on December 9. Although we had cleared out of Kiribati, we had received permission to visit the tiny atoll of Butaritari on our way north. We arrived December 10 and were warmly welcomed by the local villagers. We explored the island on rented scooters with our friends from the yacht RUBICON, Matt and <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDWahoSYHt6FbZQwA6iF_8QuOJ5ZQB01fRa2_U8Z6diA8MHDXxO2xXK-3ZVUESU04riEBsP7owAY1Al3O8v7oxvl2fS1wpQMpjmllIpMH60xp5IFHhzp6z6X8tJiSJ84xPITZ0PP0NGks/s1600-h/Downed+Japanese+Zero,+Ollick,+Maloelap,+MI+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="MARGIN: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; WIDTH: 150px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 200px; CURSOR: pointer" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5379970777185768018" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDWahoSYHt6FbZQwA6iF_8QuOJ5ZQB01fRa2_U8Z6diA8MHDXxO2xXK-3ZVUESU04riEBsP7owAY1Al3O8v7oxvl2fS1wpQMpjmllIpMH60xp5IFHhzp6z6X8tJiSJ84xPITZ0PP0NGks/s320/Downed+Japanese+Zero,+Ollick,+Maloelap,+MI+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" /></a>Elizabeth. Later, we were invited to a c<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7NnJfAYQsXHYkLkKkeDGHXc6i8zFQ28o17Txy0JJOizvFSu3_MmpOKJH6LQiXq5vJ139sI3hQpL_UuL6YBUwIJEOhFvxNDl4H5WTFXHFudZqyNecEbS-7aFmW6DwyBg5LpPJjccTo3rg/s1600-h/Line+of+live+bombs,Tarawa+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="MARGIN: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; WIDTH: 156px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 200px; CURSOR: pointer" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5379971122482834386" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7NnJfAYQsXHYkLkKkeDGHXc6i8zFQ28o17Txy0JJOizvFSu3_MmpOKJH6LQiXq5vJ139sI3hQpL_UuL6YBUwIJEOhFvxNDl4H5WTFXHFudZqyNecEbS-7aFmW6DwyBg5LpPJjccTo3rg/s320/Line+of+live+bombs,Tarawa+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" /></a>elebration feast welcoming the local athletes back home from the annual games in Tarawa. It was a wonderful experience to get the flavor of the outer atoll life which is quite different for Tarawa.<br /><br />With a good weather window forecast, we finally set sail for Majuro on Dec 16. Once again, we went too fast and ended up hove-to in the lee of Arno Atoll for a few hours so as to arrive at the pass into Majuro lagoon in daylight. We arrived Dec 19, just in time for the Xmas parties. Our total sail from Savusavu to Majuro was approximately 1800 miles but a much harder trip than out 2800 across the South Pacific.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDO9ui18AhAwL9ynHpUtSXsE_C6no6BCQedauiNgzq4CV-WF7jD6lS6sNxTtNtF1SXXDAxekmuopIps8PCRSX9k1jjOAUroRIIaFN-nz-R8vazRXF2OsDbBmt1op9DWT1xyYt6plKsV_M/s1600-h/Bullets+and+shells+found+on+reef,+Taroa,+Maloelap,+MI+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="MARGIN: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; WIDTH: 267px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 200px; CURSOR: pointer" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5379970324896700386" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDO9ui18AhAwL9ynHpUtSXsE_C6no6BCQedauiNgzq4CV-WF7jD6lS6sNxTtNtF1SXXDAxekmuopIps8PCRSX9k1jjOAUroRIIaFN-nz-R8vazRXF2OsDbBmt1op9DWT1xyYt6plKsV_M/s320/Bullets+and+shells+found+on+reef,+Taroa,+Maloelap,+MI+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" /></a>Although the Republic of Marshall Islands (RMI) is now an independent country, it maintains close ties with the USA. It was a pleasant surprise to find the green-back was the local currency; even better, Majuro boasts a US style supermarket, with many US brands available. RMI even has its own US zip-code (96960) with sometimes fast, cheap priority mail courtesy of the USPS.<br /><br />Thanks to the local ex-pats, the Mieco Beach Yacht Club, and local businesses, Majuro is actually host to a series of yacht races during the winter and spring months! Generous prizes are offered by local businesses, with first prize being a 55 gallon drum of diesel fuel. <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4YouPELuVYPQvoNLQ3MHM2l2U3pT2D6KrLa-jTunzWG8kGEoTcnyRrfuBnJPex_2spIt0Tq7raDroa9-JnZHT_yqXrpWf-XyhHUV41KBW0fRcSndgdtCfIT-P-mKeCBLk2j6i5eUg1SY/s1600-h/Bombed+plane,+Taroa,+Maloelap,+MI+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="MARGIN: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; WIDTH: 267px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 200px; CURSOR: pointer" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5379970320098664386" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4YouPELuVYPQvoNLQ3MHM2l2U3pT2D6KrLa-jTunzWG8kGEoTcnyRrfuBnJPex_2spIt0Tq7raDroa9-JnZHT_yqXrpWf-XyhHUV41KBW0fRcSndgdtCfIT-P-mKeCBLk2j6i5eUg1SY/s320/Bombed+plane,+Taroa,+Maloelap,+MI+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDdejJ3mes-HfoVfP6IKI2EDPn5dDFGOTtmIpinZW2xHoQkoWxEqZituuy0Ohz8HkF3YBI2SAMHORjtXjGfUVrx4yU-5C0a2-I1pJmZotOmEshlbxvgGgUVKxj54obYjTWJm0wRlzq5c4/s1600-h/The+fleet+with+Hawkeye+in+the+lead,+race+in+Majuro,+MI+%5B320x200%5D.jpg"><img style="MARGIN: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; WIDTH: 267px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 200px; CURSOR: pointer" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5379971936270647394" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDdejJ3mes-HfoVfP6IKI2EDPn5dDFGOTtmIpinZW2xHoQkoWxEqZituuy0Ohz8HkF3YBI2SAMHORjtXjGfUVrx4yU-5C0a2-I1pJmZotOmEshlbxvgGgUVKxj54obYjTWJm0wRlzq5c4/s320/The+fleet+with+Hawkeye+in+the+lead,+race+in+Majuro,+MI+%5B320x200%5D.jpg" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAzMm_PioESueA4nH6dnEbJ-rV-MK6g2OcKmq6RU1et5-swDzxMQT4Q0_ARLJaNf8KDFle3bAJSF8-CTKW0R_SN8VEOrsCKtBNwzM4m3dvdVLuwsCTl6wNkbeANNWiUZGFnbgk6q1oGFs/s1600-h/Snowflake+Eel,+MI+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="MARGIN: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; WIDTH: 200px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 200px; CURSOR: pointer" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5379971922731280642" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAzMm_PioESueA4nH6dnEbJ-rV-MK6g2OcKmq6RU1et5-swDzxMQT4Q0_ARLJaNf8KDFle3bAJSF8-CTKW0R_SN8VEOrsCKtBNwzM4m3dvdVLuwsCTl6wNkbeANNWiUZGFnbgk6q1oGFs/s320/Snowflake+Eel,+MI+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyfY6k4AcC5VkaWhlTCB5Ahuze59YxaRfZugUuDfNmZUJ9T7YucWd3Cn_ScjKGqTwXu2buu5cd3aI108_3yrckTNnYxQ1mW3EZ7bRSZliKMXiOyaIBIoEGJZRfhTg0zu-j5i5mNM1unSo/s1600-h/Shark+around+wreck,+Taroa,+Maloelap,+MI+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="MARGIN: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; WIDTH: 267px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 200px; CURSOR: pointer" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5379971908231291842" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyfY6k4AcC5VkaWhlTCB5Ahuze59YxaRfZugUuDfNmZUJ9T7YucWd3Cn_ScjKGqTwXu2buu5cd3aI108_3yrckTNnYxQ1mW3EZ7bRSZliKMXiOyaIBIoEGJZRfhTg0zu-j5i5mNM1unSo/s320/Shark+around+wreck,+Taroa,+Maloelap,+MI+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" /></a>Interestingly, you don’t have to win the race to <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjaUaWYPaFnT2F2C4kKOah3_zb4gFJPXl11a569GqpNiNGovGqdLuQeENBtl1UCzHse0qZcHcnbMGDXnIk-DejMQDs5GduT0MK1SOkIN4YrVTQezLDx0GQWdssvKt0s-kPr2JYZxSeFHo/s1600-h/Fermented+Breadfruit+in+the+making+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="MARGIN: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; WIDTH: 267px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 200px; CURSOR: pointer" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5379970786030228978" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjaUaWYPaFnT2F2C4kKOah3_zb4gFJPXl11a569GqpNiNGovGqdLuQeENBtl1UCzHse0qZcHcnbMGDXnIk-DejMQDs5GduT0MK1SOkIN4YrVTQezLDx0GQWdssvKt0s-kPr2JYZxSeFHo/s320/Fermented+Breadfruit+in+the+making+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" /></a>get a prize. Every boat finishing the race gets to draw a ticket out of a hat; that way, even the last boat to finish has the chance of winning the first prize. With over twenty visiting yachts, <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDUpD7wcxlJTlgeZBDIswona8OMlMITjYV5Igq_ThGWG_vNzPuKXZWrOozFcqNqubOsenfqTq7AJQkHNHVZAmvmFoF5nGJgCgE3LwLeCHJ9U-7ng0ZMQ10ikbhSs5wI7e2FL7BPXPf5e0/s1600-h/Meeting+House+Butaritari+Lagoon+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="MARGIN: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; WIDTH: 267px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 200px; CURSOR: pointer" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5379971508679468898" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDUpD7wcxlJTlgeZBDIswona8OMlMITjYV5Igq_ThGWG_vNzPuKXZWrOozFcqNqubOsenfqTq7AJQkHNHVZAmvmFoF5nGJgCgE3LwLeCHJ9U-7ng0ZMQ10ikbhSs5wI7e2FL7BPXPf5e0/s320/Meeting+House+Butaritari+Lagoon+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" /></a>the first race was held on the first Sunday of December, with 10 boats on the starting line. The fleet included everything from a local Marshallese outrigger sailing canoe, a trimaran and monohulls up to 60’. It sure makes handicapping a challenge!<br /><br />Unfortunately, Hawkeye was still bashing her way north to Majuro and so missed the first race in December. Subsequent races included steering our triple-reefed “houses” around anchored ships and buoys in squally conditions with winds up to 30 knots. After taking 5th place in the second race, due to a broken halyard block at the masthead, which prevented us from raising or lowering our mainsail, HAWKEYE won the next 3 races in a row. As is so often the case,<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5PdZ8nwRzZhJuwD6UjEYWgZpMwSkPb2uMZmxq7sasK6HuDSsq6VigekvCGHgd6sqUNv9WaX2wUY_IAzmAIEKvurtrr5kVjW4BPTJDWUj-eH4T85py00kw1qlTVgtQP69XKAVjKsDlZIQ/s1600-h/Pipefish+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="MARGIN: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; WIDTH: 281px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 200px; CURSOR: pointer" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5379971521283148898" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5PdZ8nwRzZhJuwD6UjEYWgZpMwSkPb2uMZmxq7sasK6HuDSsq6VigekvCGHgd6sqUNv9WaX2wUY_IAzmAIEKvurtrr5kVjW4BPTJDWUj-eH4T85py00kw1qlTVgtQP69XKAVjKsDlZIQ/s320/Pipefish+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" /></a> we were “rewarded” <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1-6d3nbHpV5V6xf1lf6vjNtzsm2Jfq2lL97eB1hkU7_abiuI_Dw_96fA0B1MSFTj5OeZAj9fPdlgVsa7cB3RuRo9fY1vbmqm1Hv28SwvHup1oBkbzoFERG2M93a0KFybP6WtU6b0HE4E/s1600-h/Reef+at+Enimanet+Anchorage,+MI+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="MARGIN: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; WIDTH: 267px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 200px; CURSOR: pointer" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5379971529930120514" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1-6d3nbHpV5V6xf1lf6vjNtzsm2Jfq2lL97eB1hkU7_abiuI_Dw_96fA0B1MSFTj5OeZAj9fPdlgVsa7cB3RuRo9fY1vbmqm1Hv28SwvHup1oBkbzoFERG2M93a0KFybP6WtU6b0HE4E/s320/Reef+at+Enimanet+Anchorage,+MI+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" /></a>by John being elected vice-commodore of the yacht club and director of racing for next season. Sometimes, it pays to keep a low profile!<br /><br />April 14th is the anniversary of the liberation of Aur Atoll from the Japanese back in 1945. The mayor of Aur had previously invited visiting yachts in Majuro to join the islanders for a big celebration, and eight yachts departed<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwPAtngzPfxUoqFZT4NBXjoCROl3TgMk5ndnxpx_h6uiPt5VuFiGktvXWMSrZ697BmkHvs8bc3qnwrj-feJZCPplw5MeeCAS-RMGdRPjT-XIgz1ErW45yfArmuncKN0F2djrjWiNTMgwU/s1600-h/Linda+teaching+finger+weaving,+MI+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="MARGIN: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; WIDTH: 267px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 200px; CURSOR: pointer" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5379971120977238450" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwPAtngzPfxUoqFZT4NBXjoCROl3TgMk5ndnxpx_h6uiPt5VuFiGktvXWMSrZ697BmkHvs8bc3qnwrj-feJZCPplw5MeeCAS-RMGdRPjT-XIgz1ErW45yfArmuncKN0F2djrjWiNTMgwU/s320/Linda+teaching+finger+weaving,+MI+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8EFcffXc8nD3GpGMaSoQOw8Ai7IfY3Gx2AO68hGK2hzfvfpiREnzWwK7j-zmxHLpKRoBgfOb3Ma-_AWJmVMt9yKMYD_2AthyphenhyphenfYgEOwpMlQ9N5av7l3FFfQNbuyv2Lj6G2EXUZ5c3MNY0/s1600-h/Liberation+Day+Feast,+Aur,+Aur,+MI+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="MARGIN: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; WIDTH: 267px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 200px; CURSOR: pointer" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5379971111904727506" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8EFcffXc8nD3GpGMaSoQOw8Ai7IfY3Gx2AO68hGK2hzfvfpiREnzWwK7j-zmxHLpKRoBgfOb3Ma-_AWJmVMt9yKMYD_2AthyphenhyphenfYgEOwpMlQ9N5av7l3FFfQNbuyv2Lj6G2EXUZ5c3MNY0/s320/Liberation+Day+Feast,+Aur,+Aur,+MI+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" /></a> Majuro lagoon for the overnight trip north to Aur. As usual, it is strongly recommended to arrive at the pass into the lagoon during daylight hours, preferable with the sun fairly high and behind you. That way, it is much easier to see the coral reefs each side of the narrow pass. With some trepidation, recalling that our friends Matt & Judy aboard the Cabo Rico 38 ELSEWHERE lost their boat on this same reef last summer, we entered the lagoon without any problem.<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-ENBWQGYxF21iAKnCMa4m6fUdUrU9sxKmmhYvc7bPP4TPeYY9ET-7YfF4Uxm4dXaQKLHK_HOHrdL6kzd5kGP3LL7iasomvsRCCgs_aALl_BVvCdnEQQnXLg0Csrq0Yx31AINM_FjwRBQ/s1600-h/Hawkeye+and+dinghy+over+sunken+Japanese+ship,+Ollick,+Maloelap,+MI+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="MARGIN: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; WIDTH: 267px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 200px; CURSOR: pointer" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5379971104114099442" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-ENBWQGYxF21iAKnCMa4m6fUdUrU9sxKmmhYvc7bPP4TPeYY9ET-7YfF4Uxm4dXaQKLHK_HOHrdL6kzd5kGP3LL7iasomvsRCCgs_aALl_BVvCdnEQQnXLg0Csrq0Yx31AINM_FjwRBQ/s320/Hawkeye+and+dinghy+over+sunken+Japanese+ship,+Ollick,+Maloelap,+MI+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCpJnDSlqoP76PWzvtFSwFPWtsYehS_4BYea6gwyStgOvkjrBHIDqiEz4rD_EGcEhsqrpAndGEZebHqF5vH3M3PG-nigt5WkHdmx19r61cepGhF64xi2LV_Var5O8wOTWAUJ7Qm0-paaQ/s1600-h/Hawkeye+anchored+near+bombed+ship,+Taroa,+Maloelap+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="MARGIN: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; WIDTH: 267px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 200px; CURSOR: pointer" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5379971098041243074" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCpJnDSlqoP76PWzvtFSwFPWtsYehS_4BYea6gwyStgOvkjrBHIDqiEz4rD_EGcEhsqrpAndGEZebHqF5vH3M3PG-nigt5WkHdmx19r61cepGhF64xi2LV_Var5O8wOTWAUJ7Qm0-paaQ/s320/Hawkeye+anchored+near+bombed+ship,+Taroa,+Maloelap+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5p1qotpxhdtuJbXl6QnP3b50bdDvd7mqZBA-mlGZyXIaXoxZKqJnD0ig3YtINwVcqgjKYuoHmzJTq5silRRLy9u4-Ef6LQb6wjaKknpo54sqrs2MbS1IuHM-iJvhMPC_Lf-cCEKS4A9o/s1600-h/Gun+on+sunden+ship,+Ollick,+Maloelap,+MI+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="MARGIN: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; WIDTH: 267px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 200px; CURSOR: pointer" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5379970790309867874" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5p1qotpxhdtuJbXl6QnP3b50bdDvd7mqZBA-mlGZyXIaXoxZKqJnD0ig3YtINwVcqgjKYuoHmzJTq5silRRLy9u4-Ef6LQb6wjaKknpo54sqrs2MbS1IuHM-iJvhMPC_Lf-cCEKS4A9o/s320/Gun+on+sunden+ship,+Ollick,+Maloelap,+MI+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" /></a><br /><br />The party was a great success, with the visiting yachties treated as honored guests. Games included - what else? - baseball, and lots of races for the boys and girls. The cruisers lost the tug-of-war to the local team; never underestimate the pulling power of the local ladies! The feast provided by the ladies was delicious and more than ample. Some of the cruising ladies, including Linda, worked with the many children and women teaching them beading. We went through lots of beads and they didn’t want to quit. We were rewarded with several of their home made crafts made from pandanas. A fun and bonding experience we will not soon forget. On a sad note, it was noticed that there are lots of scars on those little arms and legs from staph infections and several people were observed with vision problems due to conjunctivitis not treated. The people<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_89jjX2Fd787FhBjUFmjMg27NeHATpwfXDxUlDK-WZ4ZmEk_oNfpmJbzMzaoODA6UD30udfvwdHlro64zX-2HkSaxt2Br00igwyK4-81seUHUe1xc_ojhhfzzdnwWBbTgjqMw40E0xe8/s1600-h/Crown+of+Thorns+Starfish+eridication,+Tabol,+Aur,+MI+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="MARGIN: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; WIDTH: 267px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 200px; CURSOR: pointer" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5379970343069008242" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_89jjX2Fd787FhBjUFmjMg27NeHATpwfXDxUlDK-WZ4ZmEk_oNfpmJbzMzaoODA6UD30udfvwdHlro64zX-2HkSaxt2Br00igwyK4-81seUHUe1xc_ojhhfzzdnwWBbTgjqMw40E0xe8/s320/Crown+of+Thorns+Starfish+eridication,+Tabol,+Aur,+MI+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" /></a> have access to medical supplies but don’t seem to want to be treated per the local World Teach teachers. Head lice are prevalent but as there is no dirt just coral and they spend a lot of time swimming in the lagoon, they are quite clean. The coral dust causes lung problems so it is common to hear coughing.<br /><br />After a few days enjoying the hospitality of the people of Aur, boats started returning to Majuro or on to other countries. HAWKEYE and the Hylas 49 CREOLA headed north to the next atoll in the island chain, M<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6GLDAENJQ9kOPKl3zAUEwYMJRUQsR_84-R_qsDLhvIlGXjzEgFvt2UA1zCfy8g7nw7M3DvyB6JO4koLyovOojLoPCwyQ5HEVJNRa_a4Gh8hD1rjWhqu21yNwwWNjrUWmcRnnml64yeSw/s1600-h/Beading+with+the+kids+and+moms,+Tabol,+Aur,+MI+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="MARGIN: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; WIDTH: 267px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 200px; CURSOR: pointer" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5379970313581011746" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6GLDAENJQ9kOPKl3zAUEwYMJRUQsR_84-R_qsDLhvIlGXjzEgFvt2UA1zCfy8g7nw7M3DvyB6JO4koLyovOojLoPCwyQ5HEVJNRa_a4Gh8hD1rjWhqu21yNwwWNjrUWmcRnnml64yeSw/s320/Beading+with+the+kids+and+moms,+Tabol,+Aur,+MI+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" /></a>aloelap. Again, this atoll was the scene of ferocious fighting between the entrenched Japanese and the US forces. At one island anchorage, Ollot, we anchored near the submerged wrecks of two Japanese ships and discovered the remains of several Japanese Zero fighter planes. Unfortunately, the weather changed late in the day, with the wind switching to the south-west instead of the normal NE direction of the trade winds. As we swung on our anchor, the chain wrapped around a coral head (“bommie”) and around the stern of one of the ships! Luckily, our friends from CREOLA and Linda still had their tanks on after a scuba dive and were able to clear our chain. We promptly raised anchor and beat a hasty <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSewdU1iwA0yoLR966_5nCmoaf-0nResKwtWo8qN4e-DDRwcSEW_fBrVdel-q4wbqBe8269zf9ZG-mfJ-91gB8nvVQiWqTt3wNywaDNGE32KTZTZg8aSsZRQWrZrnYpsu2C_44Yza2_LI/s1600-h/Woman+making+donuts,+Irick,+Maloelap,+MI+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="MARGIN: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; WIDTH: 267px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 200px; CURSOR: pointer" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5379972344178622306" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSewdU1iwA0yoLR966_5nCmoaf-0nResKwtWo8qN4e-DDRwcSEW_fBrVdel-q4wbqBe8269zf9ZG-mfJ-91gB8nvVQiWqTt3wNywaDNGE32KTZTZg8aSsZRQWrZrnYpsu2C_44Yza2_LI/s320/Woman+making+donuts,+Irick,+Maloelap,+MI+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" /></a>retreat to a safer anchorage.<br /><br />We are now back in Majuro, enjoying the Wi-Fi internet access from the boat, the restaurants and shopping ashore. We are planning our annual trip to the USA to visit family and friends and will be gone July through mid September. Please send your news; if you would prefer not to receive our newsletter, just let us know. You won’t hurt our feelings!<br /><br />Best wishes to you all for a great summer.<br /><br />John & Linda.<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAVVfV0HB_cWsR-OINi8pqoK_SwiNI8ARBLQW2_J0XxaMq_CcPzSnLwVTiSNF2x5uXEWW8RT-9M5kV78v2wACVJKKTMx_pkguxuRxConk_1LjowRzKFikljFoCWNyLhdTWyiwDRtTFdIk/s1600-h/Typical+Sailing+canoe,+MI+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="MARGIN: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; WIDTH: 267px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 200px; CURSOR: pointer" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5379972329926627474" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAVVfV0HB_cWsR-OINi8pqoK_SwiNI8ARBLQW2_J0XxaMq_CcPzSnLwVTiSNF2x5uXEWW8RT-9M5kV78v2wACVJKKTMx_pkguxuRxConk_1LjowRzKFikljFoCWNyLhdTWyiwDRtTFdIk/s320/Typical+Sailing+canoe,+MI+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAVVfV0HB_cWsR-OINi8pqoK_SwiNI8ARBLQW2_J0XxaMq_CcPzSnLwVTiSNF2x5uXEWW8RT-9M5kV78v2wACVJKKTMx_pkguxuRxConk_1LjowRzKFikljFoCWNyLhdTWyiwDRtTFdIk/s1600-h/Typical+Sailing+canoe,+MI+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"></a><input id="gwProxy" type="hidden"><input id="jsProxy" onclick="jsCall();" type="hidden"> <div id="refHTML"></div><input id="gwProxy" type="hidden"><input id="jsProxy" onclick="jsCall();" type="hidden"> <div id="refHTML"></div><input id="gwProxy" type="hidden"><input id="jsProxy" onclick="jsCall();" type="hidden"> <div id="refHTML"></div><input id="gwProxy" type="hidden"><input id="jsProxy" onclick="jsCall();" type="hidden"> <div id="refHTML"></div><input id="gwProxy" type="hidden"><input id="jsProxy" onclick="jsCall();" type="hidden"> <div id="refHTML"></div>About John and Lindahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09804781596879702975noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-919823168408227838.post-88535382811815810072008-10-31T14:55:00.001+12:002009-09-11T12:03:55.328+12:00HAWKEYE HAPPENINGS, October, 2008<a href="file:///E:/My%20Documents/NEWSLETTERS/08,%20Oct.wps"> HAWKEYE HAPPENINGS, October, 2008<br />Ni sa bula,<br />Our trips to the states all always looked forward to. We love visiting with family and friends. This year was no exception. The thing that was different this year was that John and his grandson, Frankie, went to Texas with Linda to visit Trish and her family. We all had a great time, especially Frankie!<br /><br />After much packing, unpacking and packing again with a break in between for Linda to have a day of kayaking with friends Georgie and Paula, we were off to return to HAWKEYE which was on a cyclone mooring in Savusavu, Figi. The three different airlines we flew, all had different requirements as far as number of bags and weight per bag. In the long run, it was well worth the time spent on the packing as we only had to pay an additional $20 USD on excess weight.<br /><br />When we arrived at the airport in Nadi, Fiji, we were concerned with getting through customs. There was a very long line and John went up to an official stating we had a connecting flight. The official asked what we had to declare and he said, “Nuts (we always bring back an assortment of nuts for baking and technically nuts and seeds are not allowed.).” The agent said to get our things and come over to him. He then proceeded to usher us passed everyone, including the other agents and we were out the door! We will remember this ploy in the future. Just so you know, we did have a connecting flight but it wasn’t for a couple of hours…..<br /><br />We had received word from other cruisers that the airport in Savusavu was closed as it was unsafe. Unsafe? They didn’t tell us that when we flew out three months before!! It seems the runway is too low and too short; mmmmmmm.<br /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifN083bdnj96PUiRBAuEFSEzqTC-eAOsWDA7z5P1qLcQEBcte8f59LI8HMSdbheX8lPwtISOJ_0egk9v9NzdKhWmIBizT4rkdavdmJYgE8ltNVQe58zRhLN6Ya6kKL5KQkplblFNZRq7E/s1600-h/Loading+Yaqona+to+the+bus+to+go+to+market+in+Labasa+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifN083bdnj96PUiRBAuEFSEzqTC-eAOsWDA7z5P1qLcQEBcte8f59LI8HMSdbheX8lPwtISOJ_0egk9v9NzdKhWmIBizT4rkdavdmJYgE8ltNVQe58zRhLN6Ya6kKL5KQkplblFNZRq7E/s320/Loading+Yaqona+to+the+bus+to+go+to+market+in+Labasa+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5375594202636018386" border="0" /></a><a href="file:///E:/My%20Documents/NEWSLETTERS/08,%20Oct.wps"><br />Our domestic flight was to Labasa pronounced Lambasa. The Fijians are great in putting in the sound of “m” in words but not the letter. From the airport, we were not looking forward to the bus into town and then a 3 hour bus ride over gravel roads through the mountains in an open </a><a href="file:///E:/My%20Documents/NEWSLETTERS/08,%20Oct.wps">bus (tarps roll down the sides if it rains) to Savusavu. Upon arriving at the airport in Labasa, Linda discovered a small air conditioned bus and inquired as to where it was going-Savusavu. </a><a href="file:///E:/My%20Documents/NEWSLETTERS/08,%20Oct.wps">Yes!! Can we get a ride? How much per person? And, I’ll be right back with one other person and our luggage. PLEASE DON’T LEAVE! After getting John and all our luggage, we got on our air conditioned bus for the small fee of $20 per person. The ride only took 2 hours and they gave us a nice lunch which turned out to be our dinner also. The bus had been hired by the Cousteau </a><a href="file:///E:/My%20Documents/NEWSLETTERS/08,%20Oct.wps">Resort to pick up a family of 4 and there was plenty of room for us. They delivered us to the marina and we were most thankful.<br /></a><a href="file:///E:/My%20Documents/NEWSLETTERS/08,%20Oct.wps"><br />The bad news was when we arrived back on board. We had paid for the boat to be looked after. HAWKEYE was supposed to be opened and aired out on a regular basis including removing any </a><a href="file:///E:/My%20Documents/NEWSLETTERS/08,%20Oct.wps">mildew down below. This was not done, however, and we spent the rest of the day and the next 2 days cleaning up the interior, removing all mildew and making her sparkling clean again. After unpacking, John started on the long list of repairs and addition of new things to be installed. This list is never fully completed as there is ALWAYS more to be added than removed no matter how much we try! John installed new steering chain and cable, a new autopilot, a new GPS, a propane sniffer and many repairs.</a><a href="file:///E:/My%20Documents/NEWSLETTERS/08,%20Oct.wps"><br /></a><a href="file:///E:/My%20Documents/NEWSLETTERS/08,%20Oct.wps"><br /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbadV5dkZH2c4j3Q5eprvve2pm-dY1nKzID5vp5pGMHBk_0dIf7MJgO5SiNGR5o15x9bEx9efbYXI6LuBXEUVTEeqWmkUDxQ_WMdjkLeTUimKoaW-fEEM6KkcUhpwXAjeVakeQxa1kPHY/s1600-h/Fiji+Soft+Coral+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbadV5dkZH2c4j3Q5eprvve2pm-dY1nKzID5vp5pGMHBk_0dIf7MJgO5SiNGR5o15x9bEx9efbYXI6LuBXEUVTEeqWmkUDxQ_WMdjkLeTUimKoaW-fEEM6KkcUhpwXAjeVakeQxa1kPHY/s320/Fiji+Soft+Coral+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5375593941130917138" border="0" /></a><a href="file:///E:/My%20Documents/NEWSLETTERS/08,%20Oct.wps">After 3 weeks, we felt we were ready to head out to the anchorages. Our first anchorage was near the beautiful, exclusive, Jean Michele Cousteau Resort where they fly guests in on </a><a href="file:///E:/My%20Documents/NEWSLETTERS/08,%20Oct.wps">seaplanes each day. They have some villas as well as bures where the rich and famous stay. We love this anchorage as “split rock” is a football field away with awesome snorkeling. In the prevailing winds, it is a very protected anchorage. We stayed there a few days working on small jobs like cleaning the bottom of the boat and relaxing, listening to the drums at sundown from the resort, watching the full moon rise, and just being happy to be where we are.</a><a href="file:///E:/My%20Documents/NEWSLETTERS/08,%20Oct.wps"><br /><br /></a><a href="file:///E:/My%20Documents/NEWSLETTERS/08,%20Oct.wps">We were anxious to get back up to Viani Bay and snorkel the Rainbow Reef we had enjoyed just before we headed to the states. Once again, we met Jack Fisher, the local guide and made </a><a href="file:///E:/My%20Documents/NEWSLETTERS/08,%20Oct.wps">arrangements to have him take us out snorkeling. Linda had her new underwater housing to try out and managed to take quite a few pictures.</a><a href="file:///E:/My%20Documents/NEWSLETTERS/08,%20Oct.wps"><br /><br />A few days later, John decided to take a hike over to another bay. John did not have a good day. He missed the trail and got lost in the bush. He had to go through thick brush to get to a hill so that he could see where he needed to go. He ended up pulling a muscle in his leg and had quite a strenuous time getting back. </a><a href="file:///E:/My%20Documents/NEWSLETTERS/08,%20Oct.wps"><br /></a><a href="file:///E:/My%20Documents/NEWSLETTERS/08,%20Oct.wps"><br /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4EdVSC5IuaBYl9_HdNKSVM7JDKb33GHyxQcrH1qbq50wctNcdpinzDJpkrkt6AkO2xJkk_FCmyDrCOpzCokbCjTeUZxpQydPmjxQmHrPIx2lQlExXzjufbLgfoGWNhHqzLD_-49Sa0vc/s1600-h/Cabbage+Patch+Coral+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4EdVSC5IuaBYl9_HdNKSVM7JDKb33GHyxQcrH1qbq50wctNcdpinzDJpkrkt6AkO2xJkk_FCmyDrCOpzCokbCjTeUZxpQydPmjxQmHrPIx2lQlExXzjufbLgfoGWNhHqzLD_-49Sa0vc/s320/Cabbage+Patch+Coral+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5375593930151757074" border="0" /></a><a href="file:///E:/My%20Documents/NEWSLETTERS/08,%20Oct.wps">Linda, on the other hand, went out to the reef with Jack Fisher and a couple from Holland and </a><a href="file:///E:/My%20Documents/NEWSLETTERS/08,%20Oct.wps">did two tank dives. Both dives were exceptional and it was a good day for her. That afternoon, Linda went with the couple from Holland to Jack’s village for a visit. It was Friday afternoon and the village was having a fund raiser. The children from the village were going to travel by boat to Taviuni to compete in sports events and they were playing card games with donated prizes and selling kava to raise the money. By the time we got there, the card games were over but the </a><a href="file:///E:/My%20Documents/NEWSLETTERS/08,%20Oct.wps">kava drinking was far from being over. We had a few bowls of kava and visited with the families before heading back to the boats before dark as we had to go around the reef to get there. </a><a href="file:///E:/My%20Documents/NEWSLETTERS/08,%20Oct.wps"><br /></a><a href="file:///E:/My%20Documents/NEWSLETTERS/08,%20Oct.wps"><br /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdSClzYZ9WPZ5f3-eTo7fsztNhDS7dC_6Fa261QBhCNCfHj2bviklnhD6IZ5irXb7MoxDU2SOX1ZOpIugpGzC8brUUWDyTCc5a8B2QGNJKtZSMz5bN8oQTc4UZNVciUp3iyHBPOczReQI/s1600-h/Around+the+Kava+Bowl+in+Viani+Bay+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdSClzYZ9WPZ5f3-eTo7fsztNhDS7dC_6Fa261QBhCNCfHj2bviklnhD6IZ5irXb7MoxDU2SOX1ZOpIugpGzC8brUUWDyTCc5a8B2QGNJKtZSMz5bN8oQTc4UZNVciUp3iyHBPOczReQI/s320/Around+the+Kava+Bowl+in+Viani+Bay+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5375593910535243538" border="0" /></a><a href="file:///E:/My%20Documents/NEWSLETTERS/08,%20Oct.wps">Those of you who haven’t experienced kava drinking, here is an abbreviated version. Yaqona, a root, is pounded into a powder and then put in a rag. This is washed through water in a 3 legged large bowl and looks like dirty dishwater. This is then called kava. Kava is served with some </a><a href="file:///E:/My%20Documents/NEWSLETTERS/08,%20Oct.wps">ceremony. A half of a coconut is used as a “cup”. You are presented with a cup (everyone drinks from the same cup) of usually ½ tide for the palanges. You clap once, take the cup in both hands between thumbs and index fingers and drink it down in one swift go. You then hand back the cup and clap 3 times. After you have had the initial cup of kava, you can refuse, but it is considered </a><a href="file:///E:/My%20Documents/NEWSLETTERS/08,%20Oct.wps">poor etiquette to refuse the first cup. It tastes very “root” and leaves a sort of scum on your teeth and can make your lips numb. This is all done sitting in a circle on a mat on the ground. You must sit with your legs bent at the knees and crossed. The bottom of your feet must never be toward the center. Shoulders and knees must be covered at all times. It gets mighty uncomfortable sitting on the ground with your legs crossed for any length of time and even harder to get up!</a><a href="file:///E:/My%20Documents/NEWSLETTERS/08,%20Oct.wps"><br /></a><a href="file:///E:/My%20Documents/NEWSLETTERS/08,%20Oct.wps"><br />The next day we went ashore to visit with Jack and his wife, Sophie and their daughter. We were given pumpkins (squash) from their garden and we gave them fishing line, soap and yeast. It is hard to keep “even” on this trading thing. It always seems that these people that have very little always end up giving us more.</a><a href="file:///E:/My%20Documents/NEWSLETTERS/08,%20Oct.wps"><br /></a><a href="file:///E:/My%20Documents/NEWSLETTERS/08,%20Oct.wps"><br />That afternoon we sailed with GAIA, the Dutch boat to another secluded bay where we stayed two nights. They snorkeled the reef close to the anchorage but Linda had an ear infection and had been taking amoxicillin and ear drops since the onset a few days previous.</a><a href="file:///E:/My%20Documents/NEWSLETTERS/08,%20Oct.wps"><br /></a><a href="file:///E:/My%20Documents/NEWSLETTERS/08,%20Oct.wps"><br />Our next passage was to Rabi Island (sounds like Rambi) about 20 miles away. We anchored in Albert Bay inside </a><a href="file:///E:/My%20Documents/NEWSLETTERS/08,%20Oct.wps">the reef and went ashore to present our sevusevu-the y</a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjb3UV4o3_Cs-_WMePNYM7Sdf2iKVTG5zF3UrZwzEuO6DqWpd2m1pXu1YIm1F_YjEsCn5ask8p6pdq6gia9j5FCL2LJZmN6oSOeQZOrHoDF_0ly25Bb0vxTELKx_KQzUuxu4tI58QABMLU/s1600-h/Trading+with+the+Villagers,+Albert+Bay,+Rabi+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjb3UV4o3_Cs-_WMePNYM7Sdf2iKVTG5zF3UrZwzEuO6DqWpd2m1pXu1YIm1F_YjEsCn5ask8p6pdq6gia9j5FCL2LJZmN6oSOeQZOrHoDF_0ly25Bb0vxTELKx_KQzUuxu4tI58QABMLU/s320/Trading+with+the+Villagers,+Albert+Bay,+Rabi+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5375594704518100002" border="0" /></a><a href="file:///E:/My%20Documents/NEWSLETTERS/08,%20Oct.wps">aqona to the women on the beach. We were welcomed </a><a href="file:///E:/My%20Documents/NEWSLETTERS/08,%20Oct.wps">and given permission to anchor in the bay. There are 12 people living in the small village at Albert Bay. They originally came from Tuvalu, a country that is sinking into the Pacific due to global warming. These people live in very primitive huts made from sticks with mats on the sand floor made of palm fronds. We were invited into one</a><a href="file:///E:/My%20Documents/NEWSLETTERS/08,%20Oct.wps"> of the homes sort of igloo shaped . They speak both Fijian and English. We were given 2 papaya and a freshly caught fish. We asked what they needed and </a><a href="file:///E:/My%20Documents/NEWSLETTERS/08,%20Oct.wps">they said batteries for their torches </a><a href="file:///E:/My%20Documents/NEWSLETTERS/08,%20Oct.wps">(flashlights). By looking around, we could see that they could use just about anything. Linda was given a hand made necklace that they sell and she agreed to pay for it the next day.</a><a href="file:///E:/My%20Documents/NEWSLETTERS/08,%20Oct.wps"><br /></a><a href="file:///E:/My%20Documents/NEWSLETTERS/08,%20Oct.wps"><br />We went through our “give away” supply the next morning and were able to get together some things we knew they could use. We gave them batteries, paper, pencils, tea, sugar, hair ties, fishing line, lures, Band-Aids, aspirin and an inflatable globe which caused quite a bit of </a><a href="file:///E:/My%20Documents/NEWSLETTERS/08,%20Oct.wps">discussion as to where we are from and our path followed to arrive in Fiji.</a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirY52RYbS1TctlcExHGlm8wEOxUM_V1TyRib1_kynkjXq2isRuVS6D3eUt2crgBuDMrIDqi4udHX5NizmPabVlwYo8rXiW_RFlU0XcFOwDp10rSCLQLg4wSj_ykPeBZvOFQPRpqODODOA/s1600-h/Rabi+couple+outside+their+home+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirY52RYbS1TctlcExHGlm8wEOxUM_V1TyRib1_kynkjXq2isRuVS6D3eUt2crgBuDMrIDqi4udHX5NizmPabVlwYo8rXiW_RFlU0XcFOwDp10rSCLQLg4wSj_ykPeBZvOFQPRpqODODOA/s320/Rabi+couple+outside+their+home+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5375594492792355874" border="0" /></a><a href="file:///E:/My%20Documents/NEWSLETTERS/08,%20Oct.wps"><br /><br />The eldest woman told us she was 57 and her husband was 62. They were very surprised to hear that Linda is 67 and John 75. They told us we looked much younger; and , compared to them, we do look much younger. These people lead a very hard life just trying to feed themselves on a daily basis. They subsist on mostly fish which the men spend most of the day or</a><a href="file:///E:/My%20Documents/NEWSLETTERS/08,%20Oct.wps"> night trying to get. They do grow fruit and some vegetables. They probably never see a doctor as their village is so remote; however, our friends Dan & Brenda Paull were headed that way. </a><a href="file:///E:/My%20Documents/NEWSLETTERS/08,%20Oct.wps">Dan is a retired cardiologist from Seattle.</a><a href="file:///E:/My%20Documents/NEWSLETTERS/08,%20Oct.wps"><br /></a><a href="file:///E:/My%20Documents/NEWSLETTERS/08,%20Oct.wps"><br />They wanted us to take pictures of them and so we did. We made some copies for them and they were very pleased to receive them. There was one young couple that was particularly handsome with two little girls. They dressed in their finest for the picture. There is some hope that these people will make quite a bit of money when </a><a href="file:///E:/My%20Documents/NEWSLETTERS/08,%20Oct.wps">they decide to sell their yaqona. It is now three years old and should bring top Fijian dollar in a few years. We wish them well.</a><a href="file:///E:/My%20Documents/NEWSLETTERS/08,%20Oct.wps"><br /></a><a href="file:///E:/My%20Documents/NEWSLETTERS/08,%20Oct.wps"><br />In the afternoon, while we were relaxing reading, there was a sharp rap on the hull. John went up and there was one of the men handing up a nice lobster which we had for dinner that night. Our next trip in we gave them a pumpkin and explained that they could plant the seeds in their garden. We also gave them some ginger which they could plant. They gave us egg plant and </a><a href="file:///E:/My%20Documents/NEWSLETTERS/08,%20Oct.wps">drinking coconuts as a parting gift. At this point, we felt we were close to being “even” in the gift department but we are richer by far with the memories of this little village and its’ people.</a><a href="file:///E:/My%20Documents/NEWSLETTERS/08,%20Oct.wps"><br /></a><a href="file:///E:/My%20Documents/NEWSLETTERS/08,%20Oct.wps"><br /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgt8YoYH1cu5bW9BYOm7FTKPwuYRjJiWpxdNzPLSlK-LRQSK8fgIcioDvmkJ4-OzY_1lWqJ1Z7_GhD_j1ZDRA6HuPFa0RsYqeAj6bTo_eUlYx5LMIcZSzd-X3T5y0UR2loEl6BUfcD8Dr8/s1600-h/P9170005+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgt8YoYH1cu5bW9BYOm7FTKPwuYRjJiWpxdNzPLSlK-LRQSK8fgIcioDvmkJ4-OzY_1lWqJ1Z7_GhD_j1ZDRA6HuPFa0RsYqeAj6bTo_eUlYx5LMIcZSzd-X3T5y0UR2loEl6BUfcD8Dr8/s320/P9170005+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5375594221424562642" border="0" /></a><a href="file:///E:/My%20Documents/NEWSLETTERS/08,%20Oct.wps">At 6 a.m., sunup, we headed from Rabi Island north and </a><a href="file:///E:/My%20Documents/NEWSLETTERS/08,%20Oct.wps">west around the most northern tip of Vanua Levu and </a><a href="file:///E:/My%20Documents/NEWSLETTERS/08,%20Oct.wps">very large reef. Once around the top of the reef, we were in calm waters after a </a><a href="file:///E:/My%20Documents/NEWSLETTERS/08,%20Oct.wps">boisterous 15 mile run. We had dragged a meat line from Rabi without a bite but once around the reef and timed </a><a href="file:///E:/My%20Documents/NEWSLETTERS/08,%20Oct.wps">perfectly, we snagged a 12 lb mahi mahi. By the time we got it cleaned and in </a><a href="file:///E:/My%20Documents/NEWSLETTERS/08,%20Oct.wps">the </a><a href="file:///E:/My%20Documents/NEWSLETTERS/08,%20Oct.wps">refer, it was </a><a href="file:///E:/My%20Documents/NEWSLETTERS/08,%20Oct.wps">time to take down the sails before entering </a><a href="file:///E:/My%20Documents/NEWSLETTERS/08,%20Oct.wps">the pa</a><a href="file:///E:/My%20Documents/NEWSLETTERS/08,%20Oct.wps">ss to the approach to Also Island. Jim Bandy is the morning “Rag Net” net control. He monitors boats on </a><a href="file:///E:/My%20Documents/NEWSLETTERS/08,%20Oct.wps">passage </a><a href="file:///E:/My%20Documents/NEWSLETTERS/08,%20Oct.wps">from Samoa in the east to Australia in the west </a><a href="file:///E:/My%20Documents/NEWSLETTERS/08,%20Oct.wps">and from the Marshalls Islands in the north to New </a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgK6XyP6mWGqw2-qqsIo_BExcGfSs5NN2FELWUeBf_0TkK6vcn6rl4EwlqRt1ZSwW3a_u9MFphtePXOXvm402LrnL_8jO1_A2kuOEJLBWw4r_CmTxGTHUVWedw92cXpHbw0PJ_XdL2EY1M/s1600-h/Coconut+Oil+Operation+at+Also+Island+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgK6XyP6mWGqw2-qqsIo_BExcGfSs5NN2FELWUeBf_0TkK6vcn6rl4EwlqRt1ZSwW3a_u9MFphtePXOXvm402LrnL_8jO1_A2kuOEJLBWw4r_CmTxGTHUVWedw92cXpHbw0PJ_XdL2EY1M/s320/Coconut+Oil+Operation+at+Also+Island+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5375593934697771186" border="0" /></a><a href="file:///E:/My%20Documents/NEWSLETTERS/08,%20Oct.wps">Zealand in the </a><a href="file:///E:/My%20Documents/NEWSLETTERS/08,%20Oct.wps">south. He gives </a><a href="file:///E:/My%20Documents/NEWSLETTERS/08,%20Oct.wps">extensive </a><a href="file:///E:/My%20Documents/NEWSLETTERS/08,%20Oct.wps">weather reports</a><a href="file:///E:/My%20Documents/NEWSLETTERS/08,%20Oct.wps"> and assists cruisers in any way he can. We first met Jim and his wife </a><a href="file:///E:/My%20Documents/NEWSLETTERS/08,%20Oct.wps">Kioko on their Passport 42 ALSO </a><a href="file:///E:/My%20Documents/NEWSLETTERS/08,%20Oct.wps">II, in the </a><a href="file:///E:/My%20Documents/NEWSLETTERS/08,%20Oct.wps">Sea of Cortez back in 2000. </a><a href="file:///E:/My%20Documents/NEWSLETTERS/08,%20Oct.wps">They crossed the Pacific in 2001 and got this far. </a><a href="file:///E:/My%20Documents/NEWSLETTERS/08,%20Oct.wps">They met the villagers and helped them by actually purchasing and putting in a new motor in the village boat. Jim & Kioko were “given” an island as a “vi</a><a href="file:///E:/My%20Documents/NEWSLETTERS/08,%20Oct.wps">naka (thank you)” .</a><a href="file:///E:/My%20Documents/NEWSLETTERS/08,%20Oct.wps"> </a><a href="file:///E:/My%20Documents/NEWSLETTERS/08,%20Oct.wps">Kioko said this is where she wants </a><a href="file:///E:/My%20Documents/NEWSLETTERS/08,%20Oct.wps">to spend the rest of her life and so they have </a><a href="file:///E:/My%20Documents/NEWSLETTERS/08,%20Oct.wps">developed ALSO </a><a href="file:///E:/My%20Documents/NEWSLETTERS/08,%20Oct.wps">ISLAND. Jim has a boat building-</a><a href="file:///E:/My%20Documents/NEWSLETTERS/08,%20Oct.wps">repair business in which he has </a><a href="file:///E:/My%20Documents/NEWSLETTERS/08,%20Oct.wps">locals working for him. He teaches </a><a href="file:///E:/My%20Documents/NEWSLETTERS/08,%20Oct.wps">them</a><a href="file:///E:/My%20Documents/NEWSLETTERS/08,%20Oct.wps"> </a><a href="file:///E:/My%20Documents/NEWSLETTERS/08,%20Oct.wps">how to </a><a href="file:///E:/My%20Documents/NEWSLETTERS/08,%20Oct.wps">build </a><a href="file:///E:/My%20Documents/NEWSLETTERS/08,%20Oct.wps">boats and repair motors. </a><a href="file:///E:/My%20Documents/NEWSLETTERS/08,%20Oct.wps">They also </a><a href="file:///E:/My%20Documents/NEWSLETTERS/08,%20Oct.wps">have a few guest houses on the property, an </a><a href="file:///E:/My%20Documents/NEWSLETTERS/08,%20Oct.wps">extensive garden, hiking trails, </a><a href="file:///E:/My%20Documents/NEWSLETTERS/08,%20Oct.wps">a coconut oil </a><a href="file:///E:/My%20Documents/NEWSLETTERS/08,%20Oct.wps">“factory”, a </a><a href="file:///E:/My%20Documents/NEWSLETTERS/08,%20Oct.wps">small</a><a href="file:///E:/My%20Documents/NEWSLETTERS/08,%20Oct.wps"> </a><a href="file:///E:/My%20Documents/NEWSLETTERS/08,%20Oct.wps">general </a><a href="file:///E:/My%20Documents/NEWSLETTERS/08,%20Oct.wps">store , </a><a href="file:///E:/My%20Documents/NEWSLETTERS/08,%20Oct.wps">are </a><a href="file:///E:/My%20Documents/NEWSLETTERS/08,%20Oct.wps">collecting and </a><a href="file:///E:/My%20Documents/NEWSLETTERS/08,%20Oct.wps">selling honey, and hold open house </a><a href="file:///E:/My%20Documents/NEWSLETTERS/08,%20Oct.wps">each afternoon at 4 p.m. when tea </a><a href="file:///E:/My%20Documents/NEWSLETTERS/08,%20Oct.wps">is served and lively conversation abounds. </a><a href="file:///E:/My%20Documents/NEWSLETTERS/08,%20Oct.wps"><br /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtiv0n-yxorsKQwlFTKRwzWZ9q9-e_f_p6TeQQOPM4zdsReLfvxyKpIEGd92SyxfBwRSaKTJJxcyMUeObrOOyhNcMW4yamODcQeA9jFbDS_nxnEjpa_xjZcnWmwBF9zckhdykc3GUPJ88/s1600-h/P9250009+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtiv0n-yxorsKQwlFTKRwzWZ9q9-e_f_p6TeQQOPM4zdsReLfvxyKpIEGd92SyxfBwRSaKTJJxcyMUeObrOOyhNcMW4yamODcQeA9jFbDS_nxnEjpa_xjZcnWmwBF9zckhdykc3GUPJ88/s320/P9250009+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5375594225611616802" border="0" /></a><a href="file:///E:/My%20Documents/NEWSLETTERS/08,%20Oct.wps"><br />We had arranged with Jim back in April to come to Also Island and use his facilities while we </a><a href="file:///E:/My%20Documents/NEWSLETTERS/08,%20Oct.wps">varnished the interior of HAWKEYE. It </a><a href="file:///E:/My%20Documents/NEWSLETTERS/08,%20Oct.wps">turned out to be a great place to do this. We moved everything from the main saloon </a><a href="file:///E:/My%20Documents/NEWSLETTERS/08,%20Oct.wps">to the forepeak and aft cabin, removed all pieces of wood we could which we took to shore and Linda sanded and </a><a href="file:///E:/My%20Documents/NEWSLETTERS/08,%20Oct.wps">varnished there while John worked on the sanding and </a><a href="file:///E:/My%20Documents/NEWSLETTERS/08,%20Oct.wps">varnishing of all parts that could not be removed. We stayed in one of their rooms and had our meals there also. It worked out very well.</a><a href="file:///E:/My%20Documents/NEWSLETTERS/08,%20Oct.wps"><br />Over a period of five days, we completed the job and put</a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisho5OELeCNWsl5zgPQaZ54_G_yPGLSQahS_GukI5a-VYjOT-QpXh8UCfGwHsp9HohyphenhyphenCb6ZHGvDYCNUOw2OtukavWYW7RotPf3ZJnqrvrC5ZRvI-ZxDGXr-KV08BWBb8QcR1hnlQIPlfE/s1600-h/PA010007+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisho5OELeCNWsl5zgPQaZ54_G_yPGLSQahS_GukI5a-VYjOT-QpXh8UCfGwHsp9HohyphenhyphenCb6ZHGvDYCNUOw2OtukavWYW7RotPf3ZJnqrvrC5ZRvI-ZxDGXr-KV08BWBb8QcR1hnlQIPlfE/s320/PA010007+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5375594476279034098" border="0" /></a><a href="file:///E:/My%20Documents/NEWSLETTERS/08,%20Oct.wps"> </a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKeMqHVu5P9gOrVhU1q9ExEIa5M3Q3wyWgu_5nGcHLvQAbmI6W8ihi5kP-EmePz7IFc_l7iMh4tLC8Qo2nfazP-YsLu0Ac59LeIIUtSUoywYE69kTsmmB69sz0Le9G672BAagvv4BbguQ/s1600-h/PA050008+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKeMqHVu5P9gOrVhU1q9ExEIa5M3Q3wyWgu_5nGcHLvQAbmI6W8ihi5kP-EmePz7IFc_l7iMh4tLC8Qo2nfazP-YsLu0Ac59LeIIUtSUoywYE69kTsmmB69sz0Le9G672BAagvv4BbguQ/s320/PA050008+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5375594483372122130" border="0" /></a><a href="file:///E:/My%20Documents/NEWSLETTERS/08,%20Oct.wps">HAWKEYE back together. She now looks much better </a><a href="file:///E:/My%20Documents/NEWSLETTERS/08,%20Oct.wps">down below. That old </a><a href="file:///E:/My%20Documents/NEWSLETTERS/08,%20Oct.wps">saying is true, </a><a href="file:///E:/My%20Documents/NEWSLETTERS/08,%20Oct.wps">“Cruising is </a><a href="file:///E:/My%20Documents/NEWSLETTERS/08,%20Oct.wps">working on your boat in exotic places.”</a><a href="file:///E:/My%20Documents/NEWSLETTERS/08,%20Oct.wps"><br /></a><a href="file:///E:/My%20Documents/NEWSLETTERS/08,%20Oct.wps"><br />On Sunday, Linda and Kioko went to the village to attend church. We wore the proper attire of a dress covering the shoulders and knees and went by boat. Upon arriving to the bay where the village is, we discovered that the tide was going out and we had to walk in mud ankle deep to </a><a href="file:///E:/My%20Documents/NEWSLETTERS/08,%20Oct.wps">get to shore. Once </a><a href="file:///E:/My%20Documents/NEWSLETTERS/08,%20Oct.wps">there, we were able to wash out feet in fresh water and put on our sandals. Kioko is known by all in the village and we visited severa</a><a href="file:///E:/My%20Documents/NEWSLETTERS/08,%20Oct.wps">l families in their homes. We sat on mats on the floor with children running around shouting “Palanges!”. They all wanted their pictures taken and Linda obliged. When shown the picture in the camera, they would all point at each other and giggle.</a><a href="file:///E:/My%20Documents/NEWSLETTERS/08,%20Oct.wps"><br /></a><a href="file:///E:/My%20Documents/NEWSLETTERS/08,%20Oct.wps"><br /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijNM_C0Z8Y0u7oOJAYDnnL3agfvAathvL67cxApKp9rZd9k5XDzw3AMNNhH1yNoh2OJUdhyHw96eOa_aJkRLhqMQx4ilOodvFyEyfyJ8TtABRHthtgxL9rr0a5XETYT1EDfjujzRh1kHM/s1600-h/P9270023+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijNM_C0Z8Y0u7oOJAYDnnL3agfvAathvL67cxApKp9rZd9k5XDzw3AMNNhH1yNoh2OJUdhyHw96eOa_aJkRLhqMQx4ilOodvFyEyfyJ8TtABRHthtgxL9rr0a5XETYT1EDfjujzRh1kHM/s320/P9270023+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5375594470530910338" border="0" /></a><a href="file:///E:/My%20Documents/NEWSLETTERS/08,%20Oct.wps">The Methodist church service was in Fijian, but the a capella singing was so beautiful it didn’t matter what language. Beautiful floral arrangements supplied by the villagers adorned the pulpit. After the service, those we had not visited, stood outside the church and introduced themselves with handshakes and beautiful smiles.</a><a href="file:///E:/My%20Documents/NEWSLETTERS/08,%20Oct.wps"><br /></a><a href="file:///E:/My%20Documents/NEWSLETTERS/08,%20Oct.wps"><br /></a><a href="file:///E:/My%20Documents/NEWSLETTERS/08,%20Oct.wps">We were invited for lunch to on</a><a href="file:///E:/My%20Documents/NEWSLETTERS/08,%20Oct.wps">e of the homes and sat on a large mat on the floor. A bowl is passed to wash your hands and a towel. It was a typical Fijian meal of taro, bele in </a><a href="file:///E:/My%20Documents/NEWSLETTERS/08,%20Oct.wps">coconut milk (like a strong spinach), cabbage </a><a href="file:///E:/My%20Documents/NEWSLETTERS/08,%20Oct.wps">and juice made from “lemons” a very tart orange centered </a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvdh4woeimxIZnUbv8GN_hcDJICZKjjM_Ushxj1I0IfT88MRYmR14FRd5_Q9X_uTpph_-RSwd292JsLIh_NiGn-qfupNrHtBU1KUigGA2RWYXmkMfC1JDf_z4_02UK6No5TnT2Y3KtwhI/s1600-h/Lunch+with+Tokasa+and+Nopote+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvdh4woeimxIZnUbv8GN_hcDJICZKjjM_Ushxj1I0IfT88MRYmR14FRd5_Q9X_uTpph_-RSwd292JsLIh_NiGn-qfupNrHtBU1KUigGA2RWYXmkMfC1JDf_z4_02UK6No5TnT2Y3KtwhI/s320/Lunch+with+Tokasa+and+Nopote+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5375594212764525954" border="0" /></a><a href="file:///E:/My%20Documents/NEWSLETTERS/08,%20Oct.wps">fruit. The only utensil was a large spoon as they eat mostly with their fingers. No home has screens so flies are everywhere and makes it difficult to eat. All in all, it was a wonderful experience with these oh so friendly people.</a><a href="file:///E:/My%20Documents/NEWSLETTERS/08,%20Oct.wps"><br /></a><a href="file:///E:/My%20Documents/NEWSLETTERS/08,%20Oct.wps"><br /></a><a href="file:///E:/My%20Documents/NEWSLETTERS/08,%20Oct.wps">While waiting for the trades to settle down and so we are now working our way along the north coast of Vanua Levu another boat showed up. BARBARA ANN, with a family of 4, are from Miami, FL. We ended up buddy boating with them for the next few weeks. After leaving Also Island, we had a wonderful sail in and out of the reefs </a><a href="file:///E:/My%20Documents/NEWSLETTERS/08,%20Oct.wps">enjoying incredible scenery. One night we anchored off Vorovoro Island which is where the Adventure Vacation facility of “Tribe Wanted” </a><a href="file:///E:/My%20Documents/NEWSLETTERS/08,%20Oct.wps">is located. It seems to be a successful operation at this time with plans to expand their “village” where people come to live the working life of a Fijian for a few weeks. After a tour of the village, we raised our anchor and sailed 5 miles and anchored off a lumber mill. We were able to get a truck to Labasa with our</a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEKblgqmgiJiaZ9anmBsC_n9dPjnCWhueD9H46tOx2Mv_hxQo8wxNDk1Qa9eLaSF-40zh7jZou8nSNjbS1QHvp4TorTNXNX7p3WLs87VyfhoUoe9HU4xY9r-naFq7_jkXPYaCHNQRAl6A/s1600-h/Villagers+gathered+in+the+evening+around+the+Kava+bowl+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEKblgqmgiJiaZ9anmBsC_n9dPjnCWhueD9H46tOx2Mv_hxQo8wxNDk1Qa9eLaSF-40zh7jZou8nSNjbS1QHvp4TorTNXNX7p3WLs87VyfhoUoe9HU4xY9r-naFq7_jkXPYaCHNQRAl6A/s320/Villagers+gathered+in+the+evening+around+the+Kava+bowl+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5375594711393268066" border="0" /></a><a href="file:///E:/My%20Documents/NEWSLETTERS/08,%20Oct.wps"> buddy boat, BARBARA ANN, and had lunch and did some much needed grocery shopping after being away from any stores for over a month. We decided to stay the night at that anchorage and BARBARA ANN sailed another 8 miles to the next anchorage where we joined them the next morning. We visited the beautiful resort of Palmlea Farms and had lunch and dinner there while visiting with the owners. They are raising some special goats for the meat and also have 4 guest bures. The next day we sailed down to yet another anchorage where we visited another resort on the island of Nukubati. Yet another upscale resort.<br /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTVgp5QWPLZPbU2OeTdCyqg8xfN_wbPcmsSAgmcl-XocVX47nwAOQGUEe23wrdQ7vBp4M0weKzpMo9x9OijNBFX5_JCHBoJU-fi1H1vZpI7Xzvq_lwpfpFK7WvPCSvM52Vdn9E5-KjRy8/s1600-h/Bure+at+Tribe+Wanted+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTVgp5QWPLZPbU2OeTdCyqg8xfN_wbPcmsSAgmcl-XocVX47nwAOQGUEe23wrdQ7vBp4M0weKzpMo9x9OijNBFX5_JCHBoJU-fi1H1vZpI7Xzvq_lwpfpFK7WvPCSvM52Vdn9E5-KjRy8/s320/Bure+at+Tribe+Wanted+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5375593914518293362" border="0" /></a><a href="file:///E:/My%20Documents/NEWSLETTERS/08,%20Oct.wps"><br />The reinforced trades held. We moved on to other anchorages bobbing and weaving through the reefs which at times were quite scary as there is a problem with our Max Sea on both computers. The system keeps crashing and John has spent hours working on it with help from other cruisers over the ham radio. As of yet, he has not found the problem and so traveling is quite stressful as there are so many reefs. We hope to get into Savusavu safely over the next few days and see if we can get the problem fixed. This will greatly affect our traveling further at this time.<br /><br />A tip for cruisers or to be cruisers. We don’t have a freezer. Linda’s daughter made a real find for us this summer. She found a brand new food saver at a garage sale for $5 and picked it up for us. We can now vacuum pack meat and it will keep in the bottom of our 1.5 cubic foot refer for 3 weeks or more. Now all our spare parts are vacuum packaged, including our spare GPS, which makes them waterproof.<br /><br />We have loved our stay in Fiji and would love to stay longer but our visa runs out during cyclone season so we must leave soon and head north to the Marshall Islands which are north of the equator and out of the cyclone area. Another adventure awaits!<br /><br />Vinaka vaca levu, John & Linda<br /><br /></a><input id="gwProxy" type="hidden"><!--Session data--><input onclick="jsCall();" id="jsProxy" type="hidden"><div id="refHTML"></div><input id="gwProxy" type="hidden"><!--Session data--><input onclick="jsCall();" id="jsProxy" type="hidden"><div id="refHTML"></div><input id="gwProxy" type="hidden"><!--Session data--><input onclick="jsCall();" id="jsProxy" type="hidden"><div id="refHTML"></div><input id="gwProxy" type="hidden"><!--Session data--><input onclick="jsCall();" id="jsProxy" type="hidden"><div id="refHTML"></div><input id="gwProxy" type="hidden"><!--Session data--><input onclick="jsCall();" id="jsProxy" type="hidden"><div id="refHTML"></div><input id="gwProxy" type="hidden"><!--Session data--><input onclick="jsCall();" id="jsProxy" type="hidden"><div id="refHTML"></div><input id="gwProxy" type="hidden"><!--Session data--><input onclick="jsCall();" id="jsProxy" type="hidden"><div id="refHTML"></div><input id="gwProxy" type="hidden"><!--Session data--><input onclick="jsCall();" id="jsProxy" type="hidden"><div id="refHTML"></div>About John and Lindahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09804781596879702975noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-919823168408227838.post-24021993022317943022008-05-31T05:29:00.000+12:002009-09-11T12:05:42.190+12:00HAWKEYE HAPPENINGS, May, 2008<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxq2qTlGBAFhwOxmeKXSJF2uEu9UOHgPQcP-8NE10z9SbNBwsz_eocKWIWD1RYhYE4m2ABHphE0EiRRr6fNYiZ1OekKcObZW70ex330x4g3ejjiw9LWYDpvU1vN6y-ssOatg9ARkuJ6BI/s1600-h/IMG_0195-1+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxq2qTlGBAFhwOxmeKXSJF2uEu9UOHgPQcP-8NE10z9SbNBwsz_eocKWIWD1RYhYE4m2ABHphE0EiRRr6fNYiZ1OekKcObZW70ex330x4g3ejjiw9LWYDpvU1vN6y-ssOatg9ARkuJ6BI/s320/IMG_0195-1+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5375568245790552738" border="0" /></a>HAWKEYE HAPPENINGS, May 2008<br />The cyclone season in Tonga turned out to be quite benign of which we are thankful. The one scare that we had, was good practice for us. We headed into Nieafu and got on our cyclone mooring and prepared the boat. This means taking off all canvas (dodger, biminy, etc) sails, safety gear, jerry jugs and everything else that we can. Once HAWKEYE was put to bed and her mooring lines secured with anti-chafe gear, we headed to shore with our friends, Matt and Judy. They had gone through the same exercises preparing their boat, ELSEWHERE. After securing our dinghies in a protected spot, we headed to a motel for the rest of the afternoon and night. That evening we watched the wind and rain and played cards and visited. The cyclone never came and the next day, things looked better. DAMION had moved on out to sea and blew itself out. We chalked the experience up to practice in preparedness and discussed what else we should have done. We, on HAWKEYE, had made up a “to do” cyclone preparedness list the year before and we referred to it which was a big help.<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiEK3iZyGiJHrH7ScVLYZxD4lDnk3CERuoV0-oFvVJSHjqTZPrkq5576OBIz2ZQMZ8kGnxuUqLDJpdnEtyVPI9VG1hWgEMyqX2qoN6zDwFJQyyDpWEhmpjiwoLJ-V36moNpKSt54oDnBk/s1600-h/PC080004+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiEK3iZyGiJHrH7ScVLYZxD4lDnk3CERuoV0-oFvVJSHjqTZPrkq5576OBIz2ZQMZ8kGnxuUqLDJpdnEtyVPI9VG1hWgEMyqX2qoN6zDwFJQyyDpWEhmpjiwoLJ-V36moNpKSt54oDnBk/s320/PC080004+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5375569424397086290" border="0" /></a><br />Christmas was spent out at beautiful Tapana anchorage with turkey and most of the trimmings. Pumpkin pie was squash pie and there was no celery for the stuffing but we all enjoyed it anyway. Judy and Linda were able to score a very expensive turkey in town but it was worth it and we were able to get several meals from it. New Year’s Eve was spent in the same location and “early” as we are just across the International Date Line and welcomed in the New Year a whole day before you in the states.<br />In January, several of the yachts that had been in Tonga for over a year, received letters from the Head of Customs stating they must either import their boats and pay a tax of about 20% of their boat’s value or leave the country. This put us all in an uproar with lots of discussion as to what to do. We had been in Tonga over a year but did not receive the letter.<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh804KHJjBqA178GwLAN5H2NiTywwPzPr0o248P7hK7NzyYB31kB6KujCRRRvtwHKQ5mrgB2CKIRclUQNaV4UJa9gklFRZnS7mSGfqVtTBVgRRYlInmhp_62wnu7FGHfZqNd9ewZcNe_u8/s1600-h/PC130046_edited+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh804KHJjBqA178GwLAN5H2NiTywwPzPr0o248P7hK7NzyYB31kB6KujCRRRvtwHKQ5mrgB2CKIRclUQNaV4UJa9gklFRZnS7mSGfqVtTBVgRRYlInmhp_62wnu7FGHfZqNd9ewZcNe_u8/s320/PC130046_edited+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5375569569381313650" border="0" /></a> <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcPlNlbqHo-apSI7g47h6aSV22ZhH1Vr9tm3qhwqCj8bVoNCo1P2JNX1zJtZXK_feLJu4jzaZSuxyx3WipSzZ1iZ6AExx0PTST-SUFURCLrpT8Y7MznkNp36zR2P04AR7PpfSgV-isEsY/s1600-h/PC130049_edited+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcPlNlbqHo-apSI7g47h6aSV22ZhH1Vr9tm3qhwqCj8bVoNCo1P2JNX1zJtZXK_feLJu4jzaZSuxyx3WipSzZ1iZ6AExx0PTST-SUFURCLrpT8Y7MznkNp36zR2P04AR7PpfSgV-isEsY/s320/PC130049_edited+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5375569570321837122" border="0" /></a>Apparently the day they did the survey of boats in the area, we were hauled out painting HAWKEYE’S bottom and doing some other maintenance needed when out of the water. The Customs People neglected to see us on the hard. They did know we were around, however, as our new rigging came in and we spent quite a bit of time trying to get it out of customs. We ended up having to pay duty, which they promised us we would get back before we left Tonga. Yeah, sure! We wrote a <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcyk6GSO-UJ205usFxjdZwl86QswZ1VQeKRVu4UAl-MNV7rugLMt27wWwTPYIjRlO-tpruKe8eSOj3dMPw-vsacDUYtxdDDFd2WoZC2V0WWv15yHA9r5L6xU1gth8eX-p-Wr7xbYrsBXs/s1600-h/P3120117+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcyk6GSO-UJ205usFxjdZwl86QswZ1VQeKRVu4UAl-MNV7rugLMt27wWwTPYIjRlO-tpruKe8eSOj3dMPw-vsacDUYtxdDDFd2WoZC2V0WWv15yHA9r5L6xU1gth8eX-p-Wr7xbYrsBXs/s320/P3120117+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5375568594171442802" border="0" /></a>letter of complaint to the Head of Customs in the capitol and received a letter back assuring us we would receive the duty paid back when we left Tonga.<br />A meeting was called in Nieafu of all boats that had received the letter and anyone else interested in the subject. There was a good turnout and the Head of Customs was there. He is a Kiwi that Tonga hired to take over the problems in customs and clean it up. He talked a great length and understood our problem and was eager to work with us. By the end of the day, a document was presented to each boat owner stating that their boat was exempt under the old rules and that these boats could stay in Tonga forever if the owners chose. It was a great relief to all of us.<br />John spent a week up and down the mast installing the new rigging, roller furling, and then <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghS1EAWy0p2Xxi5fC-lpZWb-TB0KpiNqb07MVDKLVManZ9pNNjjDVvRuBCJoWNzY6TA1hwr4zWobTfDoA03sAp6b0P_jgMeoJxRuuwcYXVg1pEyOQdOsbAPKJtgHq2u1dXmOFTABOSjyE/s1600-h/P2030156+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghS1EAWy0p2Xxi5fC-lpZWb-TB0KpiNqb07MVDKLVManZ9pNNjjDVvRuBCJoWNzY6TA1hwr4zWobTfDoA03sAp6b0P_jgMeoJxRuuwcYXVg1pEyOQdOsbAPKJtgHq2u1dXmOFTABOSjyE/s320/P2030156+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5375568580540127042" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQdXRmbHz8gPCeOytVUm0TUt4LDcOh-YZLOgCYPrHlOfLH5kPcQ5gXcQ1W6JqSMpxt3FYNBF4-VxkSFDdm7Kanv7ucrWvjy0762lY_GEEE9DO_h4bR-ZibnRh7bXysLcYFASLAarwmgVA/s1600-h/P2030183+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQdXRmbHz8gPCeOytVUm0TUt4LDcOh-YZLOgCYPrHlOfLH5kPcQ5gXcQ1W6JqSMpxt3FYNBF4-VxkSFDdm7Kanv7ucrWvjy0762lY_GEEE9DO_h4bR-ZibnRh7bXysLcYFASLAarwmgVA/s320/P2030183+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5375568583381689602" border="0" /></a>replaced the lifelines. We were finally ready to leave Tonga but it was still cyclone season so we enjoyed the time waiting for a safe weather window to head to Fiji. Linda was able to do some diving of the major dive sites in the area with one of the local dive businesses whenever he had a space on his dive boat. One day was spent with Ben and Lisa the owners of Aquarium Café/Internet and Kart Safaris. We covered several miles of beach, bush, and forest in the Karts. If you ever get to Nieafu, it is a must to do.<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPMEyybwnB7AjND8NdMUbzMb_dcRwVSi3Oik74yElG-4z6qlCa5svZCtpEg-yyz5010NsS3O7s-su-q5SKfUgMS6kRHVCbMRM28AivF0Q8wTXZOorz81g91hgqK2OsD6Q48P3amTiz8UQ/s1600-h/P2030079+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPMEyybwnB7AjND8NdMUbzMb_dcRwVSi3Oik74yElG-4z6qlCa5svZCtpEg-yyz5010NsS3O7s-su-q5SKfUgMS6kRHVCbMRM28AivF0Q8wTXZOorz81g91hgqK2OsD6Q48P3amTiz8UQ/s320/P2030079+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5375568248822110194" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7DM3VJgf4hk0YmBeJHl71z8ke8VbHMEEnxcwa_yfborbuYWt3WmZo7MvW0_2uqQ9Cysqcg68wFu2L68ivCkyEpBglpdf7dJPLkFMlWcANF3LOcL2YQln7BCSlp8-0KvilJOUGMfkCf9Q/s1600-h/P2030102+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7DM3VJgf4hk0YmBeJHl71z8ke8VbHMEEnxcwa_yfborbuYWt3WmZo7MvW0_2uqQ9Cysqcg68wFu2L68ivCkyEpBglpdf7dJPLkFMlWcANF3LOcL2YQln7BCSlp8-0KvilJOUGMfkCf9Q/s320/P2030102+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5375568257303692850" border="0" /></a><br />The Vava’u area is quite small and word travels quickly. Everyone knew that we were waiting to head to Fiji and one day a small boat used to go between villages came up and a palangi (white person) told us that he and his wife had brought a young Fijian fellow to Tonga with them and that he needed to get back to Fiji as his visa was running out. They told us Tom was an orphan and had lived in a detention center for five years, as there was no facility for orphan boys in Fiji, only orphan girls. They said he was a nice boy and that he would really like the experience of sailing to Fiji and they were hard pressed to come up with the airfare to send him back. We agreed under some trepidation. Tom is 16, had never been to sea, knew nothing about sailing and we had not met him. As the days wore on, we wanted to back out but couldn’t figure a way to get out of it gracefully.<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiz7eGs035s6TGo0p_DY39zAdDPoly_wQDo3eBpGLMswC00F__wDboU9zYPIW1ZwI0na5wf4SyWPF2-2scHBfIQk1k2MWDrb95-PTulbB8aA69jSP3v5q-oAnw4bfuwfQQPa_jzig2zOrs/s1600-h/P2030093+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiz7eGs035s6TGo0p_DY39zAdDPoly_wQDo3eBpGLMswC00F__wDboU9zYPIW1ZwI0na5wf4SyWPF2-2scHBfIQk1k2MWDrb95-PTulbB8aA69jSP3v5q-oAnw4bfuwfQQPa_jzig2zOrs/s320/P2030093+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5375568252185049506" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2DQ_rToxpS61iVPCqBTQLIy5qTs7brid9mgj7v2SaQEoZmTzbtge8g8Qj94G8yPZcttC3yXTP96NNRvr2i4MARAVG1t3Y3cQNwoVFO8IbJea3JxhdoPFp0_vGvi-a6jr3h1SAxCK-lzQ/s1600-h/P2030151+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2DQ_rToxpS61iVPCqBTQLIy5qTs7brid9mgj7v2SaQEoZmTzbtge8g8Qj94G8yPZcttC3yXTP96NNRvr2i4MARAVG1t3Y3cQNwoVFO8IbJea3JxhdoPFp0_vGvi-a6jr3h1SAxCK-lzQ/s320/P2030151+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5375568574665833394" border="0" /></a><br />The day before we were to leave, we finally met Tom. There were a number of people there to “witness” the event. We had little time to talk to Tom separately. There was another Fijian man there that had crewed on a boat from Fiji and he did most of the talking. I think he was doing an assessment of us out for Tom. We ended up checking out that day with Tom on our crew list. He seemed like a nice fellow to us and there were so many people concerned about the situation, mostly on Tom’s side that we decided it would be an experience and hopefully a good one. He had a good attitude and a winning smile.<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaLCSY2rZtrAuo1amdAfYc2ccM2D-k6QftYFB7Zd1kIvbBm89F0ViBnaUILkUFYR1Y1ZwLqiynn2xe49B9OJoXux2DApI6i4TRVbs9A-6s6nK8V8AtM6wnhJ9tiheCc2IrjuQhWoVqeac/s1600-h/P2030122+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaLCSY2rZtrAuo1amdAfYc2ccM2D-k6QftYFB7Zd1kIvbBm89F0ViBnaUILkUFYR1Y1ZwLqiynn2xe49B9OJoXux2DApI6i4TRVbs9A-6s6nK8V8AtM6wnhJ9tiheCc2IrjuQhWoVqeac/s320/P2030122+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5375568262807055938" border="0" /></a><br />While going through the checking out process, we were told we had 12 hours to leave the country. Our plan had been to check out because our visas were expiring within the next few days and so was Tom’s, spending a day or two getting the boat ready and then head out. It would give us time to get to know Tom and for him to get comfortable on HAWKEYE. Customs finally gave us 24 hours to leave the country. If we had any difficulties, we were to see them and they would decide if they would allow us to stay longer. Our next step was to get back that duty we had paid thinking this might be our excuse, as they would probably give us a voucher, check, or some obscure reason to not give the money back. We went to the Treasury Office under much trepidation. Customs had assured us that Treasury had all the necessary papers. Yeah, sure… The two palangis walk into the Treasury and they immediately said “John Kelly?” John said, “Yes.” The lady walked over to a drawer and handed us a stack of bills. We looked at each other and couldn’t believe it! We were now committed to leave in less than 24 hours.<br />We had an appointment to get duty free fuel at 3 p.m. and Tom and his friend, Joe, wanted to see the boat so we took them along to the fuel dock with us. The truck was there ready to fill the tanks and asked us for our duty free paper. What duty free paper??? No one told us we needed a special paper….. John sat with the boat, Joe, Tom and the fuel guy in the hot sun and Linda headed off to our favorite Customs Office and explained the situation. She was told that the paper needed to be requested at the time of checking out and to just go pay the duty and leave. Excuse me, but what will it take to get the duty free form? Linda was not leaving without it. Well, there is a new form and an old form and you are the first boat to leave under this new ruling and we don’t know what to do. Give me the two forms and I will fill them both out and then you can use whichever form you choose but we need to get our fuel now and they won’t <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4M5ElgGii3R1tGuyTEeDD2I2QQPfr14hqlI4aHrgh_NUCuWN1JxSLzhc5ucv18NBzZ7LFoMXP_1ATPrMgrOcfPianPVvg3upDA-sxscbgIJD-Kq2J-tb0Jd01wrN8PF6MQnGQZOSmNog/s1600-h/PA120026_edited+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4M5ElgGii3R1tGuyTEeDD2I2QQPfr14hqlI4aHrgh_NUCuWN1JxSLzhc5ucv18NBzZ7LFoMXP_1ATPrMgrOcfPianPVvg3upDA-sxscbgIJD-Kq2J-tb0Jd01wrN8PF6MQnGQZOSmNog/s320/PA120026_edited+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5375569423452384930" border="0" /></a>give it to us unless we have the form. After much staring out to sea by the Customs Agent and Linda sitting looking at him waiting for the forms, the forms were copied and she filled them out. Finally the forms were signed, stamped and examined by others but, after 45 minutes, she had that necessary form in her hand. The Customs agent had told her earlier, “How do I know if the fuel is going to your boat?” “Well, come on down and see them put it in the boat.” It was now close to their quitting time and he finally gave his blessing and Linda went running down the dock with the form. By the time she got there, the guy had already filled the tanks and gerry cans and was about to pull away except Linda had the money to pay the bill. We had turned in all our Tongan money except for the exact amount to pay for the fuel and to have a nice dinner that night. What a fiasco but it turned out o.k. We think that Customs just wanted us out of there and hoped we would never return. HAWKEYE had been the “first boat” under the new rules in everything we did and we were sure tired of hearing it, as were they in trying to figure out what to do.<br />That evening we had quite a few laughs with our friends Steve and Tess over dinner. We had become good friends over the last 17 months. They run the “Crow’s Nest” restaurant in Nieafu and we ate there quite a bit and bought their wonderful breads, cinnamon rolls and bagels. Tess, who is Indian, gave Linda some cooking classes and Steve taught her how to make Bagels. We had had several meals and get togethers with them over our time in Tonga and we will miss them. We also had a sad goodbye with Larry and Sheri who have the Ark Gallery and Orion Charters in Tapana. Linda would snorkel with Sheri each day and we became good friends.<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvPjjeGIbj7BEXJpeurGNFFKpUw9XjTk0h4IWnQDqoqcDeRRUnSYHNsnKpa2k5DtVzYha1ef8jdD8rbZc9JO6n5umkAyGS4PQ36Mx1piY3cNScExBjQ6liyzp_So269meVZ_xR3mem8co/s1600-h/P4132007+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvPjjeGIbj7BEXJpeurGNFFKpUw9XjTk0h4IWnQDqoqcDeRRUnSYHNsnKpa2k5DtVzYha1ef8jdD8rbZc9JO6n5umkAyGS4PQ36Mx1piY3cNScExBjQ6liyzp_So269meVZ_xR3mem8co/s320/P4132007+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5375568858685545554" border="0" /></a><br />The next morning Tom was their bright and early. We set out an hour before our deadline of 11 a.m. We were told we could be fined $10,000 p’angas ($5,000 USD) if we were caught in Tonga after our deadline. On the way out, while still within the reef, we decided to keep going instead of going to an anchorage and taking a chance of being caught and fined. John got the wind vane rigged, John and Tom got the dinghy up on deck and we headed out the pass, next stop, Fiji.<br />We had light winds and calm seas. Tom did great until that evening when he became seasick. Linda gave him a Sturgeron tablet and that seemed to do the trick. Thank goodness. Tom was a delight. He was eager to help in any way but would ask for direction, which was great. We tried to show him the workings of the boat, navigation, safety and as much as he could absorb. Tom was very polite and a joy to be around. His smile was infectious. He LOVED the Ipods and we had to keep one on the charger at all times. He was a little unsure as he saw Tonga fade in the distance and only water and kept saying, “When will we see land again?” He seemed to relax and enjoy the trip but was excited when we saw the first of the islands of Fiji. He talked of his family. His mom had left his father 8 years ago with the two youngest children and he didn’t know where she was. <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLjcLSlUDj6iAOeV3Y9uNFxzGtMfoFRwF0K3MOP-DQWuyVx3EjitytyQZH-X3MHx1ruUPzq43a9HsVA2zz__mUGKz5ZAxv2iFMD_24N47iptx5PbEZ_QUaOHgrMp1pxLS7n3NdsTrk1Yk/s1600-h/P3170119+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLjcLSlUDj6iAOeV3Y9uNFxzGtMfoFRwF0K3MOP-DQWuyVx3EjitytyQZH-X3MHx1ruUPzq43a9HsVA2zz__mUGKz5ZAxv2iFMD_24N47iptx5PbEZ_QUaOHgrMp1pxLS7n3NdsTrk1Yk/s320/P3170119+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5375568597727623538" border="0" /></a> He and two younger sisters lived with the father until he was killed and then the girls went to an orphan facility for girls and he went to the detention facility. He is very close to his sisters and was really looking forward to seeing them again. At 16, he couldn’t stay at the detention facility any longer and it was then that he met Stefan and Heather and they invited him to experience Tonga. He had worked making furniture in Suva and that was where he was headed upon returning to Fiji.<br />Our 425-mile crossing from Tonga to Fiji was quite pleasant with gentle winds and calm seas until the third day. We could see the island where we were going in the distance and were to be arriving the next morning. We had managed to dodge squalls until then. That afternoon, we had one come up on us that was a large cell. We shortened sail and for about an hour, John took the helm and we surfed down waves under 30-35 knots of wind spotting 3 waterspouts (one was a double). Thank goodness none touched down to the water and were not that close to us. Later, that same day, we had another squall but with no rain. We had to head<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaoRZ6HXHRxjEOJJet5ldJEpXKfbTDbd2k30J9Th2V7QrlVSFMpqF_2fwXmNcfLmBZC_eLJfyXmQJl_QgX6Ix5jfPQ8_kZuPVIssQIgPrNGU7_kA5FlDwz5pv3BpgZc_bxyDV3fcr6t9I/s1600-h/P3170120+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaoRZ6HXHRxjEOJJet5ldJEpXKfbTDbd2k30J9Th2V7QrlVSFMpqF_2fwXmNcfLmBZC_eLJfyXmQJl_QgX6Ix5jfPQ8_kZuPVIssQIgPrNGU7_kA5FlDwz5pv3BpgZc_bxyDV3fcr6t9I/s320/P3170120+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5375568845426978514" border="0" /></a> off in the wrong direction for a while until it finally settled down and then we ran out of wind. We reached the dreaded, very large reef at the Savusavu point an hour before dawn. There was supposed to be a light that could be seen for miles. The light was very faint and we decided to head back out to sea for an hour until daybreak. At first light, we headed around the reef and into Savusavu and picked up a mooring. On the way in, we saw a ferry leaving. It was the ferry Tom was supposed to catch for Suva. He was very disappointed to have missed it as we had heard there was only one ferry a week.<br />After Quarantine, Customs and Immigration, and Agriculture all came out to the boat and checked us in (all very friendly), the guy from Agriculture told us there was another ferry going that evening<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgONCvzNEX2dSTx1ZiI1FN9CxFlRsDTE7PcXdQZS64NReeJwhoE96hSiOfEe7i7NM9bv1ve2t2cxZHHtJmXt8slyL3-tQCtOET3zRkgUv7hStFjx_SH6CNnQqm9a-TEgNYE9HgFSqy-3wQ/s1600-h/P5192057+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgONCvzNEX2dSTx1ZiI1FN9CxFlRsDTE7PcXdQZS64NReeJwhoE96hSiOfEe7i7NM9bv1ve2t2cxZHHtJmXt8slyL3-tQCtOET3zRkgUv7hStFjx_SH6CNnQqm9a-TEgNYE9HgFSqy-3wQ/s320/P5192057+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5375569418263139714" border="0" /></a> <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYQyZIpSmXA_IPLRoTXC6qgsaEH_fCZ9WWkdqnoiU42DbJln_xr3o-0llpWLDtcKWp5ZY01eAsfo7HyXAdHg6OYGBJK3zUR4bG8sshT8j0PfQBuD8hApE3ltwDR8hfd1UBgRDXgl6uNZ4/s1600-h/P3190133+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYQyZIpSmXA_IPLRoTXC6qgsaEH_fCZ9WWkdqnoiU42DbJln_xr3o-0llpWLDtcKWp5ZY01eAsfo7HyXAdHg6OYGBJK3zUR4bG8sshT8j0PfQBuD8hApE3ltwDR8hfd1UBgRDXgl6uNZ4/s320/P3190133+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5375568855902152258" border="0" /></a>and took Tom down to the ferry office to get his ticket. Before he left that evening, we went to shore and had a wonderful curry meal and said our goodbyes to Tom. John also made up a certificate for him and Linda got his e-mail address and sent him pictures of the trip. Having Tom aboard for the crossing turned out to be a wonderful experience for all of us. Would we do it again? Probably not; we were lucky and don’t want to push our luck!<br />We will be returning to the states on May 22 in time to see granddaughters graduate from high school and to spend some quality time with family and friends. Our return to Fiji is scheduled for August 14.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEithwDWx-MLCBhD25WZV0F2TObOyL-eEcFT5uaskjkbqV_-2k_0dvic4s7lRmhwcRja9ZtTIFhhcRBHaRp_74ZEszQ36beZMx8S8wtUzMuUhntSlM94WCv-QQ7Wh2Hgd_q3WcS04ATKSHk/s1600-h/P5020174+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEithwDWx-MLCBhD25WZV0F2TObOyL-eEcFT5uaskjkbqV_-2k_0dvic4s7lRmhwcRja9ZtTIFhhcRBHaRp_74ZEszQ36beZMx8S8wtUzMuUhntSlM94WCv-QQ7Wh2Hgd_q3WcS04ATKSHk/s320/P5020174+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5375569407704827106" border="0" /></a>In the meantime,<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwnIuU41aUCQfPFXqYKnArzXQRZFqF7A3f6aadroC_yKVk0OLiLafummtoulTxxcU6IeWz1YmFLriXgU7CiVqm999gAT1-vYkUiNEgcoMOTTE89yfv2u0vsoCbfAlQz_bd_m0j-GZcdBQ/s1600-h/P5052012+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwnIuU41aUCQfPFXqYKnArzXQRZFqF7A3f6aadroC_yKVk0OLiLafummtoulTxxcU6IeWz1YmFLriXgU7CiVqm999gAT1-vYkUiNEgcoMOTTE89yfv2u0vsoCbfAlQz_bd_m0j-GZcdBQ/s320/P5052012+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5375569412315611922" border="0" /></a> we are exploring the different anchorages along the southeast coast of Vanua Levu. Right now we are in the company of two other boats. A few days ago, we visited a small village and presented savusavu (kava) and asked for permission to walk up the creek to the hot springs. We had an enjoyable hike through the rainforest and a nice sit in the warm pools and the creek when it got too hot. We met people in the village (all with the last name of Pickering) and were invited back. While walking back to through the village, we met a fellow walking up the gravel road who had been to a funeral in another village. Linda’s camera had quit working after a snorkel earlier in the day and she missed a great photo opportunity as <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaCthfO9zx9YVDrQ1MG02Y3hrh1MFJCj2zFcWLuBpxkYRVUL6mAlCbwiYwp3gIm1GDNsYjhZMEpx743VpOK8jvKwnmJjFJsoMNuq78JZ3Ze2o1UIReVeiGug0kEkhM8XKewUWX2f-2RxQ/s1600-h/P4290169+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaCthfO9zx9YVDrQ1MG02Y3hrh1MFJCj2zFcWLuBpxkYRVUL6mAlCbwiYwp3gIm1GDNsYjhZMEpx743VpOK8jvKwnmJjFJsoMNuq78JZ3Ze2o1UIReVeiGug0kEkhM8XKewUWX2f-2RxQ/s320/P4290169+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5375569093308294162" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqynjhnqBvfMceVTOAaoArbyp6V5sMmDoXexTXMlyjhOsbnOzZibTppe9fDy4rnIV24S0ssJRmrDfhqxY5Lni0w9XdloyyOIHJnES3IlsCKalydV2xYNWNRNjinFORtN1W2if0K1CIdrI/s1600-h/P4290148+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqynjhnqBvfMceVTOAaoArbyp6V5sMmDoXexTXMlyjhOsbnOzZibTppe9fDy4rnIV24S0ssJRmrDfhqxY5Lni0w9XdloyyOIHJnES3IlsCKalydV2xYNWNRNjinFORtN1W2if0K1CIdrI/s320/P4290148+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5375569089925876802" border="0" /></a>the fellow had two taro roots in one hand a cow leg over his shoulder (including fur and hoof). He told us that gifts of food are given to those people who attend the funeral and feast in honor of the person who died. He was bringing it home for his mother to cook.<br />Yesterday was spent on another boat swapping software, information on anchorages, and waypoints and tracks of where each boat had been. The reefs are many and<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikNdvAK2M0UcCbbd9uug79XLxdRKJ8TcfnrvvQH3XyJdW0X1RvtM6mT3OXMAELSRFEeeOu1OJ6KlEPhX9UAuHxFWH8KPeR1-qQXKUDRhPIJI94du78GhtK7Ei-HhvJHpGqTv51IU_YY5A/s1600-h/P4150158+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikNdvAK2M0UcCbbd9uug79XLxdRKJ8TcfnrvvQH3XyJdW0X1RvtM6mT3OXMAELSRFEeeOu1OJ6KlEPhX9UAuHxFWH8KPeR1-qQXKUDRhPIJI94du78GhtK7Ei-HhvJHpGqTv51IU_YY5A/s320/P4150158+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5375568862524881842" border="0" /></a> <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKzQisgC2AJTLTNaHuFmTS9N_h8qWK5Ys_Y672g_Vny38iciBuTD8_7zct8UprI8k7LraXmcX2ESB7Ff14iHxFDsPmDXOg-7OUb0fUP8VKB7Zk8-7gOAyVRlSF2hNzOnieYZLcGMKHfBg/s1600-h/P4150177+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKzQisgC2AJTLTNaHuFmTS9N_h8qWK5Ys_Y672g_Vny38iciBuTD8_7zct8UprI8k7LraXmcX2ESB7Ff14iHxFDsPmDXOg-7OUb0fUP8VKB7Zk8-7gOAyVRlSF2hNzOnieYZLcGMKHfBg/s320/P4150177+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5375568873356664690" border="0" /></a>treacherous in Fiji and<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAULfNSHa4donxVMwO8jxoxowX6gpe0DVonet2l1UmGE-RhRNH4JRz2ImRAsn5xbowopsToVe2d2qNrBXitxVqu1PfAwS3COJpoERpWZ5xItQPGF-WzHa5kCAUqbXOiVL8KTOx4JG6k-4/s1600-h/P4290170+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAULfNSHa4donxVMwO8jxoxowX6gpe0DVonet2l1UmGE-RhRNH4JRz2ImRAsn5xbowopsToVe2d2qNrBXitxVqu1PfAwS3COJpoERpWZ5xItQPGF-WzHa5kCAUqbXOiVL8KTOx4JG6k-4/s320/P4290170+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5375569106032580130" border="0" /></a> we all try to help each other out. There are always new things to share in the cruising world.<br />Linda & John<br />P.S. We got up to Viani Bay and met some of the Fisher family. Jack Fisher took us out to the famour Rainbow Reef for snorkeling and on an inland hike to a small settlement. We look forward to our return to Fiji so that we can dive the White Wall, The Purple Wall and The Zoo. Our time in Fiji is limited by the government, which is now run by the military since last year’s coup. There is so much to see and do here and so little time! We may end up sailing to the country of Fortuna, which is a two-day trip over, and two days back just to be able to stay in Fiji longer.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpbuAjWWGIjET-C_NiKfH6Ea3WScgGyGsYBy0cbGpRy98gR4_aVe6olIGrSr-yZ3XkEVhFipwmjkmbCDH9VsyhmyFlg0CUaVtGVtqRre755zTP9RT9QDZitA5-loJAOeJevoxPhHV_UBo/s1600-h/P4260127+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpbuAjWWGIjET-C_NiKfH6Ea3WScgGyGsYBy0cbGpRy98gR4_aVe6olIGrSr-yZ3XkEVhFipwmjkmbCDH9VsyhmyFlg0CUaVtGVtqRre755zTP9RT9QDZitA5-loJAOeJevoxPhHV_UBo/s320/P4260127+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5375569082394572514" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLfrDJWc7R8JqAzpI9dBN99yiinFc4JOfUbdcp5TsQaY0NxismhefgT9k1Fg04KmojjLM917UGT_aXKbUvaNOaInc0UlTZt10ed5630fDuqW6fZv4AO3KPiJPQH5G0t7YAOT_bqQHa5HE/s1600-h/P4150207+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLfrDJWc7R8JqAzpI9dBN99yiinFc4JOfUbdcp5TsQaY0NxismhefgT9k1Fg04KmojjLM917UGT_aXKbUvaNOaInc0UlTZt10ed5630fDuqW6fZv4AO3KPiJPQH5G0t7YAOT_bqQHa5HE/s320/P4150207+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5375569076805632162" border="0" /></a><input id="gwProxy" type="hidden"><!--Session data--><input onclick="jsCall();" id="jsProxy" type="hidden"><div id="refHTML"></div><input id="gwProxy" type="hidden"><!--Session data--><input onclick="jsCall();" id="jsProxy" type="hidden"><div id="refHTML"></div><input id="gwProxy" type="hidden"><!--Session data--><input onclick="jsCall();" id="jsProxy" type="hidden"><div id="refHTML"></div><input id="gwProxy" type="hidden"><!--Session data--><input onclick="jsCall();" id="jsProxy" type="hidden"><div id="refHTML"></div>About John and Lindahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09804781596879702975noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-919823168408227838.post-23876100178766419202007-12-31T05:27:00.000+12:002009-09-11T12:06:16.746+12:00HAWKEYE HAPPENINGS, December, 2007HAWKEYE HAPPENINGS, December 2007<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiahaqLhgXjSqDsQIaChlnMzUk66ORUyjSi726mGTH-Lr4udDbFFeXmbhLmjFkNq-yooalLFG4oESTTHahCUW6330nsvyxTxKcKsJ4CMxZ8uGIZ9TIYGfwKwEvu00C9lgVx82wyocVgluc/s1600-h/PA130046_edited+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; 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float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgs2ZG5RVNEQfXCmtsSmdCgFY-FEDTKTwOPxDpwW3QTcKLlio1oixM-Yr6kohNSQz3i4GlS4BxRS6YaWKFKEFXqlES4_gYIAjZtiOi9EM5DpUCxbPT4SRxvbYNHQBuLe-bG1g3MFegMWoQ/s320/PA130032_edited+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5375425740735568722" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYp7juf-YYpCdOiIZeW3XeIyo2kquFs5rpvHy9DZQ1sny7iqr6IYVX3H54Q3qIDe0sayuROBLJL3gqxzPveOG0xD6ABtUIl-C9Nxnmu70x_Y64k3lwT3CUDsGdsx-6TJRkvdj_3Ro9dp0/s1600-h/P9090013+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYp7juf-YYpCdOiIZeW3XeIyo2kquFs5rpvHy9DZQ1sny7iqr6IYVX3H54Q3qIDe0sayuROBLJL3gqxzPveOG0xD6ABtUIl-C9Nxnmu70x_Y64k3lwT3CUDsGdsx-6TJRkvdj_3Ro9dp0/s320/P9090013+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5375425524228962642" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjajnII5p0RkH3z-Q_Q9jmH6Zl8qKNPTwqBa5cjb9vyY2PWkE5o_FcSjXnylhrcXVyYe9qTDw4yVs11ER4IDsUfhO9u2nw0t-t84yvJ3qflaY0ArPa5_cj9hVjmyhhoyGiTv8601cWlYx8/s1600-h/P2170092+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjajnII5p0RkH3z-Q_Q9jmH6Zl8qKNPTwqBa5cjb9vyY2PWkE5o_FcSjXnylhrcXVyYe9qTDw4yVs11ER4IDsUfhO9u2nw0t-t84yvJ3qflaY0ArPa5_cj9hVjmyhhoyGiTv8601cWlYx8/s320/P2170092+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5375425501694625682" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjU-ZpdwU-fuF6LAfVOpVpuTej25feG1qkYHYxph2Puv_iagK88CPCUT89_IG4Cqhy6BuUWQRLdfA0V2lLzg2dZQSu2m7gHnHq_ZSTcxbby_JN9YJKmb4an4wiaB8WuTzR6V1Yajn_aeQA/s1600-h/P1270057+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjU-ZpdwU-fuF6LAfVOpVpuTej25feG1qkYHYxph2Puv_iagK88CPCUT89_IG4Cqhy6BuUWQRLdfA0V2lLzg2dZQSu2m7gHnHq_ZSTcxbby_JN9YJKmb4an4wiaB8WuTzR6V1Yajn_aeQA/s320/P1270057+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5375425278399828450" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjY-Rp1aDx6tYt7M4008WnuiRl6XZYimnjTSFYRKjn5Mvv1QDKidaV0ADVmXw0ARragLEj3fBkVRgHlspIA5UyHR8pd3Er2GII8zrESDOucUwV08lD81whuNrGyCWCrqYCbypY1ZpuwbQo/s1600-h/PC120012_edited+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgs2ZG5RVNEQfXCmtsSmdCgFY-FEDTKTwOPxDpwW3QTcKLlio1oixM-Yr6kohNSQz3i4GlS4BxRS6YaWKFKEFXqlES4_gYIAjZtiOi9EM5DpUCxbPT4SRxvbYNHQBuLe-bG1g3MFegMWoQ/s1600-h/PA130032_edited+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYp7juf-YYpCdOiIZeW3XeIyo2kquFs5rpvHy9DZQ1sny7iqr6IYVX3H54Q3qIDe0sayuROBLJL3gqxzPveOG0xD6ABtUIl-C9Nxnmu70x_Y64k3lwT3CUDsGdsx-6TJRkvdj_3Ro9dp0/s1600-h/P9090013+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjajnII5p0RkH3z-Q_Q9jmH6Zl8qKNPTwqBa5cjb9vyY2PWkE5o_FcSjXnylhrcXVyYe9qTDw4yVs11ER4IDsUfhO9u2nw0t-t84yvJ3qflaY0ArPa5_cj9hVjmyhhoyGiTv8601cWlYx8/s1600-h/P2170092+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjU-ZpdwU-fuF6LAfVOpVpuTej25feG1qkYHYxph2Puv_iagK88CPCUT89_IG4Cqhy6BuUWQRLdfA0V2lLzg2dZQSu2m7gHnHq_ZSTcxbby_JN9YJKmb4an4wiaB8WuTzR6V1Yajn_aeQA/s1600-h/P1270057+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoQJ97zTAY0xHYH5eEG3rth-RVsaCRioVIwoa5yIMEavugcaLAuyexmxHtpsEoCGvEAfXmpEBILnoW7xhT-j9gxhYpFwJpWBgKxKweXXjl88Xybih0cqVtNliC59ZWXBO3fAIM-hk_O9o/s1600-h/PC300078+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoQJ97zTAY0xHYH5eEG3rth-RVsaCRioVIwoa5yIMEavugcaLAuyexmxHtpsEoCGvEAfXmpEBILnoW7xhT-j9gxhYpFwJpWBgKxKweXXjl88Xybih0cqVtNliC59ZWXBO3fAIM-hk_O9o/s320/PC300078+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5375426015832125810" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2GYnYwCrvL_loHYdB_oOGlh9XPWYA4LrDf6THBaYTsyDLbxnNx7nyA0VsL9sAV7WEDL9cCfoanWIRHvLt2jD7hbIIVL-tKR-3uApwULVzAC-JnlVzBcuTTxUw64pQbvkpxsz5pws0q9A/s1600-h/PC290048+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2GYnYwCrvL_loHYdB_oOGlh9XPWYA4LrDf6THBaYTsyDLbxnNx7nyA0VsL9sAV7WEDL9cCfoanWIRHvLt2jD7hbIIVL-tKR-3uApwULVzAC-JnlVzBcuTTxUw64pQbvkpxsz5pws0q9A/s320/PC290048+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5375426007923703202" border="0" /></a><br />After the cruising fleet left for New Zealand, there remained just a handful of cruisers planning to spend the season here. Most of the time, we had beautiful anchorages to ourselves or shared with another boat. We did a lot of snorkeling in the warm, clear water and there were always boat projects to work on. Sailing around the islands of the archipelago was easy, protected from the ocean swells by the barrier reef. For Thanksgiving, we shared a turkey and all the trimmings that we could improvise with two other boats at a beautiful anchorage under a gorgeous sunset. All this after an afternoon snorkel <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifgD5zWowmIy0TjeDL6Uelp2cUNmaDjo5ifUFwhn19Bs8hSwOuI-Kgs1_IgcwnBuFF6oc20UvPiMLtcudubSSBvmIzDp1qr4gVdL9AsPf-0ZqWdVn-ijRsY4BtdmGom7rwmN1QL7PoSTQ/s1600-h/PC260040+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifgD5zWowmIy0TjeDL6Uelp2cUNmaDjo5ifUFwhn19Bs8hSwOuI-Kgs1_IgcwnBuFF6oc20UvPiMLtcudubSSBvmIzDp1qr4gVdL9AsPf-0ZqWdVn-ijRsY4BtdmGom7rwmN1QL7PoSTQ/s320/PC260040+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5375426005211883618" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMEa6qRQRwuhE9y7QJqDTaGanDs4JSfAN_Z4GvQWlI2TY-pwUz5ABMBlVhGD6dwojM4OGAWb3D5L6qmRbuOQq5JaTKhP9N8cpRC-SkBt7nE5HCLwxRHuiGXl7yyx1kEpfuq11tlPJG8x0/s1600-h/PC250077+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMEa6qRQRwuhE9y7QJqDTaGanDs4JSfAN_Z4GvQWlI2TY-pwUz5ABMBlVhGD6dwojM4OGAWb3D5L6qmRbuOQq5JaTKhP9N8cpRC-SkBt7nE5HCLwxRHuiGXl7yyx1kEpfuq11tlPJG8x0/s320/PC250077+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5375426001915450370" border="0" /></a>communing with the fish! Christmas was spent in much the same way. We explored several anchorages, hiked on uninhabited islands and visited remote villages. The Moorings Company has a fleet of boats for charter here and we strongly recommend this area as a great place to charter.<br /><br />In February, we decided to fly down to New Zealand. We were gone 5 ½ weeks exploring both the north and south islands. We were fortunate enough to rent a car with our cruising friend Cindy and her Dad, Dennis, who was visiting from the states. Poor Bob, Cindy’s partner, had to work. New Zealand’s north island was a lot like California in the winter with green rolling hills, beaches and even large Kauri trees the equivalent of the Coast Redwoods.<br /><br />The south island, however, was quite different. Much more dramatic with fjords, glaciers, beautiful lakes, dramatic coast lines and about a five day weather system that comes from the Tasman Sea bringing high winds, rain, followed by a few days of beautiful weather. Timing is everything! 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float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 255px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNf8w3IToTBPKznA6Iqt7uTOBnkZnCzL6y0yNK1Vw-KBdMWVMO5cDkwmJD-e2GvDQ86LPb-L4JXx7UAJDvqq8WDazhjfyUpswWiOYCqqUOxpA5NXw7tal53v7PgCTlfPsq6lseXQ2QIPU/s320/P2201623+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5375425511156507586" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaN6HiCvcvrLcNfLH9eIeBn7y0Fsi1UpEh_AgFk1FIpO8Tw96edNgDO1KEZgz6YpacU1dV4pvf1UawyTVZkY556dwxnT5AXk8wjeTy4pPUCFAxJhznq7xkCp6WCd6ya9UMKeRDvhYVaAU/s1600-h/P2171610+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaN6HiCvcvrLcNfLH9eIeBn7y0Fsi1UpEh_AgFk1FIpO8Tw96edNgDO1KEZgz6YpacU1dV4pvf1UawyTVZkY556dwxnT5AXk8wjeTy4pPUCFAxJhznq7xkCp6WCd6ya9UMKeRDvhYVaAU/s320/P2171610+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5375425506107620130" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbVPjYAIPr0LuGwLA2b-tOdMHDXSLV56UKroNsRZkFhHxGndu8gfSJZQME7zTJ8oTO22ldcpv2Vk5EOjANQjtign6blvvwWlmsxbKY-2g3aiurPQJ4wD0Lh_tKTsHMJFtoRM_53SATk2Y/s1600-h/P1010001+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbVPjYAIPr0LuGwLA2b-tOdMHDXSLV56UKroNsRZkFhHxGndu8gfSJZQME7zTJ8oTO22ldcpv2Vk5EOjANQjtign6blvvwWlmsxbKY-2g3aiurPQJ4wD0Lh_tKTsHMJFtoRM_53SATk2Y/s320/P1010001+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5375425259533877122" border="0" /></a>were working up to their major goal of completing the 4-day Routeburn Track, one of New Zealand’s Great Walks. Linda did a lot of kayaking and some parasailing and canyoning while the rest of the group did the big hike. They had made reservations over a month in advance as only a certain number can be on the trail at one time and the huts are of limited capacity. As it turned out, their timing was not good as they had two days of stormy weather, with winds gusting to 90 Km/hr and torrential rain on the most exposed part of the track. They did the hike anyway and really enjoyed it. New Zealand is geared for tourists and we stayed in backpacker hostels. These are really inexpensive and well organized for the travelers with all types of rooms with or without private bath, full community kitchens and loads of information on what to do and see. It was a great experience and fun to watch everyone sharing a kitchen, pots and pans, giving each other “leftovers” and sharing experiences with people from all over the world.<br /><br />We returned to Tonga mid-March and in April, on the opening day of the Vava’u Yacht Club, we entered HAWKEYE in the first race of the season. The last time we raced Hawkeye was in the Banderas Bay Regatta in Puerto Villarta, Mexico back in 2001. Apparently, we hadn’t lost our racing skills as we managed to take first place. As we were usually out at anchorages, we didn’t race the rest of the season as we didn’t want to give up a good peaceful anchorage to go back to “town” and besides, we might not be so lucky to win again…<br /><br />The end of April, Linda went back to the states to visit with family and John returned to the states in June. It was a hectic time trying to visit with family and friends after being gone 2 years and the grandkids had sure grown up!<br /><br />After promising the grandkids that we would be back next summer, we returned to HAWKEYE with heavily laden suitcases full of boat parts. The plan was to get HAWKEYE ready for a jump of a mere 440 miles to Fiji after we got our bottom painted, new batteries, new dinghy engine and other miscellaneous things we had ordered from New Zealand back in April. Those items finally arrived - in October! While checking over the rigging, John discovered that we had some broken wire strands. He managed to do a jury rig temporary fix so that we could continue to sail in the protected waters inside the reef but we did not want to risk the ocean swells that really work the rig during the crossing to Fiji. We ordered new rigging from New Zealand and settled in to await its arrival.<br /><br />In the meantime, we continued to enjoy the many anchorages in the Vava’u Group of Tonga. We managed to do some scuba diving, which was wonderful, and when we are at anchorages, we do a daily snorkel. When provisioning in the village of Nieafu, we visit with friends and enjoy having a meal out. It is always an adventure provisioning, as you never know what will be in the stores and market. Right now, pineapples are ripe and we are getting the beautiful tasty fruit for 1Tongan Pa’anga, which is $0.50 USD. On the other hand, it would be wonderful to get a head of lettuce and have a real salad!<br /><br />We continue to wait for our new rigging that we were promised would be air-freighted from New Zealand, but which is now held up by Customs in the capital, Nukua’lofa. They want to charge us an excessive amount of tax and duty (normally, boat parts for Yachts-in-Transit are exempt from duty, but the Government is desperate for additional revenue.) We are having quite an argument with Customs. Once we get the rigging and install it, we will then have to monitor the weather more closely to make a safe passage to Fiji. As we enter the cyclone season, weather is becoming a bigger issue. In fact, as I write this, the first named storm of the season, Tropical Cyclone Daman, is bearing down on Fiji, with over 100 kts of wind, and is expected to hit Tonga in a few days.<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3-CZyNeROedf0pyLtmjPtGO92GjSR7r9MefwGHaddmWo_13N1HT5GBfkzFE86wC5WnqNvXN06wNJmt2YIZyledNEbHRuZuZ7TL9nqAsueJnvaRuyrDgDoZyJ_tY4aQhzqc2PZvUTbUew/s1600-h/PC230052+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3-CZyNeROedf0pyLtmjPtGO92GjSR7r9MefwGHaddmWo_13N1HT5GBfkzFE86wC5WnqNvXN06wNJmt2YIZyledNEbHRuZuZ7TL9nqAsueJnvaRuyrDgDoZyJ_tY4aQhzqc2PZvUTbUew/s320/PC230052+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5375425996750907746" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcQs4q4XqgE2lV-fsjPzqIwxgCXFDd7MQxGi85oVqLRmiwBO0P89FhbO3cfs4hiGlg1b1Kjb0y4cvxmgXzQM2hdzdwz3XIK_YczfOSeEBTfp2heBm2vTR4bL4t2fqWJT33K1CctSvo0tg/s1600-h/PC130042_edited+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcQs4q4XqgE2lV-fsjPzqIwxgCXFDd7MQxGi85oVqLRmiwBO0P89FhbO3cfs4hiGlg1b1Kjb0y4cvxmgXzQM2hdzdwz3XIK_YczfOSeEBTfp2heBm2vTR4bL4t2fqWJT33K1CctSvo0tg/s320/PC130042_edited+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5375425754415355298" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivpcAhJc2CQ-7453AI6HGhmaV3gbcIf_xpEyJlDJGsEuVjySDxWiK-341rjcnHm-mS3MhExsd1CBuHAJOYnawqSsCrSj-4UAd-JUmkLcFHRQzRFXA5_J01OtjMD7hjmVbvDzAja536unk/s1600-h/P1240045+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivpcAhJc2CQ-7453AI6HGhmaV3gbcIf_xpEyJlDJGsEuVjySDxWiK-341rjcnHm-mS3MhExsd1CBuHAJOYnawqSsCrSj-4UAd-JUmkLcFHRQzRFXA5_J01OtjMD7hjmVbvDzAja536unk/s320/P1240045+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5375425274757437058" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEVv4NS2riTKpcErRZ_4n1RQuv6TTztQCNyffNCv9GqqDiG_6P2Q4hQc-6SSgTYN93hZFiqzDv9eH90BkRk5ibII-id2oUsRVmQ54u4LNVAruxMKGCz90Jf1yvMMl8Se4Z_4jwqFrllvc/s1600-h/Lionfiish+2+%5B320x200%5D.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEVv4NS2riTKpcErRZ_4n1RQuv6TTztQCNyffNCv9GqqDiG_6P2Q4hQc-6SSgTYN93hZFiqzDv9eH90BkRk5ibII-id2oUsRVmQ54u4LNVAruxMKGCz90Jf1yvMMl8Se4Z_4jwqFrllvc/s320/Lionfiish+2+%5B320x200%5D.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5375425029645863090" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFM88ghQdPtul1SdhDni4CFKP6MZCoupfkfwWcjvefacyWO2M35m_arujBznfiRs03lNObbnPHUJTspOipONEw02kchwG3BP2WpLGWuQdRXO8_RjW5R8sOs3pWmMPQC6IRRnwsc5dMeok/s1600-h/anemone+%5B320x200%5D.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFM88ghQdPtul1SdhDni4CFKP6MZCoupfkfwWcjvefacyWO2M35m_arujBznfiRs03lNObbnPHUJTspOipONEw02kchwG3BP2WpLGWuQdRXO8_RjW5R8sOs3pWmMPQC6IRRnwsc5dMeok/s320/anemone+%5B320x200%5D.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5375424641173816978" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXhdXOf0uluiT25s-7nbkdIbpOBzcIsIawQVQY6coNbza3cl_fcd2PZuBibfsD2IIwupoom7PQcxlLdBu1c9jj8xGsDiwCgwCrJEU3OSgNhCzX_L-1n71ItacrdGZNU4ZcSi29hg6Z0XM/s1600-h/Blue+Star+%5B320x200%5D.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXhdXOf0uluiT25s-7nbkdIbpOBzcIsIawQVQY6coNbza3cl_fcd2PZuBibfsD2IIwupoom7PQcxlLdBu1c9jj8xGsDiwCgwCrJEU3OSgNhCzX_L-1n71ItacrdGZNU4ZcSi29hg6Z0XM/s320/Blue+Star+%5B320x200%5D.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5375424648482177170" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Today, John is trying to get our propane stove to work properly until we can get to a place where we can buy a new one. HAWKEYE is now 23 years old and shows her age when things like the stove have to be replaced. The warm, salt-water environment in the Tropics creates havoc with most materials used on boats. John is putting his mechanical abilities to the test constantly to keep HAWKEYE running by improvising parts, none of which are available in Tonga. I don’t know how people that don’t have this gift manage to keep their boats going in places where there are no experts to hire to fix the problems that arise and there are no parts available. This is probably the biggest reason that people eventually give up the cruising life. John had his 74th birthday October 18 and, thankfully, he continues to enjoy good health. We celebrated with pizza and cake aboard a friend’s trimaran, a boat the size and shape of a small tennis court, which is great for parties!<br /><br />As the holiday season approaches, we wish you all a glorious time. We don’t miss the hustle and bustle of life in the U.S. but prefer a quiet anchorage with a beautiful sunset. What we do miss is family and friends. So, send us an e-mail and tell us what you are doing!<br /><br />Linda Keigher & John Kelly, s/v HAWKEYE, Nieafu, Vava’u, Kingdom of Tonga<br /><br /><br /><br /><input id="gwProxy" type="hidden"><!--Session data--><input onclick="jsCall();" id="jsProxy" type="hidden"><div id="refHTML"></div><input id="gwProxy" type="hidden"><!--Session data--><input onclick="jsCall();" id="jsProxy" type="hidden"><div id="refHTML"></div><input id="gwProxy" type="hidden"><!--Session data--><input onclick="jsCall();" id="jsProxy" type="hidden"><div id="refHTML"></div><input id="gwProxy" type="hidden"><!--Session data--><input onclick="jsCall();" id="jsProxy" type="hidden"><div id="refHTML"></div><input id="gwProxy" type="hidden"><!--Session data--><input onclick="jsCall();" id="jsProxy" type="hidden"><div id="refHTML"></div><input id="gwProxy" type="hidden"><!--Session data--><input onclick="jsCall();" id="jsProxy" type="hidden"><div id="refHTML"></div><input id="gwProxy" type="hidden"><!--Session data--><input onclick="jsCall();" id="jsProxy" type="hidden"><div id="refHTML"></div>About John and Lindahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09804781596879702975noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-919823168408227838.post-6216967042815891972006-11-30T05:25:00.000+12:002009-09-11T12:07:42.107+12:00HAWKEYE HAPPENINGS, November, 2006HAWKEYE HAPPENINGS, NOVEMBER 2006<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1NEmyohGyz7m0vMAh0KdeErafQYEjnCwz8USQjiEnnwR6__T2dLC1dGqlnZd0_PecPHxJRv-e-jDcchZeVAhFkagtxkQAgc2DMNdwWpcp8aG9BApN_q6YOazUDW0b5aws46K1nlMzWoM/s1600-h/South+Pacific+129+%5B320x200%5D.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1NEmyohGyz7m0vMAh0KdeErafQYEjnCwz8USQjiEnnwR6__T2dLC1dGqlnZd0_PecPHxJRv-e-jDcchZeVAhFkagtxkQAgc2DMNdwWpcp8aG9BApN_q6YOazUDW0b5aws46K1nlMzWoM/s320/South+Pacific+129+%5B320x200%5D.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5375386685844109634" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Our stay in American Samoa was a month long; it always takes longer to clear in and out than one expects. We enjoyed our stay there even though the harbor is filled with garbage when it rains and when the wind blows from the east, which it usually does, we got the smell of baking fish. Starkist Tuna has its processing factory here and it provides employment for most of the people living on the island. The island itself is very beautiful but seems to draw bad weather.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgzaOolBbk5eU6QVh-GHyw3Cg2kdCNTRz9CCTPjscEJC4t5hAa1eWECcdb7aqVJIPdEEcc5l2JzuhBoetgG28Ksxys33JbaaTlnXzSlQlxKBSXus1GNKeeCaaP3zxQjWllSGhMUkioubM/s1600-h/South+Pacific+130+%5B320x200%5D.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgzaOolBbk5eU6QVh-GHyw3Cg2kdCNTRz9CCTPjscEJC4t5hAa1eWECcdb7aqVJIPdEEcc5l2JzuhBoetgG28Ksxys33JbaaTlnXzSlQlxKBSXus1GNKeeCaaP3zxQjWllSGhMUkioubM/s320/South+Pacific+130+%5B320x200%5D.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5375386688852010930" border="0" /></a>We had a wonderful tour of the island one day with some other cruisers and were able to go from one end to the other. It was on “White Sunday” which is a day set aside to honor children. The day consisted of the family dressing all in white and, after attending church, sitting down to a very large meal and then sleeping away most of the afternoon with another meal in the evening. Samoan people are quite large, very friendly and most eager to help in any way. They stop you on the street and ask if they can help in any way.<br /><br />It was nice to visit a store similar to Costco/Sam’s Club and stock up on some of<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyTWTvcee91yVR2WK59np1ZtWK5kaiSS1isVS6CW2IzfqGztj15_j6k3mqTCA97Mqo0nKTjP6Hse0XOjRUQm4T8v83R0VRo45xMtnDeHNMtl2e3uey_ZrhJS03rm3PPVpLB31JU5E2tag/s1600-h/South+Pacific+128+%5B320x200%5D.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyTWTvcee91yVR2WK59np1ZtWK5kaiSS1isVS6CW2IzfqGztj15_j6k3mqTCA97Mqo0nKTjP6Hse0XOjRUQm4T8v83R0VRo45xMtnDeHNMtl2e3uey_ZrhJS03rm3PPVpLB31JU5E2tag/s320/South+Pacific+128+%5B320x200%5D.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5375386680979620546" border="0" /></a> those luxury items like hamburger, cranberry juice, sliced turkey, bacon, corn on the cob, snacks and ohhhh those baby carrots!<br /><br />When we first entered the anchorage, we saw a boat we had known in Mexico several years ago, KUMFY. The next day the owner, Mitch Hart, dropped by to say hello and told us he and Rise had been in American Samoa for 5 years. Mitch is an engineer working on a major remodeling of the LBJ hospital and Rise is working for the National Park Service. We visited with them at least twice a week. Mitch begged John to come work for him for a year as he is in desperate need of engineering help to complete the job. He said it would be no problem getting Linda a job at one of the local banks. We said thanks, but no thanks. We are too old to go back to work! We want to keep cruising before we have to give it up.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSjQIoYg8cBKHuEddoGLcLfB30muEQECeoiJ9T_JatOHN8ro8W-fcToztu6nt8Z1epQbEXQ_43pwl-Gx-WeuxW8VXjHQ-1hJtONGT3x4R4CpHy5SBASrmD2KSRUFi6E-o8jKj4O_nwqvw/s1600-h/South+Pacific+116+%5B320x200%5D.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSjQIoYg8cBKHuEddoGLcLfB30muEQECeoiJ9T_JatOHN8ro8W-fcToztu6nt8Z1epQbEXQ_43pwl-Gx-WeuxW8VXjHQ-1hJtONGT3x4R4CpHy5SBASrmD2KSRUFi6E-o8jKj4O_nwqvw/s320/South+Pacific+116+%5B320x200%5D.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5375386675092008066" border="0" /></a>One day four of us cruisers decided we would try making one of the local dishes. We went to the market and bought taro leaves, onions, and coconut to make the dish. Two of us were busy washing the taro leaves and a small piece of one broke off of the leaf Linda was washing. She put this small piece, about the size of a little fingernail in her mouth and chewed it and swallowed. Immediately, it felt like she had eaten fiberglass. The feeling of little tiny splinters under her tongue and down her throat. Turcan, one of the other cruisers who is from Turkey, took a small bite as she couldn’t believe what Linda was saying and had the same problem. Gert, from Denmark, took a big bite and his wife Carolyn took a small bite. We all had the same reaction. The only thing that would help was a piece of bread and large glasses of water. We then looked on the Internet and learned that you should NEVER eat raw taro leaves, as there are calcium “splinters” which go away when the taro is cooked. We cooked the taro and it was very good but it sure was a painful learning experience.<br /><br />Another day we took a bus over to the other side of the island to a small village and walked out on a rocky point that was quite beautiful but very warm. We walked through a forested area and found several papaya trees that obviously did not belong to anyone as we could see that the birds were eating the ripened fruit. So we picked a few papayas and headed <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeusasy0wugSPKqiN2nVnNUJFdg6gPXfQFPp5eE4uWWLTxmgeXvIZr1Ll1jd4U-cmB_0kmyHokCFoOi016Ox4d_3cS60ZEtwU5IxGF0-MPK3Bba_DSO4cBKvwixLULVmgsE1-FSHxekqs/s1600-h/south+pacific+275+%5B320x200%5D.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeusasy0wugSPKqiN2nVnNUJFdg6gPXfQFPp5eE4uWWLTxmgeXvIZr1Ll1jd4U-cmB_0kmyHokCFoOi016Ox4d_3cS60ZEtwU5IxGF0-MPK3Bba_DSO4cBKvwixLULVmgsE1-FSHxekqs/s320/south+pacific+275+%5B320x200%5D.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5375386690569508114" border="0" /></a>back to the place where the bus driver said he would pick us up. While waiting for the bus, a fellow that had been on the bus on the way over to the village invited us for lunch at his home. We declined, as we had wanted to get back as we knew another boat we had met in Costa Rica was coming in and was only stopping (they thought) for one night. So we missed an experience that could have been fun but one never knows. At the bus stop we met a woman with a little girl about 2 years old. We talked and told her of the man inviting us to lunch. She said that is very common in Samoa. She was the daughter of the chief of the village and was taking her daughter to the doctor for a checkup. Her daughter’s name is Amazing Grace and she has a twin brother named Mercy. Obviously the church is very important to the people of Samoa!<br /><br />On the way back, we asked the bus driver to let us off at the top of the mountain pass. We wanted to have a leisurely<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCsGHfy1oMdPebR7w7IwIrrl1ilnkoNiSUBWeRirU3cUOupu0OvHHP5PKVbJzEEtBVcpuFvTzXjuN-tInrzdWK16cNCjdfotKFiJHXDjmVG_OFRp58fYUGNRi1MuEMk-17ZnqbsOYqqrs/s1600-h/PA130023+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCsGHfy1oMdPebR7w7IwIrrl1ilnkoNiSUBWeRirU3cUOupu0OvHHP5PKVbJzEEtBVcpuFvTzXjuN-tInrzdWK16cNCjdfotKFiJHXDjmVG_OFRp58fYUGNRi1MuEMk-17ZnqbsOYqqrs/s320/PA130023+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5375385849994678498" border="0" /></a> view from the top down into the bay and surrounding mountains and lush valleys. It was a beautiful sight but we had a very steep hike down the mountain. A few days later, Linda met the woman with the little girl in the post office. She asked how we had gotten back to Pago Pago and we said we walked down the hill. She was quite amazed that we had done that. She also told us that her daughter kept talking about the “palangis” she had met, meaning us. Palangi is used quite frequently to describe a “white” person versus a native in many of the islands.<br /><br />We had finally received our packages from the U. S. via the good old US post office and waited several days for a good weather window. John checked the GRIB files (computer-generated surface wind and pressure maps), the net weather, and local radio weather. Finally, they all <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjN_R2Fq1NjNZz5p60_nq5Tp3YRJRfc_4Ddla6rdekEzBD9rGNQOCi7ieNV8X_jTi4oClnsl8ekTvx06uEiZuoLNqlu4Rs0g32bUNyLhxk1jo5TSl-IR7mQEcf-H0w0v9EySmaplep2azs/s1600-h/Shipping+Watermellon+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 312px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjN_R2Fq1NjNZz5p60_nq5Tp3YRJRfc_4Ddla6rdekEzBD9rGNQOCi7ieNV8X_jTi4oClnsl8ekTvx06uEiZuoLNqlu4Rs0g32bUNyLhxk1jo5TSl-IR7mQEcf-H0w0v9EySmaplep2azs/s320/Shipping+Watermellon+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5375386238008130706" border="0" /></a>agreed that it was a good time to go the 375 miles to the Vava’u Group of Tonga. We had squalls in the harbor on the way out of Pago Pago, which were quite common, and headed out to the open ocean where we again had squalls with torrential rain (at least, it was warm rain!). We figured once we were away from the island, the weather would improve as all the forecasts had predicted. That was the roughest 375-mile passage we have ever had! As it turned out, a convergence zone (low pressure trough) had moved south over Samoa and followed us all the way down to Tonga. All our friends followed <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEwz0Y2ih7BckvhEcWKAJSQ6HD3RpFjlPEHyFVr2mQNUjq1BByUa6vJIVQ8Sf7GJxToDGTafPdb-8n6SpKgIOp2hbWUR-N3QEgaJzJCIco5m0TA6BVKZHJP6_tt9XOSKlyWI4YdClO-fs/s1600-h/Picture+061+%5B320x200%5D.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEwz0Y2ih7BckvhEcWKAJSQ6HD3RpFjlPEHyFVr2mQNUjq1BByUa6vJIVQ8Sf7GJxToDGTafPdb-8n6SpKgIOp2hbWUR-N3QEgaJzJCIco5m0TA6BVKZHJP6_tt9XOSKlyWI4YdClO-fs/s320/Picture+061+%5B320x200%5D.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5375386234923945170" border="0" /></a>our progress on the radio nets and were happy when we arrived safely, as were we. So much for paying such close attention to the weather forecasts…<br /><br />The talk of Vava’u was all about weather as everyone was waiting for the “Go” to head to New Zealand. We just wanted to lick our wounds and settled in for a rest. Our “wounds” included the breaking of the genoa’s roller furling line while the sail was reefed way down due to the high winds and seas. Getting the wildly flogging sail down in those conditions was not a piece of cake but we finally managed it and raised the storm jib in its stead. This slowed us down somewhat, and we lost several miles towards our destination by running off downwind. We did not want to be out in those big seas and 25-30 knot winds another night and happily made it in to a wonderfully calm anchorage just b<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZg-WHAZ-jja5SpdZbil4cVkUQblQLxpZie47vp6EbRXejuGVKttt3ZLkau016ED5RJJ51Z9XJzfIYa60SsLgPT7qiYZCcYF6YoTm-_Ujirj4E9shk2kdXw1ug1G9lTpSvIV03Wg7Q7sA/s1600-h/PC210018+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZg-WHAZ-jja5SpdZbil4cVkUQblQLxpZie47vp6EbRXejuGVKttt3ZLkau016ED5RJJ51Z9XJzfIYa60SsLgPT7qiYZCcYF6YoTm-_Ujirj4E9shk2kdXw1ug1G9lTpSvIV03Wg7Q7sA/s320/PC210018+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5375386223836036946" border="0" /></a>efore dark. The other “wound” was a problem that we didn’t find out until we were safely in the anchorage. When John went up the mast to replace our flag halyard, he found small cracks in the lower spreaders. This was the same problem that kept HAWKEYE from going to the South Pacific back in ’97.<br /><br />So, once again our plans have changed. We are not able to go on to New Zealand until we get new spreaders installed. We can order the new spreaders but are not inclined to do so now. If you have been listening to the news of the Kingdom of Tonga, a feudal monarchy in which the King appoints ten of the fourteen cabinet ministers and the hereditary nobility the remainder, you will know that “pro-democracy” rioting recently took place two hundred miles south of here in Nuku’alofa, the capital of the Kingdom.<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsnj3mBX_xg_zCDQ-ggEHt4qKMbMPFn2vcDZrNQ_L17ASrAHhTdKrmwEYaG316IN8dRbpcB2HmpMIJ7nPelqAG43GArqdHRNpAE_BgEzHyveO6dcQnfOmgc97LWYbSCmYs0gWpXv8QhG4/s1600-h/PA180003+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsnj3mBX_xg_zCDQ-ggEHt4qKMbMPFn2vcDZrNQ_L17ASrAHhTdKrmwEYaG316IN8dRbpcB2HmpMIJ7nPelqAG43GArqdHRNpAE_BgEzHyveO6dcQnfOmgc97LWYbSCmYs0gWpXv8QhG4/s320/PA180003+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5375386215167012818" border="0" /></a> We are in Neiafu, Vava’u Group, in the northern islands, which is the second largest city in Tonga. With 80% of Nuku’alofa’s central business district burned to the ground, there is very little business going on so getting anything sent in (everything has to go through Nuku’alofa), is next to impossible. Linda’s daughter, Trish, sent Linda’s prescriptions the day before the coup started and we are still waiting for that package to arrive. There are some other cruisers going back to the states in a few weeks and will return in a month so we are hoping they will bring back the new spreaders for us.<br /><br />Other exciting news from the Kingdom of Tonga is that a new island recently arose from the ocean deep, on a sea of<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjg1leTN3dBiWbCtk33OOdSiINPCSvjbFr7WpDmrnPudOtUiaoYlw4GXw3osGsJ_MnSjsenHXq40bT0mOrDRhXoenZHquCaBhsqtPeYwBGA9l0g2ew3Xe0HQ_4KKKFzF7egkfYhNIkHx8c/s1600-h/P1170045+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjg1leTN3dBiWbCtk33OOdSiINPCSvjbFr7WpDmrnPudOtUiaoYlw4GXw3osGsJ_MnSjsenHXq40bT0mOrDRhXoenZHquCaBhsqtPeYwBGA9l0g2ew3Xe0HQ_4KKKFzF7egkfYhNIkHx8c/s320/P1170045+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5375385645546127346" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGLpaBQYvBCyDzgLvWStLcjF_2f8xmr63EYTKXgBKR5vjyOWdrjG5S9AZ_jLZXKBox2a6VfBstgXm8AeGps5B3huK7InlDQEPrXJ4KEZKxupSGlLtYTX07gX-3i-RZuRr_ZAj-iBTNMKY/s1600-h/DSC00151+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGLpaBQYvBCyDzgLvWStLcjF_2f8xmr63EYTKXgBKR5vjyOWdrjG5S9AZ_jLZXKBox2a6VfBstgXm8AeGps5B3huK7InlDQEPrXJ4KEZKxupSGlLtYTX07gX-3i-RZuRr_ZAj-iBTNMKY/s320/DSC00151+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5375385631886651314" border="0" /></a> floating pumice, about 60 miles west of here. On top of that, Cyclone season is now underway with a new storm, Yani, forming to the west of us. It is 1,500 miles away and is not considered a threat to this area - for now. From the above, you could be forgiven for considering Tonga to be politically, geologically and meteorologically unstable, and hardly a fit place to spend the next several months. In fact, we are enjoying the beautiful island anchorages of the Vava’u group and the friendly people here. We have obtained a cyclone mooring<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghqFO_ET1FNZrltqsMkGdwpdXlJKjFIm52NPdbdsQ56lyVL8VT_-HLSVe8g2uZQKDWD-H_wpkRS_9WWl0Fzv-4hk3gQQiYj55zS4jogTWeVbxM6KN_wCs1m-KTwK3rOeff55F__Ho8yIo/s1600-h/P1170044+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghqFO_ET1FNZrltqsMkGdwpdXlJKjFIm52NPdbdsQ56lyVL8VT_-HLSVe8g2uZQKDWD-H_wpkRS_9WWl0Fzv-4hk3gQQiYj55zS4jogTWeVbxM6KN_wCs1m-KTwK3rOeff55F__Ho8yIo/s320/P1170044+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5375385634042436306" border="0" /></a> in Neiafu Harbor, a good “hurricane hole”, which consists of two concrete blocks weighing about two tons each plus a lot of heavy chain. John calculates that the mooring should be good for at least 100-knot winds. If and when a cyclone is approaching, we will dash in, secure HAWKEYE on our new mooring, strip the boat of all sails and canvas to minimize windage - and get a hotel room ashore for the duration of the cyclone!<br /><br />Meanwhile, we will celebrate Thanksgiving today with a turkey dinner attended by 5 different boats. One fellow is from Spain and said he has always wanted to attend an American Thanksgiving as he has only seen it in the movies! Should be fun and interesting. Best wishes to you all for turkey day.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwV-km9Hv2Wkq_vPWxP0s7S2okPWNONMoXHyIO7ATJFJZplutUHf73U8uHsaU0rkOS0YwkVDHZX-0z4emxax5dJPTf3pZFsYjWX6MNzCen-V9WEKqFe8d7k58XQcUZ738a5xS0KUUSqNE/s1600-h/DSC00138+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwV-km9Hv2Wkq_vPWxP0s7S2okPWNONMoXHyIO7ATJFJZplutUHf73U8uHsaU0rkOS0YwkVDHZX-0z4emxax5dJPTf3pZFsYjWX6MNzCen-V9WEKqFe8d7k58XQcUZ738a5xS0KUUSqNE/s320/DSC00138+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5375385628458719042" border="0" /></a><br />Our hope is to visit New Zealand for about 6 weeks in Feb-Mar via airplane instead of sailing there. Plans are being made already for celebrating Christmas here with an “Umu”, which is a feast where the food is cooked in a pit in the ground lined with hot rocks or coral and covered with banana leaves. It will be a group effort and should be lots of fun.<br /><br />Just in case you get the impression that cruising is all about lazing around in exotic locations (only partly true), some of our friends have had some really bad <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpJ1NqfHHG4AYz5eDqYNxmIKii7pdVVKFczNNEpOpSG_Hxcc32Xyq39gbEDhOJC4PkGAtXR_pVZp1hxY3kdG31WU_ZImYH82XJ630ZGsr3azreW7WFs7i2KXzuATYAn3bo9R6U0vbKg6o/s1600-h/Tuna+Derby+2,+Vava%27u+%5B320x200%5D.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpJ1NqfHHG4AYz5eDqYNxmIKii7pdVVKFczNNEpOpSG_Hxcc32Xyq39gbEDhOJC4PkGAtXR_pVZp1hxY3kdG31WU_ZImYH82XJ630ZGsr3azreW7WFs7i2KXzuATYAn3bo9R6U0vbKg6o/s320/Tuna+Derby+2,+Vava%27u+%5B320x200%5D.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5375386847765532258" border="0" /></a>experiences. One Canadian couple from Vancouver, whom we met in Ecuador, lost their boat in the pre-dawn darkness on the reef surrounding the island of Niue. They both escaped with minor cuts and bruises by climbing a steep cliff and fighting their way through dense brush to the nearest village. Sadly, their uninsured boat was a total loss. An English couple had the bad luck to require major medical treatment while at sea – not once, but twice! Happily, they arrived in Opua, New Zealand this week and are now getting expert medical attention. A German couple, en route from Samoa to Kiribatis, suffered a broken steering cable in heavy weather with the skipper incapacitated by a kidney stone! Fortunately, the great majority of passages are completed without incident.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxv9at2fS841szVcCWT9CgfGfLccX6vkFqvIolsrKvh0DzJP5TRhYxPrkmk5T0W_B_J9VZrteDCOceJGyX2JUvrzO1DDER2cGIwo39edMuSs3DVjXZCG55-WCvV7_okISpqHIXBK1jacI/s1600-h/Tonga-05+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxv9at2fS841szVcCWT9CgfGfLccX6vkFqvIolsrKvh0DzJP5TRhYxPrkmk5T0W_B_J9VZrteDCOceJGyX2JUvrzO1DDER2cGIwo39edMuSs3DVjXZCG55-WCvV7_okISpqHIXBK1jacI/s320/Tonga-05+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5375386836735442162" border="0" /></a><br />Best wishes to all of you for a great holiday season and exciting adventures in the new year. Linda and John s/v HAWKEYE<br /><br />P.S. We learned at our Thanksgiving dinner that we have to wash the “spinach leaves” we get here in strong bleach water, as there is a snail that leaves a slick on the leaves that causes meningitis. You can believe those leaves are<br />clean now!<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><input id="gwProxy" type="hidden"><!--Session data--><input onclick="jsCall();" id="jsProxy" type="hidden"><div id="refHTML"></div><input id="gwProxy" type="hidden"><!--Session data--><input onclick="jsCall();" id="jsProxy" type="hidden"><div id="refHTML"></div><input id="gwProxy" type="hidden"><!--Session data--><input onclick="jsCall();" id="jsProxy" type="hidden"><div id="refHTML"></div><input id="gwProxy" type="hidden"><!--Session data--><input onclick="jsCall();" id="jsProxy" type="hidden"><div id="refHTML"></div>About John and Lindahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09804781596879702975noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-919823168408227838.post-91033906980596052602006-10-31T05:26:00.000+12:002009-09-11T12:06:49.145+12:00HAWKEYE HAPPENINGS, October, 2006HAWKEYE HAPPENINGS, OCTOBER, 2006<br /><br />From the lagoon and that wonderful pass at Fakarava Atoll, in the Tuomotu Archipelago, we sailed about 180 miles to Tahiti. It was a good passage and as we arrived at the pass through the reef to Papeete, the wind decided to escalate to 30 knots. It was a nerve-wracking sail through the pass and through the narrow passage with reefs on both sides. Some of the marks into the anchorage were missing so it got quite confusing in the heavy wind, a hefty current, around the <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4LfolsXlbW9gfWTRM5Mr4rsLBXb5qb3ZT-o_cX_UGPDqU1892gESZeDdrhKYVcYtQ1r3ICywT3-9KHI3t8QEsoAxyDfYGKscqLg1o80vLd4mgc50f8AuSQ5VVD0y_2jrKe9mH-BeFpHg/s1600-h/Tahiti_sociaty+233+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4LfolsXlbW9gfWTRM5Mr4rsLBXb5qb3ZT-o_cX_UGPDqU1892gESZeDdrhKYVcYtQ1r3ICywT3-9KHI3t8QEsoAxyDfYGKscqLg1o80vLd4mgc50f8AuSQ5VVD0y_2jrKe9mH-BeFpHg/s320/Tahiti_sociaty+233+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5375035359446174466" border="0" /></a>airport runway and into the lagoon where we finally were able to get a slip at the dock as we had a long list of things that needed to be done. After a week at the dock at $42 U.S. a night and a few of the projects completed, we headed for the anchorage before we had gone completely broke! Things were slow to happen and we ended up in Papeete for 3 weeks. Papeete is not one of our favorite cities in the world. There is lots of traffic and smog from vehicles and the prices are outrageous. We did, however, manage to spend one day with our friend, Joe Scirica. We had sailed with Joe on his boat, MUSIC, to the Galapagos and then on to Panama the year before. He had single handed his boat from Costa Rica to Tahiti and was shipping his boat back to Mexico and flying back to the U.S. We so enjoyed visiting with him and will miss him as we cruise.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhfR-sWqi4ytlbBEoGgNaPwZ_2wvfpGVz4f2aUbOTm3V6QYfgDasNsDweAM4gKFYCpvzKW8cp13mP1Iy_0ZjWeTIaIoLoA6s1AofK7oxU8SqqpaDnGpmODDVGUbxpu7lpC7oObvjVrExM/s1600-h/South+Pacific+063+%5B320x200%5D.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhfR-sWqi4ytlbBEoGgNaPwZ_2wvfpGVz4f2aUbOTm3V6QYfgDasNsDweAM4gKFYCpvzKW8cp13mP1Iy_0ZjWeTIaIoLoA6s1AofK7oxU8SqqpaDnGpmODDVGUbxpu7lpC7oObvjVrExM/s320/South+Pacific+063+%5B320x200%5D.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5375034710627504498" border="0" /></a><br />From Papeete, we sailed to Moorea. It is only about a 20-mile trip but we ended up in a squall with high winds. At one point, our wind meter decided to quit when we were blasted with 30-knot winds. During the squall, the rain was so heavy we were not able to see mountainous Moorea even though we were less than 1 mile away. We sailed towards Cook’s Bay and Opunohu Bay using radar and GPS and finally, as we approached the bay, the squall cleared and we could see the pass through the coral reef and the protected bay beyond. It was great to get inside the reef with calm seas and get the anchor down in 10 feet of clear water and relax.<br /><br />One morning we took a long dinghy ride down to the place where the stingrays hang out and got in the water with them. They come right up and eat out of your hand and rub up against you and there are a LOT of them. Small black tipped reef sharks swam around looking for scraps of food also. Later, we heard of an Aussie swimmer who died from a stingray on the Great Barrier Reef. A sobering thought.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaSN1YOjJcVDnFWVb5FuJx1Nr4J1In44G_t639tj-b_jaehyzK0Y3tG882qpKTFWwxKg4-lD_uJbSKweUTVxXbCeXpPFpAl-HP3S7aLt14XkEFWyyxIlmKewKg-pO3IGBCwJdBAimYgpg/s1600-h/Tahiti_sociaty+111+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 300px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaSN1YOjJcVDnFWVb5FuJx1Nr4J1In44G_t639tj-b_jaehyzK0Y3tG882qpKTFWwxKg4-lD_uJbSKweUTVxXbCeXpPFpAl-HP3S7aLt14XkEFWyyxIlmKewKg-pO3IGBCwJdBAimYgpg/s320/Tahiti_sociaty+111+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5375035349968713218" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEireujypWFGrK6cpjhO6fCu_lf_WaE0Mt0dzCrigfdlGDz7fzM8JRRK0sF5k801bkEmGCqiIw4K_PCQEWho6O9iiD0Vr5tZUj7IMNJufKKfVAmZxQGQOtGKd6QN51U1iOzSluo3NDwNxQ4/s1600-h/Tahiti_sociaty+127+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEireujypWFGrK6cpjhO6fCu_lf_WaE0Mt0dzCrigfdlGDz7fzM8JRRK0sF5k801bkEmGCqiIw4K_PCQEWho6O9iiD0Vr5tZUj7IMNJufKKfVAmZxQGQOtGKd6QN51U1iOzSluo3NDwNxQ4/s320/Tahiti_sociaty+127+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5375035356203336898" border="0" /></a><br />Another day we hiked up to the Belvedere lookout with people from two other boats where we could see down into both Cooks and Opunohu Bays and the surrounding reef. A great hike through the forest to a marae and then up to the viewpoint. Our reward was a wonderful sorbet treat on the way back down.<br /><br />One evening we went with cruisers from two other boats to the Bali Hai Hotel to watch the dancers perform and sing. It was then time to think about heading to the island of Raiatea where we had scheduled a date to haul the boat as our repaired max prop was being sent back from the states after being balanced and bearings replaced. This seemed to be the problem of the clanking since leaving Ecuador. Seems they had slipped up and not done all the repairs. They will never understand the grief it caused us! But, they did pay for all the shipping charges and repairs they should have done in the beginning…<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIrcnc1ayKxnqvtXThYt8gkJNS9b-vhCEP_-8m8sehyphenhyphenTFxFhWSfsz-fEmlVf6dQB2s2FQoZc2eT8Pgv7x8slzFw8rYfNhJAe0PvOFGDi9jMc6VV-Um-QmjYhrZGk7xpoy35xbkCcQPKKI/s1600-h/Tahiti_sociaty+346-1+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 159px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIrcnc1ayKxnqvtXThYt8gkJNS9b-vhCEP_-8m8sehyphenhyphenTFxFhWSfsz-fEmlVf6dQB2s2FQoZc2eT8Pgv7x8slzFw8rYfNhJAe0PvOFGDi9jMc6VV-Um-QmjYhrZGk7xpoy35xbkCcQPKKI/s320/Tahiti_sociaty+346-1+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5375035370551809794" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi44Xjq1n645B87mM-VpliLGeFqh1BmSQ_IxYedUcamXmqEGy9x5XhO8_GFcWR411sryY3DlFQNsiYNz44_6NAauQ21N9_LNAof0cO7VDUToouYTdN7jGbywaiauFynW7dMNUPGY0OgNi8/s1600-h/South+Pacific+070+%5B320x200%5D.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi44Xjq1n645B87mM-VpliLGeFqh1BmSQ_IxYedUcamXmqEGy9x5XhO8_GFcWR411sryY3DlFQNsiYNz44_6NAauQ21N9_LNAof0cO7VDUToouYTdN7jGbywaiauFynW7dMNUPGY0OgNi8/s320/South+Pacific+070+%5B320x200%5D.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5375035042034852242" border="0" /></a>Anyway, it was an overnight trip to Raiatea and we arrived through the pass into a beautiful anchorage where we stayed waiting out high winds. We took a trip up a river through jungle to beautiful botanical gardens and had a tour and explanation of plants of the area. It was an enjoyable float back down the river and a fun afternoon visiting with cruisers on two other boats. One day we hitchhiked (the accepted way to travel around these islands) to Marae Tapataputea, the most important religious and historical site in French Polynesia.<br /><br />The fun was over for a while as we headed to Raiatea Carenage Marina and the haulout. We were out of the water <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_dPWuPZz63aTJZsFTsD1szhVn2-yqsWaBazRAXpeoqnNUFqpXdL1N9m_CgfJFhgblI_Co-nqZ_1oD1MprAq5-s7X_Wh8TRA23ayFnpST6YLzHdETl-hCOwTl7-Pge2VD-eFBAduMpDmY/s1600-h/South+Pacific+003+%5B320x200%5D.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_dPWuPZz63aTJZsFTsD1szhVn2-yqsWaBazRAXpeoqnNUFqpXdL1N9m_CgfJFhgblI_Co-nqZ_1oD1MprAq5-s7X_Wh8TRA23ayFnpST6YLzHdETl-hCOwTl7-Pge2VD-eFBAduMpDmY/s320/South+Pacific+003+%5B320x200%5D.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5375034705051473618" border="0" /></a>four days. John took off the fixed blade propeller and installed the Max Prop. He did a bunch of other maintenance and repairs and Linda cleaned and waxed the hull. Once again, we had a guy come out to work on our refrigeration. It had worked 1-½ weeks since Papeete where we had a guy work on it for 3 weeks. Once back in the water, we headed for the town of Uturoa. The propeller now vibrates at 2600 rpm instead of 2400 rpm (no vibration at all with the fixed blade prop, but that one slows us down too much when we are sailing. I guess we will live with the vibration). We tied to the dock and spent 3 days there. The hike up the hill to the microwave tower was worth the climb as the view was spectacular. We could see the island of Tahaa across the channel and the reef that surrounds both islands and could see Bora Bora 20 miles away. During this time, we had high winds again that blew us on to the dock so we had every fender we have out trying to protect our newly cleaned and polished hull. We also ran numerous lines to different cleats on the dock. It was a rough stay and we were glad to get away early one morning when the winds were down a bit. People from 3 other boats helped us to get away. We had done the same for boats leaving before us.<br /><br />The sail over to Tahaa was very enjoyable and we relaxed on a mooring in a beautiful, quiet bay and a night of uninterrupted sleep. The next day we were ready to sail the 30 miles to Bora Bora. Again, we had an enjoyable sail and arrived to the pass into the lagoon of Bora Bora just as a freighter was coming out and another coming in. We all three passed at the pinch of the reef. John steered HAWKEYE as close to the side as was safe in order to get out of the way of the two big guys.<br /><br />We managed to find a mooring right in front of the famous restaurant, Bloody Marys and had a wonderful dinner to celebrate Linda’s birthday, which was back in July. It was worth the wait! We shared our table with another cruising couple on the boat SONGSTER. They are from England and he also worked in the airplane business so there was a lot in common to talk about.<br /><br />Jackie told us about her having terrible pain in her leg towards the end of their crossing from the Galapagos to Marquesas. Upon arrival in the Marquesas, she was airlifted to Papeete and had surgery to remove a non-malignant tumor. Brian had to sail the boat from the Marquesas to Papeete single-handed and of course was extremely worried about her the whole time. It was quite an experience but they have overcome it and are heading further west.<br /><br />We had two great snorkels while in Bora Bora with lots of pretty fish and one enormous Moray Eel. The water was crystal clear and warm. The boat looked like it is sitting in air, the water is so clear!<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJb0MZmj2OQ6nxsQweY388xcZD99bzs56LvtfE3WJOdOOF77SHoDnNeyzQfMoE3RHMg9Ncz81zF0Wt3lJAG1TZR4kdTBCkiQ8AKinj8f0-0tM9mWKWVUiPKnDtgM2FpmPZhhlSW-2iYgQ/s1600-h/Suvarov+copy+%5B320x200%5D.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 278px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJb0MZmj2OQ6nxsQweY388xcZD99bzs56LvtfE3WJOdOOF77SHoDnNeyzQfMoE3RHMg9Ncz81zF0Wt3lJAG1TZR4kdTBCkiQ8AKinj8f0-0tM9mWKWVUiPKnDtgM2FpmPZhhlSW-2iYgQ/s320/Suvarov+copy+%5B320x200%5D.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5375035067906516450" border="0" /></a><br />As soon as we had a good weather window, we headed further west. We were going to stop at Palmerston Island in the Cooks but the weather was not good in that direction and so we headed directly to Suvarov (or Suwarrow), which is also one of the northern Cook Islands. This motu is spectacular!! It is a national park about 475 miles from any other land and there is only the caretaker and his family living on this island. John and Veronica and their 4 boys are a joy to meet and visit with. They love having the cruisers visit and want to keep Suvarov unspoiled. Last year they had 114 boats visit and this year 92 have been here. It is just about the end of the season and they will be returning to Rarotonga in October for the hurricane season and will <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoHFuflHOCVYoy2Oe8GepptxsLInEDQJm5BLxsfG9ffbRaN2oo72ZvWM_Mpnoy5ztxq-XX6SP3fNX18KLpUxJ3oYU43-L-nxVvkPp7QwsCwQ7KL_Bv8ENYFPzguIjGYs3QqwVJgZz6KdY/s1600-h/P9221485+%5B320x200%5D.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoHFuflHOCVYoy2Oe8GepptxsLInEDQJm5BLxsfG9ffbRaN2oo72ZvWM_Mpnoy5ztxq-XX6SP3fNX18KLpUxJ3oYU43-L-nxVvkPp7QwsCwQ7KL_Bv8ENYFPzguIjGYs3QqwVJgZz6KdY/s320/P9221485+%5B320x200%5D.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5375034697335838482" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjchaeNzs1ySgtof00dMS7j8OPRtUy760POCa5UyNIAwcrmBBM_V8FhLsyRpKFfhS8Rzr1Q0dW5VDK8zXQCqiJzcqg58cvSh9PEmAnl4_rkpS1CGuR_VbshVdoWN8tjZCPW9mAtcfCE1NA/s1600-h/Hawkeye,+Samoa+054+%5B320x200%5D.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjchaeNzs1ySgtof00dMS7j8OPRtUy760POCa5UyNIAwcrmBBM_V8FhLsyRpKFfhS8Rzr1Q0dW5VDK8zXQCqiJzcqg58cvSh9PEmAnl4_rkpS1CGuR_VbshVdoWN8tjZCPW9mAtcfCE1NA/s320/Hawkeye,+Samoa+054+%5B320x200%5D.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5375034695258967458" border="0" /></a>return next April if the government will allow them to. There is a wonderful book written in the 60’s named “An Island to Oneself” by Tom Neale, a New Zealander, who lived on the island alone and wrote of his experiences here. It was a very special read for us.<br /><br />In the week and ½ we have been here, we have had 3 potlucks and gone on several excursions. We walked the reef from Anchorage <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4prU2XndiRIWJ0x_MUAdQpHyzaDuHi4Fs6XFld5R2a5L93nVZ2c1c9zozh6Z2gii0V9pDGhIKVDBa0nwBWgS60g77ETOtsjMpbNWFJPdZsq-mLygeB5fAamhG0RowyFjJTAcOMeN18q8/s1600-h/South+Pacific+103+%5B320x200%5D.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4prU2XndiRIWJ0x_MUAdQpHyzaDuHi4Fs6XFld5R2a5L93nVZ2c1c9zozh6Z2gii0V9pDGhIKVDBa0nwBWgS60g77ETOtsjMpbNWFJPdZsq-mLygeB5fAamhG0RowyFjJTAcOMeN18q8/s320/South+Pacific+103+%5B320x200%5D.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5375035057155078962" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6y1im1EFE3xKqeUJaDPqY5PVxvOz7r4mncnvHFnTRX3leC02oeWfU3AqqlFzYhJWuKLHmUU_07iJL4bbe-tIpewG4P7zAW0qz1C6Gx2iptkzPQfYrdIR4mcI4NhT2NxinZ-feh4__cSM/s1600-h/South+Pacific+099+%5B320x200%5D.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6y1im1EFE3xKqeUJaDPqY5PVxvOz7r4mncnvHFnTRX3leC02oeWfU3AqqlFzYhJWuKLHmUU_07iJL4bbe-tIpewG4P7zAW0qz1C6Gx2iptkzPQfYrdIR4mcI4NhT2NxinZ-feh4__cSM/s320/South+Pacific+099+%5B320x200%5D.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5375035049010653842" border="0" /></a>Island, which is the main island where John & Veronica live, to Whale Island. It was a wonderful walk mostly in ankle deep water looking at all the beautiful coral and fish-keeping an eye out for sharks and eels that tend to come up and bite on the ankle if given a chance. Another day John took a group of us over to Gull Island to visit the Frigate, Terns, Boobie and Tropic Bird nesting places. We got to see eggs, young, and adult birds of all species. The Tropic Bird is noted for its’ long tail and there were also red footed boobies which we hadn’t seen before. We did a great snorkel on the reef by the birds.<br /><br />Yesterday, we went with two other boats in our dinghys to Lewin reef inside the lagoon and did a wall snorkel. The most exciting thing seen on this snorkel was the eagle rays. It was so neat to check them out as they fluttered through the water like large butterflies. At one point, a small one went straight up and out of the water and landed with a large splash just a few feet from us. The spotted eagle ray has five barbs at the base of their tail and one does not want to monkey with them!<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3YpnHIC3EIt1T8ENwJ1CDPtEOqb5EM0dit38wBVpijnl1NyWIuudP6UMFaDroKmf3mYQFgAjFaq3CxY-KOLmvcdjHLPwqGn0Fz-ax_uBTnhwEz-8rN8gjA6QGzFk9zUiPpRymgov2TjU/s1600-h/3+Johns+%5B320x200%5D.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 307px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3YpnHIC3EIt1T8ENwJ1CDPtEOqb5EM0dit38wBVpijnl1NyWIuudP6UMFaDroKmf3mYQFgAjFaq3CxY-KOLmvcdjHLPwqGn0Fz-ax_uBTnhwEz-8rN8gjA6QGzFk9zUiPpRymgov2TjU/s320/3+Johns+%5B320x200%5D.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5375034683759936370" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhabuc4GZ_Bdb74NydU-Sntjg3k8seUy_ORz97-TF60lLj3AtmATD2BIIz5F5BVsw10iUR9DfENlwvaO8cqgI7wNYvQskjQcLVeBuSqvWqSlp04FUle9hXILrELERrLIjskLq6c8kpUoGs/s1600-h/Veronica+and+Linda+%5B320x200%5D.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 307px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhabuc4GZ_Bdb74NydU-Sntjg3k8seUy_ORz97-TF60lLj3AtmATD2BIIz5F5BVsw10iUR9DfENlwvaO8cqgI7wNYvQskjQcLVeBuSqvWqSlp04FUle9hXILrELERrLIjskLq6c8kpUoGs/s320/Veronica+and+Linda+%5B320x200%5D.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5375035371181367074" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Today we did another drift snorkel with some other boaters near the pass and went along with the current holding on to the dinghy. At one point, we got behind the reef and had just gotten back into the water to look at some Napoleon fish and a huge shark with big teeth came cruising by. He was 10 to 12 feet in length and quite large around and had spots on him. Not anything like any of the other sharks we were used to seeing on or snorkels here. He was about 20 feet away and we quickly jumped into the dinghy and headed back to the anchorage. Upon checking in our shark book, we concluded it was a Tiger Shark which are quite vicious and have been known to eat just about anything including humans. Well, that was today’s excitement!<br /><br />We are now waiting for a weather window to head to Pago Pago, American Samoa where we hope to have parts shipped in. HAWKEYE has not seen U.S. waters since 1994 and her crew is looking forward to getting some American products. Our progress has been slow and we are definitely at the end of the pack but we hope to have less crowded anchorages and better weather than those that have gone through so quickly. We are fortunate in that we have no schedule and are sticking to it! John and Linda s/v HAWKEYE<br />P.S. Oct 6. We have arrived in Pago Pago, American Samoa. We had a good crossing of 475 miles from Suvarov, averaging six knots, and are enjoying being in a US protectorate. We are busy on the Internet ordering parts to be shipped here, as there is no duty. This is a beautiful island and the people are really nice and go out of their way to help us Palangis as we are called. We will probably be here for at least 2 weeks waiting for the different parts to be shipped and then off to Tonga and New Zealand.<br /><br /><input id="gwProxy" type="hidden"><!--Session data--><input onclick="jsCall();" id="jsProxy" type="hidden"><div id="refHTML"></div><input id="gwProxy" type="hidden"><!--Session data--><input onclick="jsCall();" id="jsProxy" type="hidden"><div id="refHTML"></div><input id="gwProxy" type="hidden"><!--Session data--><input onclick="jsCall();" id="jsProxy" type="hidden"><div id="refHTML"></div><input id="gwProxy" type="hidden"><!--Session data--><input onclick="jsCall();" id="jsProxy" type="hidden"><div id="refHTML"></div>About John and Lindahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09804781596879702975noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-919823168408227838.post-59441180561786881522006-06-30T05:24:00.000+12:002009-09-11T12:08:27.004+12:00HAWKEYE HAPPENINGS, June, 2006HAWKEYE HAPPENINGS<br /><br />At the close of our last update, we were in the lagoon at Kauehi Atoll in the Tuamotus awaiting two springs for the injector pumps for our Volvo engine. After three weeks of waiting, well we did snorkel several times, beach comb, visit the pearl farm, had a wonderful full moon beach party-BBQ, visited the church and small village grocery store for fresh food and ICE CREAM while waiting, our parts arrived. John spent several hours studying the engine manual trying to get past the part where it says "Do not attempt to do this-send it back for repair by a qualified mechanic." He devised a tool for putting in the new springs and talked to the Volvo service manager in Seattle several times who was VERY helpful after John explained where he was calling from and what the circumstances were. Finally the big day arrived and John went to shore in the dinghy to get to the tiny airport (one flight a week) to get the parts.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuAAa621_9uiWorRMpCD1DkKOZiarMSHj61DUR1_JxBlvgy3vCGI1eyQQTQTRtxpetxJ47zv2aIdlSW5XswkNBNvYo7tcecehbbYcenUP4CSQ4CFjmyXJWajrI1t5myb4HC58LhApnRJw/s1600-h/South+Pacific+019+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuAAa621_9uiWorRMpCD1DkKOZiarMSHj61DUR1_JxBlvgy3vCGI1eyQQTQTRtxpetxJ47zv2aIdlSW5XswkNBNvYo7tcecehbbYcenUP4CSQ4CFjmyXJWajrI1t5myb4HC58LhApnRJw/s320/South+Pacific+019+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5374989516151178562" border="0" /></a><br /><br />We had originally wanted to be in Papeete for the Bastille Day celebrations which go on from June 30 to Aug 2. We were quickly closing in on July 14 which is the actual Bastille Day. Once the guys got the engine running, we headed out the next morning at 5:30 a.m. just as it was getting daylight. We motor sailed, yes, motor sailed as no wind (and we were so happy to be able to motor),to the atoll of Fakarava. We passed through the north passage on a flooding tide, to the town of Rotoava, anchored, and headed into town for the festivities. That evening we watched participants in a dance competition do the famous Tamure to the rousing applause of the audience. The next day we watched the javelin throwing contest. A coconut it attached to a pole about 25 feet off the ground and the men take turns throwing their home made javelins trying to stick them in the coconut. Another day was a weaving contest where women were shown items such as a basket, hat, mat, and purse. They were timed and graded on how tightly woven and appearance. Everyone had a great time in all the competitions with lots of laughter and cheering. Each evening there were more dance competitions or singing competitions and we really enjoyed it. We had some great meals ashore and were able to shop for fresh food in the two grocery stores in the village.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDVyCFV0o0mwJk1dL8XQYYW8LbI1ck01cx9ao3jZsizjHwS5UwiMTfjT3UeKm15YOBj5od_jyLTlBNXqSdVFHKKZAUjI20PRSuBGka5B3K60prHTLnw5d9PQFyvgTEqc7vV9aqrBqusvs/s1600-h/P7251376+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDVyCFV0o0mwJk1dL8XQYYW8LbI1ck01cx9ao3jZsizjHwS5UwiMTfjT3UeKm15YOBj5od_jyLTlBNXqSdVFHKKZAUjI20PRSuBGka5B3K60prHTLnw5d9PQFyvgTEqc7vV9aqrBqusvs/s320/P7251376+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5374989508161487058" border="0" /></a><br />After the festivities wound down, our thoughts were focusing on the south pass of the atoll. The lagoon in Fakarava atoll is 30 miles long and 10 miles wide. It was a strange feeling of sailing on this placid lagoon hearing the ocean waves crashing on the coral fringe of the atoll.<br /><br />THE SOUTH PASS. We have found paradise and we don't want to leave!!! This is supposed to be one of the best dive sites in the world. We haven't seen most of the dive sites in the world but have seen quite a few and we LOVE this place. Our first day here we did a drift snorkel. We could see the bottom at 60 feet plus through the brilliant blue water.<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5wZ64_RqFrESsYZ-FvQeQm8Cu3IDHipj02FrdPHeL7sDI-DkEDyOsrQfgzj4F3xuhXt5oGGqL8ItiPokT5VgpEdzh3iJTE9uOa024n25N7extsWLiRw-bU-yKBX6M-RwIui2-I8orZdo/s1600-h/South+Pacific+037+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5wZ64_RqFrESsYZ-FvQeQm8Cu3IDHipj02FrdPHeL7sDI-DkEDyOsrQfgzj4F3xuhXt5oGGqL8ItiPokT5VgpEdzh3iJTE9uOa024n25N7extsWLiRw-bU-yKBX6M-RwIui2-I8orZdo/s320/South+Pacific+037+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5374989608140105762" border="0" /></a> The trick is to take the dinghy out the pass during the tidal flood and float back in holding on to the dinghy. The center of the channel is sand where the grey sharks congregate-lots of them. Up the side of the channel is a carpet of different kinds of coral and teaming with all different fish from open water tuna to tiny brilliant colored reef fish. There were lots of white tipped and black tipped sharks that are curious and check us out and then swim off. The second day we did a drift tank dive. Even 9 year old Jamie. It was his 4th dive of his diving career and it will be tough to beat that dive. Sharks much bigger than him were in abundance. So many we couldn't count them. <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYFtmCr6npXQyhLWjUSl2F_qaMtv5qaqOpGWoHtYlsVHSo1ZN0IFu-X16yzGJnrA3n8Z2VFOAZ8pzEjP0KQoDbXcBAnFlmnmw2s-WBc1MoIDnkoUJQ0UVK9mDNqS6dN3SfEiRole54xzA/s1600-h/020+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYFtmCr6npXQyhLWjUSl2F_qaMtv5qaqOpGWoHtYlsVHSo1ZN0IFu-X16yzGJnrA3n8Z2VFOAZ8pzEjP0KQoDbXcBAnFlmnmw2s-WBc1MoIDnkoUJQ0UVK9mDNqS6dN3SfEiRole54xzA/s320/020+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5374989498598935026" border="0" /></a>There is also a very large Napoleon Parrot fish that lives in the pass and frequents the small resort located right on the pass. The restaurant workers throw food scraps into the water and "Napoleon" is always looking for a handout. He doesn't do much fast swimming to catch his own food and likes to hang out with the people in the water. They also "feed" the black tips who swim around the restaurant which is built over the water and we could sit for hours watching the underwater show from a table overlooking the crystal clear water. Anyone looking for a great dive vacation in a quiet, away from it all place, check out this resorts website at www.tetamanuvillage.pf. Great food and wonderful people and of course the diving and snorkeling. We were supposed to leave today for Papeete and had a "goodbye" dinner at the <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-GiUKQtcaVaYZ5zL_SuQEs6_RjppWEpYLPkgUmDkTnP5pakkKI_WurObipuYnlAjOC0K1QQIYrXCLo2QwqH6v8XmAbgM_YkbV1VQYZrgxzscu176ce63PNgqS3GkebSjAxAQk_wpk7cA/s1600-h/South+Pacific+026+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-GiUKQtcaVaYZ5zL_SuQEs6_RjppWEpYLPkgUmDkTnP5pakkKI_WurObipuYnlAjOC0K1QQIYrXCLo2QwqH6v8XmAbgM_YkbV1VQYZrgxzscu176ce63PNgqS3GkebSjAxAQk_wpk7cA/s320/South+Pacific+026+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5374989523652078210" border="0" /></a>resort last night. They invited all 7 of us back for a free pancake breakfast this morning <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyNz2UDRHZCW8zebhx1iIgfnl7xmnWb-l15EngGpzKefV3N9BOj2m0xAmRlgtCy-cB2moSVmbIZsThpWO2t5KI4HJ2SqW5IiRYXJoX2OVe8I7YGA1rnwpM06-auBAOaXftOR0IcVHKeMw/s1600-h/Sharks_06+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyNz2UDRHZCW8zebhx1iIgfnl7xmnWb-l15EngGpzKefV3N9BOj2m0xAmRlgtCy-cB2moSVmbIZsThpWO2t5KI4HJ2SqW5IiRYXJoX2OVe8I7YGA1rnwpM06-auBAOaXftOR0IcVHKeMw/s320/Sharks_06+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5374989511419179138" border="0" /></a>and as the weather isn't quite perfect today, we have decided to stay a few more days... Today's drift dive is scheduled for 1 p.m. You can bet we will be there! We did the pass twice yesterday and were tempted to do it a third time as it is so wonderful.<br /><br />Friends and relatives ask what our plans are-we may never leave this paradise!! Linda & John s/v HAWKEYE<br /><br /><input id="gwProxy" type="hidden"><!--Session data--><input onclick="jsCall();" id="jsProxy" type="hidden"><div id="refHTML"></div><input id="gwProxy" type="hidden"><!--Session data--><input onclick="jsCall();" id="jsProxy" type="hidden"><div id="refHTML"></div><input id="gwProxy" type="hidden"><!--Session data--><input onclick="jsCall();" id="jsProxy" type="hidden"><div id="refHTML"></div>About John and Lindahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09804781596879702975noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-919823168408227838.post-61843034350557621012006-04-30T05:21:00.000+12:002009-09-11T12:09:42.693+12:00HAWKEYE HAPPENINGS, April, 2006HAWKEYE’S crossing of the South Pacific<br /><br />We had been nervous and apprehensive about the trip since we decided to go in January and hadn’t said much about our decision to friends and relatives as well as other cruisers as we have seen and heard of many other cruisers that changed their plans, for one reason or another, after telling everyone that they were going to do something like this. We didn’t inform our families of our plans until we were well into getting ready to go. Several times during the three months of “getting ready” we changed our minds as things broke and were difficult to fix. Some of the major things we found out about when we hauled the boat in Salinas, Ecuador was blisters on the bottom which after much discussion with professionals decided to go with it “as is”. The next major hurtle was the propeller problem. When we hauled the boat, we found severe corrosion on the propeller. After weeks of trying to find someone going to the states to take it back for us so that it could be sent off the be repaired, we bit the bullet and paid to have it sent DHL to PYI in Seattle, WA. We were lucky to find <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-1vl3k0NJDSBMffc0T1tjCpdTvay1uzcRcnq35LvHQlD73rH8qfTy6mExShOPnx_eaM-McToL0ktKBWx436kfDteG563nIS3lCLQqzMOcWJE5kyGr6NWStX3IPgbdOEpnSAtlsemlcwQ/s1600-h/DSC00229+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-1vl3k0NJDSBMffc0T1tjCpdTvay1uzcRcnq35LvHQlD73rH8qfTy6mExShOPnx_eaM-McToL0ktKBWx436kfDteG563nIS3lCLQqzMOcWJE5kyGr6NWStX3IPgbdOEpnSAtlsemlcwQ/s320/DSC00229+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5374974090277686434" border="0" /></a>someone coming down to visit other cruisers that were willing to bring it back for us.<br /><br />Hundreds of projects were on our “To Do” list and gradually that list was brought down to minor things that could be done underway or at anchor in the Galapagos. After two months “on the hard” in the boatyard we were able to launch HAWKEYE, provision, and headed to the Galapagos.<br /><br />We had a good breeze leaving Salinas, Ecuador and sailed well until the second night out on the 600-mile plus trip. John was on watch and had two fishing boats come within ¼ mile of HAWKEYE in light winds. He turned on the engine so we could motor away from them and that is when we heard the clunking noise for the first time. He turned the motor off after we had gotten a safe distance from the fishing boats and we the next day, when it was calm, he went over to check out the propeller and shaft to see if he could see anything wrong. There was a plastic bag wrapped around the propeller, which he was able to unwind and take off. We thought our problem was solved; but the next time we started the engine and put a load on it, we had the same clunking noise. Lucky for us we were able to sail the whole way to Isla Cristabol, Galapagos and were able to motor slowly to get into the bay and anchor without the clunking noise. John checked the propeller and shaft and all zincs upon anchoring; everything looked good. He next checked over the engine, shaft, and everything inside the boat. He finally found a broken motor mount that we were able to get fixed and John reinstalled. We then took HAWKEYE out for a spin and still had the clunking at high rpm under load. After having another cruiser that was a mechanic in his “former life” and the mechanic from the Port Captain’s office look at it, the consensus was to go with it and have the propeller rebalanced at first opportunity. John had also been in touch with the PYI via e-mail on the problem.<br /><br />The decision was made to sail to Isla Isabela, Galapagos where we did some sightseeing, worked on chafing gear and got ready for the “puddle jump”. April 14, 2006 at 9 a.m. local time, we left Isla Isabela, Galapagos, Ecuador heading for the South Pacific with a tentative destination of the Gambiers, Tuomotos, French Polynesia.<br /><br />We had a nice breeze and a good weather prediction when we left and that breeze held up until the middle of the night when the wind quit and we decided to motor for a few hours as the batteries needed to be charged anyway. After a couple of hours motoring, the motor reduced speed and stopped. John changed the fuel filter and we motored for a few hours more and it happened again. John looked at the new fuel filter and it was o.k. At that time it was early morning and a breeze had come up so we sailed. After checking with a mechanic friend, Rick, on SHE WOLF via the SSB net, we put reverse pressure with a tire inflator on the hose from the fuel tank to the filter. Rick said that biobore, a chemical we put into the diesel fuel to kill algie, kills the algie, but then sticks together and makes clumps which may have caused the clog. We were able to sail after this exercise.<br /><br />Night two, two days after the full moon, there was an incredible moonrise and the moonlight on the water was beautiful. We sailed well all night under clear skies and perfect conditions.<br /><br />Day three and we are still sailing. Our 9 a.m. 24 hour run was 133 miles. When John listened to the net, he heard that SAFIRE had lost a lower shroud yesterday and another one today. They are still about 600 miles from the Marquesas and not enough fuel to motor the rest of the way. Those closest to them have offered to divert to their location and give them fuel. This may take several days as there are no boats close by them. Theresa and Kevin are experienced sailors <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgndfAofL_Kbz3FYnxWPjQgkawklw7xWRYEro1x4eD96i5zhJgl8FY5EpdjMKzOuxvwbaD08PBtSWRSqGUYZLw9OKYspXfqNvol7aSAbIjnG0jl8BP39tRz463zitdR1zYOpAvzfJrgEgM/s1600-h/DSC00227+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgndfAofL_Kbz3FYnxWPjQgkawklw7xWRYEro1x4eD96i5zhJgl8FY5EpdjMKzOuxvwbaD08PBtSWRSqGUYZLw9OKYspXfqNvol7aSAbIjnG0jl8BP39tRz463zitdR1zYOpAvzfJrgEgM/s320/DSC00227+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5374974071355607026" border="0" /></a>having sailed from England and around Cape Horn. Ran the engine from 7:30 p.m. until 8:00 p.m. to charge the batteries. Some squalls around but have managed to miss them so far. Had a few sprinkles this afternoon but no winds with it. Getting into the grove but John still not getting enough sleep. We both had trouble sleeping today as the seas were lumpy and the sails would slat. Sailed wing and wing most of the day. Did a jibe mid afternoon and put in one reef just before nightfall.<br /><br />Day 4 we moved right along doing 130 miles in 24 hours. Winds manageable in the 15 knot range with some squalls at night but no high winds.<br /><br />Day 5 was mostly wind in the 20-25 knot range with confused seas of about 6-8 feet. We triple reefed the main and jib and were still flying along. Not a comfortable day at sea. Had trouble with the engine quitting after motoring for 45 minutes. John bled the lines and managed to get it going again but quit again. This was our fastest day so far at 163 uncomfortable miles.<br /><br />This proved to be an ongoing problem with John trying different things and managing to keep it going enough to charge our batteries. It does not give us confidence in going through reefs, however. Day 6 at 9 a.m. we had gone another 147 miles in the previous 24 hours in uncomfortable seas. Day 7 at 9 a.m. we had gone 149 miles. The windvane lines show signs of chafe and we end for ended some of the lines. Also, made leather covers for the blocks to make it quieter. There are lots of moans, groans, clinks and clanks going on all the time. Still under triple reefed main and jib. Seas down a little this day and not as uncomfortable as the day before. Got the towing generator in the water successfully and will see how it does getting more amps in.<br /><br />The towing generator turned out to bring in enough amps to keep us from having to run the engine on a daily basis to charge the batteries. We now run the engine every third day for about one hour. It sure made a big difference.<br /><br />Our engine problem persisted and John would do a number of tests and finally surmised that there is sludge in the fuel tank that clogs the intake to the engine, thus the engine is starved of fuel and quits. After talking to a number of people via radio and e-mail, he devised another fuel tank to feed the engine. Using a jerry jug of fuel, he installed lines to the engine bypassing the main fuel tank. This took several hours working under very rolly conditions but he succeeded and we once again had a reliable engine.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEie8N_bFMw0vm-R5bkmf-YDFBtEV3soQQS-GbL6i4HqkZ2fBUXVSztolIh_lVJKmW3dxevVjGpeTUUSkoe0FmPuZac-29gy1S6nubcUhth5PzT_MW5qCfqpcZ4q6ad0psyszWzty0atdpY/s1600-h/DSC00228+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEie8N_bFMw0vm-R5bkmf-YDFBtEV3soQQS-GbL6i4HqkZ2fBUXVSztolIh_lVJKmW3dxevVjGpeTUUSkoe0FmPuZac-29gy1S6nubcUhth5PzT_MW5qCfqpcZ4q6ad0psyszWzty0atdpY/s320/DSC00228+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5374974085263264946" border="0" /></a><br />He debated back and forth about going to the Gambiers. If we needed some work done, it could not be done in the Gambiers. Finally the decision was made when we got word that 2 cyclones were heading to the Gambiers. We then deviated to the Marquesas. One boat got to the Gambiers just before the cyclone hit and another, Valella, backtracked to a safe distance until it went by. Another boat, Stinella, headed for the Marquesas also. Each day the seas settled down more and it was easier to be on the boat. Still a lot of movement where you can’t set anything down on a counter top and expect it to be there for over a second. The best place I found to work was on the floor. I made Calabasas soup and bread while sitting on the floor as well as preparing chicken enchaladas. Washing dishes is hard as you have to use a foot pump, which then only gives you one foot for trying to balance yourself. I find myself hopping around a lot. Cooking is a challenge and I am glad I had prepared a lot of things ahead of time.<br /><br />We have had some beautiful weather with sunny skies and very little squalls. None of the squalls so far have packed a lot of wind. We are thankful for that and that there has been very little rain. If we do have some rain, it is usually at night. Other boats have had squalls at night accompanied with wind. Our daily runs average in the 140 mile area and we are most frequently reefed down at least 2 reefs in the main.<br /><br />John does a check for chafe on a daily basis and there has been chafe on the jib, and screws loosen on the vang. He has had to repair the towing generator and the windvane lines. The jib tends to rub on the turnbuckles of the lifeline at the bow and has caused holes in the bottom of the sail. We sewed a piece of leather on the bottom of the sail and now it chafes above the leather.<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiD0ippANz43446jOVqE44ouQKmlMheb-opgV9eeAQHOGvnUYyLmZN2JJyev06_U92lQ1KNl8XuOAIWzEiAsMIiRBoYbj_IqFRxJGGFIAMVuD7CsmniqvOkDCcOpB_L3BE9QrpSNFtXiTw/s1600-h/DSC00224+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiD0ippANz43446jOVqE44ouQKmlMheb-opgV9eeAQHOGvnUYyLmZN2JJyev06_U92lQ1KNl8XuOAIWzEiAsMIiRBoYbj_IqFRxJGGFIAMVuD7CsmniqvOkDCcOpB_L3BE9QrpSNFtXiTw/s320/DSC00224+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5374974064881762178" border="0" /></a><br /><br />We are now in a <leo_highlight style="border-bottom: 2px solid rgb(255, 255, 150); background: transparent none repeat scroll 0% 0%; cursor: pointer; display: inline; -moz-background-clip: -moz-initial; -moz-background-origin: -moz-initial; -moz-background-inline-policy: -moz-initial;" id="leoHighlights_Underline_0" onclick="leoHighlightsHandleClick('leoHighlights_Underline_0')" onmouseover="leoHighlightsHandleMouseOver('leoHighlights_Underline_0')" onmouseout="leoHighlightsHandleMouseOut('leoHighlights_Underline_0')" leohighlights_keywords="new moon" leohighlights_url="http%3A//thebrowserhighlighter.com/leonardo/highlights/keywords?keywords%3Dnew%20moon">new moon</leo_highlight> phase. John has the moon on his 9 p.m. to midnight watch and last night I had it for about the first hour of my watch. Oh, we had a 3 green flash sunset one night and a 2 green flash another night. Also, caught a dorado and had 3 good meals from it. Fresh food just about gone and have started to eat canned fruits and veggies. Still some fresh meat in shrink-wrap left. Doing well in the food department.<br /><br />Lots of good wishes from people sending e-mails. Have had numerous problems sending update through email and John has had difficulty in connecting.<br />FIGMENT had 3 broken shrouds and has jerry rigged and going slow. TRUNDLE lost his prop and is sailing but needs help getting into anchor. One boat has engine problems.<br /><br />In the early morning of May 4, we passed a boat, Morning Light. On May 5, we passed ALK and Wind Castle. More moonlight at night now, until 3 a.m. No more squalls and beautiful skies. Had less wind night of May 5 but managed to keep going. 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</script></span><input id="gwProxy" type="hidden"><!--Session data--><input onclick="jsCall();" id="jsProxy" type="hidden"><div id="refHTML"></div><input id="gwProxy" type="hidden"><!--Session data--><input onclick="jsCall();" id="jsProxy" type="hidden"><div id="refHTML"></div>About John and Lindahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09804781596879702975noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-919823168408227838.post-30317649750425413412006-02-28T05:22:00.000+12:002009-09-11T12:09:04.771+12:00HAWKEYE HAPPENINGS, February, 2006<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_SLSprPaQ38AO3WCRCy8ItCz20mI4GOTsE6sVFvAb5HnTRlmbbgOuFsWm2lPdEh5BDeCjDfDvu4KeQWWRduadYba5Zl1nuxqkEOQTf5AqyBwXB-lZva36wllHkcAjPBOAC4jecf4bhq4/s1600-h/Ecuador+Map+%5B320x200%5D.gif"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 227px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_SLSprPaQ38AO3WCRCy8ItCz20mI4GOTsE6sVFvAb5HnTRlmbbgOuFsWm2lPdEh5BDeCjDfDvu4KeQWWRduadYba5Zl1nuxqkEOQTf5AqyBwXB-lZva36wllHkcAjPBOAC4jecf4bhq4/s320/Ecuador+Map+%5B320x200%5D.gif" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5374966715105783394" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Two Years in Ecuador<br /><br />There seems to be a growing interest in cruisers coming to Ecuador. HAWKEYE has been based in Ecuador for two years now and we have really enjoyed being here. The two places to choose from are Bahia de Caraquez and La Libertad/Salinas. Bahia is further north, within half a degree of the Equator and the anchorage is in the estuary of the Rio Chone. A pilot is required to enter the estuary. Cruisers and Puerto Amistad both monitor VHF channel 69.<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-o6qGqzcPvxXcPnZR9RdnTua3dMS1R6y9EPv0ELaSCZWcxCxRAVDxn9gOVmxHUw6D3tOtYdLLMCpuviENB88MzUVgVNQV-_4FirWM6JpAkG_pcxpJW23_tfnvHKlVP2M4lyJFkxQ8D8w/s1600-h/New+marina+in+the+making+%5B320x200%5D.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-o6qGqzcPvxXcPnZR9RdnTua3dMS1R6y9EPv0ELaSCZWcxCxRAVDxn9gOVmxHUw6D3tOtYdLLMCpuviENB88MzUVgVNQV-_4FirWM6JpAkG_pcxpJW23_tfnvHKlVP2M4lyJFkxQ8D8w/s320/New+marina+in+the+making+%5B320x200%5D.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5374966993873745826" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Tripp and Maye Martin developed Puerto Amistad. They were cruising on their Island Packet 30 WALKABOUT two years ago and fell in love with Bahia upon arrival. Prior to their arrival, Gary Swenson, a retired jet-car jockey, had already placed a few moorings in the estuary. Gary had sold his cruising boat QUARTER SPLASH, and was building a beautiful home outside the beach town of Canoa about 10 miles north of Bahia where he now resides with his wife, Merci, a Bahia native.<br /><br />Tripp and Maye spent a year plus going through all <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqPwHHmE5JvdSBibv9FbfzWPZmKe45G2P4AByifzk2ZcP_IATvaOG0KSl6C-AANLqDdR3MKEjyp_TjW64Xsx6dYX6LOQBK9l5ueiH-MrysEhKVm6pIHDqLcCW6VwjNjf27-9MDiWlpgIk/s1600-h/the+gate+2+%5B320x200%5D.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqPwHHmE5JvdSBibv9FbfzWPZmKe45G2P4AByifzk2ZcP_IATvaOG0KSl6C-AANLqDdR3MKEjyp_TjW64Xsx6dYX6LOQBK9l5ueiH-MrysEhKVm6pIHDqLcCW6VwjNjf27-9MDiWlpgIk/s320/the+gate+2+%5B320x200%5D.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5374967012750274722" border="0" /></a>the paperwork to have Puerto Amistad built. Their gorgeous facility caters to both cruisers and locals. They can deliver water, gasoline and diesel to the moored boats, as well as pick up and deliver laundry. The current price for a mooring is $150 per month. They have hot showers and Maye’s open-air restaurant serves wonderful meals and drinks at a reasonable price (large Pilsner beers for $1.) Built over the bay on an old Navy dock, this is not only a hangout for the cruisers’; it is a place to mix with the locals. It is the new “hot-spot” in town and a favorite of visitors from Quito and Guayaquil. The facilities can be used during the daytime to work on sewing projects and <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZ2UrE55daKrXeOe8OxKuzvL9asAd2uCF4j4SpGJoClIZRuoPq7DYxGgTRXKKdYDV97VI1TFPop1tmjPCEaIDx-jG68sjFcG6sMIQMDdjxF7UXMAO68WXVyDGm1EbZRkRLZG24QCfz5WY/s1600-h/Isla+Corazon,+Mangroves+Mud+2+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZ2UrE55daKrXeOe8OxKuzvL9asAd2uCF4j4SpGJoClIZRuoPq7DYxGgTRXKKdYDV97VI1TFPop1tmjPCEaIDx-jG68sjFcG6sMIQMDdjxF7UXMAO68WXVyDGm1EbZRkRLZG24QCfz5WY/s320/Isla+Corazon,+Mangroves+Mud+2+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5374966983843682754" border="0" /></a>classes and has an extensive book exchange. There is no haul out facility at the present time.<br /><br />Bahia is a small town but has a number of high rises that are mostly vacant. It is a beach resort for people from Quito to visit during their holidays and can get a little crowded; the rest of the year it is a quiet town. There are no large grocery stores but most things can be purchased at one tienda or another and there is a wonderful Mercado for fresh fruits, veggies, and meats as well as freshly ground peanut butter and beautiful bouquets of flowers for $1 - and wonderful white pineapples 3 for $1! <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitopmvc_JV_sRhArFQ67FfjO9mjljmmB0uAbPCKbbb3wInTyN2QosssrU_buU0qFjp-Vpm02S9Ezurq6h6mo9tS8pVTG-wwQ4RNkBtkIEeARayRhiBxXR0OvVcKqA-R2KXJdMBOUWzoWI/s1600-h/Street+scene+Bahia+2+%5B320x200%5D.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitopmvc_JV_sRhArFQ67FfjO9mjljmmB0uAbPCKbbb3wInTyN2QosssrU_buU0qFjp-Vpm02S9Ezurq6h6mo9tS8pVTG-wwQ4RNkBtkIEeARayRhiBxXR0OvVcKqA-R2KXJdMBOUWzoWI/s320/Street+scene+Bahia+2+%5B320x200%5D.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5374967000208537618" border="0" /></a>Transportation around town is by “eco-taxi”, or tricicleta, which is a bicycle with 2 front tires and a bench in between them with a little awning over for shade and room under the seat for groceries. A ride from the Mercado to the dinghy dock is 50 cents. Bahia has an extensive Malecon and a beautiful beach where people have found incredible shells, ancient pottery shards and petrified shark and whale teeth.<br /><br />Bahia, well south of the hurricane belt, is a great place to leave your boat and travel inland. There is an air-conditioned bus to Quito 7-8 hrs for about $9 and to Guyaquil for $7 that takes 5 hrs.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFxjVsZHpvAs8ggsHDBitA5jsHSEOAjjcrU_big-Z5TF-jB37z1eUSOKER3jCZkAwhGXRt29VLqjCKnPnygah21wbeAYoNoPUyqZdUTN-tGedwT__LE0fBl1yWj3UKlDy8TEXQACxKFiY/s1600-h/A+98+year+old+fine+specimin+%5B320x200%5D.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFxjVsZHpvAs8ggsHDBitA5jsHSEOAjjcrU_big-Z5TF-jB37z1eUSOKER3jCZkAwhGXRt29VLqjCKnPnygah21wbeAYoNoPUyqZdUTN-tGedwT__LE0fBl1yWj3UKlDy8TEXQACxKFiY/s320/A+98+year+old+fine+specimin+%5B320x200%5D.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5374966349576479858" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4YJaGlnHphFTfdjTqERvy7sU3eJHdvgY41JFpeUqHub6YJQSnNZEAkuqoj0gvXcWAYB6Vme6IUgzS1RKv6wK99qfNgvg2gwG6ex4S7oQZDh-4LR2d7504jhnbxkoTJ1_yRaiVN4ZOevI/s1600-h/DSCF2643+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4YJaGlnHphFTfdjTqERvy7sU3eJHdvgY41JFpeUqHub6YJQSnNZEAkuqoj0gvXcWAYB6Vme6IUgzS1RKv6wK99qfNgvg2gwG6ex4S7oQZDh-4LR2d7504jhnbxkoTJ1_yRaiVN4ZOevI/s320/DSCF2643+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5374966702893090578" border="0" /></a>La Libertad is further south along the coast. Puerto Lucia Yacht Club has a wonderful facility with a 50-ton travel lift, electricity and water at each site. The dry storage and work area is located on a breakwater with a beautiful view of the ocean and is well ventilated with a cooling sea breeze most days. George Stewart, a former Canadian cruiser, runs the yard and his men can do as much or as little work for you as you want. He is knowledgeable and very helpful. His prices <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIVUyrfn1-lIPOfkS1uFP_ShK9RQaBX0Q3iIuziMBIgylVep_7weMsKcF67s7s3Y0oZmImmaPKPLSxuX3AjBwF-OV1XmtEaud6DHUlxd6MtBBgB4pzpM4Cma_9mBR1Ar-6mopd0LBRkhI/s1600-h/Bahia+de+Caraquez+100+%5B320x200%5D.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIVUyrfn1-lIPOfkS1uFP_ShK9RQaBX0Q3iIuziMBIgylVep_7weMsKcF67s7s3Y0oZmImmaPKPLSxuX3AjBwF-OV1XmtEaud6DHUlxd6MtBBgB4pzpM4Cma_9mBR1Ar-6mopd0LBRkhI/s320/Bahia+de+Caraquez+100+%5B320x200%5D.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5374966376495238514" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglBI6rWR38shQPIv1Jn8FXPnR-RytPu5CB8XwIvqOWjx7X4Ptj0wwU8MzbGZ4gSLadpP9C2InYiyD2KMXO5dt4jKw573rsjkgs5xKglYbIsP0yjWSd1WhVwc6B2z46TYHLXV3y6jpr688/s1600-h/anchorage+2+%5B320x200%5D.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglBI6rWR38shQPIv1Jn8FXPnR-RytPu5CB8XwIvqOWjx7X4Ptj0wwU8MzbGZ4gSLadpP9C2InYiyD2KMXO5dt4jKw573rsjkgs5xKglYbIsP0yjWSd1WhVwc6B2z46TYHLXV3y6jpr688/s320/anchorage+2+%5B320x200%5D.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5374966357710627506" border="0" /></a>approach those in the states, but his work is of the highest quality. There are bathrooms close by, and a cruiser “get together” area with tables and chairs under a canopy. For a 40 foot boat, the first month costs about $400 whether on the hard or Med-tied in the harbor. Haul out and back in adds about $350 to this charge. The monthly rate is reduced 10% each month until the 7th month. The yard has room for 20 boats. The Yacht Club has a nice restaurant and wonderful pool as well as tennis courts in a guarded beautiful compound. If you don’t want to stay on your boat while working on it, they have facilities and there are also inexpensive hotels near by. El Paseo shopping center is within walking distance and has boutiques, a supermarket, movie theaters and a food court.<br /><br />Guayaquil is a 2- 2-½ hr bus ride away where there is an international airport and is the <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-OQEA0nyj3hFVW1avz_whKv2-XcqGoNJSo3cJXHcC5ptNSi6GyfZXpeZk0lOXn0jez3BcY8YVVqeEToeUotuZH5uY-GkqwNTMD46POwxpZl3uGvLALqi-sYlX7e_-bV345-pkILQ-_Yo/s1600-h/Cutting+the+cake+%5B320x200%5D.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-OQEA0nyj3hFVW1avz_whKv2-XcqGoNJSo3cJXHcC5ptNSi6GyfZXpeZk0lOXn0jez3BcY8YVVqeEToeUotuZH5uY-GkqwNTMD46POwxpZl3uGvLALqi-sYlX7e_-bV345-pkILQ-_Yo/s320/Cutting+the+cake+%5B320x200%5D.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5374966683094719538" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnx7_CHTFY0mTCDvhUwEST4Ur7sfMq2iD0fkGfIiUo1czzeQWQIzvYjNmUhhyVdLwI9CGV3RWWKikGNoFDwVOE03i6n-luOrSKMcza-Gw2TngWZQnXeesNEvfnyB7OCOw9SZbfBKQBu5o/s1600-h/Bahia+de+Caraquez+085+%5B320x200%5D.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnx7_CHTFY0mTCDvhUwEST4Ur7sfMq2iD0fkGfIiUo1czzeQWQIzvYjNmUhhyVdLwI9CGV3RWWKikGNoFDwVOE03i6n-luOrSKMcza-Gw2TngWZQnXeesNEvfnyB7OCOw9SZbfBKQBu5o/s320/Bahia+de+Caraquez+085+%5B320x200%5D.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5374966370850813410" border="0" /></a>gateway to several inland travel sites. Travel is inexpensive by frequent bus service that goes just about everywhere and hotels are quite reasonable.<br /><br />Which marina to visit? They are so completely different and depending on what your preferences are, they both offer unique experiences. Why not visit them both?<br /><br />Teri from s/v ISHI and I did an inland trip for 2 weeks while John and Gary were doing those jobs on the boat that require tearing the boat completely apart for a long period time and requires the first mate to either sit at one spot or leave the boat. We decided <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-GfuXuJlfzWKtof8w3giVC6cduF3xJ232gUKDKyqtLsC0N1TGGkoQ-h4p-gMhnYWv5Gu1LFJ4pUU5c8cFwATqH4AGgVBc5AGKtToMnY3vMcMoTSeWajIFtkEtPqw6C731K5l_le7gfFQ/s1600-h/Surprise+%5B320x200%5D.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-GfuXuJlfzWKtof8w3giVC6cduF3xJ232gUKDKyqtLsC0N1TGGkoQ-h4p-gMhnYWv5Gu1LFJ4pUU5c8cFwATqH4AGgVBc5AGKtToMnY3vMcMoTSeWajIFtkEtPqw6C731K5l_le7gfFQ/s320/Surprise+%5B320x200%5D.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5374967011245239778" border="0" /></a>we would try to <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhy7mSswYaGNQ7MRysWmADU_uGBz6AyxGbyctCHRrkDCuI_1o8pwWgDaee4pmEQnGt8XmUU04GduCxD5dOlAkvqTBdszOtXEm8YfNMDmkc9-722mhDwImB6v1LCxruvgcCgVWieORpkln8/s1600-h/Bahia+de+Caraquez+036+%5B320x200%5D.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhy7mSswYaGNQ7MRysWmADU_uGBz6AyxGbyctCHRrkDCuI_1o8pwWgDaee4pmEQnGt8XmUU04GduCxD5dOlAkvqTBdszOtXEm8YfNMDmkc9-722mhDwImB6v1LCxruvgcCgVWieORpkln8/s320/Bahia+de+Caraquez+036+%5B320x200%5D.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5374966362315230418" border="0" /></a>limit our expenses to $25 per day and we were pleasantly surprised that it was not difficult to do this. We stayed in adequate hostels and had wonderful meals. The scenery was spectacular, the people friendly. Ecuador offers beautiful beaches, colonial towns, mountain vistas, waterfalls, primary rainforest jungles, pre Inca ruins and many other things. Come and enjoy this wonderful country and its’ people.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikpanrC1nfYPF8HFEEbftNi_HE1BrFH2hh2n6ok0oPTZTLG91z4k-qrWuZN8fA_HPDGXBO9axMnQC-TEtt1S_y1aE20mHMNVl_JtJHL2q6PKRNW1nsH3hL8-csr5cheNRD1JtvuuVfsdA/s1600-h/DSCF2503+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikpanrC1nfYPF8HFEEbftNi_HE1BrFH2hh2n6ok0oPTZTLG91z4k-qrWuZN8fA_HPDGXBO9axMnQC-TEtt1S_y1aE20mHMNVl_JtJHL2q6PKRNW1nsH3hL8-csr5cheNRD1JtvuuVfsdA/s320/DSCF2503+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5374966691315524962" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhN2_hj1kGL48YwVss7psBRifS7f2hgL1YhtYxQlyjyw2da8huRbk6QZs1iFUlwUumSZlqNUt2MtN6GQJt1XhM3-LS29YFH2yDm6E7E1TKwJGhvtptfaCC1ztrw8cRU2g4RQG-yp85GIGk/s1600-h/DSCF2504+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhN2_hj1kGL48YwVss7psBRifS7f2hgL1YhtYxQlyjyw2da8huRbk6QZs1iFUlwUumSZlqNUt2MtN6GQJt1XhM3-LS29YFH2yDm6E7E1TKwJGhvtptfaCC1ztrw8cRU2g4RQG-yp85GIGk/s320/DSCF2504+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5374966701674868946" border="0" /></a><br />We are now getting ready to head back to the South Pacific and new adventures. Linda Keigher & John Kelly, S/V HAWKEYE, Sirena 38<br /><br /><input id="gwProxy" type="hidden"><!--Session data--><input onclick="jsCall();" id="jsProxy" type="hidden"><div id="refHTML"></div><input id="gwProxy" type="hidden"><!--Session data--><input onclick="jsCall();" id="jsProxy" type="hidden"><div id="refHTML"></div><input id="gwProxy" type="hidden"><!--Session data--><input onclick="jsCall();" id="jsProxy" type="hidden"><div id="refHTML"></div><input id="gwProxy" type="hidden"><!--Session data--><input onclick="jsCall();" id="jsProxy" type="hidden"><div id="refHTML"></div>About John and Lindahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09804781596879702975noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-919823168408227838.post-53165082324913470762005-12-31T02:53:00.000+12:002009-09-11T12:19:21.253+12:00BEST ONE DAY JUNGLE TRIP<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimiGZO19FSIOMomptMWfUIUJ80XMdtTVkrknyFWcfpCXrQLzC6OS7wdKB-K-ZQiX0WE8XA9oJhdbZrx4QyH0zUhDfN4nDvkuLQn4L_eW0P-X0t1zeYeguG-bPvzpgVH9eFQZ3KeA93sD4/s1600-h/Bahia+de+Caraquez+070+%5B320x200%5D.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimiGZO19FSIOMomptMWfUIUJ80XMdtTVkrknyFWcfpCXrQLzC6OS7wdKB-K-ZQiX0WE8XA9oJhdbZrx4QyH0zUhDfN4nDvkuLQn4L_eW0P-X0t1zeYeguG-bPvzpgVH9eFQZ3KeA93sD4/s320/Bahia+de+Caraquez+070+%5B320x200%5D.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5374700222645359506" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br />THE BEST ONE DAY JUNGLE TRIP<br /><br />This turned out to be an most incredible day!. There were four of us<br /><br />in our group. Teri, another cruiser friend, myself, and Jane and<br /><br /><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_0">Dwight</span>, friends for many years from the states. We definitely got our<br /><br />money's worth $35 <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1">USD</span> per person. The day started early when Guido,<br /><br />our driver arriving at 7 a.m.to pick us up in from of our <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_2">hostal</span> in a<br /><br />truck with a king cab. There was a young couple from Israel joining<br /><br />us, Alejandro our handsome Ecuadorian guide, and Mark, a college kid<br /><br />from Florida who was to be the interpreter. Since we were the "old<br /><br />folk" we got to sit inside while the rest were in the truck bed,<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9Vyw_bbRHQdIlLPeqz1qZQLMYNLsUulaC9zU8lYDAOcQSoDU4syabfQ_MyXMWGpK_388gdJBXx3CHw60liXjpwp0XOz95QOs8dPh9VdGe51KjTO4h23AvF9TJ0hZQWnzg0iM-U5oFfow/s1600-h/Bahia+de+Caraquez+069+%5B320x200%5D.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9Vyw_bbRHQdIlLPeqz1qZQLMYNLsUulaC9zU8lYDAOcQSoDU4syabfQ_MyXMWGpK_388gdJBXx3CHw60liXjpwp0XOz95QOs8dPh9VdGe51KjTO4h23AvF9TJ0hZQWnzg0iM-U5oFfow/s320/Bahia+de+Caraquez+069+%5B320x200%5D.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5374700212287880690" border="0" /></a><br /><br />sitting on all the rubber boots we would be wearing in our trek<br /><br />through the jungle. We felt sorry for those riding in the back as it<br /><br />was a bit chilly and one of the tunnels we had to drive through leaked<br /><br />water so they got a shower. Guido our driver spoke some English and w<br /><br />came to know his dry sense of humor during our three-hour drive to the<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSzsHTKTycujjeYfIho0Yx0Fs-c-epMHCUJc62lvfuTaLBgcR96mpwcn_tJsjMreK_9soIkHRuVTea03kRkT2hkLYHcqe2vS4SLBvS6Rd-MFDYOJZpzx1oF1n0dIxrkSwhciDwwCK4adg/s1600-h/Linda+Blows+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSzsHTKTycujjeYfIho0Yx0Fs-c-epMHCUJc62lvfuTaLBgcR96mpwcn_tJsjMreK_9soIkHRuVTea03kRkT2hkLYHcqe2vS4SLBvS6Rd-MFDYOJZpzx1oF1n0dIxrkSwhciDwwCK4adg/s320/Linda+Blows+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5374700502180940658" border="0" /></a><br />jungle. We followed the Rio <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_3">Pastaz</span> up impressive canyons and stopped<br /><br />along the way to see two tall waterfalls. At one of the falls some of<br /><br />us rode an open cable car across the gorge right over the top of the<br /><br />falls, an E-ticket ride. The second falls was named El <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_4">Diablo</span> for the<br /><br />face of the devil depicted in a rock in the middle of the falls.<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUzgX0luDiglbXzzVlXHzVlo4eYR7ClzWCVK1RpABHFeCXbrRnxos_7oslJ6Z2PHLLc0JcGj_FN4W6KaVGaX31ap3npfVtEQfU1iGM1zhXgwof_Zo_ZDLrS7gpsI8fyP9x5vW8GFKQBHc/s1600-h/Yucca+drink+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUzgX0luDiglbXzzVlXHzVlo4eYR7ClzWCVK1RpABHFeCXbrRnxos_7oslJ6Z2PHLLc0JcGj_FN4W6KaVGaX31ap3npfVtEQfU1iGM1zhXgwof_Zo_ZDLrS7gpsI8fyP9x5vW8GFKQBHc/s320/Yucca+drink+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5374700632982855138" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Scenes from the movie "Proof of Life" were filmed here.<br /><br />We came to the small town of <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_5">Puyo</span> where we stopped to buy fruit and<br /><br /><span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_6">vegetables</span> and a chicken that would be cooked for our lunch. While<br /><br />Alejandro was buying the groceries, we watched a demonstration on the<br /><br />sidewalk by a very animated man selling some kind of herbs to cure<br /><br />whatever ails you. He had a couple of dummies with innards showing<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8SEtvt9fczRSsy5iOap6OW9tV65xv8R_YyNEoIhc3GYVFdpp8aRwAPREEwhMfP8OQat5Etp_JJ9ncU2BYLSIUB9Kg7VS7uqrD6_LTfXJOd32bdDhdKKHAPHg6AU7w25Pc6k5337Sc_XE/s1600-h/War+paint+2+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8SEtvt9fczRSsy5iOap6OW9tV65xv8R_YyNEoIhc3GYVFdpp8aRwAPREEwhMfP8OQat5Etp_JJ9ncU2BYLSIUB9Kg7VS7uqrD6_LTfXJOd32bdDhdKKHAPHg6AU7w25Pc6k5337Sc_XE/s320/War+paint+2+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5374700529046904370" border="0" /></a><br /><br />for visual effects. Even without understanding the Spanish, his talk<br /><br />was very effective and we were entertained, as was the large attentive<br /><br />crowd around him.<br /><br />Half an hour more and we were at our first stop in the jungle. A<br /><br />walk across a village where we saw the jewelry crafts and pottery of<br /><br />the women and brought some things very cheaply. We each took a shot<br /><br />at blowing the blow gun at a papaya on a stick and then drank out of a<br /><br />communal bowl some <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_7">jungle</span> juice made from the yucca plant. Alejandro,<br /><div style="text-align: left;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhkAU1R4CQJVq1D4ZFuORKzQtz9-NvVAOXERqf7qmNYzQTjUgNFIZrbkwYWlzoPEV6pIdT3NgR068wGeDbpILWnrrunE2lIX6zVcv4SEDxH18zQnKiho-6sOr7Lw7kIyca8yocRsxBego/s1600-h/Teri+in+the+jungle+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhkAU1R4CQJVq1D4ZFuORKzQtz9-NvVAOXERqf7qmNYzQTjUgNFIZrbkwYWlzoPEV6pIdT3NgR068wGeDbpILWnrrunE2lIX6zVcv4SEDxH18zQnKiho-6sOr7Lw7kIyca8yocRsxBego/s320/Teri+in+the+jungle+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5374700519708072098" border="0" /></a><br /></div>with feathered crown on his head, presented a great picture when he<br /><br />shot the blowgun and actually hit the target. It was then we found<br /><br />out he was born and raised in the jungle and is attending school to be<br /><br />a doctor. A very interesting fellow!<br /><br />Back into the truck and off on a dirt road to a path in the jungle<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiirgm2OzZrglpvT63ij4P2Ub1aRfPfbPu3YlvryBE1iUOtfsJaPuDHcVQ71lfdeVFjx6jHoRHT4Jmc2eFqdoFTuqVC-jyOnPUaKF9HB21gyrphWiASKpNFmPgQMUTBxbcWZAFYm2j1RhI/s1600-h/Bahia+de+Caraquez+098+%5B320x200%5D.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiirgm2OzZrglpvT63ij4P2Ub1aRfPfbPu3YlvryBE1iUOtfsJaPuDHcVQ71lfdeVFjx6jHoRHT4Jmc2eFqdoFTuqVC-jyOnPUaKF9HB21gyrphWiASKpNFmPgQMUTBxbcWZAFYm2j1RhI/s320/Bahia+de+Caraquez+098+%5B320x200%5D.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5374700228943645330" border="0" /></a><br />where we hiked a muddy trail to a waterfall. Along the path Alejandro<br /><br />pointed out different plants, made an animal trap with branches and<br /><br />vines, had us eating "lemon" ants and a twig that gives you energy,<br /><br />and a sniff of a certain tree bark that gave a jolt to the sinuses.<br /><br />At the end of the trail, were a waterfall and a pool where, we stopped<br /><br />for a swim in the clear cold water. On the walk back through the<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhKlQK7cgL7OqHogpqCFYAfKjajRBIj1cX4t7AMXmzM5lxgXbgSf3piiJucNTgwg8iun58MVnCHw0VXUmEOFzkrPx-Mt5-0_eJrig1w7vpbSB_bzkLGcreKQdDAMLhQaM_YyjE2119muA/s1600-h/S3010028+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhKlQK7cgL7OqHogpqCFYAfKjajRBIj1cX4t7AMXmzM5lxgXbgSf3piiJucNTgwg8iun58MVnCHw0VXUmEOFzkrPx-Mt5-0_eJrig1w7vpbSB_bzkLGcreKQdDAMLhQaM_YyjE2119muA/s320/S3010028+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5374700509988326722" border="0" /></a><br />jungle,Alejandro pointed out the "vibrator plant" with roots that did<br /><br />in fact look like a male body part sticking out around the base of the<br /><br />plant.Another short ride in the truck brought us to <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_8">some one's</span> compound<br /><br />on the river where they had been cooking our chicken and we were fed a<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmT0-WZY6W6BEMjgPkuJkmp5aqfHmC0yj8Nlsrlzw-pQKQtbMD7VaIYO_wUHo2dOcJghBxAYLODPq-MWbzGc2SZ0HQMQftJSFOCOt4sOgMKIN2Xwf4BefrsHxmwXjHKhViSXkheil3F4s/s1600-h/Dinner+guest+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmT0-WZY6W6BEMjgPkuJkmp5aqfHmC0yj8Nlsrlzw-pQKQtbMD7VaIYO_wUHo2dOcJghBxAYLODPq-MWbzGc2SZ0HQMQftJSFOCOt4sOgMKIN2Xwf4BefrsHxmwXjHKhViSXkheil3F4s/s320/Dinner+guest+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5374700250692145010" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_9">beautifully</span> prepared lunch. It was lightly raining so we sat at a<br /><br />table under a <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_10">palapa</span> roof and shared our meal with a friendly little<br /><br />green parrot that was a glutton, jumping from shoulder to shoulder for<br /><br />handouts. The meal ended, the rain ended and we all climbed into a<br /><br />dugout canoe and were paddled down the river, bottoming out in a few<br /><br />places through some rapids.<br /><br />Down stream we were met by our truck and taken to the last place of<br /><br />our jungle day. It was a stairway, up a hundred steps, to a lookout<br /><br />point over the rive plane. Looking out over the great view was a<br /><br />crude house occupied by an Indian woodcarver, his dog, and a cute<br /><br />little night monkey who ate our last banana. We were invited into the<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhheI7NWEVMG-nP61yr_WgfpGvGJL007qziVT-Gb7iyMnhug6CZ1ZIL2Dst_21tRWH_FBEWdXk_rgB3ep-cq-QMNLjc7rai_3qNpxU3ZBO_05cqno_jmI5hsMfv1QH6LfDqJ7jWuuhoVP8/s1600-h/Bahia+de+Caraquez+117+%5B320x200%5D.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhheI7NWEVMG-nP61yr_WgfpGvGJL007qziVT-Gb7iyMnhug6CZ1ZIL2Dst_21tRWH_FBEWdXk_rgB3ep-cq-QMNLjc7rai_3qNpxU3ZBO_05cqno_jmI5hsMfv1QH6LfDqJ7jWuuhoVP8/s320/Bahia+de+Caraquez+117+%5B320x200%5D.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5374700238107468050" border="0" /></a><br />house where Alejandro played the drum while we danced around the fire.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCh_gaB7VMBWZLG31XRGsG8VSDuk3fX7qEn2UaJ-Siag-4GL0ick1qWVFriFkYjKLcJSw0i4ExDz9t7Mncz3StJKK0hvu0ZvPB2Bl8k5sVa2czeHB7SUvVTNrdy3eGgJQMPYTvZQ5JafI/s1600-h/Jane+and+Dwight+dance+2+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCh_gaB7VMBWZLG31XRGsG8VSDuk3fX7qEn2UaJ-Siag-4GL0ick1qWVFriFkYjKLcJSw0i4ExDz9t7Mncz3StJKK0hvu0ZvPB2Bl8k5sVa2czeHB7SUvVTNrdy3eGgJQMPYTvZQ5JafI/s320/Jane+and+Dwight+dance+2+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5374700494366101602" border="0" /></a><br /><br />In the last light of day, we trekked back down the steps to the truck,<br /><br />to sit back and recap our day on the 3 hour drive back to <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_11">Banos</span>. What<br /><br />a wonderful day!!<input id="gwProxy" type="hidden"><!--Session data--><input onclick="jsCall();" id="jsProxy" type="hidden"><div id="refHTML"></div><input id="gwProxy" type="hidden"><!--Session data--><input onclick="jsCall();" id="jsProxy" type="hidden"><div id="refHTML"></div>About John and Lindahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09804781596879702975noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-919823168408227838.post-66711079048340914632005-12-31T02:27:00.000+12:002009-09-11T12:10:16.616+12:00HAWKEYE HAPPENINGS, December, 2005<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1eK32bb8TrFerieUZ3jaK6zZAOkjjMyxUurK_EQLsYxGUc8uqp1V0H6TSuJUmGN7aYQV-xADEybz6x1C9wNW98rYAmBhDCIEQK_Q1ocXrHZGc8nt2L7hTNuVhLs9wpsVGrfaVziW7wWQ/s1600-h/Peru+1679+%5B320x200%5D.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1eK32bb8TrFerieUZ3jaK6zZAOkjjMyxUurK_EQLsYxGUc8uqp1V0H6TSuJUmGN7aYQV-xADEybz6x1C9wNW98rYAmBhDCIEQK_Q1ocXrHZGc8nt2L7hTNuVhLs9wpsVGrfaVziW7wWQ/s320/Peru+1679+%5B320x200%5D.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5374858453746551810" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Highlights of the Peru Trip<br /><br />I had set up the dates for this trip when I was in the USA visiting my brother, Terry, and sister-in-law, Gerry, as well as old friends Tom & Eileen Riordan. As the date approached, John found he was not able to get everything done that he needed to do in the States (he had sold his property in the Seattle area and was trying to do a 1031 exchange for a duplex in the San Francisco Bay area). Sailing friends, Nancy and Herman of the sailing vessel SEA TERN decided to join me on the trip. The following are excerpts from my log of that five-week trip:<br /><br />Sat., Nov 5. Piura. We walked around the Plaza de Armas and visited a Cathedral on the s<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNn8scSk0iX_D9Bp6h6pSV9NxDIrG4LRo23i00MhY2m0VFGIWIvbyWasMUZ8UVepKGhddzLBr1V-uj_-1-qhyoMR73r7BwwG24xpgagWQMt8oqdZLZxUe19BL99JFKTPiBu-sOjFN5u9w/s1600-h/Peru+018+%5B320x200%5D.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 227px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNn8scSk0iX_D9Bp6h6pSV9NxDIrG4LRo23i00MhY2m0VFGIWIvbyWasMUZ8UVepKGhddzLBr1V-uj_-1-qhyoMR73r7BwwG24xpgagWQMt8oqdZLZxUe19BL99JFKTPiBu-sOjFN5u9w/s320/Peru+018+%5B320x200%5D.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5374861411747742674" border="0" /></a>quare then managed to get a colectivo (this is like a VW bus with several seats in it) to visit the craft market in the village of Catacaos. This village is noted for their basket weaving, filigree jewelry, wooden utensils, pottery, and carved gourds. Our ride back to Piura was in a 12-passenger van<br />with 18 people in it!<br /><br />While walking back to our hotel at 3 p.m. and while in a busy intersection, a guy ran up, punched Nancy in the arm (as a distraction) and stole Herm’s change purse off his belt. The guy almost got Herm’s camera, which was on his belt right next to the change purse. The guy went running down the street and was gone before anyone could give chase. Nancy ended up with a large bruise on her arm but amount of the theft was less than $10.<br /><br />Sun., Nov 6. Chiclayo. We visited the National Museum of Sipan, where artifacts of the Mocha Indigenous People of Sipan who lived in the area about 2000 years ago (well before the Inca) were exhibited. These people used gold, copper, and silver to make their elaborate clothing and armor. They used spondylus shell from Ecuador and thread of cotton to make great neck coverings. Their graves were filled with these riches, which were uncovered after some grave robbers had broken into a minor grave in the area but fortunately did not get into the richest one.<br /><br />“Motos” are a popular means of transportation in the cities of Peru. These are mo<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJv0ZG-7jt6I3QT-ouCG2KC_xDoNmCygo8rJfVfNPL-LM4nWkWJgZD1u-YeZt_olm8zXuG-F6X2OfqTKTfcedqYrezwLT11xwqgAdm0FmWZleiPFhnIrHwupviKA0tFSHd_eYq3NJddQ8/s1600-h/Peru+026+%5B320x200%5D.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJv0ZG-7jt6I3QT-ouCG2KC_xDoNmCygo8rJfVfNPL-LM4nWkWJgZD1u-YeZt_olm8zXuG-F6X2OfqTKTfcedqYrezwLT11xwqgAdm0FmWZleiPFhnIrHwupviKA0tFSHd_eYq3NJddQ8/s320/Peru+026+%5B320x200%5D.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5374861435121836562" border="0" /></a>torcycles that have 2 wheels in the back with a seat between them. They have a roof and side curtains. Some are quite elaborately decorated. This mode of transport is cheaper than a taxi for short distances.<br /><br />The next spot we visited was the village along the coast where they still use the reed boats for fishing. We examined the boats and watched the fisherman go out and come in to the beach in them. Nowadays, they use styrofoam with the reeds around the outside but they still don’t look very sturdy to go out on the ocean.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgh4jYZmV-iEki1swaryYUuv3XJeqGtU_4XIr65iRDtm0wy0jPskCCkHtTQd2k8lKxFD4moBz1_Lc_nFPaVsn1PnVHqvm1WLcPPyNAuIeLmBXMJ1AMMWSWklnCWPRR4gEvOvR-dp9Cc7c4/s1600-h/Peru+281+%5B320x200%5D.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgh4jYZmV-iEki1swaryYUuv3XJeqGtU_4XIr65iRDtm0wy0jPskCCkHtTQd2k8lKxFD4moBz1_Lc_nFPaVsn1PnVHqvm1WLcPPyNAuIeLmBXMJ1AMMWSWklnCWPRR4gEvOvR-dp9Cc7c4/s320/Peru+281+%5B320x200%5D.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5374862554069499042" border="0" /></a><br />Tues., Nov 8. Trujillo. The ride on Impresa Buscama was most comfortable. This was our first time on such a comfortable bus. On the bottom floor, the seats are only 3 across. They are like recliner chairs with leg rests and huge picture windows for viewing. Terrible videos are played as on most long distance buses south of the US/Mexican border but the scenery is great and we try to block out the noise of the full volume speakers.<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSxeHmg2_r2Bks0q-FaJ20bPFJG7LgTUrG6Va6PEEoGIlv6qGd6LQy42hezf6LINHLd8zVbAw0iVn46cBm_6ObrktoUmRBhZf5akptRC1DVkVRPTiGcuPkxRI7jyKcNXv9xaXffGIBro8/s1600-h/Peru+052+%5B320x200%5D.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSxeHmg2_r2Bks0q-FaJ20bPFJG7LgTUrG6Va6PEEoGIlv6qGd6LQy42hezf6LINHLd8zVbAw0iVn46cBm_6ObrktoUmRBhZf5akptRC1DVkVRPTiGcuPkxRI7jyKcNXv9xaXffGIBro8/s320/Peru+052+%5B320x200%5D.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5374861452391394562" border="0" /></a><br /><br />We visited Museo Cassinelli and saw an amazing collection of 3000 pieces of pottery dating back to 1200 B.C. and up to the Moches period. This was quite an experience. We arrived and a man opened the door. He had great difficulty getting the ticket book in the right position for us to sign the tickets. We guessed he was almost blind. After we did the tickets to his satisfaction, he hunted for the door lock to let us into the basement museum. Even though he did not speak English, and our Spanish is “poquito”, he managed to explain quite a few of the pottery pieces to us. He made us quite nervous handling these 2000-year-old pottery pieces and several times knocked pieces off their little stands but his luck held and none of them broke (there were a few stands where things were evidently “missing” but we didn’t want to know!).<br /><br />Wed., Nov 9. Our tour of the day was to the Temple of the Moon. These ruins turned out to be over 6 levels high. New buildings built over ruins of other generations with painted walls of many different patterns. The Moche god “Decapitator” was depicted in various moods from anger to happiness. Grave robbers had destroyed part of the temple and removed unknown riches and ceramics from the 1600’s. Later, at the museo in Trujillo, we saw some that had been recovered.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNlwXtxB8a5cx7AnmJ6_j8TL0Ee9z81AMRARCRk5O3zSuRguQEh_9hcFK2hyX-8_QNK-m-7F9ZGcDb5BfteE-9FEZiCfiD6jruHoCZNztuHCiTsUc1HfQxhKk97RGPeN5r0VKCVBdOjqs/s1600-h/Peru+029+%5B320x200%5D.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNlwXtxB8a5cx7AnmJ6_j8TL0Ee9z81AMRARCRk5O3zSuRguQEh_9hcFK2hyX-8_QNK-m-7F9ZGcDb5BfteE-9FEZiCfiD6jruHoCZNztuHCiTsUc1HfQxhKk97RGPeN5r0VKCVBdOjqs/s320/Peru+029+%5B320x200%5D.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5374861442230739170" border="0" /></a><br />Thurs., Nov 10. The Banco Central museum was the first item on our list for today. It was a wonderful museum as are most Banco Central Museos in Peru. There were 3 tables with double legs in each corner and a marble bathtub in the garden. We explored colonial buildings and museums and ate wonderful turkey sandwiches and ice cream. We visited the ruins of Chan Chan where the Spaniards had taken all the riches from the graves and destroyed most of the ruins. Chan Chan was a large development and the grounds cover several miles. There are many intricate designs in the adobe walls.<br /><br />Fri., Nov 11. After an all night bus ride, we arrived in the beautiful town of Huraz at the elevation of 3200 meters (just under 10,000 feet). We immediately noticed the elevation upon alighting from the bus. Getting up the stairs to our rooms at our hostel was a chore that had us gasping for breath. After a short nap and shower, it was now 7:30 a.m.; we had some breakfast and a chat with Edward of Edward’s Inn. He is an interesting fellow who has learned English from the tourists that visit his inn. He is also an accomplished mountain climber and has scaled every major mountain in South America. He leads climbs in season. Edward set us up for a tour of the area. We visited Laguna Cullicocha, which is a glacial lake of brilliant blue water. The view of the <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZH5JLEJThhOAZY9zJlLVz1cWAO2ZHGpGlDlQxYEcgOC6Nkj_sgm5DJZ8gZIwBVsMRg42qKvr0lLwz4fYQ2WZ7JB2kXRQwPBRUhpSH5R7ryS6ZmTngkeIP8i7Sdo7XIz0H13h4bUPwjfQ/s1600-h/Peru+253+%5B320x200%5D.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZH5JLEJThhOAZY9zJlLVz1cWAO2ZHGpGlDlQxYEcgOC6Nkj_sgm5DJZ8gZIwBVsMRg42qKvr0lLwz4fYQ2WZ7JB2kXRQwPBRUhpSH5R7ryS6ZmTngkeIP8i7Sdo7XIz0H13h4bUPwjfQ/s320/Peru+253+%5B320x200%5D.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5374862569463153122" border="0" /></a>mountain peaks covered with snow is unforgettable. We went out on the lake in a rowboat and hiked around a little, still trying to get used to the “thin air”. Several stops were made along the way back to Huraz; one of which was Yungay. In 1970, there was an earthquake that caused an avalanche, which buried Yungay killing 18,000 people. The guide was a child at that time and his life, together with those of several other children from the village, was saved. The children were attending a circus away from the direct hit of the avalanche. As there were so many orphaned children who had lost all of their family, the government decided to allow these children to be adopted by people all over the world. Our guide had some family so he stayed in the area and was raised there. There is an impressive monument and a very large crypt housing several of the bodies.<br /><br />Sat., Nov 12. We got a taxi to a viewpoint over the city of Huraz. I decided to climb to the highest point for a spectacular view of not only the valley, but also the snow capped mountains surrounding the valley. Nancy had on shoes with no traction and had a hard time going down the hill. I loved the hike but it was hard on both Nancy and Herm. I ended up on some steps overlooking a farmer’s fields with him watering his alfalfa. It was a beautiful view and felt good just sitting there. Nancy and Herman went a different way and Nancy fell and got all scratched up. It was not a good hike for her but she does darn well for 78 years old!<br /><br />Sun., Nov 13. I decided to take another tour to Chavin ruins, which were totally different from the adobe ruins we had seen previously. This ruin was made of stone and was the home of about 200 priests. The courtyards were laid out using exact measurements, taking into account the sun, and solstices. The interesting thing was that an impressive stela is in the center of the buildings underground. It is obvious the stela was done first and then the building built around it. These priests slept underground in very small rooms with vents for fresh air. We were able to go into these halls and small rooms underground. Getting to Chavin required going through a tunnel in the mountain at an elevation of 4500 meters (14,800 feet). There are people living at this elevation! The guide told me that they live in stone huts with grass roofs that I had seen on the ride up but thought they were for grains or animals. He said that families averaging 8 people live in these huts. They eat only 2 meals a day. They cannot raise crops at this elevation but raise sheep and llamas, which they use for food and wool, which they sell or use to make items to sell. They have no doctors or schools in this area. They watch over their animals all day and return to their homes in the evening-a very hard life.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjokcSPgNOEpQUJw7wJ__Xuh0q0qHpptdqYnbZ4cyGPT_qOVTrLLNMzgzwh8IjUakoGT8QCQQUBlqT_Iaq2rJavjpM8pguTgSHTLmmoWktpzUlpLRNGVLvPeJ1DrBtK9V0d9JKum_geww0/s1600-h/Peru+001+%5B320x200%5D.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjokcSPgNOEpQUJw7wJ__Xuh0q0qHpptdqYnbZ4cyGPT_qOVTrLLNMzgzwh8IjUakoGT8QCQQUBlqT_Iaq2rJavjpM8pguTgSHTLmmoWktpzUlpLRNGVLvPeJ1DrBtK9V0d9JKum_geww0/s320/Peru+001+%5B320x200%5D.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5374861424598077890" border="0" /></a><br />Mon., Nov 14. Later in the day, Herm decided he would go back to the room and Nancy and I walked around the market. We got down to the Mercado and I felt a person right next to me. I turned to look at him and didn’t like the looks of him. Another guy was on the side of Nancy. I stopped and yelled for Nancy to stop. The guys stopped also. I backed up to a car and told Nancy to follow me. We walked into the street and into the boulevard in the middle. A woman came up to us and said “robbers”. I said, “si, robbers”. The two guys, both with a jacket over their shoulder covering their hand, took off and we walked back to our hotel feeling very lucky. I had just gone to the bank and had money in a back pocket but had my jacket tied around my waist hiding my pockets, which seems to work for me so far.<br /><br />Tues., Nov. 15, Lima. We had a ceviche lunch that was delicious after being hounded as we got out of the cab by representatives of all the restaurants. When finished, they wanted to charge us way too much but I said no and we only paid the price on the menu. Had our first pisco sour (rum, egg white, and lime juice), the national drink of Peru.<br /><br />We tried to get a moto to take us back to our hotel but they can’t go on some streets. I had waved to some policemen that went by in a car and they turned around and stopped. They asked where we were going and told us to get in. We were told we were not in a safe neighborhood and they took us to a museum. It was great fun talking to them and they were concerned about us. Nancy took a picture of Herm and me with the policemen. They were great guys and we had lots of laughs even though we didn’t speak the same language!<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieNfo72P8I2-tkVPlxX9Z2wuv4h1PrTkTml7_V9xNFxxcnIs6AYVeh0oNsWAMUYVZPlHl89adXHK3mgch6J29Z9-xG_E3bLSQ47NBBoCkqGfuGAU3zAFHQyXz-eqdwkWP2_IaIZIADNfo/s1600-h/Peru+069+%5B320x200%5D.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieNfo72P8I2-tkVPlxX9Z2wuv4h1PrTkTml7_V9xNFxxcnIs6AYVeh0oNsWAMUYVZPlHl89adXHK3mgch6J29Z9-xG_E3bLSQ47NBBoCkqGfuGAU3zAFHQyXz-eqdwkWP2_IaIZIADNfo/s320/Peru+069+%5B320x200%5D.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5374862575865259890" border="0" /></a><br />The museum they took us to was great. We really enjoyed the tour and explanation of the pictures that the indigenous people painted for the Spanish after they had Catholicism shoved down their throats. They revolted in subtle ways like putting cuy (Peru delicacy of guinea pig) in a painting of the last supper.<br /><br />That evening, as prearranged, Gerry, Terry, Eileen and Tom arrived at 11 p.m. in Lima. I felt they had missed so much all ready but more was to come!<br /><br />We visited Museo de la Nacion, which is a huge museo on several floors. We had a guide that explained all the different indigenous peoples in chronological order. Each floor, from bottom up, was of a different era and a very interesting 3 hr tour. We then toured a San Francisco convent and church and catacombs filled with bones.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwpoiByh6Iiy8qAUDMysiJqa195VeFlnonVRTgX0Ag9O0L4iGIfv4W8Pqbju1YqtGmbmBu_gviiK2hvl6POAXbCQ4W-Gu5hc8UGlzhonM5-v12wndlBmzQDwBnzKnF05S2GidP-jwRhEI/s1600-h/Peru+1283+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwpoiByh6Iiy8qAUDMysiJqa195VeFlnonVRTgX0Ag9O0L4iGIfv4W8Pqbju1YqtGmbmBu_gviiK2hvl6POAXbCQ4W-Gu5hc8UGlzhonM5-v12wndlBmzQDwBnzKnF05S2GidP-jwRhEI/s320/Peru+1283+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5374860433714644898" border="0" /></a><br />Sat Nov 19. At an elevation of 3326 meters, Cuzco was the Inca capital and the hub of travel in Peru. Cuzco has a great Plaza de Armas and lots of colonial buildings. We took a tour, visiting several churches as well as some buildings built on top of Inca ruins and the ruins of Sacsayhuman, Qenko, Puca Pucara and Tambo Machay. On another day, Terry, Tom and I revisited Sacsayhuman again and spent about 3 hours viewing these awesome ruins. One of the rocks that they moved to build one of the walls weights over 300 tons. How did they do it???<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiv-HKiqojGpV6xYbZPcXlGE0dkcxtu5iYY1v4MfEQsdSDxcDLIKn3OQeYv676t1y5yS9Poo3hFflKxscVZZ_60lDpJRkfNwdccDjgqeaZHONxxgeM6XUjLS5ly9kghfrlWBhxqDv8lqdg/s1600-h/Peru+1320+%5B320x200%5D.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiv-HKiqojGpV6xYbZPcXlGE0dkcxtu5iYY1v4MfEQsdSDxcDLIKn3OQeYv676t1y5yS9Poo3hFflKxscVZZ_60lDpJRkfNwdccDjgqeaZHONxxgeM6XUjLS5ly9kghfrlWBhxqDv8lqdg/s320/Peru+1320+%5B320x200%5D.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5374843551180483170" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3Ohy2MvyBDR5k_qY7vzROiDo72k-0MQplLd8XQE59jQAt1OdR25_m9e1Ch1h3Q8i_G5aO4FLh_NPsw8qGeFNAmft2dcCu4Ws00tzMb3jaMmY11jLsYzNYHJ-h_p8r0vUHCJ0DrfEIbCo/s1600-h/Peru+745+%5B320x200%5D.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3Ohy2MvyBDR5k_qY7vzROiDo72k-0MQplLd8XQE59jQAt1OdR25_m9e1Ch1h3Q8i_G5aO4FLh_NPsw8qGeFNAmft2dcCu4Ws00tzMb3jaMmY11jLsYzNYHJ-h_p8r0vUHCJ0DrfEIbCo/s320/Peru+745+%5B320x200%5D.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5374843528113507426" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Sun, Nov 20. The Sacred Valley Tour started with a visit to a large craft market at Pisca and<br />then to various ruins <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7JtyFTtD8-FHgcs-Y2WUQ_NAIZuEiMrPILG0BErHNAOb8q2MjdcrBza7aMHbqr3_vuLjm2tL2bXYBVg3ZpR2Yyxic1nIl3oJX7aGwIEV4Vo7m_25WLdHo8ZTLE6U_EAiwXy1NnqiYFIA/s1600-h/Peru+813+%5B320x200%5D.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7JtyFTtD8-FHgcs-Y2WUQ_NAIZuEiMrPILG0BErHNAOb8q2MjdcrBza7aMHbqr3_vuLjm2tL2bXYBVg3ZpR2Yyxic1nIl3oJX7aGwIEV4Vo7m_25WLdHo8ZTLE6U_EAiwXy1NnqiYFIA/s320/Peru+813+%5B320x200%5D.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5374843540200909922" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br />one of which was Ollanntaytambo. These ruins feature interlocking rocks that are virtually earthquake-proof. The site, a massive fortress, is one of the few places the Spanish lost a major battle during the conquest. The village was divided into blocks called canchas, each cancha with just one entrance leading into a courtyard. Individual houses were entered from this courtyard, not directly from the street.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-ziKfPhqNoauI4ydIqMo0SzyCLcl4cyZ8_MtNO8-C4NFJs5p4Hg3gRb2ED8O9Ydqbk7sPR2Uglox8xSxNLIb6CVZfs4FvUFFkWRt1XGhr7Dh861Vd3egCowZF6I-l-akDXg8iNNnLsqA/s1600-h/Peru+619+%5B320x200%5D.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-ziKfPhqNoauI4ydIqMo0SzyCLcl4cyZ8_MtNO8-C4NFJs5p4Hg3gRb2ED8O9Ydqbk7sPR2Uglox8xSxNLIb6CVZfs4FvUFFkWRt1XGhr7Dh861Vd3egCowZF6I-l-akDXg8iNNnLsqA/s320/Peru+619+%5B320x200%5D.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5374843510517288482" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjL-4dmp9lj5PxECxxf8N06cPdPV5d1kNBFbyeVprpSPX81yFCjBflTqDuswrZGfM_CR5mwCR6yTScju8GD4YQvaY6L-8SiWFHRJ3HxzqAAodx-U0hZt7eZyMdq5ZNey_ylXOCoWsFBzlg/s1600-h/Peru+726+%5B320x200%5D.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjL-4dmp9lj5PxECxxf8N06cPdPV5d1kNBFbyeVprpSPX81yFCjBflTqDuswrZGfM_CR5mwCR6yTScju8GD4YQvaY6L-8SiWFHRJ3HxzqAAodx-U0hZt7eZyMdq5ZNey_ylXOCoWsFBzlg/s320/Peru+726+%5B320x200%5D.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5374843520617445282" border="0" /></a><br />The huge, steep terraces guarding the Inca fortress are spectacular. Ollantaytambo is the fortress to which Manco Inca retreated after his defeat at Sacsayhuaman. In 1536 Hernando Pizarro led a force of 70 cavalry here in an attempt to capture the Inca. The steep terracing was highly defensible and Pizarro’s men found themselves continuously showered with arrows, spears, stones and boulders. They were unable to climb the terraces and were further hampered when the Inca, in a brilliant move, flooded the plain below the fortress through previously prepared channels. Manco Inca’s victory was short lived, however, as the Spanish attacked again with 4 times the forces and finally took over.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyZTmlKlSQGs4FEXVtvXm9vfqOPNhj-inxSYGwpx1oOTk5UDkkQJn-yGEf-fYiTahxirnV1tE71VNI-XxMVHnU_KhNKAd_XcEPm1lQIBAC-UhwkfN60beQacHOyOK5aRFoh19W0rCvbU8/s1600-h/Peru+1048+%5B320x200%5D.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyZTmlKlSQGs4FEXVtvXm9vfqOPNhj-inxSYGwpx1oOTk5UDkkQJn-yGEf-fYiTahxirnV1tE71VNI-XxMVHnU_KhNKAd_XcEPm1lQIBAC-UhwkfN60beQacHOyOK5aRFoh19W0rCvbU8/s320/Peru+1048+%5B320x200%5D.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5374858918856530482" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmE3rGBLmgSUwNLZYGO5nFV4KQ59ryPAZqyY43ZL849weeQ08_G-P2CoCw3WDKi8_JxisbdIk8hYIGWexahou87fbCERCly03y0rrXYNjZ6NQPWSpdBk8mXZepSEtTDlgSflYWapktwZE/s1600-h/Peru+1053+%5B320x200%5D.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmE3rGBLmgSUwNLZYGO5nFV4KQ59ryPAZqyY43ZL849weeQ08_G-P2CoCw3WDKi8_JxisbdIk8hYIGWexahou87fbCERCly03y0rrXYNjZ6NQPWSpdBk8mXZepSEtTDlgSflYWapktwZE/s320/Peru+1053+%5B320x200%5D.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5374858500147982146" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdJZYFutu4dZ4uGYBBBAeh5YSdD4uheAPR2mTf0kBN8pR-jGu2QPcJxF72dNHCb0F7E-N4wENTfBfJ47EMhAWmFpxzVoU4k53aUIJQvYhZJf3yBc7AYyO1MFiXavcFKS83i-QUdo9iMGE/s1600-h/Peru+1059+%5B320x200%5D.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdJZYFutu4dZ4uGYBBBAeh5YSdD4uheAPR2mTf0kBN8pR-jGu2QPcJxF72dNHCb0F7E-N4wENTfBfJ47EMhAWmFpxzVoU4k53aUIJQvYhZJf3yBc7AYyO1MFiXavcFKS83i-QUdo9iMGE/s320/Peru+1059+%5B320x200%5D.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5374858494389538498" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKoLkRnIyKuaNe-f5rdx-ca6SBydyRrd3KYnRPa1Bp52GCp4c-5Wu9te6-CK4f8TeHZqf1ulp5EyHOpntPJ3d_-Yd4j7PeRHYtXdMgtLzXg5s_c8_9CpyN_Kw099AAuOQp2yxg5IDa7g4/s1600-h/Peru+1469+%5B320x200%5D.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKoLkRnIyKuaNe-f5rdx-ca6SBydyRrd3KYnRPa1Bp52GCp4c-5Wu9te6-CK4f8TeHZqf1ulp5EyHOpntPJ3d_-Yd4j7PeRHYtXdMgtLzXg5s_c8_9CpyN_Kw099AAuOQp2yxg5IDa7g4/s320/Peru+1469+%5B320x200%5D.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5374858465992672786" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Tues, Nov 22. The Big Day. We met our guide at 6:15 a.m. at the town square in Aguas Callentes and bussed to Machu Piccu, the “Lost City of the Incas” found by Hiram Bingham in 1911. It remains a mystery as to its’ function but is the least damaged ruins in Peru. The two-hour tour was very informative and then we were free to explore on our own. Terry, Gerry, Eileen and I climbed Huayna Picchu from Machu Picchu. Terry and I went on to find a geocache, climbed to the Inca Drawbridge and then up the Inca Trail towards the gate of the Sun. Terry made it to the gate but I couldn’t keep up and started down as we were to get the last bus down the mountain at 2:30 p.m. I got lost and ended up way too far down, exhausted, but got to the bus at 2:30.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinQW_VYzXNAlECimFffrIxb-UZXXCP2sTgDnUgtzWTIiebWe_35jCuNO1su8eKkea_gecTo97uD9YObYxoH-j2-NKS58G1sEg6fyuTgPBgKhYOT8lgcMcKsWPOLoYp0GpxDVnsDz6QsNs/s1600-h/Peru+446+%5B320x200%5D.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinQW_VYzXNAlECimFffrIxb-UZXXCP2sTgDnUgtzWTIiebWe_35jCuNO1su8eKkea_gecTo97uD9YObYxoH-j2-NKS58G1sEg6fyuTgPBgKhYOT8lgcMcKsWPOLoYp0GpxDVnsDz6QsNs/s320/Peru+446+%5B320x200%5D.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5374855308646361586" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfd3nYFoDjXLHy_NwTWBJzlzFvS2NM99RhmLu6qjHwJ8AlxYi-mWG6LuUr3h7ZZqx8GSfm4lVv7B3cJlwqPRaO4A3sauXvasFp-KcZ8-S-p9kFFEmr4qR-XyGz0L7qM6E0gkqXjL67tMI/s1600-h/Peru+222+%5B320x200%5D.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfd3nYFoDjXLHy_NwTWBJzlzFvS2NM99RhmLu6qjHwJ8AlxYi-mWG6LuUr3h7ZZqx8GSfm4lVv7B3cJlwqPRaO4A3sauXvasFp-KcZ8-S-p9kFFEmr4qR-XyGz0L7qM6E0gkqXjL67tMI/s320/Peru+222+%5B320x200%5D.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5374855301886869138" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqdybVlvojpmXNQxN3_xjgXAQsKTIaboS-JALcgxucXTMY4zYgOaZSXuHwmUVi0yhDVQz7oGgD-hOF7MFPxk_Pkg9ujCMgFgM9iQMNHc0pPlyeG0guF4YFHpwvuHyHH_j4noNG44r7TkA/s1600-h/Peru+189+%5B320x200%5D.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqdybVlvojpmXNQxN3_xjgXAQsKTIaboS-JALcgxucXTMY4zYgOaZSXuHwmUVi0yhDVQz7oGgD-hOF7MFPxk_Pkg9ujCMgFgM9iQMNHc0pPlyeG0guF4YFHpwvuHyHH_j4noNG44r7TkA/s320/Peru+189+%5B320x200%5D.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5374855290335636562" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhddovh15zWtzFr_WTEqW0SGkdE0dDwJr6kHbgV9bZXAGsFdcIQSCGgahozy4f4pwSGAinuVVDf_Dnnr8PMcAiGWI0iMlES_rIr24OiNX4tWlxnuA_R582sqc1jMj1Ei0E96_nWD99QDng/s1600-h/Peru+168+%5B320x200%5D.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhddovh15zWtzFr_WTEqW0SGkdE0dDwJr6kHbgV9bZXAGsFdcIQSCGgahozy4f4pwSGAinuVVDf_Dnnr8PMcAiGWI0iMlES_rIr24OiNX4tWlxnuA_R582sqc1jMj1Ei0E96_nWD99QDng/s320/Peru+168+%5B320x200%5D.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5374855277667629330" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEis7ZQMqKoN547AWwEGOGMAzWyy6Vu-1h3K1o-bE7kJHlkNtxtVjux_XFx4ysKbbMJMT7P3UfNmDzCpu74HnfUaAJFzUs6vLffzPpY27J7oTa-k7oU4-gDV25sTasmYsp0SNLC3br2OF5A/s1600-h/Peru+163+%5B320x200%5D.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEis7ZQMqKoN547AWwEGOGMAzWyy6Vu-1h3K1o-bE7kJHlkNtxtVjux_XFx4ysKbbMJMT7P3UfNmDzCpu74HnfUaAJFzUs6vLffzPpY27J7oTa-k7oU4-gDV25sTasmYsp0SNLC3br2OF5A/s320/Peru+163+%5B320x200%5D.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5374855262988889858" border="0" /></a><br />Wed, Nov 23.The next adventure was to fly to Puerto Maldanoldo and then down the river by boat to a jungle resort where we stayed for 5 days in a secondary rainforest. The visit to the Monkey Island was disappointing for me as the monkeys were “planted” there and bananas are brought to the island daily and hung from the trees to feed them-a guarantee that the tourists will see monkeys on their trip to the jungle.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcwA5YpSe7H_pYBdhWDBbx2b6ocykUEdCu5zgne6q0HF6IXxQP6YoXimsJRrd7TmCk8Z8jlwm95KX2E7v1xpPuc2f_mcngPv_s43NahWwaqsicK1M2FauC9NbM5EEVsI1IU40NSa7pNaE/s1600-h/Peru+1230+%5B320x200%5D.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcwA5YpSe7H_pYBdhWDBbx2b6ocykUEdCu5zgne6q0HF6IXxQP6YoXimsJRrd7TmCk8Z8jlwm95KX2E7v1xpPuc2f_mcngPv_s43NahWwaqsicK1M2FauC9NbM5EEVsI1IU40NSa7pNaE/s320/Peru+1230+%5B320x200%5D.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5374853280017194322" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdQ5wQRIj942quG4QV482rN-ujS_TNvxGlXML8xQXgzcWU3vbUk8DXdQx542MZDUZnBDy039T3IiTpHYXuYgZ1PKtOEGe5eUiqMSrtGf-b9lQ33bFlgXtQdQAaiDhHLSVOECoIE-jV-Ms/s1600-h/Peru+1220+%5B320x200%5D.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdQ5wQRIj942quG4QV482rN-ujS_TNvxGlXML8xQXgzcWU3vbUk8DXdQx542MZDUZnBDy039T3IiTpHYXuYgZ1PKtOEGe5eUiqMSrtGf-b9lQ33bFlgXtQdQAaiDhHLSVOECoIE-jV-Ms/s320/Peru+1220+%5B320x200%5D.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5374853270876561842" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-4BjDOLP98kdz2RsT4HsY_AGnMYTJQZlrxV85jBWZLpBRzSyDXYUzBfEeIywHQ2OrY_a_3EfohiYAYONBeXQym7FskpAb04bOcwB_3X6OmA53HhcWtPLqj1vaFBV3893tytpwspZk_AQ/s1600-h/Peru+1211+%5B320x200%5D.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-4BjDOLP98kdz2RsT4HsY_AGnMYTJQZlrxV85jBWZLpBRzSyDXYUzBfEeIywHQ2OrY_a_3EfohiYAYONBeXQym7FskpAb04bOcwB_3X6OmA53HhcWtPLqj1vaFBV3893tytpwspZk_AQ/s320/Peru+1211+%5B320x200%5D.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5374853256520643490" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdcFw05wik44_M6ssTUJ-PRb7es8-AnZ55_fw8qpROsOD0rmVTFBuo8lz-U7Q2k9SyV1zuYgJEFMXrvi8K2GM-Y2rUyAukFnPSgWgfDlgbpE3QL7HZJ1wC6GpzQKHROZ4xcRwG_TzWmOg/s1600-h/Peru+1163+%5B320x200%5D.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdcFw05wik44_M6ssTUJ-PRb7es8-AnZ55_fw8qpROsOD0rmVTFBuo8lz-U7Q2k9SyV1zuYgJEFMXrvi8K2GM-Y2rUyAukFnPSgWgfDlgbpE3QL7HZJ1wC6GpzQKHROZ4xcRwG_TzWmOg/s320/Peru+1163+%5B320x200%5D.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5374853250322742882" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyAhH7q61Q6eIZY1mTJZbn_9JVfW7nhUtoVk3qDgjgd8Z7rX2-Uxzntav0HCaegRf07umdyuOil0m7CNyJo6JPkTlCWNxe7GH3ynIs8xDufeyeIuMlrD5_2WKNETjmYiuGBcEojh-V28s/s1600-h/Peru+1158+%5B320x200%5D.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyAhH7q61Q6eIZY1mTJZbn_9JVfW7nhUtoVk3qDgjgd8Z7rX2-Uxzntav0HCaegRf07umdyuOil0m7CNyJo6JPkTlCWNxe7GH3ynIs8xDufeyeIuMlrD5_2WKNETjmYiuGBcEojh-V28s/s320/Peru+1158+%5B320x200%5D.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5374853240267821234" border="0" /></a><br />Thurs. Nov 24. Wonderful chirping of birds awoke me at 5 a.m. after good night’s sleep. It is Thanksgiving in the US. Went by boat across river and 4K hike to Lake Sandoval. Canoed around lake and hiked back in the rain. Visited a viewing tower. Saw prehistoric looking birds called Hoytzin, and some red howler monkeys. We returned covered with mud and wet but it was a great hike. On a night walk, we were shown a female tarantula and a poisonous caterpillar.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhz-yor758hjdnq6mznrVWXlQ0Kx7S14mg61SW9KEcVC8H_ANoBcfQiSjcc1DykeAjp_s5Krb8e_dcllM-Kj-mTQ_NyjqCS017_91xjtaO4MVGDijHY1h-dT_yrva-uJg-qh65KdopIRC0/s1600-h/Peru+1147+%5B320x200%5D.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhz-yor758hjdnq6mznrVWXlQ0Kx7S14mg61SW9KEcVC8H_ANoBcfQiSjcc1DykeAjp_s5Krb8e_dcllM-Kj-mTQ_NyjqCS017_91xjtaO4MVGDijHY1h-dT_yrva-uJg-qh65KdopIRC0/s320/Peru+1147+%5B320x200%5D.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5374851102212247186" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhutp6ayrmiMvvR8N1nQYXbXqpdDk1OenhJ3P-HTJHBQo6IyrNEgIRuOwXd7VcAShlvOZ9HHBj8fUfqTLpBo2jCcfJbewpfNsD8zEJydBmrKRR6hHPL_KNmsJWDbo5Nqr2XWf7puXEmRWM/s1600-h/Peru+1134+%5B320x200%5D.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhutp6ayrmiMvvR8N1nQYXbXqpdDk1OenhJ3P-HTJHBQo6IyrNEgIRuOwXd7VcAShlvOZ9HHBj8fUfqTLpBo2jCcfJbewpfNsD8zEJydBmrKRR6hHPL_KNmsJWDbo5Nqr2XWf7puXEmRWM/s320/Peru+1134+%5B320x200%5D.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5374851089332335122" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkiDSHunzSnyQSO3o8-FFIdaLadGxrbhJERYwhNDc_ttkLM9WXuSYGdx-mrVxrJ-g_1s83OYa_Wsy78drn3u4mMMpXXmH3tunWgN398IVBY2aAgvD6yAC7RrioozgZ_Y0fuz7iETUhhLA/s1600-h/Peru+1124+%5B320x200%5D.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkiDSHunzSnyQSO3o8-FFIdaLadGxrbhJERYwhNDc_ttkLM9WXuSYGdx-mrVxrJ-g_1s83OYa_Wsy78drn3u4mMMpXXmH3tunWgN398IVBY2aAgvD6yAC7RrioozgZ_Y0fuz7iETUhhLA/s320/Peru+1124+%5B320x200%5D.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5374851077464503090" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTUDRtnbqPSJvvs0tkXAh4Z-z-YKGozBit0D3mH3JPlPcNHrYyeSeT3OMa7xNjQS1UULfQRhjRSZ4omghyKAvvehF1OcDWPCr_jgykGcMKEVvy86Jcf7zRm5PAFKs-hCv6ibpk-PmNCpo/s1600-h/Peru+537+%5B320x200%5D.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTUDRtnbqPSJvvs0tkXAh4Z-z-YKGozBit0D3mH3JPlPcNHrYyeSeT3OMa7xNjQS1UULfQRhjRSZ4omghyKAvvehF1OcDWPCr_jgykGcMKEVvy86Jcf7zRm5PAFKs-hCv6ibpk-PmNCpo/s320/Peru+537+%5B320x200%5D.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5374851059477695458" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitwkwOPhrLM2F9oiyxO2FOhbYiWb2Xl9XKlr29B71xL9yoCBBMzSGvxow66LhfYrepxW-_6zUT0mUCrLSfd8weUXJ67o7vVHdnao3IjVqoam_PtBqU30EZBSyNZrII4Dy0WC2MgkjLVmc/s1600-h/Peru+1121+%5B320x200%5D.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitwkwOPhrLM2F9oiyxO2FOhbYiWb2Xl9XKlr29B71xL9yoCBBMzSGvxow66LhfYrepxW-_6zUT0mUCrLSfd8weUXJ67o7vVHdnao3IjVqoam_PtBqU30EZBSyNZrII4Dy0WC2MgkjLVmc/s320/Peru+1121+%5B320x200%5D.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5374851069149280770" border="0" /></a><br />Fri. Nov 25. Today’s excursion was to a Research facility where we saw monkeys in the trees that had been at the reserve because they were sick or injured. They were now free to come and go and one came right up to one of the women and sat on her lap. It was raining and finally let up a little so we could see the animals in the cages that had been saved or were healing from injuries. There is a puma that was saved as an infant when the mother was killed. Unfortunately, it will never be placed in the wild as it is too used to humans. It ran and jumped on the fence where a guy was standing and would have jumped on his back if the fence weren’t there.<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4C1q0BOHes7dDalRFz7_pnJRucMhy4Btuze9stBCvF38iznnpUUnz_hhGw2S_ybC5ITofWy_oiJUbgfujzY9NVbMx1quukL1ITpnS9oFSc1_HTTBYCsqSUg88Bles-JcvtdOi9Zfu6Po/s1600-h/Peru+526+%5B320x200%5D.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4C1q0BOHes7dDalRFz7_pnJRucMhy4Btuze9stBCvF38iznnpUUnz_hhGw2S_ybC5ITofWy_oiJUbgfujzY9NVbMx1quukL1ITpnS9oFSc1_HTTBYCsqSUg88Bles-JcvtdOi9Zfu6Po/s320/Peru+526+%5B320x200%5D.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5374846673884814178" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRrwmYklmc54mWXpGaxmeHNiPrCaroRYV3Ba62B2MGMc4p2_RzwKe4euH9wzFXp6qC1cpVWSxWrFLwI1pl1XzACyuh2g6ZCcUk5FUVU_8ZNCbygNNfTdemooWYghgsnVgOCRSbO9QP5Ys/s1600-h/Peru+521+%5B320x200%5D.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRrwmYklmc54mWXpGaxmeHNiPrCaroRYV3Ba62B2MGMc4p2_RzwKe4euH9wzFXp6qC1cpVWSxWrFLwI1pl1XzACyuh2g6ZCcUk5FUVU_8ZNCbygNNfTdemooWYghgsnVgOCRSbO9QP5Ys/s320/Peru+521+%5B320x200%5D.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5374846664468855730" border="0" /></a><br /><br />We saw lots of birds and other animals in cages and a couple of toucans that landed in the trees close by; quite different from ones I had seen before. There were also some different butterflies and spiders. When the rain let up a little, we hiked to a canopy bridge that was up 200 feet and about 300 feet long. We struggled across and back-not for those that are bothered by height. It dipped in the middle and, with the rain and wind, was a difficult crossing. There was a great view from the observation tower on the other side. From there we went to a farm where they were experimenting growing different crops and animals and teaching the people in the jungle to farm so that they wouldn’t kill the wild animals. Back at the lodge, we went on an early evening boat ride to try to see the caimans. The water was high due to all the rains but we managed to see a few. Edwin, one of the guys working at the lodge, caught a caiman about 4 yrs old and brought it on the boat so we could all see one up close and personal.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggIIf2wmv22N_wQXnvj_thkv8fC66svF7ttvEyIrB3sAY6tq0e80OvyA7_cZdTVMIRecPmCh7mMYWRV2RcEv3vMcFI8MNJMlWXvbUx_UMawww6gMmkjP07-pRkUQNA4N70OTzc8UzV0rI/s1600-h/Peru+502+%5B320x200%5D.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggIIf2wmv22N_wQXnvj_thkv8fC66svF7ttvEyIrB3sAY6tq0e80OvyA7_cZdTVMIRecPmCh7mMYWRV2RcEv3vMcFI8MNJMlWXvbUx_UMawww6gMmkjP07-pRkUQNA4N70OTzc8UzV0rI/s320/Peru+502+%5B320x200%5D.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5374846657180348322" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZAJsuUjFiJzc46xVIEnRF2v7HIx_kO9iI7GRgENitOodt7jtabvvaM5aZnsqFr_1_CqCdZpMolxmp38-vpRNaZIWeC9KPxYKt3crDeYbhtdFWBec-8DTIa2aL5UZfACsYDk6mTrhMbpU/s1600-h/Peru+501+%5B320x200%5D.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZAJsuUjFiJzc46xVIEnRF2v7HIx_kO9iI7GRgENitOodt7jtabvvaM5aZnsqFr_1_CqCdZpMolxmp38-vpRNaZIWeC9KPxYKt3crDeYbhtdFWBec-8DTIa2aL5UZfACsYDk6mTrhMbpU/s320/Peru+501+%5B320x200%5D.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5374846642859169842" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuccAbIs8kF6S8t1cjeJd0NBadAkBe1psCyi2_DxZyD_Ob5E0F5c_nBFLmXpkKD-Ul3ICQmPCcQuaq67IhHGTh7Cbtr-GOibn-YteLuQKle1ixr2wFEOzgPAlPSwD-vNqz3ls7EaTbtqY/s1600-h/Peru+462+%5B320x200%5D.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuccAbIs8kF6S8t1cjeJd0NBadAkBe1psCyi2_DxZyD_Ob5E0F5c_nBFLmXpkKD-Ul3ICQmPCcQuaq67IhHGTh7Cbtr-GOibn-YteLuQKle1ixr2wFEOzgPAlPSwD-vNqz3ls7EaTbtqY/s320/Peru+462+%5B320x200%5D.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5374846632465001554" border="0" /></a><br />Edwin had come to my cabina on our first night there to install a new light bulb and we sat and talked for a while. He really wanted to learn English and when we left, I ended up giving him an old translator that I had. He was very grateful. He wanted me to work more with him but we didn’t have the time. Tom did work with another fellow who was very appreciative and gave Tom a bracelet made with jungle seeds. It really meant a lot to Tom and he enjoyed working with the guy. I don’t think he has taken the bracelet off; I wouldn’t either; those are really special moments shared with someone of a totally different culture.<br /><br />Tues, Nov 29. Lake Titicaca. We visited an old steamship, the YARAVI that was the first steamboat to navigate Lake Titicaca, the 138-mile-long highland lake that straddles the Peru-Bolivia border. The ship is under renovation to sail again on the lake. The steamer weighed 200 tons and was built in Scotland in 1862. That same year it was sailed from England to the southern Peruvian coast. There it was completely dismantled, and since the railroad to the lake was not completed, the pieces of the ship were portaged on mule back through some of the most rugged of all Andean country. At Puno, on the shore of the lake, it was reassembled by Indian laborers under the direction of a Scottish engineer who knew neither Spanish nor any of the Indian languages.<br /><br />Terry and I went to Sullustani, a very interesting burial sight of great towers the tallest of which is 12 meters. The towers are either round or square and house the remains of Colla nobility who were buried in family groups complete with food and belongings for their journey into the next world. On the way there, we saw unusual homes with arches and ceramic bulls above the doors. It is believed that these bulls guard their homes and keep them safe.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhU-XhSf18pxRCiIAlesi5HPCUQhcX_2vYlsEtU5io_jbwc6rmJMCuDrmX7zK1IFpwO0oy9Vg7OQryIcqzWnMfvpWpCiQ0kFhsHLLBl6yGOfQ8Ha0UKgRhmy3cN7jaVjtkToMu6CYBpYlU/s1600-h/Peru+925+%5B320x200%5D.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhU-XhSf18pxRCiIAlesi5HPCUQhcX_2vYlsEtU5io_jbwc6rmJMCuDrmX7zK1IFpwO0oy9Vg7OQryIcqzWnMfvpWpCiQ0kFhsHLLBl6yGOfQ8Ha0UKgRhmy3cN7jaVjtkToMu6CYBpYlU/s320/Peru+925+%5B320x200%5D.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5374839481674954882" border="0" /></a><br />Wed, Nov 30. We did the Lake Titicaca tour in the morning visiting the floating islands and a school on one of the islands. These people lead a totally different life on these islands located on the highest navigable lake in the world. Here is an interesting tidbit I read in the traveler’s bible, the Lonely Planet book of Peru. “How Indians Adapt to Altitude”. At an attitude of 10,000, feet most people begin to suffer from lack of oxygen. The Andean Indian, who lives at altitudes up to 17,000 feet, has developed certain physical characteristics to get the most use of what oxygen exists at those heights. His lungs are bigger than normal, so that he inhales more air with each breath. In the walls of every person’s lungs, there are tiny sacs in which oxygen is transferred from the air to the blood. In the Indian’s lungs these sacs are permanently dilated to provide maximum surface for the oxygen transfer. The circulatory system is also modified, the Indian has about two quarts more blood than do lowlanders, and the red blood corpuscles, which carry the oxygen, are considerably bigger. Finally the heart itself, which pumps blood and oxygen throughout the body, is larger than normal by almost 20 per cent.”<br /><br />Thurs, Dec 1. Arequipa. This is a beautiful colonial city with lots of museums, beautiful buildings, and good food.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCEEtiZGAWetFFq2UYdOMtKqyC5_YGT4d-1LfgatRZXSl5YC8FEpd-8SzpDDxb0nm2B8J3Gg-Z1lgB9Ht8RvPrq1MxVhXt2VtQlAzmeg2zFzgMimMCAkXWH74HNvGVN43KlgIzr27iPxQ/s1600-h/Peru+134+%5B320x200%5D.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCEEtiZGAWetFFq2UYdOMtKqyC5_YGT4d-1LfgatRZXSl5YC8FEpd-8SzpDDxb0nm2B8J3Gg-Z1lgB9Ht8RvPrq1MxVhXt2VtQlAzmeg2zFzgMimMCAkXWH74HNvGVN43KlgIzr27iPxQ/s320/Peru+134+%5B320x200%5D.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5374839507443568498" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZexRq173l_hP14b9kp8lW5nPs6RgSnE_KDT9ceQOwWFxY_PfFD6AWuP36Qu15SpQ9w7jogdj9B0DV6kTKOqpgai968s0ZzG_z9sUwEPCjXdMnoNynbUE_1Y1FCXLuPcB_4NVn_RTi7XU/s1600-h/Peru+081+%5B320x200%5D.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZexRq173l_hP14b9kp8lW5nPs6RgSnE_KDT9ceQOwWFxY_PfFD6AWuP36Qu15SpQ9w7jogdj9B0DV6kTKOqpgai968s0ZzG_z9sUwEPCjXdMnoNynbUE_1Y1FCXLuPcB_4NVn_RTi7XU/s320/Peru+081+%5B320x200%5D.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5374839498745629266" border="0" /></a><br />Fri, Dec 2. Left Arequipa with our guide for Chivay and the Colca Canyon. I took some drug N & H got in the morning for altitude sickness, that horrible headache that plagued most of us. Because we were going to 5052 meters (16,600 feet), our guide suggested we chew on coca leaves. I chewed the leaves and after 64 years of no drugs, immediately got high. This feeling lasted a couple of hours and was very scary. When my head finally cleared, I was able to enjoy the great scenery. We saw lots of vicunas and were told their wool sells for $1,000 per kilo! They can run at a speed of 40 kph. We stopped at a small town for coca tea where a medical team from the US arrived about the same time and started treating people that were lined up. We got to the pass at about noon and then started down to the Colca Canyon. People had made “Apacheta”, a Quechua word, at the top. It consists of a pile of rocks at least 3 rocks high (and lots higher), which symbolizes a connection to the sun. That evening pan flutes and folklorical dancers entertained us at the restaurant where we had dinner.<br /><br />Sat, Dec 3. Up early to go to the place where the Condors hang out.<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-gNZtu7ttVX3gNHotBk6TZOqtS2s5yxxju4NZTsh2LbL8BXHDRO5ePMqAQr_mCsHueceBHOAi0ERqFliCeNQKLEMw2V-2kBGvy_msqFUMQdkGWgj8xlfWtoi8zQR0MCDxKeXWq2tUtWA/s1600-h/Peru+238+%5B320x200%5D.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-gNZtu7ttVX3gNHotBk6TZOqtS2s5yxxju4NZTsh2LbL8BXHDRO5ePMqAQr_mCsHueceBHOAi0ERqFliCeNQKLEMw2V-2kBGvy_msqFUMQdkGWgj8xlfWtoi8zQR0MCDxKeXWq2tUtWA/s320/Peru+238+%5B320x200%5D.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5374839521120200482" border="0" /></a> <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRcAHALfGwSnqb4AjkE3EpsBkvNqmdv0brsfk71BkvS9h2T0ZCQuVabHbcjcU5N-DR1DKKhET5Nt-UsEvzI-Hm269ZznH0BmWj7PYhPPv3_gY8JkMT0ItWszMnRBq-kxVFgBVctqtHt6o/s1600-h/DSC00106+%5B320x200%5D.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRcAHALfGwSnqb4AjkE3EpsBkvNqmdv0brsfk71BkvS9h2T0ZCQuVabHbcjcU5N-DR1DKKhET5Nt-UsEvzI-Hm269ZznH0BmWj7PYhPPv3_gY8JkMT0ItWszMnRBq-kxVFgBVctqtHt6o/s320/DSC00106+%5B320x200%5D.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5374839493418031954" border="0" /></a><br />They can live up to 75 years and have a 9-foot wingspan. They eat animals that have been dead about 10 days. We saw 2 flying at a distance and a young one closer to us. The beautiful view of river 1200 meters below and mountains at 3200 meters high was spectacular. We saw a boulder with Pre-Columbian carvings and a map of terraces. Back in Arequipa, we had dinner that night at a roof top restaurant. Ponchos were provided as well as pan flutes. Brides and grooms walked the Plaza de Armas below us. It is a tradition that they walk the different plazas for two hours between their wedding and reception.<br /><br />Sun, Dec 4. Terry and I went river rafting and really enjoyed the mostly class 3 but some class 4 rapids with giant mountains all around. Great fun! We took the 10 p.m. bus to Nasca where we flew over the mysterious Nasca lines which are huge geometric designs drawn in the desert and visible only from the air. They were made by the simple expedient of removing the darker sun-baked stones from the surface of the desert and piling them up on either side of the lines, thus exposing the lighter colored soil below. Some designs are animals and figures as well as lines. We also toured the aqueducts made by early indigenous peoples so that they could have water in this desert country.<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdQgh8m20ErmCSOHlDV2br7iqOFiXn2UPKyzZRrcZCVG6aqMHB_lEYBWl37QL5eG_FbrX6XNvHA7KRw36LD4ctBE9hEI_ZBC9fw4aXhFJXWoUwpTP8lT1uhZNi_Gu6ZEOfEiwfLa4vq8A/s1600-h/Peru+674+%5B320x200%5D.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdQgh8m20ErmCSOHlDV2br7iqOFiXn2UPKyzZRrcZCVG6aqMHB_lEYBWl37QL5eG_FbrX6XNvHA7KRw36LD4ctBE9hEI_ZBC9fw4aXhFJXWoUwpTP8lT1uhZNi_Gu6ZEOfEiwfLa4vq8A/s320/Peru+674+%5B320x200%5D.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5374766860558744066" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><div style="text-align: left;">Mon, Dec 5. Terry, Gerry and I bused to the desert town of Paracas, which is on the coast and took a tour of National Reserve, which was along the sand dunes and beaches. We explored a large cave and saw boobies with babies, and red-footed cormorants. The SEA TERNS decided to head back to Bahia and Tom and Eileen wanted to go to Camana located further south on the coast.<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaMB-dKsi7OWVYysinKyCm1s8jn7hst7gJdp8JE3-epQO0gP_NvHRZVEZAX8Rlw49qguuUQlyyS6EDGjqicr6ATeoLPmU9gv9sedN_LDc5EongmEhDCZU5BsWnB9C6rYBcaXA15AdNyA8/s1600-h/Peru+693+%5B320x200%5D.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaMB-dKsi7OWVYysinKyCm1s8jn7hst7gJdp8JE3-epQO0gP_NvHRZVEZAX8Rlw49qguuUQlyyS6EDGjqicr6ATeoLPmU9gv9sedN_LDc5EongmEhDCZU5BsWnB9C6rYBcaXA15AdNyA8/s320/Peru+693+%5B320x200%5D.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5374766873537459362" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBn0Uq_vXkpLpsn5FgsJlDQi2NdVBwXEnw0Tej3VcMA29BXfj1LMBS1io0I7Wgy3P6eEMK85g8_a8m38H8plFATXTLpcuEoC7xmBcBnoLgDLIIrw7t2IVJsB2tThXB-I6V8GAje4gChVA/s1600-h/DSC00191+%5B320x200%5D.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBn0Uq_vXkpLpsn5FgsJlDQi2NdVBwXEnw0Tej3VcMA29BXfj1LMBS1io0I7Wgy3P6eEMK85g8_a8m38H8plFATXTLpcuEoC7xmBcBnoLgDLIIrw7t2IVJsB2tThXB-I6V8GAje4gChVA/s320/DSC00191+%5B320x200%5D.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5374766847519889138" border="0" /></a></div><br />Tues, Dec 6. Took the tour to Isla Batista where we saw lots of birds and sea lions and on the way to Peru’s “Galapagos” we were able to see the candelabra which is a giant figure etched into the coastal hills rather like the figures of the Nazca Lines. No one knows who made the ancient drawing or what it signifies. The amazing thing is how is stays there.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDbeRTln4P-Jl3FnBm2hOZQFgAIDXq7dJNU5JUtLWcH-vijOB4tn8XPBGtlQiZYYgwKprvaF8Sz-X3_7wavbrP3LFyggF3VeDp4KAp8P1qe_k0a6PUtmxFNj751a-cE9FXWuQR7TzUZEE/s1600-h/Peru+667+%5B320x200%5D.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDbeRTln4P-Jl3FnBm2hOZQFgAIDXq7dJNU5JUtLWcH-vijOB4tn8XPBGtlQiZYYgwKprvaF8Sz-X3_7wavbrP3LFyggF3VeDp4KAp8P1qe_k0a6PUtmxFNj751a-cE9FXWuQR7TzUZEE/s320/Peru+667+%5B320x200%5D.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5374766854511595250" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivWtH8_rCd2SSgiyV8kQgb9Uex28Od2hGAvb231PpBUgWUeP9Aoc7j4isZ3QiU2z4gLur2zJxK0eeFxox6E864KUIssf9xf0RPBeIqJKV4WI74PVMhTjNIKcyj3rKSRpojrpGIGs5lt-8/s1600-h/DSC00178+%5B320x200%5D.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivWtH8_rCd2SSgiyV8kQgb9Uex28Od2hGAvb231PpBUgWUeP9Aoc7j4isZ3QiU2z4gLur2zJxK0eeFxox6E864KUIssf9xf0RPBeIqJKV4WI74PVMhTjNIKcyj3rKSRpojrpGIGs5lt-8/s320/DSC00178+%5B320x200%5D.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5374766837092180306" border="0" /></a><br />All to soon, it was time to head to back to Lima where the group flew back to the U.S. I returned by bus (a mere 36 hour bus ride) to Bahia de Caraquez where John was waiting on HAWKEYE.<br /><br />Some cruising friends, Ray and Bernie, had left Bahia and were touring Peru at the same time we were. We met them in the hotel in Puno. From there, they bused up to Cuzco. They chose the night bus not the tour bus that we had taken from Cuzco to Puno. About 1 a.m., the bus stopped to pick up a passenger and the guy that handles the luggage got off to put the man’s luggage under the bus. He was held a gunpoint and others joined him from the brush. They got the driver off the bus and then drove the bus to a deserted area and took all passengers off the bus by gunpoint and robbed them. Ray had the presence to hide most of his money and their passports in the cushions and overhead on the bus before they were made to get off. The robbers got their wedding rings and about $40 in cash. Ray kept telling them that his wife, Bernie, didn’t speak any Spanish so they left her alone other than taking her ring. They were very lucky and were still very shaken up when telling their story upon return. They were the only foreigners on the bus and the Peruvian people on the bus were very sorry this happened to Bernie and Ray. They were told that they must have had a far greater loss than the Peruvians as Peruvians don’t have much to lose anyway!<br /><br />Sorry to have rattled on and hope I didn’t bore you too much. I know that these emails get long, so if you don’t find them of interest, please let us know, (it won’t hurt our feelings.) and we will delete you from our mailings. Linda<br />[JSK1] Buacama<br /><br /><input id="gwProxy" type="hidden"><!--Session data--><input onclick="jsCall();" id="jsProxy" type="hidden"><div id="refHTML"></div><input id="gwProxy" type="hidden"><!--Session data--><input onclick="jsCall();" id="jsProxy" type="hidden"><div id="refHTML"></div><input id="gwProxy" type="hidden"><!--Session data--><input onclick="jsCall();" id="jsProxy" type="hidden"><div id="refHTML"></div><input id="gwProxy" type="hidden"><!--Session data--><input onclick="jsCall();" id="jsProxy" type="hidden"><div id="refHTML"></div><input id="gwProxy" type="hidden"><!--Session data--><input onclick="jsCall();" id="jsProxy" type="hidden"><div id="refHTML"></div>About John and Lindahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09804781596879702975noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-919823168408227838.post-29229781850971686442004-12-31T02:19:00.000+12:002009-09-11T12:10:48.392+12:00HAWKEYE HAPPENINGS, December, 2004HAWKEYE HAPPENINGS-December 31, 2004<br />Bahia de Caraquez, Ecuador<br /><br />After returning from a 2-month trip to the states, John was busy working on boat projects so Linda, and Teri from the sailboat ISHI, decided to explore Ecuador south of Guayaquil. The ladies were determined to keep within a budget of $25 per day and were able to do so without difficulty. Travel was by bus, which is very inexpensive in Ecuador. Some of the highlights of their trip are as follows:<br />SALINAS, a small village at 11,600 feet: - The walking tour started off at the cheese co-op where many kinds of cheese were made from milk brought in by large milk cans on the backs of donkeys. A man from Switzerland visited this little village in the 70’s and felt he could help the people with Swiss techniques and machinery and did so. At the chocolate co-op, we sampled some of the white chocolate and macadamia nut candy being made there. The macadamia nuts are grown here in Ecuador, as are the cacao beans for the chocolate. <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4ZC14jaGBN4T8Zavcj24biTj6lBOgl2nxsqHSmHQ2N6155JcBbKx3Y3A-_oxFa2GtvOZSDXujTyWI2UfGWHx_gFZt3xeOOD2hPjoUY2mtEOWi6SJAVaj2UupK-pEMZvq0sN2y1PjszlE/s1600-h/Volcano+San+Cristabol+3+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4ZC14jaGBN4T8Zavcj24biTj6lBOgl2nxsqHSmHQ2N6155JcBbKx3Y3A-_oxFa2GtvOZSDXujTyWI2UfGWHx_gFZt3xeOOD2hPjoUY2mtEOWi6SJAVaj2UupK-pEMZvq0sN2y1PjszlE/s320/Volcano+San+Cristabol+3+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5356243676673805250" border="0" /></a><br />The next stop was the soccer ball factory. The “jefe” was a woman who owns this private company, which is not part of the co-op system. Here we saw a young woman winding and winding six cones of thread on to an inflated rubber ball. Many piles of colored hexagonal leather patches were on the other side of the room, a pot of glue was brewing over a fire, and some balls in iron forms were cooking in the oven. They were proud of the fact that all the makings for the balls come from Ecuador. We were shown a box of the finished product, soccer balls marked “made in Salinas”, which they hope make it to the next Olympics.<br />Next, we walked up the hill to the wool factory, stopping along the way to take pictures of a saddled llama parked out in front of someone’s home. We toured two big buildings full of interesting big whirling machinery, where they wash and spin tons of wool yarn from sheep and alpaca, dye and package it. Next door was the hongo co-op; here, they dry mushrooms picked from under the pine trees in the rainy season and package them for export.<br />RIOBAMBA: - Train-ride down the Devil’s Nose. First we had to check in our luggage and then find a spot on TOP of the train. Views were spectacular, through beautiful green country, past fields and forests, rivers and streams, and towns where the kids would chase after the train hoping for treats to be thrown down (our contribution was colored pens). We thought the train ride would be scary since the roof is somewhat rounded and the guard rail they have installed to accommodate people riding on top is only two bars, 10 inches high. By far the scariest part, though, is climbing up on to the roof by the narrow, overhanging rung ladder on the side of the train. The train ride is several hours long, following several switchbacks down to the bottom of the Devil’s Nose.<br />INGAPIRCA Ruins, 10,000 feet: - As we started to walk to the ruins Raphael, a handsome Ecuadorian man, approached us saying, in English, that he was our assigned guide. For an extra fee, he would walk with us about the ruins; but a talk on the mound was free. We opted for “free”. He talked with us for 1½ hour. He told us of the Cañari civilization of the early 1400’s (before the Incas), who started this city. They were a peaceful civilization, farmers and sun worshipers, having erected the sun temple still standing today. The Cañaris built the rounded base, of precise square stonework in greenish square foot blocks. The conquering Incas, who reigned for only 30 years before being replaced by the Spanish in the early 1500’s, rebuilt the top half of the temple.<br />The dress of the indigenous people that we see today (heavy colorful skirts of velvet with embroidery around the bottom, capes of wool and felt hats), which we think of as “Indian”, is really the dress adopted by the Indians from the Spanish. Each region has its unique pin or button for fastening the cape. We sidetracked Raphael at one point, asking him about the nice American style houses we could see scattered on the hills. We found out that many of these families find a way to send a son or a husband to the US to work and send back money. Many use “Coyotes”, often disreputable characters who promise to smuggle poor Latinos into the U.S. for a large fee. There is a large community of Ecuadorians for example in Queens, New York. Raphael had been in New York for five years, hence his good English. But he didn’t have to use a Coyote as comes from a wealthy family.<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2wrdn90PXlBz0wp3lar3I5vfoI_0vSNVzdjCJpxn7PeWsnyiAtyyLMjOoE5dAzBbGtin1xbUTfb1PRv5AxN74t8xDRu-gWK8PDgh_phcqxcjPDvNKHUisdN7YF9JHOVknEnxxq1z8HvE/s1600-h/Mom+and+Pup+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2wrdn90PXlBz0wp3lar3I5vfoI_0vSNVzdjCJpxn7PeWsnyiAtyyLMjOoE5dAzBbGtin1xbUTfb1PRv5AxN74t8xDRu-gWK8PDgh_phcqxcjPDvNKHUisdN7YF9JHOVknEnxxq1z8HvE/s320/Mom+and+Pup+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5356243659523469762" border="0" /></a><br />After hearing of the ancient civilizations, we also got a glimpse into the modern civilization of this land. Raphael told us he has a 21-day-old son, by the daughter of a servant of his family, 20 years his junior. He has moved out of the family house and set up a house for his new family. He has taken the baby to be seen by his mother and sister, and they approve because the baby has light skin, but he can’t show the baby to his father or he would be disinherited. Raphael informed us that he will never marry the girl; he is going to find his proper wife someday, but he will continue to support the girl and his baby. Some times, it is hard not to be critical of the different cultures of other countries…<br />PRINCIPAL, 10,500 feet: At the end of the road, at the top of the river valley, we arrived in the very small town of Principal. Guido, our guide, is a Quechua Indian. Spanish is not his native language, so we had a hard time understanding him (Quechua was the official language of the Inca Empire, which ruled much of the Andes region from the mid-1400s until the arrival of Spanish conquistadors in 1532. … From Encarta)<br />Continuing through the village, we saw some ladies making Panama hats (yes, Panama hats are made in Ecuador!). Not a lot of Tonka Toys around here – one kid was rolling a big hoop with a stick and several kids were running with plastic bags tied to cassette tape.<br />They had trouble gathering enough horses from around the village for our tour, and it turned out to be a bad idea. The horses were workhorses, not used to being ridden and they weren’t used to each other. Whenever they got to close together they started kicking, making for a wild ride. And the saddles were interesting, made of wood (actually not as uncomfortable as they looked), the stirrups of metal, hung on ropes, and the bridles were rope, with no bit in the mouth.<br />Linda’s steed was especially unruly, spooked and bucked several times at inopportune moments like on a narrow steep trail. At one point, Linda finally had to get off and walk. Susie and daughter Kate rode together on one horse and that was fine until the horse took off running across a meadow and the two of them slid off, fortunately onto soft turf. Kate, at 7, was a real trouper about getting right back on. <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiz7353WvTE1q2LV8sFge6MJkn1PYvN7-O_ZYi44WV27VS3LpN1Rewov8AUCxM2qIK-v6HwLzTrV35NOzbrNkIK5ji4b42rxJz556HGsXCBB20CrWb6uEi5-m_ZlkvCHajmTTsyy5wDm08/s1600-h/Sea+lion+2+%5B320x200%5D.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiz7353WvTE1q2LV8sFge6MJkn1PYvN7-O_ZYi44WV27VS3LpN1Rewov8AUCxM2qIK-v6HwLzTrV35NOzbrNkIK5ji4b42rxJz556HGsXCBB20CrWb6uEi5-m_ZlkvCHajmTTsyy5wDm08/s320/Sea+lion+2+%5B320x200%5D.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5356243668757523474" border="0" /></a><br />In spite of the rough ride, it was a great day of incredible views of mountains, valleys, rivers and vegetation. Guido was always stopping to point out some plant that was used for herbs, medicine or food; picking us wild strawberries and other fruits to eat and leaves to taste. Mid-day we came to Las Dos Encuentras, the merging of two rivers where we parked the horses and climbed to a meadow of grass and wildflowers overlooking the river valley. The view behind was of the top of a dormant volcano, one side of the top caved in. And just when you thought you were a million miles from civilization, you see a woman in a bright red skirt with a purple cape and felt hat leading a couple of cows across the next hill.<br />After hiking back to the horses, we continued over hill and dale, much of the time on a narrow, rocky, slippery, muddy and precipitous trail. The trail was so narrow at times that our feet were knocked out of the stirrups and sometimes, the trail was so deep you couldn’t see over the top. We were glad for the rubber boots we rented for 60 cents. Many times the horses slid and tripped on the wet rocks. This ancient trail was the path the Cañari people used before the Incas arrived. We each paid $8.50 for the horse, and $2.50 for the guides for the day. An unforgettable experience! (For the unabridged version, email Linda and she will send it to you.)<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhyGnHYn0E1y42yGZsANNKsWnzxk2QOThODMjBd1p1Li8UPWIszO2lqrOF4xcBifmhFEmOZMjoaWXqjuSBqyZaMy0o0wpMFCOvps1NHLLvjKObY7qJGqFHHIvEfLOiGthBKev-4rfsydI/s1600-h/Marine+Iguana+Santa+Cruz+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhyGnHYn0E1y42yGZsANNKsWnzxk2QOThODMjBd1p1Li8UPWIszO2lqrOF4xcBifmhFEmOZMjoaWXqjuSBqyZaMy0o0wpMFCOvps1NHLLvjKObY7qJGqFHHIvEfLOiGthBKev-4rfsydI/s320/Marine+Iguana+Santa+Cruz+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5356243488810934610" border="0" /></a><br />Upon returning to Bahia, John mentioned to Linda that Joe on MUSIC, a single-handed sailor, was leaving for the Galapagos Islands in a few days and what did she think about them crewing for Joe? SURE!! So, 3 days later on the 7 a.m. high tide, we were heading out from Bahia towards the Galapagos Islands, some 600 miles off shore. It was good sailing close to the rhumb line until mid afternoon when the wind piped up to 25 knots apparent with 5-6 foot seas making it a bit uncomfortable and hard to sleep that night. Watches were easy with 4 hrs on and 8 hrs off and there was plenty of entertainment by pilot whales swimming close to the boat. The water temperature dropped the further from shore we got as the Humboldt Current kicked in. This stream of cold water sweeps up the Chilean and Peruvian coasts from Antarctica and the night watches were much cooler as a result. Not at all tropical! MUSIC is a very comfortable Beneteau 40CC and sails pretty well.<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtlj69yRF1Gx7uqsR8XV6IurWDn7R3F4bhw3kkURZfh9hWeWSb8ng7cbarOThtCq1dvASe9FFxuH4ByG2bDRZYY_8yoGtZwUmY92RFaAVHON4Hj9R-gmrFirfSHsBGJE72xZ3Dk1m2kU0/s1600-h/Sally+Lightfoot+crabs+1+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtlj69yRF1Gx7uqsR8XV6IurWDn7R3F4bhw3kkURZfh9hWeWSb8ng7cbarOThtCq1dvASe9FFxuH4ByG2bDRZYY_8yoGtZwUmY92RFaAVHON4Hj9R-gmrFirfSHsBGJE72xZ3Dk1m2kU0/s320/Sally+Lightfoot+crabs+1+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5356243660495453826" border="0" /></a><br />Six days and one large Dorado (or Mahi-Mahi, a great eating fish) later, we arrived at Isla San Cristóbal, Galapagos. It was early morning and, after anchoring in Wreck Bay, we checked in with the Port Captain and our agent, who had our permit for visiting 5 islands ready. We spent a few days on Isla San Cristóbal visiting the Galapagos Tortoise reserve, a beach where we had our first sighting of Marine Iguanas, a visitors center explaining some of the history of the Galapagos and a ancient volcano crater that contains a lake which is the only fresh water in the Galapagos. There were lots of Sea Lions in the anchorage and on the beach. They don’t seem to mind people being within a few feet of them even if they have pups. The bulls are not as fond of people, however, and stay at a distance. <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQx9bAQYi0MK_KKOw6LLSlfA4qOm20JTgIWIJzfPlOVJbdi6YiUBr5WIK69yIHB-K5ukKEfuggd167Vxp1aOV51diGbJemm7bcTPDkPL5B1EoSVbn9zZPxrK6eO3e0mnqVHl7tlNFtWtY/s1600-h/Galapagos+land+Iguana+2+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQx9bAQYi0MK_KKOw6LLSlfA4qOm20JTgIWIJzfPlOVJbdi6YiUBr5WIK69yIHB-K5ukKEfuggd167Vxp1aOV51diGbJemm7bcTPDkPL5B1EoSVbn9zZPxrK6eO3e0mnqVHl7tlNFtWtY/s320/Galapagos+land+Iguana+2+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5356243273260214146" border="0" /></a><br />A bit of history now! The Galapagos were discovered accidentally in 1535, when the then Bishop of Panama, Tomás de Belanga drifted off course (over 500 miles!) After many decades as a haven for pirates, followed by whaling ships, the islands were claimed by Ecuador in 1832 and were made a national park in 1957, when the last of the penal colonies were closed.<br />We next sailed to Isla Santa Cruz, which is a day’s sail away. After checking in with the Port Captain, we were free to roam Puerto Ayora, a very crowded harbor where the tour boats pick up their people. This bustling town with its’ tourist shops wasn’t what we had in mind at all, but we wanted to visit the Darwin Center. This was indeed well worth the stay in that bay, which has no protection from the southerly swell. We were able to spot a few of the different kinds of Darwin finches and lots of Galapagos tortoises as well as Iguanas both land and marine. The tour of the lava tube, which has a diameter of about 50 feet, for about ½ mile was fascinating and we could only slightly <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieIYPbwDF7m8pP9sxvRm6r4wfqToTSnVjMFmDmS7P0cCsE_Rn0HU6_m2BpG631Oc4akEljh_6a9US1pZq7kCxsngAC6XqCMB1kn2J48ezbfpT43xlzlgSIRXjwZ-_3New2OTWHzxHwoXA/s1600-h/Flamingos+2+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieIYPbwDF7m8pP9sxvRm6r4wfqToTSnVjMFmDmS7P0cCsE_Rn0HU6_m2BpG631Oc4akEljh_6a9US1pZq7kCxsngAC6XqCMB1kn2J48ezbfpT43xlzlgSIRXjwZ-_3New2OTWHzxHwoXA/s320/Flamingos+2+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5356243268032023170" border="0" /></a>fathom what it must have been like when lava actually flowed through it. Hiking many miles on the island, we saw wonderful white sand beaches where it is easy to spot the dark Marine Iguanas as compared to their normal habitat on the black lava rocks. A large lagoon was a popular place to snorkel or just wade. It is a popular hangout for a number of white tipped reef sharks.<br />The sail to Isla Isabela was a long day of about 70 miles. Just before entering the harbor, Puerto Villamil, we hooked a nice yellow-fin tuna, which fed us several meals. We can’t say enough about this most incredible place! The anchorage is beautiful, with few boats anchored in its’ very protected bay (it was the off season and we have been told that in high season, there may be as many as 50 boats anchored here-can’t imagine how they all fit in!). The sea and animal life was incredible. The blue-footed boobies were in profusion. Sea lions were unwelcome visitors on the boat (John got up one night when it started to rain to get his shoes and there was a sea lion asleep in the cockpit! We aren’t sure who was more surprised, the sea lion or John!). Penguins swam around the boat frequently and make a cry back and forth to each other. The penguins in the Galapagos are about 18 inches tall and it was a surprise to find them so close to the Equator! Their presence is the result of the Humboldt Current; at the time we were there, their feathers were molting (yes feathers, not fur). The iguanas were also shedding their leathery skins. <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoXueYuuWK9st2GJ3mLUL8v_ZHuHIhU_c0cH6Y3V773LlZEu5EgO5pflMcdLzaj5y7kROr3oqqsoA_KZKpESTCJ0FM7wW1shg8P_u3Nn5AujBk4fTy-F7LB5FvdQnPWi0_w_VB11pucos/s1600-h/Union+Rock+3+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoXueYuuWK9st2GJ3mLUL8v_ZHuHIhU_c0cH6Y3V773LlZEu5EgO5pflMcdLzaj5y7kROr3oqqsoA_KZKpESTCJ0FM7wW1shg8P_u3Nn5AujBk4fTy-F7LB5FvdQnPWi0_w_VB11pucos/s320/Union+Rock+3+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5356243672922995698" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Several times we took an incredible hike around the black lava reef that protects the bay; it was like being on the moon! The lava is very rough, similar to the a’a lava found in Hawaii, but the Park Service has made a nice trail through the lava and this makes it easy. There are marine iguanas all over. In several areas it looked like the lava was moving, but it turned out to be a large group of iguanas! A little further down the trail is a fissure in the lava. It is open on two sides and within that fissure; there are usually about 15 white-tipped reef sharks. The trail is just feet above them and you can look down and observe them (There was a sign posted suggesting no swimming). Further on along the trail, was a sea lion pup and it looked like the babysitter was a marine iguana as they were resting close to each other. Don’t know where the pup’s mom was. In another cove, there was a sea lion colony with the “head honcho” protecting his harem. On one occasion, another bull tried to enter his cove and was very loudly and aggressively told to leave. Another time, Linda and Wynona, another cruiser lady, were snorkeling in the bay with a “teen aged” sea lion having a great time when the bull came over and rushed them. It is very hard to run in water with fins on! Poor Wynona almost had a heart attack as she was closest to the bull and couldn’t move fast enough. But, he backed off when he saw that they were trying to get out of his territory.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCbtwDdlrAdDPFzFx9_ZQgwyhryKZMuyxWSfoxIXNIy5273v-mrwClmFbSk_ZgdNioqLoZ1ADXq2ZRWWDJVoJwqZz8rplonLOjwmWOCxicbEwBRdZMYlMassVMtR2DdrzhE1vxCYeYBSI/s1600-h/Marine+Iguana+7+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCbtwDdlrAdDPFzFx9_ZQgwyhryKZMuyxWSfoxIXNIy5273v-mrwClmFbSk_ZgdNioqLoZ1ADXq2ZRWWDJVoJwqZz8rplonLOjwmWOCxicbEwBRdZMYlMassVMtR2DdrzhE1vxCYeYBSI/s320/Marine+Iguana+7+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5356243485601423506" border="0" /></a><br />The blue-footed boobies are fun to watch. They collect in a great flock of about two hundred, and start circling. Through some signal we couldn’t detect, they will all dive into the water at the same time. They dive bomb, splash, pop-up and take off flying to start the process again. We assume they all got at least one fish on each dive, as they look well fed.<br /><br />Another hike we took went through town and along the beach to a trail through the lava flow to a turtle hatchery. There were several different types of Galapagos Tortoise in pens where they were being fed something that looked like large leeks. They really seemed to like it and we spent quite a while looking at the different types. Two large males got into a little disagreement and one snapped at the other clamping down on the leathery skin of his leg. We also noticed at other Tortoise reserves that they hiss when you get to close to them and pull back into their shell. Some of these strange creatures live to be 170 years old, and weigh up to 600 pounds. The amazing thing is that there are any tortoises left on the islands after the depredations of pirates and whaling ships in previous centuries. Darwin reported that one ship left with 700 live tortoises in its h<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGzNt3oyAJN6ysRO-c0XKcQHt44GR8-25Shnb4X7aTtV2B-kyTHzJK86FRlT3GaOGi5axQ_V-Sr7T3NT0elQCCzU2atKmaODV1d3VRG2Q6ekTV2hj8GzDUnJTB7JtwUwarulAyT1kXXgw/s1600-h/Galapagos+penguin+1+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGzNt3oyAJN6ysRO-c0XKcQHt44GR8-25Shnb4X7aTtV2B-kyTHzJK86FRlT3GaOGi5axQ_V-Sr7T3NT0elQCCzU2atKmaODV1d3VRG2Q6ekTV2hj8GzDUnJTB7JtwUwarulAyT1kXXgw/s320/Galapagos+penguin+1+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5356243471550376994" border="0" /></a>old (they live for a year without food – the tortoises, that is) and another ship captured 200 in one day! The efforts of the Darwin Center, and other tortoise reserves, to restore the tortoise population are commendable. We were told that the incubation temperature of the eggs determines the gender of the tortoise. Above 30 degrees centigrade, the hatchlings will be female, which greatly assists the re-population efforts.<br />One day we took a tour by truck, horseback and hiking up to a volcano. Along the way, we were able to feel the different climate changes and see the difference from the dry vegetation and cactus at sea level to the lush, green vegetation of the rain forest in the mountains. Walking on the volcano was very interesting and in some places quite difficult because of the loose lava. We saw “hot spots” where steam was vented and it felt like putting <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZv76yrdb24Xe8uupOeVtR687I_0hWTasLReMznE6lOqUGuT93CmgIik6OwQwvfC9pmv7s1qFR4bVJHp4zqRmY6d8sdRw8lrhyphenhyphenc0OxIvfAdewlMhzaEV5JIEYePJaS88R6xfWhda4SX3g/s1600-h/Galapagos+Tortise+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZv76yrdb24Xe8uupOeVtR687I_0hWTasLReMznE6lOqUGuT93CmgIik6OwQwvfC9pmv7s1qFR4bVJHp4zqRmY6d8sdRw8lrhyphenhyphenc0OxIvfAdewlMhzaEV5JIEYePJaS88R6xfWhda4SX3g/s320/Galapagos+Tortise+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5356243484493753298" border="0" /></a>your hand in an oven. There were several lava tubes and even a lava fall (looked like a waterfall turned to stone). Our guide told us the red color was ancient lava flow and the black new lava. This volcano last erupted in 2001. There were sinkholes with lush green plants at the bottom. The lava left wonderful formations some looking like chocolate chips in chocolate syrup and others looked like pulled taffy. Depending on the minerals, the colors varied from yellow, orange, blue and green, to gray, maroon, and black. Our guide explained some of the different plants and birds. The vermillion flycatcher was a showstopper with his brilliant red body and black wings.<br />Another day we rented kayaks and paddled out past the reef with a guide. We were rewarded with a close up of 2 sea turtles mating (this takes about 3 hours!) and two marine iguanas squaring off, butting their heads together with their spines and cheeks flared to look bigger, clawing and hissing and trying to bite each other. Winner gets the females.<br />Our guide talked us into another trip that took about 1 hour by fast-running panga down the <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiVQp8YDDvK6bAQF_MbIQ04DKdyj33BI6jNOPV6xSQALCfxy_i8pGyWkoAKQbEuxxoje4ytOeuNCJs84Hk3GPEyJ2hUfVhz3KiHGWgqxeRtp8iWgARiqxMNE6GX9v7_gQxd8Z7XWexzco/s1600-h/Fissure+with+fresh+water+Santa+Cruz+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiVQp8YDDvK6bAQF_MbIQ04DKdyj33BI6jNOPV6xSQALCfxy_i8pGyWkoAKQbEuxxoje4ytOeuNCJs84Hk3GPEyJ2hUfVhz3KiHGWgqxeRtp8iWgARiqxMNE6GX9v7_gQxd8Z7XWexzco/s320/Fissure+with+fresh+water+Santa+Cruz+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5356243258650176674" border="0" /></a>coast to some incredible lava formations. It was an “e” ticket ride through the surf to get to the protected waters where we saw numerous “bridges” which were originally lava tubes. We snorkeled this interesting place but after about 40 minutes were forced to get out as the water was quite cold. We saw turtles and lots of fish in this clear water but no sharks. This was surprising as that is where they usually hang out. After we ate our lunch, we walked out on a lava field and saw where we had come in through the surf. It was quite unnerving, as we knew we were going to have to go out through these breaking waves. Our driver started both 70 horsepower engines, had them going full bore and timed the waves perfectly. It was a wild ride back to the boat and we considered it another exceptional day in the Galapagos.<br />Our 30 days allotted at the islands came to a close all too quickly. Our last meal ashore was lobster soup, fresh guava juice, fried fish medallions, rice, a bean and potato salad and a peach half for dessert-all for $2.50 U.S.! During our last sunset at Isla Isabela, we were privileged to have a flock of 7 flamingos fly by the boat, circle and head back to their lagoon. They, like parrots and macaws, do a lot of “talking” when they fly. It was a memorable sight and a fitting farewell to the Galapagos.<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUK9bfdJPnWmpvH04qS_uxOfKPxael1OJM9t0ZczgflbxlvxqNNbBWwHrKIUsCIxb12fOc4FwKPnDE4bkq0Ta8_rmPxT8CXWoekyAqJORT78YE4JEGKMxyb-TCA3Gf0RHDFDK1LMwN4eg/s1600-h/Galapagos+penguins+2+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUK9bfdJPnWmpvH04qS_uxOfKPxael1OJM9t0ZczgflbxlvxqNNbBWwHrKIUsCIxb12fOc4FwKPnDE4bkq0Ta8_rmPxT8CXWoekyAqJORT78YE4JEGKMxyb-TCA3Gf0RHDFDK1LMwN4eg/s320/Galapagos+penguins+2+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5356243479559463474" border="0" /></a><br />We decided to sail with Joe to Panama, and then to fly back to Ecuador, for two reasons: 1. Joe would not have to sail the 900 miles alone and 2. We stood a better chance of getting another 90-day visa for Ecuador flying in from another country. Little did we realize what would happen! We sailed all day to Isla Baltra, where the main airport is located. This little island was home to the U.S. military back in 1942, after the Pearl Harbor attack, when an airstrip and base was set up to protect the Panama Canal. The base is now closed but the scars remain. This airport is where the bulk of the 90,000 (!)tourists fly in each year to visit the Galapagos.<br />After riding a bus from the main harbor of Puerto Seymour to the airport, we found that we could not check out of the country as we had planned. It seemed the officials at the airport did not have the correct stamp! (they are big on stamps in Latin America.) So, from the airport we took a truck-taxi, <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqIhgcS69Lvb0XZcDpfyDP_ZJizKy0cQ5cwThPXOAEtWm35dVvXGZK-6k2sJ65BIGQmM5u6ahyphenhyphenbBAT_55uiRKHne2Caks81RqKqOUOHtFRDT25mwWnPE-ySa21qp0E4-j1FJ4mfYpTkgA/s1600-h/Galapagos+Isla+Isabela+013+%5B320x200%5D.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqIhgcS69Lvb0XZcDpfyDP_ZJizKy0cQ5cwThPXOAEtWm35dVvXGZK-6k2sJ65BIGQmM5u6ahyphenhyphenbBAT_55uiRKHne2Caks81RqKqOUOHtFRDT25mwWnPE-ySa21qp0E4-j1FJ4mfYpTkgA/s320/Galapagos+Isla+Isabela+013+%5B320x200%5D.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5356243261669839026" border="0" /></a>a water-taxi, and a regular taxi across the island of Santa Cruz, to Puerto Ayora, where the “correct” stamp for checking out of the country was affixed to our passports. Along the way, we were able to pick up more fresh fruits and vegetables and visit two enormous sinkholes. One was 900 meters diameter by 400 meters deep and the other was 1000 meter diameter and 200 feet deep with vertical walls-very impressive.<br />Anchor was raised at daybreak on Wednesday, Nov. 24 and we set sail for Panama. As the Galapagos archipelago faded behind us, we felt ambivalent about the problems and opportunities facing this unique part of the world. An intense struggle is being waged between the conflicting interests and demands of a variety of groups. Ranged against each other are the scientists and conservation people, who want the islands protected at all cost from the ravages of humans and non-ende<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiX_4PwNOXkeedNPVPO0A4f3ZbhmCr1m6tGALxdfyl-wPLOeIxNO9M8Kmf3TO_YoMdPeE2xG6cAC74KK6sRZwrEKkzF9XhwT2KSj9YGZ6DJuVqQJrUesx0y7q_Bbne3HxTwP8TCDaGsVJU/s1600-h/DSC01270+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiX_4PwNOXkeedNPVPO0A4f3ZbhmCr1m6tGALxdfyl-wPLOeIxNO9M8Kmf3TO_YoMdPeE2xG6cAC74KK6sRZwrEKkzF9XhwT2KSj9YGZ6DJuVqQJrUesx0y7q_Bbne3HxTwP8TCDaGsVJU/s320/DSC01270+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5356243032541562802" border="0" /></a>mic animals and plants, the burgeoning tourist industry, with its demands for “big-city” amenities amongst the pristine surroundings, the industrial fishing fleets from the mainland and Asia, with their insatiable greed for the rich sea-food that thrives around the islands, the local and foreign fishermen, who have not hesitated in using violent tactics to assert their “right” to ravage the local waters of sea-cucumbers (not for food, but for “aphrodisiacs” for the Chinese market) and sharks, (slaughtered so that Japanese diners may feast on shark-fin soup) and, finally, the ever-increasing number of “settlers” from the mainland, arriving to cash in on the lucrative tourist business. With the Ecuadorian economy in decline, the demand for more “clean” tourist dollars is almost irresistible and the pressure for more tourist-friendly development is likely to continue. Fortunately, many international conservation groups are providing funds and maintaining close watch on the islands, so there is hope for the future of these crown jewels. We consider ourselves most fortunate in seeing at least one island – Isabela – that remains relatively unspoilt. As a local guide put it, “we had to sacrifice one island (Santa Cruz) to save this one.”<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqu1rQ0TOL1s7f5NCaYdTH9d7S9F8PBiUgEA6UVorw_0T1VKcdct5wHTVi4B4SzmCoe58dBQLtCoCADkItFGTrqQ6dSxHanVS6EGSqKdWBZhVXj96gG78E0J8D96PMtF2HBhJq3kibtE0/s1600-h/DSC01356+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqu1rQ0TOL1s7f5NCaYdTH9d7S9F8PBiUgEA6UVorw_0T1VKcdct5wHTVi4B4SzmCoe58dBQLtCoCADkItFGTrqQ6dSxHanVS6EGSqKdWBZhVXj96gG78E0J8D96PMtF2HBhJq3kibtE0/s320/DSC01356+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5356243033541057106" border="0" /></a><br />As we sailed towards Panama in brisk trade winds, with 1.5 knots of current against us, we enjoyed a Thanksgiving dinner of turkey spam, baked potatoes and broccoli with baked apples for dessert. It was the best the chef could do under the circumstances turkeys are around; however, they are alive and none of us were up to doing the nasty deed).<br />Our trip went well with the southeast trades even though we still had the adverse current slowing us down. As we worked our way north, however, we ran into a line of squalls, which marked a shift to stronger head-winds - and still that adverse current. With 25 to 30 knot head winds and rough, confused seas, we were within 30 miles of the Colombian coast, an area we wanted to avoid but were not able to head up any closer to the wind and Panama. During a pitch-black, squally night, with a torn jib and a malfunctioning autopilot, the spinnaker pole bracket broke and the mast-stored spinnaker pole started flailing around the foredeck. On top of all this, there were two blips on the radar ahead of us, keeping pace. One’s imagination tends to work overtime when in this kind of situation. Anyway, the winds abated, daylight came, and the 2 boats lying in wait turned out to be shrimpers. Just then, Linda spotted a float on the port side and then one on the starboard side-not good. Quickly the engine was put in neutral just in time as the long-line went under the winged keel of the Beneteau, past the folding prop and caught on the rudder, bringing us to an abrupt stop. Fortunately, Joe was able to hook the line, Linda ascertained it was only around the rudder and John got the knife to cut the line. Soon we were on our way again, slowly. With fuel running low, the wind gods finally smiled upon us, the wind and waves calmed somewhat, and we finally arrived at Espiritu Santo in the Pearl Islands after 10 1/2 days at sea. After two days rest, we headed into Panama City to complete the voyage.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtBgJXAAdfuLeG8P0ZF6lXCQD5LRiTh0-wd1zU7oHOcoiG-M7WAd7KbM6kQwbGqY2UNVWOjztXza72r_gOaBiHvZ9bEsFyxQWPCCxFi5PT0Lv6A4r7hbeaI5ggB5ApzgaTSuNPivrAXR4/s1600-h/DSC01547+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtBgJXAAdfuLeG8P0ZF6lXCQD5LRiTh0-wd1zU7oHOcoiG-M7WAd7KbM6kQwbGqY2UNVWOjztXza72r_gOaBiHvZ9bEsFyxQWPCCxFi5PT0Lv6A4r7hbeaI5ggB5ApzgaTSuNPivrAXR4/s320/DSC01547+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5356243249020942690" border="0" /></a><br />After spending a week in Panama City visiting with friends, we said farewell to friend Joe and flew back to Ecuador where we were successful in getting another three-month visa. The Christmas Season in Bahia is busy and there is actually traffic on the streets. Some nights the music goes most of the night but we are enjoying this wonderful place and look forward to more exploration.<br />A sentence we read in a book and really like: “Doing nothing is really hard because you never know when you are done.” We hope the New Year affords you the opportunity to do this. John and Linda, HAWKEYE<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqu1rQ0TOL1s7f5NCaYdTH9d7S9F8PBiUgEA6UVorw_0T1VKcdct5wHTVi4B4SzmCoe58dBQLtCoCADkItFGTrqQ6dSxHanVS6EGSqKdWBZhVXj96gG78E0J8D96PMtF2HBhJq3kibtE0/s1600-h/DSC01356+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"></a><input id="gwProxy" type="hidden"><!--Session data--><input onclick="jsCall();" id="jsProxy" type="hidden"><div id="refHTML"></div><input id="gwProxy" type="hidden"><!--Session data--><input onclick="jsCall();" id="jsProxy" type="hidden"><div id="refHTML"></div><input id="gwProxy" type="hidden"><!--Session data--><input onclick="jsCall();" id="jsProxy" type="hidden"><div id="refHTML"></div><input id="gwProxy" type="hidden"><!--Session data--><input onclick="jsCall();" id="jsProxy" type="hidden"><div id="refHTML"></div><input id="gwProxy" type="hidden"><!--Session data--><input onclick="jsCall();" id="jsProxy" type="hidden"><div id="refHTML"></div><input id="gwProxy" type="hidden"><!--Session data--><input onclick="jsCall();" id="jsProxy" type="hidden"><div id="refHTML"></div><input id="gwProxy" type="hidden"><!--Session data--><input onclick="jsCall();" id="jsProxy" type="hidden"><div id="refHTML"></div><input id="gwProxy" type="hidden"><!--Session data--><input onclick="jsCall();" id="jsProxy" type="hidden"><div id="refHTML"></div>About John and Lindahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09804781596879702975noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-919823168408227838.post-69300160660691296582004-11-30T14:52:00.001+12:002009-11-05T12:00:56.367+12:00Touring Southern Ecuador on $25 a daySouthern Ecuador on $25 a day:<br /><br />Sun 10-3-2004 Bahia to Guayaquil<br />Linda and Teri left Bahia at 7:15am on the Reina del Camino bus for Guayaquil ($7 each). After a 15-minute stop in Puertoviejo at 9:30 we arrived in Guayaquil about 12:30. Took a taxi for $3 to the Pacifica Hosteling on Escobedo and Luis Urdaneta, and got a spacious room for $7 per person, with private bath and shower with hot water. (The TV didn’t work though.) Pacifica Hosteling is on the edge of the downtown area, three blocks north of the department stores. We walked in the opposite direction though; four blocks to the artisan mercado where we found the prices to be high for that sort of stuff. You can always talk the vendors down in price but it was too early in our trip to be buying things. Had an almuerzo lunch across from the market. Went to the 1-2-3 dollar store and bought a box of 100 colored pens for $3 to have something to throw to the kids when we do our Great Train Ride. Crossed the street to the north end of the malecón, a very wide promenade that runs for blocks along the river. The show at the IMAX caught our eye so got tickets for $2 to see The Galapagos. IMAX is like being in a planetarium, the screen wrapping overhead and around. The Galapagos show was dramatic with views of the volcanic islands, the wildlife and a ride in a two-man submarine to scoop up deep sea creatures. After the show we strolled through the botanical gardens, then on down to the south end of the malecón where we did a tour of the “Orion”, a research ship of the Ecuadorian Navy, and found a Chinese sidewalk restaurant for dinner. We window shopped the stores in the underground shopping mall of the malecón and were doing fine until we found a bead shop. We each spent $5 on necklaces and beads and bought a $6 bottle of Amaretto. Not quite sure what Amaretto was doing in a bead store but it was made in Ecuador, with a cute label. Back up from the underground we had ice cream cones for dessert as we walked back to the other end of the malecón. Took a taxi for $1 from the malecón back to our hostel. So far so good – it was a $25 day for each, excluding the bottle of Amaretto which we will amortize over the total days of our trip. Oh, and excluding the bead shop purchase.<br />Pacific Hosteling on Escobedo between Luis Urdaneta and Junin<br />Artisan market on Montalvo and Moreno<br /><br />Mon 10-4 Guayaquil to Guaranda to Salinas<br />Up at 6:30 and took a taxi to the bus terminal in Guayaquil, keeping an eye out for how to ride the city bus next time. Avoiding all the shouting bus ticket barkers inside the terminal, we found the Guaranda bus and caught the 8am bound for Babahoyo first. Babahoyo is at sea level, a watery town at the juncture of five rivers flowing down from the Andes. The riverbanks are lined with interesting bamboo houses on stilts, long gangplank sidewalks running every which way. Tried to take some pictures but the busses never slow down enough. After Bahahoyo soon we started climbing up into the Andes, arriving in Guaranda about 12:30. Panting from the altitude, we walked the mountainous town toward the bus stop to Salinas, stopping every few blocks to catch our breath and to ask directions. Found a place for an almuerzo lunch along the way then found the bus stop. Waiting there was a bus/truck ready for boarding. A bus like this I had never seen, church pew wooden benches mounted on a flat bed truck, with a roof overhead. We were ready for great views, as we knew we were climbing higher into the Andes, but just before we took off they <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZDCnk9sldWJg2rCEAIQm2COpbiZGsWKbmw9pJwL23Zq56uteqoKmneHYHbfegxKmO6gFIe0U67CX0dexGz4DwV-Cufv4LWtxvFvJ-pIMVcY8aShCHA_KcXDwL8fgyEAEPm-xmKKY_ny0/s1600-h/Travels+with+Teri+168+%5B320x200%5D.jpg"><img style="MARGIN: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; WIDTH: 230px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 200px; CURSOR: pointer" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5374679606739585522" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZDCnk9sldWJg2rCEAIQm2COpbiZGsWKbmw9pJwL23Zq56uteqoKmneHYHbfegxKmO6gFIe0U67CX0dexGz4DwV-Cufv4LWtxvFvJ-pIMVcY8aShCHA_KcXDwL8fgyEAEPm-xmKKY_ny0/s320/Travels+with+Teri+168+%5B320x200%5D.jpg" /></a>rolled down plastic curtains from the roof, which we could barely see through. The rest of the passengers, all indigenous wearing their felt hats and all seeming to know each other, laughed at our disappointment. They explained that it would be a cold ride without the curtains. Linda and I were clearly a curiosity to everyone on the bus, but they were very nice and smiling, asking where we were from and how we liked their mountains.<br />Arriving in the town square of little Salinas we found a little tourist bureau where no one spoke any English, but they directed us UP the dirt road to the El Refugio Hotel. It was a quite a trudge, under a drizzly sky. But we found the cozy hotel, looking like a ski lodge with overstuffed chairs around a wooden fireplace in the lobby, a diningroom with big windows overlooking the green valley, and dorm rooms upstairs. The proprietress was a kindly Ecuadorian lady who ushered us up the wide wooden staircase to a dorm room with our choice of 6 beds, $5 per person, bathroom and shower down the hall. Since we were the only customers, we had the whole floor to ourselves. We could have had a lovely room downstairs, with private bath and garden for $9 per person (breakfast included) but we were bound and determined to do this trip at $25 a day. We each picked a bed under a window with a beautiful view overlooking the town, mountains looming behind, looking like a scene in the Alps. It was minus the snow, but it felt cold enough for snow. Went downstairs to the lobby where the Direct TV was on; but the real attraction was the fire in the fireplace. We both had headaches from the altitude and I had to miss dinner because I had a bad stomachache. We had come from sea level to 3550 meters (11,600 feet). Linda had to enjoy a good meal in the diningroom by herself ($2). We watched TV with the proprietress until 9 o’clock at night before retiring to our cold beds upstairs. But we managed to stay warm by sleeping under many heavy blankets that weighed a ton. In the night I awoke once to see a beautiful scene of the silver full moon rising up from behind the mountains and playing hide and seek with the clouds.<br />El Refugio Hotel, Salinas: www.salinerito.com email: turismo1@salinerito.com or isael_71@hotmail.com Telefax: (593) 03-2 390-022<br /><br />Tue 10-5 Salinas to Guaranda to Riobamba via Volcan Chimborazo<br />Awoke at 6am to almost clear skies, thankfully with headaches and stomachache gone. We took pictures of the surrounding area from our dorm room windows, attracted by our view down onto to a hobbit house with a grass roof. After breakfast we went to the town square where they were setting up for market day and bought beautiful wool shawls for $2. At the tourist bureau we decided to take the $3.50, 2-hour factory tour with Lenin, the English-speaking Ecuadorian who runs the restaurant/Internet Café.<br />The walking tour started off with the cheese co-op where they made many kinds of cheese from milk we saw being brought in on the backs of donkeys. Their local springs supply mineral water for the brine to make the chess, a special mix from two different springs. We learned that a Swiss man visited this little town in the 70ies who felt at home and decided to bring Swiss techniques and machinery to the people here. Next we visited a Soya bean factory where kids were working to sort and package beans. One kid was stirring some brew of milk and Soya in a big pot. Ahhh, on to the chocolate co-op of good smells, where we sampled some white chocolate and <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijE_uf_uDjQdMsgMxy2eXSMdu-HVvH8eUKsHWfnMqilKEB-EgOAE5GcJvK9Wj5JsMxIR5hK3c_sozxwLkpMy_bHJWyrBSo7tTT052i8HSauNXq7tR8CI9yyHrEnhz0CvuMbwspI1y3k_Q/s1600-h/Travels+with+Teri+077+%5B320x200%5D.jpg"><img style="MARGIN: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; WIDTH: 150px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 200px; CURSOR: pointer" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5374679574201341410" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijE_uf_uDjQdMsgMxy2eXSMdu-HVvH8eUKsHWfnMqilKEB-EgOAE5GcJvK9Wj5JsMxIR5hK3c_sozxwLkpMy_bHJWyrBSo7tTT052i8HSauNXq7tR8CI9yyHrEnhz0CvuMbwspI1y3k_Q/s320/Travels+with+Teri+077+%5B320x200%5D.jpg" /></a>macadamia nut candy. The macadamia nuts are grown here in Ecuador as well as the cacao beans for the chocolate. Then we walked across town (which consisted of just a few blocks) to the soccer factory. The jefe here was a woman who owned this one private company, not part of the co-op system. Here we saw a young woman winding and winding six cones of thread on to an inflated rubber ball, developing a right arm like Arnold Schwarzenegger. Many colored piles of hexagon patches were on the other side of the room, a pot of glue was brewing, and some balls in iron forms were cooking in the overn. They were proud of the fact that all the makings for the balls come from Ecuador. They showed us a box of the finished product, soccer balls marked “make in Salinas”, which they hope make it to the next Olympics. Next we poked our heads into the sausage co-op, of not-so-good smells. A team of six men and women were stuffing some red concoction of meat (?) into endlessly long casings. In the outer room brewing over a flame was a large black cast iron pot of unidentifiable animal parts. Lenin picked out some pieces and offered them to us, but we declined, saying we were full from the candy. Next we walked up the hill to the wool factory, stopping along the way to take pictures of a saddled llama parked out in front of someone’s house. We toured two big buildings full of interesting big whirling machinery, where they wash and spin tons of wool yarn from sheep and alpaca, dye it and package it. Next door was the hongo co-op where they dry mushrooms picked from under the pine trees in the rainy season and package them for export to many clients around the world. Back toward the town square we stopped at a shop where ladies were learning to knit with the factory’s yarn. They come from the outlying villages, their husbands bringing livestock to the Tuesday mercado, they learning to knit the sweaters that are for sale in the shop. This little town is incredibly industrious; everyone gets into the act. Passing the school we saw some of the school kids in the field next-door learning how to till the soil. Back at the town square, the mercado was in full swing, colorful and busy. But we had a bus to catch so we only had time to stop at Lenin’s café and buy a package of Mate de Coca tea, reported to cure altitude headaches. Our headaches were still gone so we didn’t test the brew.<br />Got the 11:30 bus to Guaranda, a regular bus this time with windows to view the lush green countryside of vertical cultivated hillsides. Met another gringa on the bus, a young girl from Mountain View, CA. Brandy is teaching English in Salinas and asks for anyone coming to visit Salinas to bring her children’s books in English.<br />We arrived at the bus terminal in Guaranda at 12:55 and rushed right on to the 1:00 bus to Riobamba. This bus took us part way up the side of the volcano Chimborazo, with views of barren landscape and a herd of vicuña (resembling small camels). A man on the bus pointed out the top of the volcano but it was enveloped in white clouds.<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcQrHzl7FVmV2nQ-kP3rorip0W_qzKCWzZxYUs3uXanlcjEs6R3TGp7IMr73Ym6HZBohIj3vNQ-miNBu1tl6xXtJxjhIBXMKznePJzI275pP3HWM-aMcMLOiT5mYLSfNbn5hPtjKXUWMA/s1600-h/Travels+with+Teri+089+%5B320x200%5D.jpg"><img style="MARGIN: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; WIDTH: 150px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 200px; CURSOR: pointer" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5374679583823903074" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcQrHzl7FVmV2nQ-kP3rorip0W_qzKCWzZxYUs3uXanlcjEs6R3TGp7IMr73Ym6HZBohIj3vNQ-miNBu1tl6xXtJxjhIBXMKznePJzI275pP3HWM-aMcMLOiT5mYLSfNbn5hPtjKXUWMA/s320/Travels+with+Teri+089+%5B320x200%5D.jpg" /></a><br />Arrived in Riobamba at 3pm. We had lunch across from the bus terminal then walked many blocks to the hostel end of town. Found Tren Dorado Hostel, a block from the train station, with a room with private bath for $8 per person. Well, almost private bath; the shower had an open grate-covered window looking into a hallway. Walked up to the Cathedral Park for a great view of the city and the surrounding mountains, to a bakery to buy dinner snacks and tomorrow’s breakfast and to the train station to buy our tickets for tomorrow ($11). There was a line to buy the tickets, mostly young adults, European back packer types.<br />Lenin Vasconez, English speaking tourguide in Salinas: Fundacion_Salinas@hotmail.com or Lamingacupe@hotmail.com<br />Brandy Dettmer, gringa teacher in La Escuela de Salinas. Needs children’s books in English and “MadLibs”: Icetape@yahoo.com<br />Hotel Tren Dorado in Riobamba: Carabobo 22-35 y 10 de Agosto email: htrendorado@hotmail.com<br /><br />Wed 10-6 The Great Train Ride Riobamba to Alausi to Ingapirca<br />We got up at 5:30, packed and got to the train station by 5:50. A guy was in the lobby of our hotel renting cushions for a dollar, which we grabbed, having heard you certainly need one. We stopped to buy bananas and yogurt from one of the stands in front of the station and found they were charging double the price. Better to have gone to a store yesterday.<br />At the train, first we had to check in our luggage, then find a spot on top of the train. Even though departure time was an hour away there was already a throng of people, four boxcars starting to fill up on top. We were told the rear of the train was best, away from the smoke from the engine, so we climbed up on the fourth car and found a single seat on the right side and a single seat on the left side, back to back. This worked out well because we could trade sides now and then, getting the best of both views. For the finale, the Devil’s Nose, the right side was best for the precipitous view. But long before the Nariz del Diablo part, the train ride was spectacular on both sides, through beautiful green country, past fields and forests, rivers and streams. And towns where the kids would chase after the train yelling for candy to be thrown down. Wonder what they thought of the colored pens we tossed instead. All along the path of the train people would stop and wave, ladies from their front porch, men in the fields, kids on their way to school. One group of farmers surprised us by throwing up stocks of broccoli from the field. Linda was able to catch one, stowing it away in her backpack. I had thought the train ride would be scary, the roof is somewhat rounded and the guard rail they have installed to accommodate people riding on top is only two bars, 10 inches high. But the train doesn’t go very fast and you soon become in tune with the motion and captivated by the scenery. The scariest part is climbing up on to the roof by the narrow rung ladder on the side of the train. It was a several hour ride to the town of Alausi where we disembarked for a bathroom brake, then piled back on for the ride into the canyon and down the Devil’s Nose. At the bottom they shuffled the cars around, then pulled us back up the Nose and back to the town of Alausi. We got to know our immediate train mates during the 6 hour ride, a group from Italy with an Ecuadorian tour guide, a group of four from Switzerland, a couple from Holland and two young missionaries from England.<br />After a long wait for our luggage to be uncovered behind all the giant European backpacks we walked a block to the bus station where we got the last two seats on the bus to Cuenca ($4). Our goal was Ingapirca, an hour short of Cuenca, but everyone kept telling us we couldn’t stay in Ingapirca; that the nearest town was Cañar. The Lonely Planet GuideBook said there was a hostel in Ingapirca so we decided to get there somehow. From the bus I saw the turnoff for Ingapirca go by and 15 minutes later we were dropped off in Cañar. Quickly looking Cañar up in the Lonny Planet it said there was a Hostal Ingapirca in Cañar so we started asking directions and were directed across town to another bus stop, which was the bus for Ingapirca. Thoroughly confused, we got on the bus and went back the way we came, to the town of El Tambo where the bus circled around town a couple of times before heading up the back hills to Ingapirca. When we pulled up into the town we spotted the one hostel that was listed in the Lonely Planet, a street away from the bus stop. So we made a beeline for it, our rule being to always find a room before the sun went down. In our haste we walked right past a newer hostel, not seeing it until the next morning.<br />So we were a captive audience at <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3gK6NKeDMWaaqbMS3ynXN_jxT4Si8gQD-DnPK86neYjvzHjKCGlJJjU0ZejvQCSKVO42ACwFB7UBUYf65PlSVQj3QMUymL6GQIDpteYO6YrRM05AID9lRFml8s09Wpzpo0klY5RLAoe8/s1600-h/Travels+with+Teri+110+%5B320x200%5D.jpg"><img style="MARGIN: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; WIDTH: 267px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 200px; CURSOR: pointer" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5374679600793559922" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3gK6NKeDMWaaqbMS3ynXN_jxT4Si8gQD-DnPK86neYjvzHjKCGlJJjU0ZejvQCSKVO42ACwFB7UBUYf65PlSVQj3QMUymL6GQIDpteYO6YrRM05AID9lRFml8s09Wpzpo0klY5RLAoe8/s320/Travels+with+Teri+110+%5B320x200%5D.jpg" /></a>the Hostal Ingapirca, her only customers (probably for the year judging by the state of the place). The room at was expensive ($6) for what it was: small, an old place, not too clean, bathroom with a sink that half drained onto the floor, and not-so-hot water in the shower. The proprietress was not very friendly and wouldn’t take less for the neglected accommodations. The rooms were upstairs, over her house and restaurant and we could hear her yelling at her children at night. The dinner in the restaurant was OK but she charged us twice the price she original told us. We aren’t going to recommend this place to anyone. To top it off, when we got to Cuenca the next day I noticed my lipstick from my backpack and my baggie of hair clips were missing, probably pilfered out of the room by the children while we were touring the ruins. But at least nothing expensive was taken, and this was our only bad experience on the whole trip, not bad for an extemporaneous venture.<br /><br />Thur 10-7 Ingapirca Ruins Cañar to Cuenca<br />Up at 7am. We had granola bars for breakfast and walked half a mile up a country road to the ruins (10,000 feet altitude). There was a $6 entry fee that included a museum with guided talk and another guide for the ruins. The museum was small but very nicely laid out with an interesting talk as far as we could tell, but it was in Spanish. As we started to walk to the ruins we were approached by a handsome Ecuadorian man in a safari hat who said in English he was our assigned guide. For an extra fee he would walk with us about the ruins but a talk on the mound was free. We opted for “free”. We certainly got our money’s worth; he must have talked with us for an hour and a half. He told us of the Cañari civilization of the early 1400’s (before the Incas), who started this city. They were a peaceful civilization, farmers and sun worshipers, having erected the sun temple still standing today. The rounded base, of precise square stone work in greenish square foot blocks, was built by the Cañaris. The top half of the temple, their way of measuring the solstice, was rebuilt by the conquering Incas. The Incas only reigned for 30 years, then disappeared here for unknown reasons. The Spanish came in the early 1500’s. The dress of the indigenous that we see today that we think of as “Indian” is really the dress adopted by the Indians from the Spanish, the heavy colorful skirts of velvet with embroidery around the bottom and the capes of wool. Each region has its unique pin or button for fastening the cape. We sidetracked Raphael at one point, asking him about the nice American style houses we could see scattered on the hills. In our part of the Ecuadorian countryside in the north you don’t see that. Well – we found out that many of these families find a way (using coyotes) to send a son or a husband to the US to work and send back money. There is a large community of Ecuadorians for example in Queens in New York. Raphael had been in New York for five years, hence his good English. But he didn’t have to use a Coyote; his family legally sent him, being of wealth. After hearing of the ancient civilizations of this land we also got a glimpse into the modern civilization of this land. Raphael told us he has a 21-day-old son, just born to him by the daughter of a servant of his family. She is actually the daughter of the nanny who raised him. So we thought they must have grown up together, but found out she is 20 years younger than Raphael. He has moved out of the family house and set up a house for his new family. He has taken the baby to be seen by his mother and sister and they approve because fortunately the baby has light skin, but he can’t show the baby to his father or he would be disinherited. Linda and I thought how romantic for the mother of the baby but Raphael informed us that he will never marry her, he is going to look for his proper wife someday, but he will continue to support the girl and his baby. This is the stuff of which movies are made.<br />Back on the subject of the ruins, Raphael explained the lay of the land: the short walls defining the palaces, the common housing, the store rooms for the harvest, the craft workshops, and the highest mound with the temple still standing tall. Lastly he pointed out the area we were standing on, the burial grounds for the sacrificed virgins (Linda and I both jumped) and then he had to get back to the museum having talked with us longer than he was supposed to. So we headed off to walk the ruins with a better appreciation of what we were looking at. Behind the ruins was a slope of smooth rocks Raphael had told us to be sure and climb. So we did and were rewarded with a perfect view overlooking a perfect valley behind. We lay on the smooth rocks and hung our heads over the cliff to take in the forested hills, grassy hills, green fields, a winding river and a waterfall.<br />Reluctant to pull ourselves away from this perfect spot, but we had other places to go, things to see, so we walked back to the hostel to retrieve our luggage. Caught the bus to Cañar where we grabbed a hamburger and a coke to consume on the bus to Cuenca. Arrived at the bus terminal in Cuenca about 2:30. This is the nicest of bus terminals we have found in Ecuador, with a visitor’s lounge where you can organize yourself and get a city map and good information from the girl at the counter. She helped us figure out which city bus to take downtown to find The Hostal Monasterio. This turned out to be an interesting place, hotel rooms spread throughout a 6-story office building. We chose a two-bed dorm room on the third floor with a half bath on the third floor, in-between a lawyer’s office and a language school. The hostel desk, TV lobby, showroom and lunchroom were on the 6th floor.<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1Vl5ZIh8wvb8qyn5XLZFZ13LJKt6M5_WR6y-trEwSm5rWko_RyI7Xi8MVRL08pTTWj9WAGZHN8RJpujEE8ixU-lRTU5EgytASkyWGuaXtq-586SJ6O67K3isHcbz6mYtx1mODOBFXi38/s1600-h/Travels+with+Teri+106+%5B320x200%5D.jpg"><img style="MARGIN: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; WIDTH: 210px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 200px; CURSOR: pointer" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5374679591786294034" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1Vl5ZIh8wvb8qyn5XLZFZ13LJKt6M5_WR6y-trEwSm5rWko_RyI7Xi8MVRL08pTTWj9WAGZHN8RJpujEE8ixU-lRTU5EgytASkyWGuaXtq-586SJ6O67K3isHcbz6mYtx1mODOBFXi38/s320/Travels+with+Teri+106+%5B320x200%5D.jpg" /></a><br />Across the street was an artisan’s market covering most of the block so there we went. Same stuff you see in all the artisan markets, but what caught our eye was the crocheting being done by many of the Indian ladies with interesting fuzzy yarn in rich colors. We got one of the ladies to show us her pattern for crocheting the scraf and she offered to sell us some of the yarn for $4 a skein (the finished scarves are $6), saying she couldn’t take less and the yarn could only be bought in Quito or Otovalo. So we bought a couple of skeins. There was still daylight left and we could see a yarn shop across the street so we decided to do some research. Turned out there was a shop in Cuenca that sold the yarn, but it took an hour of asking directions and walking several blocks to find it. There we bought some of the same yarn at $1.90 a skein, many colors to choose from. On the way back to the hostel we bought some crochet hooks and couldn’t pass up the panadería for dessert goodies for 60 cents. We found a trendy little café for merinda dinners of $1.50 with great soup. Back to our room on the now deserted office floor where we enjoyed our dessert and talked until midnight, planning the rest of our itinerary.<br />Good yarn shop: F&M Bazar on Calle Tarqui 7-56 entre P. Córdova y Sucre<br />Hostal Monasterio on Aguirre 7-24 across from mercado San Francisco<br /><br />Fri 10-8 Cuenca<br />We were awakened at 5:30am by a profusion of church bells. Guess that is what you get when you stay in the downtown church district. Worked on crocheting scarves. Walked to a tienda, bought yogurt, bananas, cheese and raisins for $4 and went back to the lunchroom in the hostel for breakfast. Made a tour of the downtown, visiting some of the churches to see the elaborate stained glass windows, stopping at the flower mart to smell the roses, dropping in at the courthouse to photograph the architecture, perusing an art gallery and browsing some of the shops.<br />Found a tourist information center to ask about going to Principal, a small town 40 miles from Cuenca. Linda had picked up a flyer in Riobamba advertising the place. The tourist agent made a phone call and assured us the town existed but didn’t have any more information on it. Went back to the hostel to fix our lunch. Linda made us a salad from the broccoli she caught on the train, with raisins and yogurt. We shared the lunchroom with a Swiss couple and heard about their 6-month tour of the US. They bought a van and drove from coast to coast, staying at Wal-Marts. They really liked the US, said everyone was very friendly and the shopping was good at Wal-Mart. Then they traveled by bus through Mexico, Central America and here to Ecuador. In Ecuador she had her passport and credit cards stolen on the bus from Quito to Baños. Her backpack was on the floor between her feet and some kid or very thin person crawled under the seat to get at it.<br />After lunch we walked around the town some more, coming across a Che Guevara memorial concert on the steps of one of the churches. They were selling some nice drawings of Che. He is sure popular in this country; you see his picture in many places. Walked several blocks to the edge of downtown to find the hostel where Linda’s John stayed when he came to Cuenca with Joe. La Cafecita Hostel/Restaurant is near the river, so we wanted to check it out for a place to stay when we do the riverwalk and ruins. We liked the place, dorm rooms for $4 per person around an interior courtyard restaurant or rooms with private bathroom and shower along a garden out in back for $7 per person. There is music in the restaurant until 11:00 every night but after that the place is very quiet. It looked like a hangout for bohemian types so we put it on our list of likely places to stay in Cuenca. Back to our neck of the woods, in the heart of downtown, we went to Casa de la Mujer across from the Artisan market. It was almost 5:00 so many of the shops were closed but we looked at what was there, two stories of small shops built around an interior courtyard. Looks like this would be a great place to spend some time looking and shopping and having lunch. Oh well, another day.<br />For dinner we splurged and went to The Eucalyptus, a nice restaurant in the downtown area. We spent $10 (expensive for us), enjoyed the ambiance with a glass of wine and planned our route to Principal for tomorrow. Hey, we are still averaging $25 a day!<br />Casa de la Mujer: interesting place on General torres www.cartesanalcmujer.com<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6JgisYea2yBvXPXu-X2hACD6OaSbtVcAWWvFaZObq0BYNDNI6q6E02iNFMakS_e7d8yezOA22dewDBMCQmCFIPPrSs0IO1Tb1qQEhkuMk0O_M8J2_FVO-6UrCsX5rG39Lj4y4I3Nffh8/s1600-h/Travels+with+Teri+053+%5B320x200%5D.jpg"><img style="MARGIN: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; WIDTH: 150px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 200px; CURSOR: pointer" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5374679272903556162" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6JgisYea2yBvXPXu-X2hACD6OaSbtVcAWWvFaZObq0BYNDNI6q6E02iNFMakS_e7d8yezOA22dewDBMCQmCFIPPrSs0IO1Tb1qQEhkuMk0O_M8J2_FVO-6UrCsX5rG39Lj4y4I3Nffh8/s320/Travels+with+Teri+053+%5B320x200%5D.jpg" /></a><br />Sat 10-9 Cuenca to Principal<br />We fixed breakfast in the kitchen at our hostel – granola and yogurt. The kitchen/diningroom could sure use some help. With a good cleaning, some paint and a bit of imagination it could be a charming place with its glass ceiling and wrap around windows. It has a fabulous view across the many church tops and down on to the mercado across the street.<br />We packed our bags and caught the city bus at the corner, two blocks away. Twenty-five cents to the bus terminal beats a taxi and these buses seem fine safety-wise unlike the crowded buses in Quito. Caught the bus to Chordeleg ($!.50), a 25-mile ride east of Cuenca. Dropped off at the plaza in Chordeleg, we were offered a ride in a truck to Principal for $10. But we kept insisting there was a bus going there until someone finally pointed up the street. So we started walking and another bus came along and picked us up to drive us several blocks to drop us off where we told to wait on the corner. Sure enough, the bus to Principal showed up in a few minutes. The bus to Principal was 50 cents and a beautiful scenic ride, up into green countryside, a river winding below. At the end of the road, at the top of the river valley, we arrived in the very small town of Principal and were dropped off in front of Hostel Anabel. We were met by Nida and her little 7-year-old daughter who live in and run the hostel. Nida showed us upstairs where we had our pick of two dorm rooms; the one in front with four beds or the one in back with three sets of bunk beds. We chose the front room but were thwarted in our decision by the immediate arrival of 5 girls, and then a family of four. Poor Nida, no one had made a reservation, so she was confused about what to do with all of us. Turned out the 5 girls knew the family as they were all from the same Spanish language school in Cuenca. So we organized ourselves and Linda and I ended up in the bunkbed room with four of the girls and Dedra opted to stay with the family in the front room.<br />We left Nida making beds as we all walked across the street to the restaurant which was really just the diningroom of someone’s house. We took them by surprise too; so while waiting quite awhile for the meal to be prepared (they probably had to go in their garden to pick enough vegetables) we sat on the side porch and got to know each other. The family of four from the States was Susan, a teacher on sabbatical, Tim, a design drafter and 7-year-old Kate and 11-year old Tad. The girls, all 20-somethings, were Lilli a Chinese girl from Canada, Stephanie from Switzerland, Dedra from Denmark, Elizabeth from Michigan and Keara from Washington State, each very interesting and friendly. Our hour-long wait was well rewarded with a delicious homecooked meal of soup with popcorn, chicken, mashed potatoes and broccoli.<br />After lunch Guido and Juan, the local tour guides showed up to take us for a hike. First was a walk through the small village where we saw some colorful skirts hanging out on a line. We thought it was laundry but our guide said something about someone dying and these were the clothes put out for people to take. Guido is a Quechua Indian, Spanish not his native language, so we had a hard time understanding him. (Quechua was the official language of the Inca Empire, which ruled much of the Andes region from the mid-1400s until the arrival of Spanish conquistadors in 1532. Those who speak Quechua as their first language are called Quechua Indians by the dominant Spanish-speaking cultures, but most Quechua speakers, who live in numerous distinct cultural groups, prefer to identify themselves with their Inca heritage…… From Encarta)<br />Continuing through the village we saw some ladies making panama hats and tried on the almost finished products. Saw some kids playing in the street. Not a lot of Tonka Toys around here – one kid was rolling a big hoop with a stick (bringing to Linda’s mind a picture of her Grandfather as a child) and several kids were running with plastic bags tied to cassette tape. Out past the last house of the village was a trail leading uphill where we came across an abandoned adobe house – full of guinea pigs. I thought the guide was kidding but he went up and rattled the door causing the squeaks of a hundred trapped guinea pigs. Leaving that Stephen King like novel setting behind we continued up the trail to a view across the river of the El Chorro de Principal Waterfall. Next in order was a walk down a steep trail to the river, to cool our feet in the clear cold rushing water before rock climbing up the river to a different trail home. On the edge of town we stopped at a small house with a trout pond in front, a pile of puppies and chickens all mixed up on the front porch.<br />Back to our cozy dinigroom across the street for a dinner of cream of carrot soup, bananas and grapes and good tea. This time while waiting for dinner we drew pictures with Kate and Tad. Back to our dorm room where sat on our bunk beds and talked and passed around the bottle of Amaretto.<br />To get to Pricipal: Buses from Cuenca Bus Terminal to Chordeleg leave every ½ hour. Change buses in Chordeleg. Bus stop for Principal Bus is four blocks after Chordeleg’s Parque Central, on Av. Guayaquil. Buses Chordeleg – Principal every 40 minutes (6:30am to 6:30pm).<br />Only hostel in Principal is Hostel Anabel www.projectsforpeace.org/chordeleg email: guacamayas2@yahoo.com 07-229-0737 or 09-996-8297 or 07-229-0742<br /><br />Sun 10-10 Principal<br />Up at 6:30 and we all went across the street to the house of delightful cuisine. Waiting for breakfast Linda and I taught everyone toe weaving. The lady of the house served us a thick veggie omelet and fresh tomato juice. Outside in the street were waiting the first of our horses for our group of six who wanted to ride for the day. Three of the girls elected to hike to the Tres Lagos and Tim and Tad opted to walk around the village on their own. We were supposed to have the horses at 8am but it was 9:30 before we mounted. They had trouble gathering enough horses from around the village and it turned out to be a bad idea. The horses were workhorses, not used to being ridden and they weren’t used to each other. Whenever they got too close together they started kicking, making for a wild ride. And the saddles were interesting, of wood (actually not as uncomfortable as they looked), the stirrups of metal, hung on ropes, and the bridles rope with no bit in the mouth so it was hard to make a point with the horse. One of the men delivering one of the horses saw how much trouble we were having and volunteered to come along as an extra guide, most of the time leading one of our horses.<br />Linda’s steed was especially unruly, spooked and bucked several times at inopportune moments like on a narrow steep trail. At one point Linda finally had to get off and walk, Guido leading her horse. Susie and daughter Kate rode together on one horse and that was fine until the horse took off running across a meadow and the two of them slid off, fortunately onto soft turf. Kate was a real trouper about getting right back on.<br />In spite of the rough ride, it was a great day of incredible views of mountains, valleys, rivers and vegetation. Guido was always stopping to point out some plant that was used for herbs, medicine or food; picking us wild strawberries and other fruits to eat and leaves to taste. Mid-day we came to Las Dos Encuentras, the merging of two rivers where we parked the horses and climbed to a meadow of grass and wildflowers overlooking the river valley. The view behind was of the top of a dormant volcano, one side of the top caved in. Here we had our lunch, supplied by our lady from across the street – fired chicken, a pancake thing of veggies, bananas and apples. It felt like we were on top of the world. And just when you thought you were a million miles from civilization, you see a woman in a bright red skirt with a purple cape and felt hat leading a couple of cows across the next hill.<br />Hiked back to the horses and we continued over hill and dale, much of the time on a narrow, rocky, slippery, muddy and precipitous trail, the trail so narrow at times that our feet were knocked out of the stirrups. Sometimes the trail was so deep you couldn’t see over the top. We were glad for the rubber boots we rented for 60 cents. Many times the horses slid and tripped on the wet rocks. Donkeys might have been better for this ancient trail, the path the Cañari people used before the Incas. We finally got back to the edge of the village at 3:30, coming down past the water gathering tank where they make electricity for the town and add chlorine to the water. We passed by orchards of fruit trees (peach and apple) in bloom and by gardens of oversized vegetables and beautiful flowers. We dismounted at the hostel where we were sure glad to be back on the ground with no serious injuries. The town was nice to accommodate our wish to go horseback riding but we wouldn’t recommend it again for a large group since there is a shortage in the town of good riding horses. In the beginning we weren’t sure how much this was going to cost but in the end we each paid $8.50 for the horse, and $2.50 for the guides. Both guides worked very hard, controlling the horses and hiking the whole way. The second guide had only been back to the Andes for five months from living in the States and he admitted he wasn’t fully acclimated to the altitude.<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg95cbCgg_YlV7Tx6Cqm8KD8vISV9hM5Ts7oGIi8DOUEERWHxOxFCKCTaDKlXLHENXMrhmRntYytfw15iwWa84a-2NCPFFRK0X1Q9zGUgn2VjAlErWHJOOau8j0BwU-TojDzaVYv3OENy8/s1600-h/Travels+with+Teri+064+%5B320x200%5D.jpg"><img style="MARGIN: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; WIDTH: 150px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 200px; CURSOR: pointer" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5374679285061090018" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg95cbCgg_YlV7Tx6Cqm8KD8vISV9hM5Ts7oGIi8DOUEERWHxOxFCKCTaDKlXLHENXMrhmRntYytfw15iwWa84a-2NCPFFRK0X1Q9zGUgn2VjAlErWHJOOau8j0BwU-TojDzaVYv3OENy8/s320/Travels+with+Teri+064+%5B320x200%5D.jpg" /></a><br />Lilly, Stephanie and the family left for Cuenca before the hiking girls returned and Linda and I had time to take showers. When Dedra, Elizabeth and Keara returned they were weary girls with sore muscles and blisters. Their trip to the lakes was very beautiful but turned out to be more of a mountain climb than a hike. After Linda and I helped the last three girls to hurry to catch the last bus out of town things seemed very quiet. We went to dinner across the street, broccoli soup and popcorn, baked apple, tangerine and tea, watching Jurrasic Park on the TV, in Spanish. We said goodbye to the lady as we thanked and complimented her for all the great meals.<br />This sure turned out to be a great place; the accommodations nice, clean and cheap ($6 per person per nite) in a quiet little town, the hikes beautiful, and the homecooked food fantastic (we were never charged more than $2 per meal).<br />Suzie’s email: barnessu@Access4Less.net<br />Keara’s email: Keamatt@msn.com<br /><br />Mon 10-11 Pricipal to Chordeleg to Cuenca<br />Up at 7:30, packed leaving behind pens and candy for the daughter as we caught the 8:30 bus to Chordeleg. The ride out of the valley was beautiful, every turn a new view down into the river gorge. We passed small settlements of houses between the road and the dropoff to the valley floor, with women on the porches, always with their bundles of straw weaving Panama hats. We arrived in Chordeleg and decided to survey the town a bit. Found a panadería for a breakfast of yogurt and pan dulce, then walked the shops boardering the plaza. The first shop was a gold jewerly store where we met the very nice owner Carlos who explained that his town has a long history of jewelry craftsmen, especially in gold because of the gold found in these mountains. We didn’t get much further around the plaza before we ran into a free museum, small but interesting with photos and artifacts of the old crafts of the region. What first drew us in was a giant silver earring of intricate fillagree work hanging on a pedistal, the real antique earrings in a case in the museum along with other antique silver jewelry. In the museum we learned that there were ruins of a Cañari settlement, a mile from the plaza on the edge of town. So we went back to our friendly jeweler, left our bags in his store and headed up the street in search of Las Ruinas Llaber. Having to ask directions several times along the way we found the hill, up a narrow path between fields and gardens, passing a pig pen on stilts with three friendly pigs. One lady tending her field waved at us and wanted to know where we had come from. She proudly displayed her knowledge of English and of California. Most Ecuadorians know where Florida is, but not California.<br />We really enjoyed walking what was probably a Cañari trail from that ancient civilization of the 1300’s. It led us to the Ruinas LLaber which at first looked like just another hill, but then we recognized rock walls overgown with grass and wildflowers. Walking around on top of the hill, with a good view of the city of Chordeleg and of another town in the distance, we found mounds of smooth rocks, and some oblong holes lined with stones. Digging around in one of the holes we thought we found a treasure, some ancient cloth, but after pulling on it, it turned out to be a part of a skirt and part of a pair of trousers with a label, made in Indonesia – clearly not a Cañari artifact from the 1300’s. Linda recorded all this on video. Coming down from the hill and rounding to the other side we were just remarking on how interesting it was to be at an unprotected archeological site (how else would we be digging around in the ruins) when we saw a house at the base of the hill built on the foundation of some more ruins. I guess what was good enough for walls in the 1300’s is good enough to build a house on today.<br />We walked back to town for an almuerzo lunch, came across a yarn shop where we bought more yarn (we will be making scarfs forever), then went back to the jewerly store to say goodbye to Carlos and retrieve our luggage. At the bus stop we waited the longest time we have had to wait for a bus on this whole trip – 15 minutes. Back to Cuenca where we caught a city bus to the river. Walked a few extra blocks to the hostel since we took a wrong turn. But we eventurally found La Cafecita, the hostel we had “checked-out” a few days ago and opted for the $4 dorm room to stay within our budget. (Had to make up for all that yarn we bought.) We gave the restaurant a try but beers were $1.50 so we went for a walk instead. Found an Internet place on the corner and sent an email to the guys. Had dinner a block away from the hostel on Jaramillo Street at a Hari Krishna vegetarian Pizza parlor. Try and find one of those in your hometown. We had french fries, a small pizza and 2 teas for $3. Back to the room and to the showers. Good thing the restaurant was dark and noisy because to take a shower you had to wind your way through the tables of customers with your towel over your shoulder, carrying your little shower bag. The restaurant was full of student types, candles on the tables, an interesting collection of new age music playing. We liked the music, good thing since we could clearly hear it in our room until 11:00 at night.<br />Joyeria El Brillante in Chordeleg Carlos Lopez - specializes in gold jewelry. Carlos very friendly and speaks good English address: Juan Bautista Cobos y 24 de Mayo, corner of Parque Central<br />El Cafecito Hostal – Café www.cafecito.net Honorato Vazquez 7-36 y Luis Cordero email: cuenca@cafecito.net<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPN4OlaAKnVPy1coVMMYJkQf9OHXkDqQbR-Y0WMHaoUOThxoY07XB2ZXbbsrxcLkITu8w96IfwvYTg0AKj9DoBfE0fwvrdTaHmhvcFfxwELh__S-xS3-zW_JVPmK_HLXVRAGNUwIN1qZM/s1600-h/Travels+with+Teri+024+%5B320x200%5D.jpg"><img style="MARGIN: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; WIDTH: 267px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 200px; CURSOR: pointer" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5374679265448360034" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPN4OlaAKnVPy1coVMMYJkQf9OHXkDqQbR-Y0WMHaoUOThxoY07XB2ZXbbsrxcLkITu8w96IfwvYTg0AKj9DoBfE0fwvrdTaHmhvcFfxwELh__S-xS3-zW_JVPmK_HLXVRAGNUwIN1qZM/s320/Travels+with+Teri+024+%5B320x200%5D.jpg" /></a><br />Tue 10-12 Cuenca<br />Up at 7:30 and we walked to the tienda for yogurt. After breakfast in our room we ventured out about 8:45 and walked Av Fray Vicente Solano, a wide tree lines boulevard. After a couple of miles we came to the base of the steps leading up to Vista Turi – 450 of them. At the top was a plaza with a grand lookout over the city, a cafeteria and a tourista shop. Huffing and puffing we got there about the same time a bus arrived and wondered why we hadn’t taken the bus. But now that we were into walking we went back down the steps (in half the time) and walked back to Calle Larga, crossing over the picturesque Rio Tomebamba. Good thing Linda was wearing her new knee brace, which worked well. By this time we had worked up an appetite so stopped for a $1.25 almuerzo lunch. The usually good Ecuadorian soup was more like menudo so we didn’t eat much of that but the french fries and rice with tuna and vegetables plate was good. We had gotten to the small restaurant just in time. Just after we got our food the place filled with students and business people, the waiter running from table to table to get everyone served. We can see why they do this almuerzo lunch, no need for a menu and taking individual orders.<br />We escaped the noisy restaurant and walked a block to the Banco Central Archeological Museo. Here we spent 3 ½ hours touring the many rooms on the three floors of this beautiful museum. I think we were the only customers so we felt guilty asking for the senior discount, only paying $1.50 each to have the whole place to ourselves. The first floor was archeological artifacts and an art gallery of photos and paintings of the history of Ecuador. The second floor held a most interesting walk through all the different regions of Ecuador and the history of the culture of each; the northern coast with its black heritage, the dryer southern coast where the Incas reigned, the plains of the cowboys, the Andes with the Cañari and Inca civilizations and the Amazon region with the Indians of the jungle. One of the most interesting parts of the tour was the display and graphic explanation of shrunken heads. The third floor was a library and a large display of the coins of Ecuador that we quickly breezed through since we were museumed out. And outside, behind the museum were Inca ruins to walk around and a bird aviary containing many different kinds of parrots, some toucans and CariCaris.<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQyOilJ0MbMn770_mg_uksHjJ44jUrAr2orOqF_psmhS_1PwEez5WFeLw_cgmI6bH4b60oXTeKog7xDuciK0qViNAamtYrBj9cFcMty5ERO3vFd3x2HVoCO5A2KJq77pI-yCbkb3-sXso/s1600-h/Travels+with+Teri+005+%5B320x200%5D.jpg"><img style="MARGIN: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; WIDTH: 267px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 200px; CURSOR: pointer" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5374679248405507714" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQyOilJ0MbMn770_mg_uksHjJ44jUrAr2orOqF_psmhS_1PwEez5WFeLw_cgmI6bH4b60oXTeKog7xDuciK0qViNAamtYrBj9cFcMty5ERO3vFd3x2HVoCO5A2KJq77pI-yCbkb3-sXso/s320/Travels+with+Teri+005+%5B320x200%5D.jpg" /></a><br />We dragged ourselves back to the hotel but found a Colombian restaurant along the way that inspired us to have an early dinner. We had an arepa and papa rellena, coffee and tea for a total of $4.50. Arepas Mixto is a thick corn and egg tortilla topped with beans, chicken, beef, cheese and veggies. The Papa Rellena was a large baked potato skin filled with a hash of ground beef and potato, coated with a cheese crust. Have no idea how they made it but it was to die for.<br />Back to the hotel for showers and we checked out to leave in the morning. It had been a day of many miles and a bargain day at only $9.50 apiece.<br />Moliendo Café (Colombian food) on Honorato Vazquez 6-24 y Hno Miguel<br /><br />Wed 10-13 Cuenca to Guayaquil via Cajas National Park<br />Up at 7am and had breakfast in our room. Packed and walked up the street to catch the city bus marked “Terminal” to the bus terminal. We got tickets on the Alianza bus line to Guayaquil via the Cajas National Park. This ticket was more expensive than the normal $1-a-mile long-distance bus rate, maybe because of the National Park. The bus was $8 and left at 9am. The ride was well worth it, of different scenery than we have seen in Ecuador. The Cajas is a high barren plane with many little silver lakes that have been formed by glaciers. At 11,000 feet the cloud covered views were mysterious and dramatic; of plunging dropoffs, rivers in gorges far below and waterfalls in the steep hillsides. All too soon we started coming down the mountains into the rain forest, the jungle and then into the flat lands of the plantations of banana, cacao, mango and papaya. We arrived in Guayaquil about 1pm at the bus terminal. Caught the city bus to within four blocks of Pacific Hosteling and walked the rest of the way. Got a room on the front side of the building this time, with a TV that worked (only in Spanish). Went for a walk toward the downtown and got some lunch at Bongo Burger on AV nueve de Octubre. We had hamburgers, french fries and a coke at this old-fashioned soda fountain type place. Talked to the owner who spoke English, California his favorite vacation spot, hence the California look to the restaurant. Walked to the Naval Museo but it was closed. Found the Bank of Pichincha and got more cash to spend at the 1-2-3 store. Went to the 1-2-3 store a few blocks from the hostel on Escobedo and came out in the dark. Walked back to the hostel, stopping to get some yogurt for tomorrow’s breakfast and ice-cream bars.<br />Bongo Burgers on Av nueve de Octubre and AV Chimborazo<br /><br />Thur 10-14 Guayaquil<br />Slept in later than usual, until 7:30. After a yogurt breakfast in the room we walked to the Naval Museo across the street from the malecón. We were the only customers for this free museum of four rooms. Walked to the Catedral Metropolitana where Linda tried to find a home for her hiking shoes that don’t quite fit but couldn’t find anyone around that looked worthy. Went across the street to Parque Bolivar, a small park full of walks and benches, statues, green lawn and iguanas – tons of iguanas of all sizes wandering around but they didn’t need shoes. On the way to find a restaurant Linda spotted a little old lady on the sidewalk begging and gave her the shoes and got blessed. After a lunch of Chinese we walked through the “black market”, the rows and rows of little booths selling electronics, CDs and T-shirts and stuff. At the end we noticed two cops were quietly following us on motorbikes. We wondered why the vendors had quit hassling us. So we quickly left the “black market” and walked to the Crystal Palace at the end of the malecón. Interesting building but there were no exhibits happening. We wandered through the small group of artisan shops, then to the underground mall of the malecón. Stopped at a cofffee shop to revive Linda with a good cup of coffee. I asked for root beer but of course they didn’t have any. There is no root beer south of the US. So I told the proprietor he should be serving root beer floats and explained root beer and drew him pictures of a frosty mug. Watch, by next year he will be a millionaire with my idea. Across the walkway was a hairpiece shop so Linda went in and tried on a “fall” that was a perfect match for her hair, but it felt too heavy on her head. On the way out of the mall we passed the bead shop from our previous visit and we of course went in and came out with a few purchases. We found an Internet Café on Av. Nueve de Octubre and Moreno and sent an email to John saying we would finally return to Bahia tomorrow. We bet the guys are beginning to wonder. Walked back to the malecón to find a bus to Mall del Sol. A nice tall policeman told us to catch number 2. The passengers on the bus told us where to get off; turned out was in front of the airport. The mall was a couple blocks away and across a busy street so a policeman stopped the traffic for us to be able to cross safely. The movies weren’t starting for an hour and a half so we walked the mall, shopping at SuKasa for kitchen stuff. Linda bought a paella pan made in Spain for $20. Found a 99 cent store and bought snack food for the movie. We chose KFC in the food court and had Twisters waiting for showtime. The movie was “Raising Helen” with Kate Hudson and John Corbett, playing a subtle sexy minister. Good movie. A lady we met in line at the 99-cent store advised us to take a taxi back to the hotel instead of the bus so we did.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPLMxSWYHvb8Sfcz9qS3uMRSf3HICXcEMkAoOsnldYaqDi2EeWtounI8qxspHTmhFe79ZMRcGWFK6N8dLnS0TkpS_au4CFcLXYRKc_rHKx3yex5z4_U8yr6ogwuzUs_hyvGfJL4fJQzkU/s1600-h/Travels+with+Teri+013+%5B320x200%5D.jpg"><img style="MARGIN: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; WIDTH: 200px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 200px; CURSOR: pointer" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5374679254438650482" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPLMxSWYHvb8Sfcz9qS3uMRSf3HICXcEMkAoOsnldYaqDi2EeWtounI8qxspHTmhFe79ZMRcGWFK6N8dLnS0TkpS_au4CFcLXYRKc_rHKx3yex5z4_U8yr6ogwuzUs_hyvGfJL4fJQzkU/s320/Travels+with+Teri+013+%5B320x200%5D.jpg" /></a><br />Fri 10-15 Guayaquil back to Bahia<br />Got up early, packed our suitcases but left them in the room and walked downtown. Came across a good restaurant for breakfast, “Tipo Don Rico’s” on Escobado and AV. Nueve de Octubre. Went to the Internet Café to let John know we would try and catch the 9:30 bus for Bahia. There was an email from John letting us know Sunday is voting day, making it a crowded weekend for traveling. So we hightailed it back to the room for our luggage and caught the city bus #111 on Solano, two blocks from the Hostel. Got to the bus terminal at 9:20 to find a long line at the Reina del Camino ticket window. After an hour we got two of the last 8 seats on the 11:30 bus to Bahia. Our next option would have been “the slow bus to China”, the bus that stops at every little town between Guayaquil and Bahia, our favorite being Jipijapa (pronounced ippi-appa). But we sped right though those towns on our direct bus, happy to endure the usual playing of the shoot-em-up movie on the TV. This time it was about a sharp shooter cowboy who was blind no-less, running around the wild west delivering a baby to some lady. We didn’t even need to hear the dialog to follow that movie – good thing since we were in the very back of the bus, a long way from the TV screen. Arrived in Bahia at 4:30 ish.<br />The guys retrieved us from the dinghy dock and later we all went out for a pizza dinner.<br /><br /><input id="gwProxy" type="hidden"><input id="jsProxy" onclick="jsCall();" type="hidden"> <div id="refHTML"></div><input id="gwProxy" type="hidden"><input id="jsProxy" onclick="jsCall();" type="hidden"> <div id="refHTML"></div><input id="gwProxy" type="hidden"><input id="jsProxy" onclick="jsCall();" type="hidden"> <div id="refHTML"></div><input id="gwProxy" type="hidden"><input id="jsProxy" onclick="jsCall();" type="hidden"> <div id="refHTML"></div><input id="gwProxy" type="hidden"><input id="jsProxy" onclick="jsCall();" type="hidden"> <div id="refHTML"></div>About John and Lindahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09804781596879702975noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-919823168408227838.post-31562963036509945702004-06-30T02:16:00.000+12:002009-09-11T12:11:10.931+12:00HAWKEYE HAPPENINGS, June, 2004HAWKEYE HAPPENINGS, June 2004<br /><br />BAHIA DE CARÁQUEZ, ECUADOR.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitl_b8wC1M0xnf2AwXZbwLOK5Kb0riDL61aWNT5Pyc2N6LspLqlUB0QZT3HGTwP_4omh59J63Z2mQFUc3qubLURCtP_nJGoYZbWlLgc9frmkYwBrdgfGl2pYO-O3tlHueVvj_uEzPN70k/s1600-h/Bahia+de+Caraquez+064+%5B320x200%5D.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitl_b8wC1M0xnf2AwXZbwLOK5Kb0riDL61aWNT5Pyc2N6LspLqlUB0QZT3HGTwP_4omh59J63Z2mQFUc3qubLURCtP_nJGoYZbWlLgc9frmkYwBrdgfGl2pYO-O3tlHueVvj_uEzPN70k/s320/Bahia+de+Caraquez+064+%5B320x200%5D.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5373729169044173026" border="0" /></a><br />Latitude 00 degrees 36 min. South, Longitude 080 degrees 25 min. West.<br /><br />On March 26, HAWKEYE checked out of Panama bound for Ecuador. The plan was to sail only about 40 miles to the Perlas Islands, clean the bottom of the boat and wait for a good weather window. Finally, on Sunday, April 4 at 10:40 a.m. we departed Isla Cana with another boat, ÖRNEN. By 1700 hrs (5 p.m.) HAWEKEYE was double reefed in 20 knots of wind doing 7 knots. The winds held and in fact increased with 4 to 6 foot sometimes breaking waves that made it uncomfortable for the next two days as we flew along well reefed. April 6 the wind died, and we had to motor for 1 hr which was needed anyway to charge the batteries. At 4 p.m. that same day we heard from our buddy boat, ÖRNEN that they were heading back to Panama due to problems with their rigging. It seems their shrouds suddenly went slack and one of the chain plates pulled out of the boat! They arrived safely a few days later with major repair work needed.<br /><br />The rhumbline to Ecuador is approximately 223 degrees from the Perlas. There is a restricted island that belongs to Colombia, Isla Malpelo (bad hair?), which must be dodged on the way. HAWKEYE was 20 miles away from the island, and well to the northwest of it, when we heard on the radio: “Vessel 4 miles north of Isla Malpelo, this is a restricted area. Change course immediately!” We checked our charts and GPS to assure ourselves we were not the vessel they were trying to reach. The final transmission we heard was, “If you do not leave this restricted area, we will open fire!” The Colombians don’t mess around with people being where they aren’t supposed to be and we were glad they weren’t talking to us!<br /><br />At 8 a.m. on April 9, we had no wind and John had calculated we had enough fuel to motor all the way to Bahia Caraquez if we had to. We decided to motor for a while hoping the wind would fill in. Suddenly, the engine <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVDp46yZGTKgKppmuPQa4WmjHZXtmL6KnAaH7X3l_GKfbPyvO8F7JZGMvO8ZnzSpVYyXghiy2F4FNShUYGPFY8YvE20HLyZWcp5fG997erELHYEzAeiryxLo9fJ2wiC2_D5ZxEMy6Vbsg/s1600-h/anchorage+2+%5B320x200%5D.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVDp46yZGTKgKppmuPQa4WmjHZXtmL6KnAaH7X3l_GKfbPyvO8F7JZGMvO8ZnzSpVYyXghiy2F4FNShUYGPFY8YvE20HLyZWcp5fG997erELHYEzAeiryxLo9fJ2wiC2_D5ZxEMy6Vbsg/s320/anchorage+2+%5B320x200%5D.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5355792126722815490" border="0" /></a>stopped. John checked everything out and ended up changing the fuel filter that must have gotten clogged due to the rough seas from the previous days. Crisis over. Within a few hours, the wind came up and we sailed under spinnaker with only 86 miles to go. At 5 p.m. that evening, the wind died again and this time when we turned on the engine, there was a heavy vibration. John thought the cause might have been loose zinc on the prop shaft. The vibration got worse over the next hour and by that time, it was dark. We decided it was not good seamanship for John to go into the water in the middle of the ocean in the middle of the night to check it out. The next day he did go in during calm seas and indeed the two zincs on the shaft had vibrated loose and the cone zinc on the propeller had disappeared. No wonder it was so noisy! HAWKEYE ghosted along under a few knots of wind and at 1 a.m. on April 10, we crossed the equator. John was asleep but Linda watched the GPS hit 00 deg. 00.000 min. This was our second time across the equator and so were already “shellbacks”. We had whipped up some margaritas earlier but thought it might be better to wait until we were safely anchored before partaking of alcoholic beverages. The anchorage in the “waiting room” at Bahia Caraquez was reached at 5 p.m. on April 10. Shortly after, we drank those margaritas and got a good night’s sleep before our pilot arrived the next morning (Easter Sunday) and brought us into Bahia. All in all, we had a great sail of 684 miles to Ecuador where we are now on a mooring enjoying life in Bahia.<br />Other boats were behind us and came in the next day. We checked in with the Port Captain and then a few days later, we took a 3 hr bus ride to Manta to check in with Immigration. The bus ride to Manta provided us with our first glimpse of the beautiful Ecuadorian scenery as we went along the bay, up into the mountains and down again into a valley to Manta.<br /><br />The next several weeks were spent getting the boat back into shape after the crossing and finding our way around Bahia. We joined the Bahia Yacht Club so that we could swim in the pool and shower there rather than on the boat. Linda does not do much cooking in Bahia as almuerzo (lunch, which is really the main meal of the day) costs $1. Almuerzo consists of a good sized bowl of some kind of wonderful soup followed by a plate of rice, with fish, chicken, or beef, cucumbers and tomatoes, or plantain (like a banana but not as sweet) and a glass of some kind of fresh fruit juice. It is cheaper to eat ashore rather than buy the groceries and use the propane and water for dishes.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiQRJRaEGK6Yyi8KVbh85vG0NY_h56E221pQcJPwJ1m130Z3Vu02IteF1h-reUaFI94pHavVuuy46QRVaSns4sIe7-QlB-72OPow21QLbI12S7i2up_bTidhJC6xnCzQN3RMRbbVPBX8g/s1600-h/CANOA,+POTTERY+SHARDS+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiQRJRaEGK6Yyi8KVbh85vG0NY_h56E221pQcJPwJ1m130Z3Vu02IteF1h-reUaFI94pHavVuuy46QRVaSns4sIe7-QlB-72OPow21QLbI12S7i2up_bTidhJC6xnCzQN3RMRbbVPBX8g/s320/CANOA,+POTTERY+SHARDS+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5355792145775629186" border="0" /></a><br />With some other cruisers, we went on an overnight trip up the coast about 15 miles to a surf resort area. It was a village of palapa restaurants and small hostels built from bamboo with palm frond roofs and mosquito netting over the beds. As we sat at tables on the sand and watched the sun set, we marveled at the beauty of Ecuador and her friendly people. The next day we walked the beach at low tide and discovered, among the shells, shards of pottery. Later, after visiting the museum in town, we realized these shards were from Pre-Colombian pottery washed down from the mountains during the heavy rains of the last El Niño, presumably from an ancient Inca village. At low tide, the pieces wash up on the beach. Friends have a home there and they have found intact pieces that should be in museums but there is no more room in the museums!<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtZ28GGPp8OFNS5ljre8EDmzfHU6jvdE3LhbRU3yf_FYLLevu1ZRqbo_njhvQlwaEBSYwq64ve63gbNRs5SH4tXZX7QleA-_oVZF3m0YHM34lMsA9hD2hOT7a0illWVh3uibyhT8Smv5w/s1600-h/A+dolphin+experience+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtZ28GGPp8OFNS5ljre8EDmzfHU6jvdE3LhbRU3yf_FYLLevu1ZRqbo_njhvQlwaEBSYwq64ve63gbNRs5SH4tXZX7QleA-_oVZF3m0YHM34lMsA9hD2hOT7a0illWVh3uibyhT8Smv5w/s320/A+dolphin+experience+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5355793698795629906" border="0" /></a>One morning we got a call on the radio that 3 dolphins were on the beach and would the cruisers want to come help the locals get the dolphins back into deeper water. Of course! We headed over to the beach and over the next hour or so, helped keep one dolphin soothed as he rested on the sand. It was necessary to keep the skin moist so we kept pouring buckets of water over him until he was taken in a boat out into deeper water and released. It was a wonderful and unforgettable experience for us to actually touch and be close to a bottle-nosed dolphin.<br /><br />In May, we took a three-week trip inland with some other cruisers (7 of us in all). The first day was an 8-hour bus ride through spectacular country to the capital city of Quito and another 2 hours to Otavalo, famous for it’s Saturday market. There are 3 markets going on at the same time. One is fo<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGjRZ0wVRPRy6Xqo3Y0XalSnMYeWs8XiCqHJlpbIssaRv3OQ0yFDT3_biHIoQEcvS8uYj3rsE0mS3S0SZx9H33LPvhHDbI0-gOos2V9C_RXk8QwR8RQc8R7wpYC4gVFvXyyKFwJmyx3E0/s1600-h/Base+of+Devils+falls+%5B320x200%5D.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGjRZ0wVRPRy6Xqo3Y0XalSnMYeWs8XiCqHJlpbIssaRv3OQ0yFDT3_biHIoQEcvS8uYj3rsE0mS3S0SZx9H33LPvhHDbI0-gOos2V9C_RXk8QwR8RQc8R7wpYC4gVFvXyyKFwJmyx3E0/s320/Base+of+Devils+falls+%5B320x200%5D.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5355794551077280210" border="0" /></a>r the locals where they buy and sell animals, another is for fruits and vegetables and the third is for handicrafts. The handicraft market was the most popular where great bargains could be had. Wool, leather, and woodcrafts abound to the point that all the goods overwhelmed us. Prices were inexpensive but the problem was this was the beginning (day 2) of a three-week trip. We could not even think of purchasing things as we would have to carry them all over Ecuador and we were at an elevation of 8000 feet and did a lot of puffing just walking around. After a few days of acclimation, we decided to take a hike to a waterfall. Actually, we took a taxi to the end of the road and then walked about a mile to get to the waterfall. From there, we decided to climb to the top of the waterfall and through some caves. Everything was just great and we were heading down the path when it started to rain, and rain, and rain. By the time we walked back to town (no taxis around) and to our hotel, we were all soaked to the skin, including our shoes. As we were all traveling light, it took a few days of wearing wet shoes for them to finally dry out.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJO8Bjw6YS5c0_OVU0PVHh79Y2YwoFt1gzkOJKaqLPHGvDqBKqJPkIyFd1By_IsvlFrBEQRGigMTOOQAEPf4h0U8XWyRsRxyKylaQvWlu0dT6Pt60pbQkAz0OckKajSfvqKYtrzy5FKY0/s1600-h/In+the+square+%5B320x200%5D.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJO8Bjw6YS5c0_OVU0PVHh79Y2YwoFt1gzkOJKaqLPHGvDqBKqJPkIyFd1By_IsvlFrBEQRGigMTOOQAEPf4h0U8XWyRsRxyKylaQvWlu0dT6Pt60pbQkAz0OckKajSfvqKYtrzy5FKY0/s320/In+the+square+%5B320x200%5D.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5355795308018317154" border="0" /></a><br />A guide was hired to take us in a van to 3 villages in the mountains. We visited weavers who showed us the process from raw wool to the finished product. Another visit was to the hat makers where they finished off the felt hats much beloved by Ecuadorians (the glue they use in the felt is not waterproof so, when it rains, they wear plastic bags over their hats.) We were able to walk through the small mountain villages and visit people in their homes. There were lots of children and some of them start to work at an early age taking care of babies and, at the age of 12, one young man was already an accomplished weaver.<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEe-1m4mvMvkcQOVLHY2cJF6Cdrdn4_9czGGR7HITpkEaXFd3I3dUbvwe1CMYVvTA1JdZp7h8MQysx23un5XwWKoSAJygOf6uAFqQ_8j3VVc3lwkWEVbhhWc4ZHnU7MFwuCeSQQ7SQDu4/s1600-h/Weaver+at+work+%5B320x200%5D.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEe-1m4mvMvkcQOVLHY2cJF6Cdrdn4_9czGGR7HITpkEaXFd3I3dUbvwe1CMYVvTA1JdZp7h8MQysx23un5XwWKoSAJygOf6uAFqQ_8j3VVc3lwkWEVbhhWc4ZHnU7MFwuCeSQQ7SQDu4/s320/Weaver+at+work+%5B320x200%5D.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5355793714924439282" border="0" /></a><br /><br />From Otavala, we bused further up into the mountains and then finally rode in the back of a pickup truck to a hostel on the edge of a cliff overlooking Lago Cuicocha, a lake in the cone of a volcano. We shared a lunch of the local delicacy, Cuy or “Guinea Pig” as we know it. Quite chewy and tough with head and legs included on the plate. Only the fur and insides were missing! Well, at least we tried it but hope the grandkids don’t find out.<br /><br />After a day of acclimation, we decided to hike the rim of the volcano. At first it was pretty easy; but then we started climbing and then down and then up and down, etc, for 9 ½ miles of which approximately 4 miles was in a downpour. You got the picture, wet shoes, again. It was a beautiful hike with spectacular views and lots of different wild flowers. We got lost several times having to scramble down under trees and in weeds. The highest we got was <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhP-Nt_4OYBBS1_D_QK-1kEx_uaEHC74xRQkpZv1e4H1j5JAbxsA0hTM9Ro_u-Z0os3SO_xIIBoZ3mOufoz2MldxEWJtaHNWgykTBM-UqZ24PfN2sEWFEH9jJ0TkKpMYjlMhlb9aVLUXEA/s1600-h/Finished+product+2+%5B320x200%5D.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhP-Nt_4OYBBS1_D_QK-1kEx_uaEHC74xRQkpZv1e4H1j5JAbxsA0hTM9Ro_u-Z0os3SO_xIIBoZ3mOufoz2MldxEWJtaHNWgykTBM-UqZ24PfN2sEWFEH9jJ0TkKpMYjlMhlb9aVLUXEA/s320/Finished+product+2+%5B320x200%5D.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5355794963503673186" border="0" /></a>10,500 feet and we were exhausted but happy when we finally arrived to the hostel and cups of hot coffee. Next, the ride back down in the back of the pickup truck but this time they put a tarp over the top so we had some protection from the rain although it didn’t matter much as we were soaked anyway. We finally managed to get a hotel with hot water-well, not cold water. Anyway it took quite a while to finally warm up in the little town of Cotacochi.<br /><br />The next day we bussed back to Quito where 2 of our guys were pick pocketed on the train. Lucky for them they had only a few $ taken as everyone was wearing money belts and very little cash in their pockets. Old town Quito was thoroug<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7ioK89oC-v33HDpXXIGyCy422Ijwh-S5XeuauXt2T0HU030jaGASxtuoIzDTyrr5swAaPBXq-WFBq2QcEDjbdZppv7e3ShucFVEuBWbjq363iEzx3eR-ZvZ7JJY0dVLWwF3UESN0ST-I/s1600-h/Families+working+%5B320x200%5D.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7ioK89oC-v33HDpXXIGyCy422Ijwh-S5XeuauXt2T0HU030jaGASxtuoIzDTyrr5swAaPBXq-WFBq2QcEDjbdZppv7e3ShucFVEuBWbjq363iEzx3eR-ZvZ7JJY0dVLWwF3UESN0ST-I/s320/Families+working+%5B320x200%5D.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5355794960008620946" border="0" /></a>hly explored over the next day and we were ready to head to the smaller town of Baños further south in Ecuador and another bus ride through beautiful country. We all brought books to read on the buses but didn’t even open them for fear of missing a beautiful waterfall, snow capped mountains, green jungles, orchids along side the road, boulders in the roads, washed out roads, etc., etc.<br /><br />Baños was beautiful. Waterfalls abound. Some of us hiked up what seemed like a 1000 steps but was more like 500 to a trail overlooking the town. Great views at about 1500 fe<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCoPE4PtpiHh64ZzFvCK6848S8xASDJGPjlzlthnYHvX8M3hQIaEVbH4Ti5iNr5fH6XkfK0uVCSLX1BdZVvKs17X6dIR4Y1xcIwZjAdq4J1dnn_rOz4rISv4FkZDBrywK2dxzhxze1LCk/s1600-h/A+face+with+character+%5B320x200%5D.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCoPE4PtpiHh64ZzFvCK6848S8xASDJGPjlzlthnYHvX8M3hQIaEVbH4Ti5iNr5fH6XkfK0uVCSLX1BdZVvKs17X6dIR4Y1xcIwZjAdq4J1dnn_rOz4rISv4FkZDBrywK2dxzhxze1LCk/s320/A+face+with+character+%5B320x200%5D.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5355794088359950914" border="0" /></a>et above the valley where the river winds through the mountains with waterfalls making it ever expanding. There was pan flute music in the square and good inexpensive restaurants. We had nice rooms for $7 per person with a beautiful garden and room where we could meet for coffee or to play games or watch a video about Ecuador. We visited the local zoo and hot springs where we rested our abused bodies after so much hiking but not for long! The next adventure was mountain biking down a winding road along the river viewing waterfalls and dodging motorized traffic through a tunnel in the mountains. In the tunnel, Nancy from SEA TERN couldn’t see and stopped. Linda was behind her and ran into the wall of the tunnel while Joe from MUSIC, behind her, ran into a ditch. Amazingly no one got hurt and we made it out of the tunnel where the next part of the road went UNDER a waterfall. After we sent the bikes with Nancy and Herman on a truck back to Baños, John, Joe and Linda decided to take a hike to get closer to El Pailon de Diablo (The Devil’s Caldron) where there was a great waterfall and suspension bridge over the river. Naturally it was a down, up, down, up, down, up, kind of hike.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJjjjntjGZmZTJXepOzMInFrmtu1azjO4v6-_KqBtHqTVQ6a050YR8LhJWnl29MDdOkdgt0-reHspE-ny5XH07Kab8uK8Y1TNCzjLfVZb0V7V_bH9w3tUXLzBvASYzAIqTkELeU6kFe9I/s1600-h/At+the+end+of+the+trail+%5B320x200%5D.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJjjjntjGZmZTJXepOzMInFrmtu1azjO4v6-_KqBtHqTVQ6a050YR8LhJWnl29MDdOkdgt0-reHspE-ny5XH07Kab8uK8Y1TNCzjLfVZb0V7V_bH9w3tUXLzBvASYzAIqTkELeU6kFe9I/s320/At+the+end+of+the+trail+%5B320x200%5D.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5355794091137554146" border="0" /></a><br />As we all had different agendas and interests, our group of 7 split up. Nancy and Herman went back to SEA TERN to get ready to leave her for their trip back to the states. Joe and John decided to go to Cuenca, a Spanish colonial town in the south of the country. John reported that the bus ride over the Andes was hair-raising. As they climbed to an altitude of 13,600 feet, the weather became foggy and rainy and the road deteriorated to a narrow two-lane dirt surface unencumbered by any shoulders or guardrails. This did not stop the driver from wheeling his big vehicle around the hairpin bends at reckless speeds, seemingly oblivious to oncoming traffic or the thousand-foot drop-offs at the side.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaQ0YgiIsM4SZXjyoo5KJwaZId1BDP_ZAV8bs8bdQkceemM5uWPpEICGPnrBkmZ02yQeVlWWnTdfEDfCOmAOZxEBvu93PwPjcvyUabNHVnkycQadnXmtZkp2J9lrvmSVdwy8hz6WABLkU/s1600-h/Devils+Pailon+%5B320x200%5D.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 150px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaQ0YgiIsM4SZXjyoo5KJwaZId1BDP_ZAV8bs8bdQkceemM5uWPpEICGPnrBkmZ02yQeVlWWnTdfEDfCOmAOZxEBvu93PwPjcvyUabNHVnkycQadnXmtZkp2J9lrvmSVdwy8hz6WABLkU/s320/Devils+Pailon+%5B320x200%5D.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5373729180792287442" border="0" /></a><br />Cuenca boasts many beautiful old buildings but is also a large, modern city with noisy rush-hour traffic that detracted from the colonial ambiance. John had an interesting encounter in the square with an elderly “gay caballero” who, no doubt encouraged by John’s announcement that he would be visiting San Francisco this summer, abruptly lost interest when John assured him that he preferred women!<br /><br />Linda went to the Amazon jungle with Matt and Judy of ELSEWHERE. The road followed the river where there were more waterfalls than could be count. From volcanos 8000 feet high straight down to the river in the valley the sight was awe-inspiring. We rode on buses through the <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbyXQ5k8noA1Dkj03yMpRlEHQUm0m41ZsZEM686ptX6Tihn7uu1OMdPCOFT9sPqOeRhWZzcKyyCLn23nAEjQWm1KbfkTtQyRXKm2r92x5hxV-WTtQph7LSRH7uBRI8eSiXQdmuNK-9a6Q/s1600-h/start+of+jungle+trip+%5B320x200%5D.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 296px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbyXQ5k8noA1Dkj03yMpRlEHQUm0m41ZsZEM686ptX6Tihn7uu1OMdPCOFT9sPqOeRhWZzcKyyCLn23nAEjQWm1KbfkTtQyRXKm2r92x5hxV-WTtQph7LSRH7uBRI8eSiXQdmuNK-9a6Q/s320/start+of+jungle+trip+%5B320x200%5D.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5355796082619745218" border="0" /></a>farmland and rainforest and up and down mountains and across rivers. On the news there had been talk of lots of rain in this area with roads washed out, landslides, flooding, etc. It was true! At one point, the bridge was washed out and the bus went through the rushing water of the swollen river. Even though our luggage was wrapped in plastic, everything was all wet by the time we arrived at our hostel that night. The gravel road followed the oil pipeline out past the mountains and into the jungle. The few towns we went through existed because of the oil industry. There was a large box of baby chicks on top of the bus and a guy got on the bus with a machete and 2 live roosters. Passengers got on with propane tanks which were left <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWO5pY8Qeq0oU5alwLBsISzZkhTE_Q2D_gvLfrKzUBjiEtdnA26Vfe9g0Fq_OguHIcS2FHbq_yGStRARMccFh8Vr2DwwjwKhbo3zJD-7KC80cdpGpjgL4aQ0m85mqC709gHF_sbKI4ldE/s1600-h/on+the+river+%5B320x200%5D.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 296px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWO5pY8Qeq0oU5alwLBsISzZkhTE_Q2D_gvLfrKzUBjiEtdnA26Vfe9g0Fq_OguHIcS2FHbq_yGStRARMccFh8Vr2DwwjwKhbo3zJD-7KC80cdpGpjgL4aQ0m85mqC709gHF_sbKI4ldE/s320/on+the+river+%5B320x200%5D.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5355795829374911794" border="0" /></a>near the door to roll around, gas cans, buckets of stuff, kids going to school, women and lots of babies (going to the doctors?) At one point there was a deadly Sake snake in the road. We saw lots or orchids growing in the wild and llamas wandering the hills. We arrived in the frontier town of Lago Agua at 7:30 p.m. after a long, but interesting, day.<br /><br />The room Linda had in the hostel was with a shared bath that meant that she shared the bath and shower with all the men there for the oil company. Judy stood guard while Linda showered that evening. Matt and Judy were lucky enough to have a bath in their room but early in the morning someone knocked very loudly on their door and got them up with a start. <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2udHhAONZvSR0ltoxP4CRvvNwUxdwL0vQGGMtVJOv9XLnsYkmVu4bw1P-qwgD1iwCCn-8H3sxxDuEsZG4cCL8vzgy5YNra0yBfeVU2tJCsJFcVx9Dn40GhbUFD6DUzT3P6F59j_V2xtk/s1600-h/cooking+the+bread+%5B320x200%5D.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 296px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2udHhAONZvSR0ltoxP4CRvvNwUxdwL0vQGGMtVJOv9XLnsYkmVu4bw1P-qwgD1iwCCn-8H3sxxDuEsZG4cCL8vzgy5YNra0yBfeVU2tJCsJFcVx9Dn40GhbUFD6DUzT3P6F59j_V2xtk/s320/cooking+the+bread+%5B320x200%5D.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5355794952684680194" border="0" /></a>(Wrong room!)<br /><br />After breakfast we boarded another bus (we had already spend 14 hours on buses the day before) that took us to the river. From there, we went down river through the jungle in a long skinny sort of modified dugout canoe with a 40 hp motor on the back. (Matt, Judy, Linda, the guide, the boat driver, our small backpacks with everything we needed for 5 days (usually just Linda’s camera and some small things fit in this little day pack), and the food we would be eating those 5 days. The boat was about 35 feet long but only about 4 feet wide at the widest part. This is the only means of transportation in the Cuyabeno Reserve of the Amazonas Jungle of Ecuador. We were right on the equator and yet the temperature was quite comfortable.<br /><br />The trip down the river took about 2 ½ hours and we arrived at the camp around 4:30 in the afternoon. Along the way, we saw Red Howler, Equatorian Saki and Monk Saki monkeys. We saw a sloth, ringed neck kingfisher, greater annie, green kingfisher, aniga (a prehistoric looking bird), tropical cormorant, a spectacled owl and once we got in the lagoon, the pink dolphins. The special palm tree, from which the nuts are picked, boiled and the juice reduced to make the poison for the darts of the blowguns was pointed out to us. We also learned what plant is used for the darts and guns, and the cotton like material used to hold the poison. In the area we visited, the blowguns are prohibited as well as the killing of monkeys.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5bz21vq-nnVJpwYOHhAeokAHusvE4dYMrB_q9sYSlvMfcwUAfJUDPe3n4a_AdEySMJUNK6Y4zGF5LOYPnBOm-WPCBFfIXyWbToXLbm3iuO5kovWJkUPnpHNWI7-x6OO7DNq9uCDo6l3Q/s1600-h/jungle+dress+2+%5B320x200%5D.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 135px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5bz21vq-nnVJpwYOHhAeokAHusvE4dYMrB_q9sYSlvMfcwUAfJUDPe3n4a_AdEySMJUNK6Y4zGF5LOYPnBOm-WPCBFfIXyWbToXLbm3iuO5kovWJkUPnpHNWI7-x6OO7DNq9uCDo6l3Q/s320/jungle+dress+2+%5B320x200%5D.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5355795591043338562" border="0" /></a>Our compound was very rustic with 4 cabins for sleeping set in a clearing and a eating covered porch. The dormitory rooms had beds and a bathroom but no doors. It did have a roof but the walls only went up ½ way that left them open for any intruders of every kind. We were not pleased with this arrangement but what could we do? Sleeping under mosquito netting was mandatory. After checking one’s bed thoroughly and crawling in, one would carefully tuck the netting tightly under the mattress. No one was inclined to get up in the middle of the night to use the facilities as this would require finding your flashlight (no electricity), coming out from under the protective mosquito netting (dangerous), checking ones shoes for critters (essential) and progressing to the bathroom checking for critters along the way on the floor, hanging from the rafters, etc. The first day Linda made the mistake of drying her hands on her towel that was hanging up in the bathroom before shaking it out and got a nasty sting on the thumb that itched and swelled and after about 10 days a stinger came out and quit itching.<br /><br />Our first full day in the jungle was spent paddling a dugout canoe large enough for 6 people. It is a very tipsy vessel but we managed to keep it upright and keep our cameras dry although the boat leaked and we had to bail frequently. We saw squirrel monkeys, blue butterflies, orchids, toucans, green and yellow Macaws. Our guide was constantly telling us things about jungle plants and animals. In the swamps, we fished for our dinner. With those big teeth, piranhas are a bit tricky to get off the hook. Our guide has a unique way of killing them. He bites them in the back of the head breaking their backbone. The piranha were good tasting but had some small bones. That evening, we looked over the railing of our eating porch and watched the caimans feed. Caimans are fresh water crocodiles and they have big teeth and their jaws snap shut around whatever they catch to eat. It was hard not to keep thinking of them and the piranha as we swam in the middle of the lagoon. We were told that the caimans and piranhas always stay near shore or in the swamps. One hoped they would never get lost and end up in the middle by accident while we were swimming. The pink dolphins were out there each afternoon but never let us get close to them.<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2foT3gWWJmSY62RW7-IPhXLPQrpevugLYqgl4XqHl8K0RlAE44l3c6gIAB4Xst_SBSccVzHElR7hDDqT3GMhgl0PM13-KcM_UZBTfvhkjugUnJt3MEyOFfQv93oitfahMNPs258WHwPs/s1600-h/Jairo+and+smallest+monkey+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2foT3gWWJmSY62RW7-IPhXLPQrpevugLYqgl4XqHl8K0RlAE44l3c6gIAB4Xst_SBSccVzHElR7hDDqT3GMhgl0PM13-KcM_UZBTfvhkjugUnJt3MEyOFfQv93oitfahMNPs258WHwPs/s320/Jairo+and+smallest+monkey+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5355795317223460066" border="0" /></a><br /><br />One evening after dinner we did a night hike in the jungle behind our accommodations. It was very eerie to see eyes staring like hot coals. The standard jungle attire is knee high rubber boots and rain ponchos and we were glad to have both as we walked down the narrow path ducking branches and leaves. The first critter we saw was a scorpion of commendable size (about 6 inches). Next, we saw scorpion spiders of about the same size. There were many webs of the sociable spiders which reminded us of scenes from “Romancing the Stone” and a few other movies with huge thick spider webs-it isn’t just in the movies! Other spiders were the golden orb and wolf. We also saw a small night monkey or owl monkey. Touching of plants with the hands was a no-no as some plants have poisonous leaves… Those ponchos were kept tightly wrapped around our bodies with just the tip of the flashlight sticking out; that is, until the darn bulb burned out on Linda’s light. She couldn’t see much of where she was stepping and just stayed close to the person in front. Needless to say, she didn’t get much sleep that night as just a few yards away there were a lot of very large spiders.<br /><br />Our guide told us much about plants and animals; there are lots of plants used in medicine such as the sap from the leche guayo tree that is used in producing Milk of Magnesia and the sap from another tree is the source of menthol. When burned, the menthol smell keeps mosquitoes away. From one leaf an orange dye is extracted and from another plant comes purple dye. The guide split a certain palm frond and showed us its’ sharp edge used to make the darts for the blow guns. One tree produced quinine, which is used for malaria as well as gin and tonic. A tea is made from the bark as an anti-malaria drug. Squashed fire ants are used for insecticide and a certain palm nut extract reportedly restores hair. There is a certain tree trunk that can be banged on like a drum and we were instructed to do so only if lost in the jungle. We “dined” on live ants and larvae that tasted like lemons-you have to chew fast or they bite your tongue!<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjL3LXFdc8GwWFvethkG6zlcygctY5_B3thuNJyTTvqw-DVbtdSGSkdxXXVTdBIPSgUGtCw3pc1pnvcwcq_30QD6GP2U2jDjA0rZAc5zxZhUJEJf8jdF0MVMPX8B5EH3Z6SI5P34p0CPiE/s1600-h/milipede+%5B320x200%5D.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 296px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjL3LXFdc8GwWFvethkG6zlcygctY5_B3thuNJyTTvqw-DVbtdSGSkdxXXVTdBIPSgUGtCw3pc1pnvcwcq_30QD6GP2U2jDjA0rZAc5zxZhUJEJf8jdF0MVMPX8B5EH3Z6SI5P34p0CPiE/s320/milipede+%5B320x200%5D.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5355795598478178674" border="0" /></a><br /><br />During a motorboat ride, we came across an anaconda about 6 feet long. The closest Linda hopes to get to an anaconda, let me tell you. There was lots more monkey and bird viewing as well as plant information before we arrived at the village. We were asked to dig up some yucca, which was then pealed, grated, the juice wrung out and the final product fried into flat bread that was part of our lunch. In all, a very interesting experience. These villagers eat mostly yucca, corn and fish. The government forbids hunting monkeys any more, which used to be a part of their diet. On the 2-hour boat ride back to our camp, we stopped to look at some wasp nests. Our guide said to shout “march” all together. We did and the wasps started making a sound like an army marching. During a night boat ride, we saw a 6-foot Fer-de-Lance, which is one of the most poisonous snakes in the world. He was on the move on a tree branch and got irritated with our shining our lights on him and got into strike position. We decided to back off and look for other things and were not disappointed as soon a small rainbow boa was spotted and then a couple of caimans.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNnAMhQHpM8Pj9Qhwurh54rLZlShsdfwmUg4buLw1XCRBTMMPLOt2k3G1DgOhcskpM0NV1ClLyv8dMdMfaDBhWK9SwTgkqoN0PDne8ztx_IUfRf60GsGYpEKODz3K2v1ttYXxfoqUjnGY/s1600-h/kids+swimming+2+%5B320x200%5D.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 135px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNnAMhQHpM8Pj9Qhwurh54rLZlShsdfwmUg4buLw1XCRBTMMPLOt2k3G1DgOhcskpM0NV1ClLyv8dMdMfaDBhWK9SwTgkqoN0PDne8ztx_IUfRf60GsGYpEKODz3K2v1ttYXxfoqUjnGY/s320/kids+swimming+2+%5B320x200%5D.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5355795594500291154" border="0" /></a><br />Matt, Judy and I were the only people from the US staying in the camp. We had a man from Japan, 2 women from Germany and 2 women from Norway. They mostly accommodated us and spoke English, which we were grateful for. By the time our five days were over, we had no dry clothes and were covered with bites from unknown critters but had a wonderful time and will always remember this unique part of the world. I feel very privileged to have visited some of the 603,000 hectares of primary rainforest left as a protected area in Ecuador. I never thought several years ago when we had an abalone feed to raise money for this special place that I would have the privilege to visit.<br /><br />It was another 2 days of riding in boats and on buses, in one instance over the top of a waterfall as the road and bridge has washed out, before we were back to civilization in Quito and then another 8 hour bus ride to Bahia, John and HAWKEYE.<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfYrpW1k9YPkbEMsVAo3ELLSTLiKzkvEpAPRESu60pnHM13MX2y61n56KkNLlUYjP5l_ApEnmd9fdZwIukBAV2zdfu4sX_EFLE0N12qf_6tZC5jl_BEk76ejp4weCCtOZlPZBYgGkeny8/s1600-h/Miss+Ethiopia+%5B320x200%5D.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfYrpW1k9YPkbEMsVAo3ELLSTLiKzkvEpAPRESu60pnHM13MX2y61n56KkNLlUYjP5l_ApEnmd9fdZwIukBAV2zdfu4sX_EFLE0N12qf_6tZC5jl_BEk76ejp4weCCtOZlPZBYgGkeny8/s320/Miss+Ethiopia+%5B320x200%5D.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5373731562710822578" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Things were jumping in our small town of Bahia. The cruisers were planning a surprise birthday party for our Colombian cruising friend, Maye. It started as a potluck for about 20 people and soon it was a pig roast with 50 people including locals. That afternoon, we had a boat parade and the guests of honor were Miss Jamaica and Miss Ethiopia. They, along with their entourage were taken out on cruiser’s boats for a spin around the bay (the single handed sailors knocked themselves out to get the girls on their boats). The surprise party was that evening and we all got to meet Miss Jamaica and Miss Ethiopia and share a good time with them-body guards included.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZq_ttx3MWIycNskRaPQbjtrJjI2qfHi32ZYKmZaTJhtSlYXt0rH01OJ0GKlOov8KDUrNRBau-cvRft-YgMiow6Y6wAtdZX0_tGeVvu5xxGcIWMlLXsDHWy06LABBbRlQt8KOdW9UpSlw/s1600-h/Christine+%26+Bob+2+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZq_ttx3MWIycNskRaPQbjtrJjI2qfHi32ZYKmZaTJhtSlYXt0rH01OJ0GKlOov8KDUrNRBau-cvRft-YgMiow6Y6wAtdZX0_tGeVvu5xxGcIWMlLXsDHWy06LABBbRlQt8KOdW9UpSlw/s320/Christine+%26+Bob+2+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5373729195460020594" border="0" /></a><br />At the present time, we await the arrival of friends, Jane and Dwight for a ten-day visit. We hope to visit some of the islands off the coast of Ecuador for some snorkeling, hiking and exploring.<br /><br />As you may have guessed, we love Ecuador and plan on leaving HAWKEYE here in this safe place when we travel back to the states from mid July to mid September. We plan to do more traveling in South America upon our return. John and Linda de HAWKEYE<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFofkb9I_o5bCUu3-WDrHjTvUif-G6a3Ev3CbiB17VQIWsQtCksvRJ0v9S2WBOoEhakEj2nHdLFcG9FkpzdFokeIg9NsJDOlMjzWEsfldLwJ_IfMDpjRxzjWHzq75TEmX9NwsEn6PuT6Y/s1600-h/39+Bahia,+Maye%27s+BD+%5B320x200%5D.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFofkb9I_o5bCUu3-WDrHjTvUif-G6a3Ev3CbiB17VQIWsQtCksvRJ0v9S2WBOoEhakEj2nHdLFcG9FkpzdFokeIg9NsJDOlMjzWEsfldLwJ_IfMDpjRxzjWHzq75TEmX9NwsEn6PuT6Y/s320/39+Bahia,+Maye%27s+BD+%5B320x200%5D.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5373729186854121890" border="0" /></a><br /><input id="gwProxy" type="hidden"><!--Session data--><input onclick="jsCall();" id="jsProxy" type="hidden"><div id="refHTML"></div><input id="gwProxy" type="hidden"><!--Session data--><input onclick="jsCall();" id="jsProxy" type="hidden"><div id="refHTML"></div><input id="gwProxy" type="hidden"><!--Session data--><input onclick="jsCall();" id="jsProxy" type="hidden"><div id="refHTML"></div><input id="gwProxy" type="hidden"><!--Session data--><input onclick="jsCall();" id="jsProxy" type="hidden"><div id="refHTML"></div><input id="gwProxy" type="hidden"><!--Session data--><input onclick="jsCall();" id="jsProxy" type="hidden"><div id="refHTML"></div><input id="gwProxy" type="hidden"><!--Session data--><input onclick="jsCall();" id="jsProxy" type="hidden"><div id="refHTML"></div><input id="gwProxy" type="hidden"><!--Session data--><input onclick="jsCall();" id="jsProxy" type="hidden"><div id="refHTML"></div><input id="gwProxy" type="hidden"><!--Session data--><input onclick="jsCall();" id="jsProxy" type="hidden"><div id="refHTML"></div>About John and Lindahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09804781596879702975noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-919823168408227838.post-84298115243082225432004-03-31T02:14:00.000+12:002009-09-11T12:11:37.860+12:00HAWKEYE HAPPENINGS, March, 2004HAWKEYE HAPPENINGS, MARCH, 2004<br />Panama City, Republic of Panama.<br /><br />The Perlas Islands were once again our destination on December 7 after spending a few weeks in Panama City provisioning and getting some projects completed. We dropped anchor in the bay at Isla Ampon after a fast sail out to the islands, catching a nice 8 lb Sierra on the way.<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjv1LDXf72qy7REJCYrWl_JyIvFwdOjN1bxZsmkm1TLP0unsq54rOYZjTPIS23h48FLKovB4f4q_lRowvIl5ESRoTbi1C-nbwfXCYrELDDQzUHAlNFYxg_UQMKi3-g55mqf_gRexA6TQtc/s1600-h/Fish+for+dinner+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjv1LDXf72qy7REJCYrWl_JyIvFwdOjN1bxZsmkm1TLP0unsq54rOYZjTPIS23h48FLKovB4f4q_lRowvIl5ESRoTbi1C-nbwfXCYrELDDQzUHAlNFYxg_UQMKi3-g55mqf_gRexA6TQtc/s320/Fish+for+dinner+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5354613281008361538" border="0" /></a><br /><br />While relaxing late one afternoon in the cockpit, we saw a boat sailing into the anchorage. We were familiar with the boat and it’s single-handing owner, having shared several anchorages with him in the past. The entrance to this anchorage is a little tricky if it is your first time in, as there are reefs on both sides. This fellow, however, had been in this particular anchorage several times over the last year and knew the way in. When he didn’t turn at the appropriate time, and continued to head towards the reef, another cruiser got on the radio and called him telling him to turn immediately. No response as the boat continued to sail towards the reef. Our dinghy was ready to go so we jumped in and headed out to see what the problem was. By this time, he was on the reef with sails flapping. Thoughts running through our minds were that he had fallen overboard, had a heart attack or something of that nature. We discussed what we should do upon arrival. As we neared, we saw the guy sitting in his cockpit with the sails still flapping, the motor running, and the stereo blasting. John jumped on board as Linda secured the dinghy. As John approached, the guy got up out of his cockpit to shake John’s hand! Mmmmm, what is the problem here? Problem? There is no problem! Well, you are on the reef and your sails are flapping and your motor is running……<br /><br />By this time, others had arrived. Linda had secured the sails and shut off the stereo. Mr. Euphoric, as he is now referred to, was having a “moment”. We surmised he was high on alcohol and/or drugs. The cruisers managed to help him anchor and we all returned to our own boats. A quick decision was made that we do not want to be in an anchorage with him ever again. A fellow that used to be a good friend of his tried to talk to him regarding his problem and, of course, he denied having any problem. A very sad case as his friend said he was an intelligent and interesting guy in the past. Now, everyone avoids him.<br /><br />Anyway, one evening we decided to watch a DVD on our computer. We set it up in the cockpit where there is usually a nice breeze after dinner and enjoy this treat once in a while. After the movie that evening, Linda was putting the computer away and John was adjusting the anchor light. Linda started hearing strange noises from the cockpit and asked what was going on. John’s voice definitely had a different pitch than normal. By the time Linda got to the cockpit, John said, “Oh, everything is fine, NOW!” Linda, “NOW??? What do you mean? NOW??” “Well, we had a visitor!” “ What kind of visitor??” It turned out that the visitor was a 5 foot long snake that was keeping warm on our solar panel, which is located about 3 feet over our bed, and presumably watching the movie with us. If there had been anywhere to go to get off the boat, Linda would have done it. Unfortunately, it is a remote area, surrounded by uninhabited semi-jungle. For the next few weeks, there was lots of checking of the solar panels during the night and screens were placed over the aft hatch.<br /><br />Christmas Eve was celebrated on HAWKEYE. Linda made 3 pizzas and we managed to feed 8 people in our cockpit. Christmas Day was celebrated on another boat, ORNEN (Danish). It was a potluck of turkey and ham with all the trimmings. It is sometimes amazing what can be done in such small galleys.<br /><br />As our visas were expiring on December 27, we returned to Panama City, applied for new visas, provisioned for 5 boats and headed back to the islands in time for New Year’s Eve. We celebrated the arrival of the New Year a little early at 8 p.m.-well it was midnight somewhere! We cruisers tend to adjust our day around the daylight hours so we are early to bed and early to rise, thus running down the batteries with lights on during the night.<br /><br />Our visas were completed a week later so we opted to fly from Contadora to Panama City, obtain our new visas and fly back the same day. Another boat kept their eye on HAWKEYE while we were gone. The flight is only 30 minutes. We were picked up at the airport by our friend Enrique, taken to emigration, received our new visas, had lunch, did a little grocery shopping and returned that afternoon. It was fun to see from the air the islands that we visited. The price was $44 round trip and we really enjoyed it.<br /><br />Several more weeks were spent exploring the area before we headed back to Balboa to once again provision and anxiously await the arrival of friends Georgie and Jenny. Before they even got to the boat, they met several of our cruising friends at the Balboa Yacht Club where there is a spectacular view of the boats passing under the Bridge of the Americas on their way to or from the canal.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyFrzQRoPxcETXVrKK5Uo7wff6ywqfSrlptk34ktlRaoR4yG1iai2DJi6kEgXKYxvHkCPoCAuFHf4L_WR_zMXUEgv_YT-TW8ntrj4kkEJAndovIld9Qarmzy5tNhDUDet3clpX-8u2slM/s1600-h/So+now+we+all+explore+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyFrzQRoPxcETXVrKK5Uo7wff6ywqfSrlptk34ktlRaoR4yG1iai2DJi6kEgXKYxvHkCPoCAuFHf4L_WR_zMXUEgv_YT-TW8ntrj4kkEJAndovIld9Qarmzy5tNhDUDet3clpX-8u2slM/s320/So+now+we+all+explore+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5354612316793877218" border="0" /></a><br />We packed as much as we possibly could in their week here. Day 2 of their visit we did a tour of the Panama Canal Museum and Panama Viejo Ruinas (old Panama ruins). From there, we went to the Mira Flores Locks to observe a cruise ship transiting. The next morning bright and early we headed out to the Perlas Islands. On the way, we caught a nice Sierra, which we had for dinner that night and a few other meals. We swam to shore as soon as the anchor was down and hiked on the island of Chapera. Georgie and Jenny never miss a “Survivor” show and were eager to see the islands where “Survivor Panama” was filmed. We hiked some of the islands where they filmed and did some snorkeling on the reefs. This enjoyable sport produced scallops for a ceviche which we served that evening when we got together with several other boats for happy hour. Each day was filled with swimming, snorkeling, beach combing, kayaking, and hiking. The clear, starry nights brought out lots of questions about what was what and John enjoyed getting out his astronomy books and explaining things to us all. The ladies had a few hours of panic when their plane from Panama City back to the States had to return to Panama City because of a hydraulic failure. They ended up spending another day in Panama City and finally arrived home a few days late but safe.<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgT9H_MlwVKCqclfRq4VsWZc9qkRJiHfWLY_ZxwlUKsyBuw8HFUHUeL6z0X67EmH2aCTjPCexopHChUkf62yifK87uDcWvfntCEK95Xxr5i3mJ7WcAEXhpyElHF8FGRk5cpZK3Fj7dIyA/s1600-h/Are+we+having+fun+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgT9H_MlwVKCqclfRq4VsWZc9qkRJiHfWLY_ZxwlUKsyBuw8HFUHUeL6z0X67EmH2aCTjPCexopHChUkf62yifK87uDcWvfntCEK95Xxr5i3mJ7WcAEXhpyElHF8FGRk5cpZK3Fj7dIyA/s320/Are+we+having+fun+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5354612309143045314" border="0" /></a><br /><br />It was very quiet on HAWKEYE after the girls left. We sure did miss them and would comment on anything new and different that the girls would have liked to have seen this or done that.<br /><br />At this point, we were starting to think about getting ready to sail to Ecuador. We brought a couple of other cruisers out on the boat with us to practice deploying our sea anchor. Something we always had talked about but had never done. The sea anchor is used in very heavy seas and winds to steady the boat and make it more comfortable for the crew. It is essentially a 15 foot diameter parachute that opens underwater and points the boat into the waves; this makes is much less dangerous for the crew and boat. Unfortunately, there was no wind by the time we got to where we felt the water was deep enough to deploy without any danger of getting it caught on rocks, etc. We had to use the engine to back down enough to fill the chute! All went well even if we didn’t have the rough seas. At least we figured out how all the lines should be run and videoed it all so we can refresh our memories.<br /><br />February 20, we hauled HAWKEYE on the marine railway at Balboa Yacht Club. It was a definite fire drill with much yelling and screaming in Spanish, and lots of body language as the guys tried to center the keel on the cradle. They actually hauled the boat out of the water and back three times. Finally, on the third try, they had the fin keel correctly positioned. Linda was a basket case by the time it was over. Lines were run incorrectly and we had visions of HAWKEYE falling off the thing. But, after we were correctly positioned and they all left, John quietly ran all the lines correctly, one at a time. Four gallons of bottom paint were applied over the next few days and we were back in the water and at anchor again. We can laugh about it now, but at the time it was very stressful. Sleeping on a boat on a rail is quite a feat as the boat is at about a ten-degree angle with the bow up and the stern over the crashing waves at high tide. This is not a sound cruisers like to hear! Once back in the water, we were able to visit downtown Panama City one night of Carnival which was a very colorful and exciting event.<br /><br />Last weekend was another new experience for us. We had wanted to see our life raft inflated, as it was due for an inspection. We decided to do it ourselves as we had heard horror stories of disreputable companies that were supposedly repacking life rafts and either didn’t inspect it at all or took out the life raft and put in an old sail. No one would be the wiser until they tried to inflate a raft that wasn’t there! We took the raft to the Pedro Miguel Yacht Club, which is located alongside the Panama Canal. There, we were able to inflate the raft, check everything over and leave it inflated for the customary 24-hour test period. We again videoed the unpacking so that we would do the packing correctly. The major surprise was the foot pump used to top off the life raft did not work. After having (false?) confidence in this form of insurance in the past, we were glad we did the inspection ourselves – saving ourselves $400 in the process. Now we know our life raft, what it has in it, how it works, etc. We sat in this cozy little craft and commented that we hope we never have to use it.<br /><br />While we were in town, we visited a dermatologist for our annual check up. Linda got an OK but John needed minor surgery to remove a suspicious spot on his cheek. The biopsy came back positive for basal cell carcinoma, definitely not good news. After three visits for surgery, the third biopsy came back negative and we could relax once again. Life on the water in the tropics is very hard on light-complexioned people and a skin check up every year is essential.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmn9IsPWrlLHc_PW8QupbAACe0KsNJ9a95uSEw4l0GeLi4_Tb_DpHIHbtsiZBL4YF8FiP-fcrUVPRzm-QqU2uJ3vjMr3B7bwHDKMuM620Rix0-SfaX2UHr8NNAnKjEZDu8u-P43-1OL68/s1600-h/Just+another+pretty+sunset+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmn9IsPWrlLHc_PW8QupbAACe0KsNJ9a95uSEw4l0GeLi4_Tb_DpHIHbtsiZBL4YF8FiP-fcrUVPRzm-QqU2uJ3vjMr3B7bwHDKMuM620Rix0-SfaX2UHr8NNAnKjEZDu8u-P43-1OL68/s320/Just+another+pretty+sunset+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5354612314934493538" border="0" /></a><br />The days of March have flown by and we were kept busy doing numerous projects. We are now anchored near Isla Contadora waiting for the wind to fill in so we can sail to Ecuador. There are about 10-15 boats in various anchorages waiting for the wind also. We are hoping for fair winds and following seas for this just under 600-mile trip. Linda and John de HAWKEYE.<br /><br /><input id="gwProxy" type="hidden"><!--Session data--><input onclick="jsCall();" id="jsProxy" type="hidden"><div id="refHTML"></div><input id="gwProxy" type="hidden"><!--Session data--><input onclick="jsCall();" id="jsProxy" type="hidden"><div id="refHTML"></div><input id="gwProxy" type="hidden"><!--Session data--><input onclick="jsCall();" id="jsProxy" type="hidden"><div id="refHTML"></div><input id="gwProxy" type="hidden"><!--Session data--><input onclick="jsCall();" id="jsProxy" type="hidden"><div id="refHTML"></div>About John and Lindahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09804781596879702975noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-919823168408227838.post-14657378807875497022003-12-31T01:59:00.000+12:002009-09-11T12:12:00.351+12:00HAWKEYE HAPPENINGS, December, 2003HAWKEYE HAPPENINGS December, 2003<br /><br />After two months in the States and (for John) Europe, we were ready to return to HAWKEYE. During the Rainy Season, we had left her on a mooring at Balboa Yacht Club at the south end of the Panama Canal, very close to the Bridge of the Americas. Linda arrived about 2 p.m. and opened up the boat. We had had a friend look after the boat while we were gone and knew she was safe, but the smell of mildew was overwhelming! (Linda spent the next week cleaning mildew from every surface on the boat and doing laundry.) Lucky John didn’t arrive until 11 p.m. that night. By then, Linda had unpacked her 200 lbs of gear and put it away before John got there with his 200 lbs of gear. All items (new or repaired) had to be inventoried and stored.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGWwLrpSp5zvX2HN-MMiDnsqQOLAVq-OK94dlphXE6K2dEvELif5yMSDJ1wbsWI4jdMkejVKZT8m6x_fRFACdDG9i5EVg4meXVlFbXe1N6pzanGibSlEEJV1YJ7vWT-SYEoqVeth_C4nY/s1600-h/Bridge+of+the+Americas+from+Balboa+haulout+%5B320x200%5D+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGWwLrpSp5zvX2HN-MMiDnsqQOLAVq-OK94dlphXE6K2dEvELif5yMSDJ1wbsWI4jdMkejVKZT8m6x_fRFACdDG9i5EVg4meXVlFbXe1N6pzanGibSlEEJV1YJ7vWT-SYEoqVeth_C4nY/s320/Bridge+of+the+Americas+from+Balboa+haulout+%5B320x200%5D+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5373673317967129874" border="0" /></a><br />The next day, and for the next 17 days, John worked on replacing the pump and hoses on the head, installing a new alternator regulator, and obtaining our new cruising permit. He also rewired the batteries and the main electrical panel (with help from a cruising electrical specialist). He cleaned all the barnacles off the propeller and tried to remove some of the grass skirt along our water line. During this time we were anxiously awaiting the arrival of our new Aquapro dinghy from New Zealand. We finally got word that it would not arrive until November 30 as it had been shipped to Panama via Hamburg, Germany. Our new dinghy was making a circumnavigation without us!<br /><br />On October 18, John’s birthday, we headed for the Perlas Islands with the hope that the old dinghy that John has patched and patched would hold together until the new one would arrive. We motor-sailed the 40 miles to the Isla Ampon anchorage. It took us 10 ½ hours. Her grass skirt dragging and lots of barnacles slowed poor HAWKEYE down. John proceeded to remove this excess over the next few days. He had to do most of it alone as Linda had a double ear infection and could not get her ears wet. After 3 months in the canal estuary, the hull was covered with a thick layer of slime and many barnacles. A putty knife was needed to clean it off and, when we got out, we were both covered in tiny shrimp and baby crabs! They were living in the slime and simply transferred to our bods when we destroyed their habitat. Pretty funny, actually. We have since heard that because of the conditions of the water in the canal and ocean mixing, Balboa is one of the worst places in the world for bottom fouling. Indeed, most of the bottom paint we had so carefully applied last January, was all sloughed off at the waterline!<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2qAgEDJ_ACwKC3y5EqsTYdCFclH2uTsYXQa56cqe8YBji8xXMaIrp6KVyllLzq8rRxKdtrPHlmgffw-OTbGwJXlMvw4ArilfdAHmEhBFBFu0tkiijVvN2Be78FHWMGdIsY1EP2bWC2Vs/s1600-h/BOOBIE+ON+BOARD.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2qAgEDJ_ACwKC3y5EqsTYdCFclH2uTsYXQa56cqe8YBji8xXMaIrp6KVyllLzq8rRxKdtrPHlmgffw-OTbGwJXlMvw4ArilfdAHmEhBFBFu0tkiijVvN2Be78FHWMGdIsY1EP2bWC2Vs/s320/BOOBIE+ON+BOARD.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5352751332027943874" border="0" /></a><br />After a few days, we upped our anchor and headed to Espiritu Santo, another anchorage that we really like. HAWKEYE kicked up her heels and sailed well with her bottom clean and her new 135 jib. We tested the new sail and are very pleased with its fit and performance. Linda was able to sell her old inflatable kayak to another cruiser that was so happy to be able to paddle around and enjoy the scenery. John was glad to have only one kayak on the boat again!<br /><br />We explored the area, fished and collected scallops. One day we decided to explore an adjacent bay and found a river to investigate. The scenery was very beautiful and no one around. We saw lots of birds and lots of different foliage. John was telling some people on the net the next morning and one of the guys said, “Did you see any snakes?” That is an area of LOTS of snakes-lots of poisonous snakes! Crocks, too. Wonderful. We were very lucky that we did not have any encounters of the unpleasant kind. Had Linda known that this was a snake-infested area, she certainly would not have gone on the trip. While at Espiritu Santo, we were experiencing large tide changes up to 18 feet between the high and the low. We had to be very careful where we anchored as we did not want to run aground. During these high tides, lots of trees and debris is set free and so there is the danger of ramming something large while sailing or being rammed by something in the fast moving currents caused by the tidal changes even in the anchorages.<br /><br />Heading back to the mainland, we decided to spend a night in Conchadora. This island has a small landing strip and as we dropped the hook, there was the continuous sound of planes landing and taking off. There was another boat in the anchorage and they came by to say, “hello”. They had gone to shore to buy eggs at a little tienda and said all the planes were bringing the people to film another “Survivor Panama”. Apparently, it was such a hit that they are doing another series. Since then, we have heard that a lot of anchorages have been closed due to filming. John’s comment to this is, “They are closing the anchorages to the people living the adventure so they can fake adventure for the couch potatoes!” He is very indignant over this turn of events.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0YowtQ3QFoRJXzTzonx_Clwz4YgUcIvWFdJvOpsvIaPXsUnItmX81yh7T4WwfRu9C3DitKA8vItnuSs57F1nNVDNo3DvWVaIMcP_jkRq63Nv4-ipv35k3rXsp9zVqY0CERIc84h5eJSs/s1600-h/IGUANA+ON+BOARD+%5B320x200%5D.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0YowtQ3QFoRJXzTzonx_Clwz4YgUcIvWFdJvOpsvIaPXsUnItmX81yh7T4WwfRu9C3DitKA8vItnuSs57F1nNVDNo3DvWVaIMcP_jkRq63Nv4-ipv35k3rXsp9zVqY0CERIc84h5eJSs/s320/IGUANA+ON+BOARD+%5B320x200%5D.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5373673336422104850" border="0" /></a><br />We have been anchored in the Flaminco anchorage off the Panama City front since Nov 1. It has a beautiful view of the city and the Bridge of the Americas that is lit up at night with white and green lights.<br /><br />Panama celebrated their 100th year of independence from Colombia on Nov 3. We decided to be brave and venture into town that evening to see some of the festivities. Dave Woodard, of LA VIE DANSANTE joined us. It was quite an experience seeing all the families walking the malecon listening to the music at different places along the way and sampling the B-B-Q food and drinks. Everything was very reasonably priced. Beers were 50 cents US! At no time did we feel uncomfortable other than the press of bodies. There were no gangs running around and everyone was very orderly but having a good time. Kids had glow in the dark necklaces, bracelets, hair ties, and toys. There were lots of kids asleep on their parents shoulders and it was common to see a stroller being carried high above heads by the father as the mother carried the child. It was too crowded to push a stroller around. There were fireworks every night for 4 evenings with some really spectacular displays.<br /><br />One afternoon we were on the boat and a big squall came through. There was a boat a short distance from us that started to drag anchor. The owners were not aboard. John and 5 other guys jumped in dinghys and headed over to the boat that was closing in on the rocks of the causeway. It was gusting to 30 knots and there were 4-5 foot swells. The guys managed to get on the boat, find the key, put on the steering wheel, up the anchor and move it out to safe water and re-anchor. It was quite nerve wracking for about 1 hour until they had everything under control. Needless to say, the people were very thankful when they found out what had happened. The next day, a batch of cookies and a thank you note was received by each of the rescue workers. This is a fear we all have and shows how close the cruising community is that they do not think twice about leaving their own boats to help save another.<br /><br />One evening we had gone to dinner with some other cruisers and were returning to HAWKEYE in the dark when we were approached by a lancha (about a 23 foot open boat) with no lights on it. They were equipped with two 100 hp engines and there were 5 of them with guns. They asked us to stop. Linda asked if they were the NAVY and they said no the police. We went over to their boat and they asked us what we were doing in the area. We told them we were going to our boat. They said it was a prohibited area and that we had to leave. We finally convinced them that we lived on our boat and it was necessary for us to go home. They followed us to HAWKEYE, watched us get aboard and then they left. The next morning, all the boats in the anchorage were boarded and told to leave. Everyone told them they had something broken on their boat and that it would be dangerous for to leave with a “broken boat”. They said to leave as soon as we could. There were about 16 boats in the anchorage at the time and we had a meeting on one of the trimarans to discuss what to do. We all decided we would stay until boarded again and would try to find out what was going on. Nothing ever came of it.<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRrMclqeriZjTmukfJ5yfYvtxFKCT98JnTw4x_35BwF6LcDMPUSWWLG72CeEMdcBT79d_xywdD44PIw89B88VMKVnCHMSzMfjHqg8iCXKWNuyNvdigh0ejXOC60u28TiKHN8Mrf0mY-BQ/s1600-h/George+%5B320x200%5D.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRrMclqeriZjTmukfJ5yfYvtxFKCT98JnTw4x_35BwF6LcDMPUSWWLG72CeEMdcBT79d_xywdD44PIw89B88VMKVnCHMSzMfjHqg8iCXKWNuyNvdigh0ejXOC60u28TiKHN8Mrf0mY-BQ/s320/George+%5B320x200%5D.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5354238611756711170" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Thanksgiving was celebrated with about 30 other cruisers and some of the locals that work in the area. We cooked two turkeys and a ham and everyone brought side dishes and deserts. It was a wonderful day with the mixing of two cultures. Linda enjoyed cooking in the kitchen with a local chef and we got to meet several other cruisers at the same time.<br /><br />We hope you had a safe and joyous holiday season and wish you the best in the coming year. Linda and John de HAWKEYE<br /><br />FROM JK<br /><br />Nov 3rd was Panama's 100th anniversary of becoming an independent Republic and boy! did they celebrate! 100 years ago, the Province of Panama declared its independence from Colombia. The government said "oh no you don't" and sent ships and marines to quell the revolt, but were prevented by good old Uncle Sam in the form of Teddy Roosevelt and the US Navy. So the Republic of Panama was born, and the US got to build, and own, the canal that the French started but were unable to complete (20,000 people died in the process mainly from malaria and yellow fever) - and which was eventually transferred to Panama by President Jimmy Carter.<br /><br />Four days of marching bands, processions, music, food and fireworks - and no work. Cars and buildings everywhere were festooned with the Panamanian flag; a rectangle divided into four quarters - white upper left and lower right, with a blue and red star, respectively, and red upper right and blue lower left, very colorful. We watched the fireworks from the boat with a great view of the City waterfront and an impressive array of high-rise buildings. The fireworks the first night were fired off simultaneously from three different locations, quite splendid. The last night, we braved the crowds and headed for the music concerts on Balboa Avenue, along the waterfront. The first stand was good solid, high-decibel reggae-rock, with cold beer $0.50 per can. We then tried to get to the main attraction, a hot local group, but so did a million other people and we gave up and retreated to a good pizza place - and watched the show on TV.<br /><br />Much excitement in the anchorage the other day. A big black squall formed over Panama City and headed our way. It was preceded by a blast of wind (30 knots) followed by torrential rain, thunder and lightning. The rain blotted out everything and we put out all of our buckets to fill the tanks. Then someone noticed that an unoccupied boat was dragging its anchor and heading for the rocky breakwater! We quickly rounded up 6 people in 3 dinghies and boarded the wayward boat, which was now dangerously close to the rocks. John went to start the engine while others started raising the anchor. Horrors! No key!! We wasted 10 valuable minutes searching the cabin before we found the key and got the diesel started. Wait a minute, there's no steering wheel! The owners had taken it off and stowed it out of the way. Finally, with the steering wheel back in it's proper place, we got the boat moving away from the rocks and reset the anchor, about where they were before. The squall passed and we all returned to our boats soaked to the skin but happy that we were able to save the boat. At least, it was warm rain. Later, we noticed the owners were back on board and called them on the radio. Did you notice anything unusual? we asked, meaning the steering wheel. “Well, no”, they said, “we were so worried about the boat and so thankful that it was here just were we had left it”! “Wait a minute, how did the steering wheel get here? Who did that? Why is the key in the ignition switch? Oh, my God, what happened here?” So, the whole story came out, much to the amusement of the fleet and the owners' chagrin and great relief. Later, Margy brought freshly baked cookies by way of thanks to all of the boats involved in the rescue. They have since ordered a bigger anchor.<br /><br />Other excitement recently included an incident that has to be every cruiser’s worst nightmare. The young couple aboard the Catalina 27 Morningwood were sound asleep at their mooring at Balboa yacht Club. Unknown to them, the mooring lines had slipped from their cleats, and the little boat started drifting with the current – out into mid channel of the Panama Canal! The freighter, outbound at eight knots, probably never saw them. Even after they hit Morningwood, the crew may not have noticed that the small sailboat bobbing in their wake no longer had a mast or rigging. Incredibly, no one was hurt, and the hull, although damaged, remained afloat. The owners were quick to admit that they were at fault; however, with no insurance, the boat was a total loss and they plan to sell whatever they can salvage. After that, they will return to the USA and try to start their cruising dream over again.<br /><br />You may have seen a TV "Reality" series called Survivor Panama. It was filmed right here in the Pearl Islands, about 40 miles from Panama City, out in the Gulf of Panama. They are beautiful islands and one of our favorite cruising grounds. Well, so popular is this phony show (there is a actually a large village, complete with hotel, about a mile and a half from the "wilderness" beach) that they have returned to film more episodes. What is worse, the Panamanian Navy has closed some of the best anchorages to the visiting boats - we can't have sailboats mucking up the view of a desolate seascape, can we? So, we have the ludicrous, almost laughable, situation of a phony "survival" show being produced so that the couch-potatos of the U.S. of A. can vicariously enjoy a "wilderness experience" on a real "desert island" without getting off their butts or exposing themselves to the elements while actual people (ie, not actors, phonies or other hangers-on), who have sailed thousands of miles, through fair winds and foul, to enjoy a true wilderness experience, are ordered to keep off. It’s a strange world.<br /><br /><br /><br /><input id="gwProxy" type="hidden"><!--Session data--><input onclick="jsCall();" id="jsProxy" type="hidden"><div id="refHTML"></div><input id="gwProxy" type="hidden"><!--Session data--><input onclick="jsCall();" id="jsProxy" type="hidden"><div id="refHTML"></div><input id="gwProxy" type="hidden"><!--Session data--><input onclick="jsCall();" id="jsProxy" type="hidden"><div id="refHTML"></div><input id="gwProxy" type="hidden"><!--Session data--><input onclick="jsCall();" id="jsProxy" type="hidden"><div id="refHTML"></div><input id="gwProxy" type="hidden"><!--Session data--><input onclick="jsCall();" id="jsProxy" type="hidden"><div id="refHTML"></div><input id="gwProxy" type="hidden"><!--Session data--><input onclick="jsCall();" id="jsProxy" type="hidden"><div id="refHTML"></div><input id="gwProxy" type="hidden"><!--Session data--><input onclick="jsCall();" id="jsProxy" type="hidden"><div id="refHTML"></div><input id="gwProxy" type="hidden"><!--Session data--><input onclick="jsCall();" id="jsProxy" type="hidden"><div id="refHTML"></div><input id="gwProxy" type="hidden"><!--Session data--><input onclick="jsCall();" id="jsProxy" type="hidden"><div id="refHTML"></div><input id="gwProxy" type="hidden"><!--Session data--><input onclick="jsCall();" id="jsProxy" type="hidden"><div id="refHTML"></div><input id="gwProxy" type="hidden"><!--Session data--><input onclick="jsCall();" id="jsProxy" type="hidden"><div id="refHTML"></div><input id="gwProxy" type="hidden"><!--Session data--><input onclick="jsCall();" id="jsProxy" type="hidden"><div id="refHTML"></div><input id="gwProxy" type="hidden"><!--Session data--><input onclick="jsCall();" id="jsProxy" type="hidden"><div id="refHTML"></div><input id="gwProxy" type="hidden"><!--Session data--><input onclick="jsCall();" id="jsProxy" type="hidden"><div id="refHTML"></div>About John and Lindahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09804781596879702975noreply@blogger.com0